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Old January 27th, 2018, 01:04 PM   #1
GreasedLissik
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New here & lookin to rebuild

Hello everybody, I purchased a 2007 Ninja over the summer of 2017, I added a small mod that was quite easy which was going with the euro look for the rear lights. The bike ran pretty good for the most part, the problems that I have had with it was that the idle wasnít great all the time but it was more towards start ups; and before the engine went caput the battery died after I wouldnít ride for a week. So my main reason for the post really is because I want to rebuild the motor, and I donít plan on going cheap.
The reason I have the motor went bad is that I am getting a pinging/knocking noise from the right side of the motor, I took it to a shop and they said it was coming from the timing chain and they said it would be not worth working on it,$$$. So that led me to suspect the rocker arms but when the valve cover was off I inspected the rockers and the chain and didnít see anything. Only sign of wear was when I drained the oil so I can pull the motor, and thatís when I saw the copper and aluminum flakes. Yes I like to rev high and go a bit fast, so thatís Off the chest which left me to suspect that it could be a bearing failure in the lower-end.
Motor is out of the bike, and I want to tear it down and rebuild it but I canít find where to buy bearing, any clues, buying old stuff is my last resort and I did read on a thread that some one suggested a big bore kit but that was 3-4yeArs ago. And I have links to some site of were I was going to get my stuff but I can post it upon request.
Pictures of the bike??
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Old January 27th, 2018, 03:31 PM   #2
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Greetings, and welcome

My 2Ę on rebuilding the engine is don't waste your time and money. These are cheap, enough to get another used one, and keep riding. These engines are disposable, cheap and plentifully.

There will always be some sediments in the oil, I'd say replace the CCT, and see if that eliminates the Cam chain noise.

And how bjgh are you revving it? And how long? These engines are pretty tough, assuming you keep the oil up to level, clean, filter, and oil pump screen, etc.... Same to be said about the clutch.

These engines are known to make a knocking sound, which is most likely the clutch basket, which is nothing to worry about.

Read this https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What%2..._the_clutch%3F

Hope this helps you out.

P. S. How many miles on it?
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Old January 27th, 2018, 04:45 PM   #3
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So your saying to try to find a motor that had been pulled and go with them saying tha it still runs, the shipping on that kind of stuff is a bit pricey, and going on the risk of it going to run just kinda seems iffy to me though I have done that on a car before and had to rebuild the car, I will leave that as my last option because then I can have donor motor I can piece together.
The cct is down in the chain channel? I will take a look at some exploded view of a motor.
I had I think 15k+ on the motor
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Old January 27th, 2018, 05:17 PM   #4
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Odds are the knocking noise is the clutch basket, the ninja 250 PreGen and it's bigger brother have the same issue. It's nothing to worry about, as both of my bikes make that noise, and they have about 50k miles on each.

The CCT is on the clutch side mounted on the outside of the motor here's a link that, should help you out,

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cam_ch...sioner_removal

You can try cleaning it, I've tried to clean mine, but had to get a new one, and that fixed my Cam chain noise.

I'd say keep the motor you got for now, and check Craig's list for a doner bike, you can pick one up cheap, I've done this as well too. Because this is an, entry level bike, the get wreaked often, so you can buy one cheap.

Rebuilding these engines is different that a car, the head and cylinder need to be lapped, not cut!!!! Milled, etc... There isn't enough meat on it for that. Also the cylinder bore is also thin, so you can go too much over maybe. 005 over. Add to all, this the cost is parts, gaskets etc.... And you'd be better off finding another engine cheap.

