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Old February 5th, 2018, 03:37 PM   #41
GreasedLissik
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Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
Measure contact area (seat-width), you may need to machine them narrower.
Might as well back-cut valves while you're there.
Are we talking strictly valves here correct?
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Old February 5th, 2018, 04:26 PM   #42
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Yep, as valve & seats wear, their contact area ring increases in width. This spreads out spring-force and lowers pressure at contact, leading to less sealing. Lapping further increases this contact area. FSM dictates minimum & maximum seat contact width. Aim for the narrow end of range first with valve-job machining (3-angles). Then lap just slightly to improve sealing.

With modern machinery, it's not any more difficult or expensive to cut fully-radiused valve-seats. Then cut flat seating area of minimum width to preserve improved flow. Much, much better than 5 or 7 or 9-angle valve-jobs. Also beryllium-copper seats shown transfers heat much, much faster than steel, reducing wear and greatly enhances exhaust-valve lifespan.

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Old February 5th, 2018, 07:24 PM   #43
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While you're at it... don't just rebuild willy nilly. Figure out why you touched off in the first place.

Lube oil blockage?

Excessive particulate/dirty oil?

Start attempts in the very cold that left the oil film depleted?

Issues with timing of the valves/spark?


I'm just spit balling here, but the suggestion still stands. You probably want to figure out the cause of your problem before repairing the damage from the side effects.
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Old February 5th, 2018, 09:09 PM   #44
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I totally agree, you need to find the cause of death, not just guess at it. Otherwise it will do it again.

My money is on low on oil. These engines don't hold a lot, so oil starvation is a common problem.

Always check you oil level before every ride.

Remember your T-CLOCK. I stress this a lot when I teach the BRC.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 10:00 AM   #45
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Thanks everyone, I got a granite slab last night that I will put on the Work bench
The cause of the problem, hmm I know I was quite busy and I never did my oil change just added to the motor, so I am guilty of that I have had a problem at 2/3 points of me owning this bike and the oil depleting on me. I do know the valve cover was leaking. I did notice when I was having the motor torn down the was oil behind the starter and under the air box. That is a good point to check around though, oil was in the bike, my uncle(long time racer/tech guy) said to me one time that I had to put the oil all the way to the top of the fill hole, I was like no way, I thought I would then loose performance.
Should I go ahead and get new ball bearings to make sure I don’t leak, I can’t remember if there was oil down there darn.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 10:16 AM   #46
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Not top of fill-hole, but top of sight-glass. I check it multiple times per day.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 03:20 PM   #47
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https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_check_my_oil%3F

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Engine_Oil
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Old February 7th, 2018, 09:57 AM   #48
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Thanks guys I looked at the when I got the bike I was just bringing up the conversation that I had with my uncle. I do have a few questions though:
If I get another cylinder block and lap it, I should be ok correct; or would I possibly have an issue with the block to crank case?
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Old February 7th, 2018, 10:17 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
Thanks guys I looked at the when I got the bike I was just bringing up the conversation that I had with my uncle. I do have a few questions though:
If I get another cylinder block and lap it, I should be ok correct; or would I possibly have an issue with the block to crank case?
I doubt there would be a problem. The cylinder to crankcase fit isn't subject to the same pressures that the head to cylinder fit is. You do have to be concerned with oil and coolant leaks on the cylinder base but a good gasket and gasket sealer (not RTV) should suffice.

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Old February 7th, 2018, 10:25 AM   #50
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The piece that you don't know where it goes looks like a cam chain guide.

Why did you need a cylinder again? I thought the rod bearings got toasted.

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Old February 7th, 2018, 11:04 AM   #51
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Just out of curiosity keep track of how much time and money it takes you to get it running again.
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Old February 7th, 2018, 09:23 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Just out of curiosity keep track of how much time and money it takes you to get it running again.
Thanks will do I will have it posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
The piece that you don't know where it goes looks like a cam chain guide.

