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Old September 15th, 2016, 02:07 PM   #81
samson12693
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250r 2010 SE shim/carb screws

Hey guys hope this post is not too dead and everyone has not moved on to the 300FI lol wish i could. this is for my wife's bike 2010 snork removed. 2 bothers exhaust. She will not let me get rid of it....likes the sound smh.. so WHATEVER.

removed carbs reset idle screws to 0 turned out 2 1/2 turns each. bike gurrggles and when turn throttle it die etc choke bla bla ... pops a little etc.

stalls freaks her out etc dangerous etc. so today was gonna do the shim thing bought washers etc. said hey let me jack with these screws on the carb again seems like it is to rich...ran screws back in back to 2 1/2 turns still sucks turn back in ran back out about 2 turns bam no hanging just vrrroooom vvrrrrooommm choke is not on and only dies if i dont give it a sec or two between wot pulls sounds great all the way up the rpm band doesn't hang or dip below idle.

do you guys think i should go ahead and shim since i have fairings off etc i have not rode it down the road yet. bike is not totally warmed up other than me cranking idling and messing with screws?

or srcew everything yank carbs buy jet kit etc drop bike off at bike shop say here fix it I dont give a damn about the cost?
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Old September 15th, 2016, 02:12 PM   #82
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If you haven't fully warmed it up and ridden down the road, you really have no idea where the jetting is.

Start with that.
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Old September 15th, 2016, 02:42 PM   #83
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From what you described, I don't think shimming the needles is going to help. Setting the idle mixture screws to 2.5 turns out usually gets you very close, so it's odd that it won't idle decent. How old is the gas? Air filter good?

A couple things you can do before removing the carbs would be to sync them and check for a vacuum leak in the manifolds that connect the carbs to the engine. I might also drain the floatbowls and look at what comes out. If you have condensation in the gas, or it's bad, no amount of adjusting is going to make it run right.

Sounds like you might need to remove the carbs and go through them. The idle circuit (Pilot Jets and passages for the idle mixture screws) may be partially blocked. Cleaning the carb and jets properly isn't easy (read-up on it before you take things apart - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake) , but you'll never get it to run right unless everything is spotless and properly adjusted.
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Old September 15th, 2016, 02:43 PM   #84
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ok went and rode it everything is the same except for this...bike pulls fine but engine speed is slower but consistent all the way through.so it do not feel like a 2 stroke power bank anymore. however it only goes about 80mph i swear i remember this bike getting closer to 90 95 etc. i am sure it will go faster than 80 so just seems like getting close to max. anyways decided to put the choke on since it adds a little more fuel right... not a true choke from what i read and when that is on it pulls faster through the rpm band and feels like it gets up to speed quicker.

atm it sounds good vrrrroooooom and no spikes did stall on me once but didnt have the choke on and may have not given it enough gas... probably my fault. so what do you think now?

just saw the other post bike would run just would pop and gurggle and the wife would stall it sometimes after it fully warmed up it was more manageable but before we would go ride she would have to crank it up let it run for 5 to 10 to insure it would not die when she took off maybe that better explains were i am at...

so probably need to just clean everything up change coolant ( have to do it anyway bike maintenance) get rid of all the gas, clean carbs, leave the screws at 2 turns because it sounds great runs way better than before i did it with 2.5 turns. shim needles with 2 washers and then play with screws again? fyi didnt ride the bike much since i pulled thae carbs bike has like 1500 miles on it everything was clean however i have put fuel stabilizer in it when it sits for a few months hopefully i wont get roasted for that.
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Old September 15th, 2016, 02:48 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samson12693 View Post
ok went and rode it everything is the same except for this...bike pulls fine but engine speed is slower but consistent all the way through.so it do not feel like a 2 stroke power bank anymore. however it only goes about 80mph i swear i remember this bike getting closer to 90 95 etc. i am sure it will go faster than 80 so just seems like getting close to max. anyways decided to put the choke on since it adds a little more fuel right... not a true choke from what i read and when that is on it pulls faster through the rpm band and feels like it gets up to speed quicker.

atm it sounds good vrrrroooooom and no spikes did stall on me once but didnt have the choke on and may have not given it enough gas... probably my fault. so what do you think now?
Gas is bad or the jets are partially plugged. Carb needs to be gone through.

Same as before.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 12:00 PM   #86
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Regular washers vs Nylon washers

So been reading alot about the shimming and got me thinking, since most everything is Aluminum or Brass, should not the washers be of the same material or Nylon?
Are there any down side to using Nylon washers?
Will Ethanol in today's fuel cause issues with the Nylon?
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Old June 10th, 2018, 12:05 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmagrid View Post
So been reading alot about the shimming and got me thinking, since most everything is Aluminum or Brass, should not the washers be of the same material or Nylon?
Are there any down side to using Nylon washers?
Will Ethanol in today's fuel cause issues with the Nylon?
According to this: https://www.calpaclab.com/nylon-chem...ibility-chart/

Nylon and ethanol (or gasoline) are compatible. But remember, there is spring tension weighing on those things, and nylon is soft... unless metal is really hard to come by at your location, or you just have an overabundance of nylon washers, I can't see any reason not to use metal.

Hope that helps!
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Old June 10th, 2018, 12:58 PM   #88
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more worried about....

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDuck View Post
According to this: https://www.calpaclab.com/nylon-chem...ibility-chart/

Nylon and ethanol (or gasoline) are compatible. But remember, there is spring tension weighing on those things, and nylon is soft... unless metal is really hard to come by at your location, or you just have an overabundance of nylon washers, I can't see any reason not to use metal.

Hope that helps!


This is good information, I am thinking of the Nylon washer as to abate from rust forming from the normal metal washers.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 01:56 PM   #89
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I never had a rusting issue and just used some generic SAE #4 washers or whatever they were.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 02:24 PM   #90
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I used ordinary stainless steel washers from my #4 washer drawer if I remember right. I selected a set that were 0.020" (1/2mm) thick.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 02:57 PM   #91
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You only have to worry about galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals if there’s an ionic solution between them (salt water). Gasoline is non-polar and doesn’t contribute any ions to react with, so nothing to worry about.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 03:35 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
You only have to worry about galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals if there’s an ionic solution between them (salt water). Gasoline is non-polar and doesn’t contribute any ions to react with, so nothing to worry about.
Ahhhh, gotchya.....
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Old June 10th, 2018, 03:41 PM   #93
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Of course there is some alcohol in the gasoline in most cases, and that's polar.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 05:25 PM   #94
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No matter to any of the above. If those washers rust, then you're leaving the bike outside and not riding it enough... imagine what the rest of the bike would look like at that point.
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