If any member here is close by maybe they could help you out and take a look. Unfortunately it's the wrong time of year for me to make a road trip.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
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Old January 27th, 2018, 05:52 PM   #5
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Ok I get what your say but there is a major issue with it, thatís my I am not reading it and not worrying about the knocking. Clutch was fine when I ride but the rpms wonít run past 4K, and itís not a small knock. But thanks for the your opinion, i I will give it a second till I get a motor.
Thanks Ghostt
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Old January 27th, 2018, 05:57 PM   #6
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So it's knocking over 4k rpm?
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Old January 27th, 2018, 06:10 PM   #7
GreasedLissik
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No the motor will not run past 4-5k like a piston isnít working, And itís knocking all the time; I must keep my hand on the throttle to keep the engine from not dying.
The last time I was on the freeway and the bike died on me, thus the problem was occurring. So yes I tried to run it again but i couldnít as well as me pushing it off the freeway and having a friend pick it up oil was inside.
Thatís when I took it to shop and they told me there was a possible problem in the timing chain
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Old January 27th, 2018, 06:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
Hello everybody, I purchased a 2007 Ninja over the summer of 2017, I added a small mod that was quite easy which was going with the euro look for the rear lights. The bike ran pretty good for the most part, the problems that I have had with it was that the idle wasnít great all the time but it was more towards start ups; and before the engine went caput the battery died after I wouldnít ride for a week. So my main reason for the post really is because I want to rebuild the motor, and I donít plan on going cheap.
The reason I have the motor went bad is that I am getting a pinging/knocking noise from the right side of the motor, I took it to a shop and they said it was coming from the timing chain and they said it would be not worth working on it,$$$. So that led me to suspect the rocker arms but when the valve cover was off I inspected the rockers and the chain and didnít see anything. Only sign of wear was when I drained the oil so I can pull the motor, and thatís when I saw the copper and aluminum flakes. Yes I like to rev high and go a bit fast, so thatís Off the chest which left me to suspect that it could be a bearing failure in the lower-end.
Motor is out of the bike, and I want to tear it down and rebuild it but I canít find where to buy bearing, any clues, buying old stuff is my last resort and I did read on a thread that some one suggested a big bore kit but that was 3-4yeArs ago. And I have links to some site of were I was going to get my stuff but I can post it upon request.
Pictures of the bike??
Yes - that would suggest toasted bearings, most likely the big-end rod bearings - which would mean the crank journals are most likely damaged as well.

That's where it gets expensive, and that's why most of the time it's a much more cost-effective route to pick-up a different engine. I sold one last summer with low miles (no carbs) for $250. You can't get very far with $250 when it comes to major rebuilds.

These bikes can be a dime-a-dozen, so you need to be careful how much you put into them if you don't want to lose a bunch of money when you sell it.
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Old January 27th, 2018, 11:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
Hello everybody, I purchased a 2007 Ninja over the summer of 2017, I added a small mod that was quite easy which was going with the euro look for the rear lights. The bike ran pretty good for the most part, the problems that I have had with it was that the idle wasnít great all the time but it was more towards start ups; and before the engine went caput the battery died after I wouldnít ride for a week. So my main reason for the post really is because I want to rebuild the motor, and I donít plan on going cheap.
The reason I have the motor went bad is that I am getting a pinging/knocking noise from the right side of the motor, I took it to a shop and they said it was coming from the timing chain and they said it would be not worth working on it,$$$. So that led me to suspect the rocker arms but when the valve cover was off I inspected the rockers and the chain and didnít see anything. Only sign of wear was when I drained the oil so I can pull the motor, and thatís when I saw the copper and aluminum flakes. Yes I like to rev high and go a bit fast, so thatís Off the chest which left me to suspect that it could be a bearing failure in the lower-end.
Motor is out of the bike, and I want to tear it down and rebuild it but I canít find where to buy bearing, any clues, buying old stuff is my last resort and I did read on a thread that some one suggested a big bore kit but that was 3-4yeArs ago. And I have links to some site of were I was going to get my stuff but I can post it upon request.
Pictures of the bike??
You might consider pulling the cam chain tensioner off, clean it and reinstall it if it doesn't have any unusual wear on any part. I bought my 2007 last March and that was one of the first things I did. Just be careful removing it. Back out the two cap screws 1/2 a turn at a time or it will cock and lock in place. When you reinstall it use Permatex locktight blue on the threads. I placed a light film of lithium grease on all the moving parts of mine. You shouldn't need a cam chain at 15K miles and you don't need to clean the chain. The metal particles in the oil is a concern. Pull the sump screen and see if there is a-lot of metal on the screen. If there is you may have a bearing or piston issue.