Why did you need a cylinder again? I thought the rod bearings got toasted.
The cylinder bore was scored as well as piston and I didn’t want to bore it out, plus the other piston skirt was broken, the one with the bad rod journal.
I saw the exploded diagram and looked at the case at had, took off the transmission final gears shaft and bam saw that a twin holding the pin/rod in the crescent part of the bearing case
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Old February 8th, 2018, 07:00 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
The cylinder bore was scored as well as piston and I didnít want to bore it out, plus the other piston skirt was broken, the one with the bad rod journal.
I saw the exploded diagram and looked at the case at had, took off the transmission final gears shaft and bam saw that a twin holding the pin/rod in the crescent part of the bearing case
You didn't want to just find a good used engine?

Though I have no idea what you are describing, it sounds expensive to repair...
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Old February 9th, 2018, 01:08 AM   #54
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At the time I couldnít find what I was looking for on Craigslist, and eBay wanted at least 500 including shipping, so I spent maybe 250 on my parts and got them, and learning a different process of doing something, never thought I was going to do ďlappingĒ on a motor. I was taught that milling would be best, maybe that isnít the only option.
So I got the crank, rods, cylinder block, and pistons all prepped and ready for tomorrow; the cyclindee bores will be honed after lapping process, I will be using a plastic gauge on the crank and rods, and the head will be serviced. This weekend I got to work a double shift but at least I will be doing my civic duty
I did do a little bit of electrical in the garage so I can have a outlet near the work bench and cut out the timing chain blocker/ aluminum guide
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Old February 9th, 2018, 10:06 AM   #55
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Did you get new or used crank & rods? Would be interesting to see what bearing-clearances are.

Good work!
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Old February 9th, 2018, 01:27 PM   #56
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Whatever you do, don't have the head milled!!!!! Lapping is what is needed. There isn't enough meat on the head. I've seen others have it milled even just a little bit, and then the valves hit the pistons, etc...

Kawasaki didn't leave any meat on the bones whatsoever.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 02:05 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Whatever you do, don't have the head milled!!!!! Lapping is what is needed. There isn't enough meat on the head. I've seen others have it milled even just a little bit, and then the valves hit the pistons, etc...

Kawasaki didn't leave any meat on the bones whatsoever.
Ehhhhh... Not sure about that. That's not what Eric reports. He's decked it before on his speed record bikes.

You definitely need to do a squish check with clay to see how much space you have before decking, but there should be some freedom in there. Maybe only 0.010" or so, which may not really even do much, but it's something.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 03:59 PM   #58
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Whatever you do, don't have the head milled!!!!! Lapping is what is needed. There isn't enough meat on the head. I've seen others have it milled even just a little bit, and then the valves hit the pistons, etc...

Kawasaki didn't leave any meat on the bones whatsoever.
Not to mention a slight modification to your camshaft timing.

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Old March 6th, 2018, 04:39 PM   #59
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So whatever happened with this?
Did OP give up and buy used engine?
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Old March 6th, 2018, 05:47 PM   #60
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If you still need a good crank and rods, I should have a good set in my parts motor.
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Old March 6th, 2018, 10:27 PM   #61
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torque it

harbor freight makes a great small 1/4 drive torque wrench.
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Old May 12th, 2018, 11:35 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Did you get new or used crank & rods? Would be interesting to see what bearing-clearances are.

Good work!
I got a new(used) crank, rods combo as well as cylinder block that came with pistons. and I looked up the clearances and took some plastigauge to it, everything was in order. I did have to get a new magneto, but not the coils.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Whatever you do, don't have the head milled!!!!! Lapping is what is needed. There isn't enough meat on the head. I've seen others have it milled even just a little bit, and then the valves hit the pistons, etc...

