How to get CDI issue resolved?

[austexjg]

For the people that have had their CDIs replaced due to a mis-reading on the tach - there is about a 1,000 rpm difference when the CDI heats up - how did you get the dealership to agree that there is a problem and fix it?

One of the local dealers said that there is no service bulletin or recall - so they don't believe me that the tach reads different at the same speed. I get the usual run around - "it is normal" - "variables make a difference"...

I am not crazy - my CDI has an issue - when it was cold outside, no difference in tach reading - now the issue is back with the warmer weather.

Maybe the GTPP is a waste of money if the dealer relies on others to issue a bulletin, to determine if the problem is under warranty.

[Soujyu]

Originally Posted by austexjg

One of the local dealers said that there is no service bulletin or recall - so they don't believe me that the tach reads different at the same speed. I get the usual run around - "it is normal" - "variables make a difference"...

Just as an off-topic, if you're talking about the dealer that I'm thinking of, I would expect that kind of response....

[austexjg]

I've talked to both in town - IH35 and 290 (west) - got about the same from both.

[Soujyu]

How about the dealership up in Georgetown?

On a side note, what day did you notice the CDI going bonkers? I'm trying to see if mine has gone bonkers as well.

[austexjg]

I started paying attention after reading about the issue here..

In October and November, I first noticed that my RPMs went from about 7100 at 60 mph to 8500 - 8900 at 60 mph at the end of the ride. Over the winter, I rode a few times and the RPMs seem to stay consistent. Now that the weather has warmed, I noticed the fluctuation again. The gauge also has a slight bounce - but that could be normal.

They want me to drop the bike off so they can try to recreate the malfunction by riding it, let it sit around idling to get hot and then take it for another ride.

[Snake]

The way to resolve this and get a service bulletin or recall to be issued if for everyone that has had issues with the CDI to write to the Kawasaki Headquarters in California. If enough people write in then they will have to investigate the issue.

[littledog]

My tachometer reading is definitely "temperature dependent". I described how in an earlier post. The other thread I guess. Thing is, I see no degrade in performance, either "seat of the pants" or (carefully) measured fuel economy.

A cheap bike has a cheap tach. But it runs great just the same.

I'd like it fixed yea, but I'd rather have a not quite right tachometer than have those "special" people at the dealership touching my bike.

[Banzai]

Originally Posted by Snake

The way to resolve this and get a service bulletin or recall to be issued if for everyone that has had issues with the CDI to write to the Kawasaki Headquarters in California. If enough people write in then they will have to investigate the issue.

We've been writing and doing warranty work since at least early 2009, still nothing.

The problem is, most people will never notice it, even if they have the issue. In any case, NTSB tracks warranty repairs through mandatory reporting. If it hasn't reached their threshold, there's going to be NO incentive for Kawi to even look at the problem.

Seen what's happening to Toyota lately? Do you really think that EVERY vehicle manufacturer that sells things in America hasn't gone through their "Dirty little secret" file already and quietly addressed ANYTHING that might cause a problem?

Yeah, so I'm thinking that Kawi can show, statistically and substantively, that there is no problem, and that if there is, it doesn't reach the criteria of a "Safety Recall".

Please don't take that to mean that I don't think that there's a problem, as I clearly documented in the other threads on this issue everything that I went through to get mine fixed. As of when I traded the bike, it remained fixed.

[Snake]

Originally Posted by Banzai

We've been writing and doing warranty work since at least early 2009, still nothing.

The problem is, most people will never notice it, even if they have the issue. In any case, NTSB tracks warranty repairs through mandatory reporting. If it hasn't reached their threshold, there's going to be NO incentive for Kawi to even look at the problem.

Seen what's happening to Toyota lately? Do you really think that EVERY vehicle manufacturer that sells things in America hasn't gone through their "Dirty little secret" file already and quietly addressed ANYTHING that might cause a problem?

Yeah, so I'm thinking that Kawi can show, statistically and substantively, that there is no problem, and that if there is, it doesn't reach the criteria of a "Safety Recall".

