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Old May 26th, 2018, 10:51 AM   #1
jp8484
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dynojet stage 2 kit vs.. oem?

hey guys
another day, another noob question..

Bike:
2010 Ninja 250

Mods:
el cheapo exhaust on the way
gaffler front brake line
r6 throttle tube
k&n hiflow filter (apparently... was told this by the previous owner but never checked on it myself)

is it worth getting the stage 2 kit? or just get different sizes from oem if that's possible option? and shim it with guide on here. (fixing the lean bottom and rich top end..)
already have 40 pilot jets ready to be installed but was wondering if it's worth the money to get dynojet kit.

and.. airbox/snorkel.. was told not to bother removing that as it will be pita to get it right in carb so i'm not planning on removing anything unless you guys have some solid advice.. (I do not have mechanical talent what so ever.. but know a guy who does.. also not planning on putting the bike on dyno to fine tune at this point)

thank you in advance!
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Old May 26th, 2018, 11:27 AM   #2
DannoXYZ
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No need to change jetting with your mods. Removing the snorkel alone is worth 1.5hp (leave airbox alone).

I have full Tyga exhaust with 20% more flow and 20% more power and I’m still too rich with factory 98 mains in the 11:1 AFR range. One of my sponsors Greg Spears recommended going down to 96 mains and adding washer or two in addition to two I have on needles.

That made top-end even crisper for another 1-2mph on straights (110mph after T1 @ Laguna Seca). But AFR is still too rich in the 11.5-11.8:1 range from 8000rpms onwards. Will probably go down one size smaller on mains and custom grind some needles on lathe with concave mid-section and remove washers.

Or convert to Microsquirt...

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; May 26th, 2018 at 02:50 PM.
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Old May 26th, 2018, 09:49 PM   #3
jp8484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
No need to change jetting with your mods. Removing the snorkel alone is worth 1.5hp (leave airbox alone).

I have full Tyga exhaust with 20% more flow and 20% more power and I’m still too rich with factory 98 mains in the 11:1 AFR range. One of my sponsors Greg Spears recommended going down to 96 mains and adding washer or two in addition to two I have on needles.

That made top-end even crisper for another 1-2mph on straights (110mph after T1 @ Laguna Seca). But AFR is still too rich in the 11.5-11.8:1 range from 8000rpms onwards. Will probably go down one size smaller on mains and custom grind some needles on lathe with concave mid-section and remove washers.

Or convert to Microsquirt...
I'm sorta following what you are saying.. haha
how does one check air to fuel ratio?
and... I just can't deal with the super lean bottom end anymore.. I want to be able to turn on and goooo
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Old May 27th, 2018, 12:16 AM   #4
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MOTM - Feb '18
if you have 40's in you cannot be lean on the bottom end. start out with shimming needles with 2 washers. you will be amazed at the change. buy a good pilot adjusting tool to help you set the pilots. I use a motion pro. works everytime

here is some info by ghostt on bench syncing and adjusting pilots (with 40's start with 2 turns out)
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223984
look for Conan pic on pilots. go ahead take that snork out, its a 10 min. job!

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Last futzed with by maverick9611; May 27th, 2018 at 02:19 AM.
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Old May 27th, 2018, 04:47 AM   #5
AwDang
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Originally Posted by jp8484 View Post
.. I want to be able to turn on and goooo
You do realize that it’s a 250, right?
Nothing happens below 9k
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Old May 27th, 2018, 06:16 AM   #6
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I agree. if ya want it to run a scalded dog, your gonna have to play with those carbs.
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Old May 27th, 2018, 06:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp8484 View Post
I'm sorta following what you are saying.. haha
how does one check air to fuel ratio?
Using a wideband O2-sensor. I prefer a unit with onboard memory for datalogging and no gauge (safer). And more accurate as you can analyze data in 100-rpm increments. Data from dyno works too. This is with snorkel removed, K&N, full Tyga exhaust (+20%) on stock 98.


Quote:
and.... just can't deal with the super lean bottom end anymore.. I want to be able to turn on and goooo
you may have dried gas and varnish clogging your fuel circuits. Carb cleaner does not dissolve the varnish. This explains some people’s progression to larger and larger jets over time. You may need your carbs refurbished by ducatiman with his ultrasonic chemicals and soda blasting wizardry. When I got my carbs back from him, my bike felt like brand model off showroom floor!

Also you can only do so much with carbs. There’s always a choke and warm-up phase when it starts. Only way to get instant start and go is with EFI, especially in cold climates.
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Old May 28th, 2018, 06:27 PM   #8
jp8484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick9611 View Post
if you have 40's in you cannot be lean on the bottom end. start out with shimming needles with 2 washers. you will be amazed at the change. buy a good pilot adjusting tool to help you set the pilots. I use a motion pro. works everytime

here is some info by ghostt on bench syncing and adjusting pilots (with 40's start with 2 turns out)
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223984
look for Conan pic on pilots. go ahead take that snork out, its a 10 min. job!

I have 40 pilot jets but haven't installed them yet.. planning on doing all of them at the same time once el cheapo arrive

will ask my mechanic friend if he has that tool!
thank you!
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Old May 28th, 2018, 06:28 PM   #9
jp8484
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Name: James
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Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Using a wideband O2-sensor. I prefer a unit with onboard memory for datalogging and no gauge (safer). And more accurate as you can analyze data in 100-rpm increments. Data from dyno works too. This is with snorkel removed, K&N, full Tyga exhaust (+20%) on stock 98.


you may have dried gas and varnish clogging your fuel circuits. Carb cleaner does not dissolve the varnish. This explains some people’s progression to larger and larger jets over time. You may need your carbs refurbished by ducatiman with his ultrasonic chemicals and soda blasting wizardry. When I got my carbs back from him, my bike felt like brand model off showroom floor!

Also you can only do so much with carbs. There’s always a choke and warm-up phase when it starts. Only way to get instant start and go is with EFI, especially in cold climates.
hmmm.. ok I'll check for signs of those once I start opening up the bike again. I'm in Canada so it does get very very cold here.. haha
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Old May 28th, 2018, 06:29 PM   #10
jp8484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AwDang View Post
You do realize that it’s a 250, right?
Nothing happens below 9k
haha yeah! but it's summer time.. it's still making me choke for longer than I want to....
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