Kawasaki didn't leave any meat on the bones whatsoever.
yes I did research before I milled/lapped the heads, I found that lapping is a whole lot safer for these motors, and I think I might just do it on any motor from here on out since it slowly takes away at the meatiness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
So whatever happened with this?
Did OP give up and buy used engine?
sorry to my late responses, I had taken my first Emergency Medical Tech class, and hot dam it was rough, and I did not pass but I am taking it again and I am passing at the time being, other than that. The bike is holding up well I did realize my neglect of owning the motor and bike before I rebuilt the motor, the reason I have came to par for the rebuild is I never checked the oil levels. Well now I have kept my eyes open to every part of the bike (gee its almost like I forgot how to be a mechanic, like servicing parts). The Motor has about 1700 miles on it right now, I feel like upgrading to the 300 motor right about now, I might go to a motorcycle junk yard soon. I have noticed that I do have a problem with some vacuum lines, I will attending to soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94droptop View Post
If you still need a good crank and rods, I should have a good set in my parts motor.
thanks but I got mine off ebay:/ and this was completed within that week I last posted.

I do thank everyone who has given me information to do this, as well as this site, and the 250 site. I heard when I was on the road and my battery gave out on me, I went to a bike shop, that I can post the name is that is ok. An employee there told me he upgraded his rims to a 17" and that gave him better/ more tire options, I am now looking into that, and stumbled along:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=266182
which I will have to read up on. but right now I have to get my paper for emt class done as well as get ready for a concert. I hope every body have a good day
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Old May 12th, 2018, 11:40 AM   #63
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good luck
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Old May 13th, 2018, 10:00 AM   #64
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Good to hear you got bike back up and running!
Wheel swap to 17” is easy, for front follow that thread.
Rear wheel is much, much easier if you swap in swingarm from new-gen, no need to machine spacers or wheel itself.
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Old June 22nd, 2018, 10:45 AM   #65
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I would like to thank every one for their support in every from of way. So the news on this bike is that it leaked oil like a champ, my dumb butt used form a gasket. On the crank case when I built the motor from the beginning, so last week I order two parts, the looking glass, and the rear seal for the final drive shaft. And I decided to split the case and do the case properly with sealant.

Well, there I was ready to ride again after installing the motor again, throw it in gear, and jumped a little bit; let off the clutch and bammmm nothing happened. I did also buy a new clutch and springs to be safe since I am alrdy there. Back to the problem, after tinkering with the cable and getting it to the manual specs, still nothing. I did sit there try to throw it in Gear on the center stand, and that worked, and in that moment it went through all gears. Just not on the floor, it would only get out of neutral, and go in first, I then threw the motor off the bike again split the case to check the gear drum or something was miss placed. Although everything seemed right I canít figure why it wonít go nothings broken, gears and levers are fine.
I did have to but the rod for the shift lever, the one with the springs because I bent a peice of metal, I canít tell if I need the metal shaft that came with it or not itís like a spacer under the large spring and the center rod. Anyways. I am going to clean the oil off the case, and sealant the sucker back up and try it again hopefully everything works:/
I did mass my classes this semester, now got to take the NREMT
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Old June 22nd, 2018, 03:25 PM   #66
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Ok, so I had aproblem it was due to INDEX oh man, I guess I got lucky when I built it the first time, took a little more research but I came across this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185340
Very helpful, and just want to say again to everyone that has helped me, thank you, and I hope to save some ones for a 330 and maybe another bike.
But I did change my rear oil seal from the transmission final drive, changed the looking glass due to breakage/ leakage, and changed the sealant on the crankcase because I used some form a gasket, and by the looks of it no more oil leaks. But I did have that index problem for about two day because I did I know of that one.