Please don't take that to mean that I don't think that there's a problem, as I clearly documented in the other threads on this issue everything that I went through to get mine fixed. As of when I traded the bike, it remained fixed.

I thought the Japanese manufacturers were supposed to be all about quality. I guess I was wrong.

[Rayme]

If the dealers doesn't want to help you, takes matter in your own hands. You can buy a new one, relocate the existing one or just do a pre-gen swap like some did on here.

[Snake]

Originally Posted by Rayme

If the dealers doesn't want to help you, takes matter in your own hands. You can buy a new one, relocate the existing one or just do a pre-gen swap like some did on here.

Yes but the point with this thread is that the manufacturer should resolve this problem.

[SteveL]

I have read and contributed to the threads on CDI rev counter problem.
If the bike is running well and the only symptom you have is that the rev counter varies with temperature then it is the rev counter that is faulty. A rev counter is only a volt meter with an integrator in front of it; the integrator takes the pulse train from the CDI and converts it into a DC voltage which is directly proportional to the rpm. Any change of value of the components in the integrator with temperature will show up as a drift in the reading. When the CDI is faulty i.e. the insulation of the coil is baking down and high voltage from the secondary is appearing on the primary, the rev counter jumps even going to full scale, at the same time the motor is running rough and loosing power. From what you say I suspect that the rev counter is at fault not the CDI you could try heating the rev counter up with a hot air gun while stationary and see what the result is.

Steve

[Ramen]

I have the same problem as well. Doesn't really bother me enough to take it to the dealership to fix. Quite frankly, unless it's something catostrophic, I'd rather not deal with those guys.

However, I did find that switching the front sprocket from 14T to 15T lowered the revs enough that it reads like it should if a 14T was installed.

[Davidb1986]

My 09 reads the same hot or cold. I haven't had any issues at all.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Snake

The way to resolve this and get a service bulletin or recall to be issued if for everyone that has had issues with the CDI to write to the Kawasaki Headquarters in California. If enough people write in then they will have to investigate the issue.

I wish everyone would do this because my bike is out of warranty and a recall is the only way I can get it covered.

Originally Posted by littledog

My tachometer reading is definitely "temperature dependent". I described how in an earlier post. The other thread I guess. Thing is, I see no degrade in performance, either "seat of the pants" or (carefully) measured fuel economy.

A cheap bike has a cheap tach. But it runs great just the same.

I'd like it fixed yea, but I'd rather have a not quite right tachometer than have those "special" people at the dealership touching my bike.

I've heard that it somehow affect fuel economy too.

[Joe83420]

I've just bought the 250r 2010 model 1 month ago and I've got the same issue. Can I cancel the contract and return the bike to the dealer? Is there any law that is protecting me on this?

Thanks,

[Alex]

Not sure what the laws are in Ontario, but in the US, nope. The sale is final the minute you walk out of the dealership. From that point on, it's a used bike and will need to be dealt with by the factory as a warranty issue. There are lemon laws in some states in the US that give buyers additional rights if the company tries to fix a problem a certain number of times unsuccessfully, or if the vehicle is off the road for a certain period of time due to the issue. But it varies by state, and often differs from cars to other vehicles.

[LNasty]

I think I am having the CDI issue, just bought my 2012 in october and my rpm readings are out of wack. I have the factory warranty and the 3 yr extended, will they fix this issue for me? is it a known issue to kawasaki dealers?

[alex.s]

how to fix CDI issue: buy ninja 300.

[Racer x]

I have not heard of the CDI issue after 2009. What is yours doing?

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by LNasty

I think I am having the CDI issue, just bought my 2012 in october and my rpm readings are out of wack. I have the factory warranty and the 3 yr extended, will they fix this issue for me? is it a known issue to kawasaki dealers?

I had my IC Igniter (ignition/timing control ) replaced because it was not working properly. In high outside temps (80 degrees or above) the tachometer would be off any where between 200-500 rpms. That was at idle and throughout the range of gears and speeds. This would only happen after extended riding time in the heat. It ran fine when it was cooler.

My bike is a 2009 that had the same problem. The reason I noticed it was because when I changed my gearing (15/42) it made rpm and speed readings almost match, (for example; 5000 rpm@ approx 50 mph, 6000 rpm@ approx 60mph) which was normal in cool conditions. When the IC Ignitor malfunctioned the readings were off.

So now my IC Ignitor along with the tach have been replaced. With the new one there was an immediate response in pick up and power throughout the range of gears that was not there before.

My bike is a 2009 that had the same problem. The reason I noticed it was because when I changed my gearing (15/42) it made rpm and speed readings almost match, (for example; 1200- approx 1350 rpm @ idle, 5000 rpm@ approx 50 mph, 6000 rpm@ approx 60mph) which was normal in cool conditions. When the IC Ignitor malfunctioned the readings were off.

I recommend letting Kawasaki fix it under warranty. There is a possibility that your dealer's service dept will be totally clueless about this issue. However someone at Kawasaki has heard of these same complaints and warranty repairs for this exact issue. Don't let them B.S. you about, they couldn't find anything. They don't get paid for warranty work so their troubleshooting the issue probably won't turn up anything if they are a crappy dealer. Let them know the rpms are reading too high and you need either the tach or IC Ignitor replaced.


Keep an eye out on your speed and rpm's, that will be your gauge. You can also show them a chart (see attachment) of what the gear, rpm and mph should be.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Racer x

I have not heard of the CDI issue after 2009. What is yours doing?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=99501

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

I had my IC Igniter (ignition/timing control ) replaced because it was not working properly. In high outside temps (80 degrees or above) the tachometer would be off any where between 200-500 rpms. That was at idle and throughout the range of gears and speeds. This would only happen after extended riding time in the heat. It ran fine when it was cooler.

My bike is a 2009 that had the same problem. The reason I noticed it was because when I changed my gearing (15/42) it made rpm and speed readings almost match, (for example; 5000 rpm@ approx 50 mph, 6000 rpm@ approx 60mph) which was normal in cool conditions. When the IC Ignitor malfunctioned the readings were off.

So now my IC Ignitor along with the tach have been replaced. With the new one there was an immediate response in pick up and power throughout the range of gears that was not there before.

My bike is a 2009 that had the same problem. The reason I noticed it was because when I changed my gearing (15/42) it made rpm and speed readings almost match, (for example; 1200- approx 1350 rpm @ idle, 5000 rpm@ approx 50 mph, 6000 rpm@ approx 60mph) which was normal in cool conditions. When the IC Ignitor malfunctioned the readings were off.

I recommend letting Kawasaki fix it under warranty. There is a possibility that your dealer's service dept will be totally clueless about this issue. However someone at Kawasaki has heard of these same complaints and warranty repairs for this exact issue. Don't let them B.S. you about, they couldn't find anything. They don't get paid for warranty work so their troubleshooting the issue probably won't turn up anything if they are a crappy dealer. Let them know the rpms are reading too high and you need either the tach or IC Ignitor replaced.


Keep an eye out on your speed and rpm's, that will be your gauge. You can also show them a chart (see attachment) of what the gear, rpm and mph should be.

I took bike in to Kawasaki, they said that the bike is supposed to be at 9000 rpm's at 60 mph. bull ****. Not sure what to do now, don't have 300 buck to drop on new igniter. I'm pretty pisses with Kawasaki now, should have bought a Honda

[n4mwd]

I didn't read through all the posts, but in case nobody mentioned it, the tach runs off the #1 coil. If its reading wrong, then the tach is bad and not the CDI. If the CDI was bad, the engine would be running goofy or not at all.

See here for wiring diagram.

Replacing the CDI will not change the way the tach reads.

[Alex]

That has been the experience of some members who have had their CDI replaced. The tach reads high. First attempt at fix is usually replacing the tach. If it still reads high, then the CDI gets swapped out. For some, that fixes the tach, as well as some of the other potential symptoms (rough running, poor fuel economy).