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Old June 28th, 2018, 08:19 AM   #67
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Hey, great job on repairs! That's a lot of work, good to see you pulled it off!
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Old July 24th, 2018, 02:38 AM   #68
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Good to hear you got bike back up and running!
Wheel swap to 17Ē is easy, for front follow that thread.
Rear wheel is much, much easier if you swap in swingarm from new-gen, no need to machine spacers or wheel itself.
Good evening, everyone, Iím not quite sure if anyone has came across this but I have now installed the rear end from a 2013 300, and seem to have run in to a problem, the rear end seems to be riding way low, do I need to get or use different trailing arms? I also had to use washers on the trailing arm, the swing are was pretty easy, I had to cut off the closest brake line bracket, and I think I need a different chain to keep that stock ratio.? And ideas on these three? Any input would be great.
I did test drive it to see if it was ok, itís just supper looowwww; even on the kick. stand it was about to tip over to the right side
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Old July 24th, 2018, 07:39 AM   #69
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Here are some pictures, I guess I will have to take another with the bike on itís side stand
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Old July 24th, 2018, 09:28 AM   #70
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No need for different chain, sprockets are the same. You can move sprocket & carrier over from original wheel. Then use chain adjusters on end of swingarm to adjust before tightening axle.

Shock on 300 is same length as 250. Make sure you don't have knuckle upside down. Take photo from side below.
Did you grease all pivot bushings?

Not sure were you needed washers?

Get rid of that Crescent adjustable wrench!!! Only use sockets with torque-wrench to set proper bolt-tension on any suspension-related part. These are critical and can be difference between life & death!!!
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Old July 24th, 2018, 02:51 PM   #71
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Yeah I only use that to hold the bolt, and which bracket are we talking about?
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Old July 24th, 2018, 07:33 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
Yeah I only use that to hold the bolt, and which bracket are we talking about?
Certainly looks OK.

Do you have pre-load adjustment on shock turned up all way?

Also measure length of shock eye-to-eye
Measure length of dog-bone centre-to-centre

I think you might have aftermarket lowering dog-bones.
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Old July 26th, 2018, 06:22 AM   #73
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Thanks Danno, I took a look last night and found that the suspension is not like the coilover, it appears to a solid strut. And looking at the diagrams(#1) should I charge over that small bracket, the one that holds the lower suspension, trailing arm? First diagram is the 250, 2nd one is the 300. (#2) does the 300 shock and spring really fit the 250? If so I can just get the parts.
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Old August 4th, 2018, 11:43 PM   #74
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Join Date: Jan 2018

Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja eX250

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Certainly looks OK.

Do you have pre-load adjustment on shock turned up all way?

Also measure length of shock eye-to-eye
Measure length of dog-bone centre-to-centre

I think you might have aftermarket lowering dog-bones.
Thanks DannoXYZ I measured the dogbone and it was 16.5cm which that was looking stock, I did get the shock/strut from the 300, and set it to the 3rd from the highest setting, and saw a slight difference when I use the kick stand, but I like the center stand a bit more. but when i am ridding i do feel a lot stiffer and i am not bottoming out on my turns i just haven't done hard turn yet.
edited

I did find the stock dogbone length for when I measure it out:
https://www.kawasa***************/fo...#/topics/93250
What’s the bottom bracket called that’s connected to the dogbone and the strut?
And should I load the spring all the way to the highest setting?

Last futzed with by GreasedLissik; August 8th, 2018 at 01:15 PM.
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Old October 9th, 2018, 11:27 PM   #75
GreasedLissik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Not really a thread, but there's a few quick pointers.

I used one newgen mount and one pregen mount because the newgen boss is wider. Drill out the weld that holds the coil mount to the engine mount and use that on each mount without being welded on. The holes line up still.

Then I used a pregen radiator to clear the fairings and made small brackets to adapt to the one newgen mount. The newgen radiator will not clear the pregen fairings properly.

I used newgen plug boots to seat on the plug and in the head properly. Newgen leads as well. Pregen coils. Direct swap.

Newgen drive sprocket. Newgen sprocket guard.

Electrical connectors are plug 'n play. The neutral switch connector wire was a little short to meet up with the same clean path as it had on the pregen because there's no cut in the sprocket guard. I should have added in a little extra length... but it worked fine if routed carefully.