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by LNasty

I took bike in to Kawasaki, they said that the bike is supposed to be at 9000 rpm's at 60 mph. bull ****. Not sure what to do now, don't have 300 buck to drop on new igniter. I'm pretty pisses with Kawasaki now, should have bought a Honda

If the bike is running fine, I wouldn't sweat it. I'd still take it over the Honda.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by LNasty

I took bike in to Kawasaki, they said that the bike is supposed to be at 9000 rpm's at 60 mph. bull ****. Not sure what to do now, don't have 300 buck to drop on new igniter. I'm pretty pisses with Kawasaki now, should have bought a Honda

Did you show them the rpm chart that shows 9k is not 60mph? You need to take it to another dealer and tell them your tachometer is reading off, sometimes there is a delay in the reading and it bounces wildly and it needs replacing. Under warranty they have to replace whatever the problem is. Demand it. If you don't they won't fix it and you'll be stuck with a broken bike eventually. More than likely it will happen after the warranty is up.

You may want to try calling or emailing the warranty dept directly and let them know in detail what your problem is and that the dealer told you it was not a problem. Somebody at Kawasaki knows that 9k rpm in 6th is @ 60mph is incorrect. Other than that, I don't know what else to tell you.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

If the bike is running fine, I wouldn't sweat it. I'd still take it over the Honda.

I'm sure he's joking. Even a barely running Ninja will smoke a CBR250R. I think their top speed downhill with a tailwind is only like 80mph or so. I know a guy who has one and he says he wont go over 60 with it - too slow for the interstate.

I agree with the others. If its under warranty, stand your ground and make them fix it. Take the newgen speed chart to them, but don't take no for an answer.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Even a barely running Ninja will smoke a CBR250R. I think their top speed downhill with a tailwind is only like 80mph or so. I know a guy who has one and he says he wont go over 60 with it - too slow for the interstate.

Your bashing on the CBR is just as bad as someone who started on a 600 bashing on the 250... Chill.
I can assure you that a barely running ninja 250 will not smoke anything, not even a bicyclist. I've limped my ninja home on 1 cylinder and it could barely keep 35 mph wide open.

Link to original page on YouTube.
There's some ninjetters in this video (the whole SoCal race crew). Ask them about how slow Ari and his CBR250 were.

Back to on-topic discussion.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I can assure you that a barely running ninja 250 will not smoke anything, not even a bicyclist. I've limped my ninja home on 1 cylinder and it could barely keep 35 mph wide open.


There's some ninjetters in this video (the whole SoCal race crew). Ask them about how slow Ari and his CBR250 were.

Back to on-topic discussion.

Just sayin. Your ninjette ran at 35mph with one cylinder not firing. Pull one plug on the CBR250R and you wont go anywhere (short of it being towed).

The racing CBR250s are performance tuned with special EFI controllers and injectors that let them run almost as good as a Ninja on the high end. Not a good comparison to a street Ninjette.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I'm sure he's joking. Even a barely running Ninja will smoke a CBR250R. I think their top speed downhill with a tailwind is only like 80mph or so. I know a guy who has one and he says he wont go over 60 with it - too slow for the interstate.

I agree with the others. If its under warranty, stand your ground and make them fix it. Take the newgen speed chart to them, but don't take no for an answer.

I was joking, just got mad and venting. still love my bike just hate having issues when it is brand new. Like today, was cooler out and the RPM's were dead on. 8900k at 70 mph. But on warmer days will be at 10000k @ 70 mph. I will just call Kawasaki directly I guess

[Soujyu]

Originally Posted by LNasty

I was joking, just got mad and venting. still love my bike just hate having issues when it is brand new. Like today, was cooler out and the RPM's were dead on. 8900k at 70 mph. But on warmer days will be at 10000k @ 70 mph. I will just call Kawasaki directly I guess

One thing you may want to try is getting used CDIs on eBay. That's what I ended up doing. The first one I bought had the problem, but the second one I bought fixed it.

(You'll only be out $30-50 on each one, instead of $300 on a new one that may or may not fix your problem.)