The only odd thing is there's not really a good mount for the radiator fill cap. It hangs there just fine, but it's not 100% as solid as it was before.

Aftermarket newgen exhaust. Doesn't clear the pregen chin fairing like you'd expect. If you get the most tightly wrapped header you can find that hugs the block and case tightly, you might get lucky and it might clear. I went without chin fairing because lazy.

Kleen air system blocked off.

Pregen radiator boots and carb boots. Pregen radiator. Pregen carbs. I think I ended on Keihin 108 main jets with a modified airbox lid, aftermarket exhaust, and +2mm bored engine. That is a logical spot considering the factory jets for the newgen are 98's.
im going to try to keep tis one short since its my second time typing it out, thanks to thermal problems on my laptop lol.
My rebuilt motor took a crabs on me again at 7k, so I got myself a 300 with 4k on it. it came with TB, airbox, stator only, and wiring harness for only 500 bones and today I have ordered a used oem headers, front engine mount, engine front sprocket cover, and a coil pack for roughly 80-90 dollars
Well I have been reading on people doing FI, NA/carbureted; and I believe that im leaning on the Carbed portion of this build, not knowing what i will have in mind for the later future.
But my Main concern is about the plug and play, since I have the stator already for the 300 pulled of, that was the first thing I took off, since i read that the pregen stator/magneto is a better set up and the covers bolt patter matches.
1) i do want to use the pregen stator and magneto it's cover/housing?
2) what do i do with the air pressure sensor on the top of the 300's valve cover?
i will be using the pregen radiator until i can find a car radiator, i am ok with welding some nuts onto cut rolled steel. I also read that the newgen coils where a good swap on the pregen but i forgot the thread that was on.
3) what did you mean but kleen air system block off?
4) could i use the pregen starter with the 300 gearing?
the parts that have been ordered seem like they will be here by Monday, but i should have the motor in the saddle after i pressure wash the bike. i still need to order a jet kit or send the carbs to be worked on by a well know skilledman

on a good note The bike does have the swing arm on with a 300 adjustable shock and a clean rim
i am on the hunt for a 300 front rim, cant seem to think of anything else that i would like to bring up right now, so have a good day everyone and thanks
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Old October 10th, 2018, 03:11 AM   #76
maverick9611
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i have a factory pro jet kit for pregens and a bunch of jets.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=324987
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Old October 10th, 2018, 06:19 PM   #77
choneofakind
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I have zero idea about anything related to the Ninja 300 engine swap because I've never done one. Sorry.
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 10:13 AM   #78
GreasedLissik
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Good morning everyone, so I was able to install the 300 motor in the 250, I did use the 300 front mount bracket, the coil o plugs, stock exhaust, stator and magneto. I did start it up but i only did so twice, it seem that i have to check valve clearance and shim them, because there is a ticking noise. I did extend about 5 wires to make this work

And my biggest problem is that clutch needs to be held down to start the bike(which has never happened before) and when i go to release the clutch the bike died, i have today off and will check to see if my sensor is working after i shim the valves
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 11:17 AM   #79
GreasedLissik
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One more thing, I went to the store to get jets, but they gave me jets and pilots that were totally different. Iím going to return them and get a set that I was offered
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Old October 22nd, 2018, 02:58 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
Good morning everyone, so I was able to install the 300 motor in the 250, I did use the 300 front mount bracket, the coil o plugs, stock exhaust, stator and magneto. I did start it up but i only did so twice, it seem that i have to check valve clearance and shim them, because there is a ticking noise. I did extend about 5 wires to make this work

And my biggest problem is that clutch needs to be held down to start the bike(which has never happened before) and when i go to release the clutch the bike died, i have today off and will check to see if my sensor is working after i shim the valves
Make sure your side stand is retracted when you release the clutch lever.

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