Bill
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Old January 28th, 2018, 12:16 AM   #10
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Welcome! I hope you figure out a good solution to your problem.
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Old January 28th, 2018, 07:38 AM   #11
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How to check the pump screen

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Checking_the_oil_screen

Handy link https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto

Also have you done/checked the valve adjustment? As this is one of the most overlooked items of maintenance.
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Old January 28th, 2018, 07:45 AM   #12
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If you do decide to go through the engine that you have, this link is usually helpful.
http://www.rcramer.com/bikes/ex250/rebuild_notes.html

I've been down that road. Did a bunch of top end work. Spent more time and money than I should have. Engine swapping (and I even used a new gen engine, which added some extra work) was easier. If I hadn't been so damn lazy and busy, the swap would have been a single day event.

If you're familiar with the bike and prepared for the job, you can have it stripped and engine out within an hour or two.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 11:48 AM   #13
GreasedLissik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Yes - that would suggest toasted bearings, most likely the big-end rod bearings - which would mean the crank journals are most likely damaged as well.

That's where it gets expensive, and that's why most of the time it's a much more cost-effective route to pick-up a different engine. I sold one last summer with low miles (no carbs) for $250. You can't get very far with $250 when it comes to major rebuilds.

These bikes can be a dime-a-dozen, so you need to be careful how much you put into them if you don't want to lose a bunch of money when you sell it.
Thanks I am looking around for a motor both newer/old gen


Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
If you do decide to go through the engine that you have, this link is usually helpful.
http://www.rcramer.com/bikes/ex250/rebuild_notes.html

I've been down that road. Did a bunch of top end work. Spent more time and money than I should have. Engine swapping (and I even used a new gen engine, which added some extra work) was easier. If I hadn't been so damn lazy and busy, the swap would have been a single day event.

If you're familiar with the bike and prepared for the job, you can have it stripped and engine out within an hour or two.
Thanks Chone, I do happen to have a motor locally that is a 08-12 for 200$
If you had a thread of how you did that swap it might be useful, I On the fence still but leaning towards the rebuild of the pistons/walls are not damaged.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
How to check the pump screen

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Checking_the_oil_screen

Handy link https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto

Also have you done/checked the valve adjustment? As this is one of the most overlooked items of maintenance.
Thanks Ghost, I didn’t realize there is a screen on the bike I will go though it later today.
Though I did do the rocker arms 3-5k ago when I first got the bike for maintenance, and pull the carbs to make sure they were clean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
You might consider pulling the cam chain tensioner off, clean it and reinstall it if it doesn't have any unusual wear on any part. I bought my 2007 last March and that was one of the first things I did. Just be careful removing it. Back out the two cap screws 1/2 a turn at a time or it will cock and lock in place. When you reinstall it use Permatex locktight blue on the threads. I placed a light film of lithium grease on all the moving parts of mine. You shouldn't need a cam chain at 15K miles and you don't need to clean the chain. The metal particles in the oil is a concern. Pull the sump screen and see if there is a-lot of metal on the screen. If there is you may have a bearing or piston issue.

Bill
I will be sure to check this when I am out there I might remove the clutch to see do a bit of investigation.

Thank you everyone home to have this going in 2-4weeks.
I do have a boroscope I sure for Work and will inspect the pistons and maybe down the chain channel if I go that far.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 12:18 PM   #14
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As for swapping I did just go over this post:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...gen+motor+sale
Which kinda of changes the game especially if I have more options and a little bit more parts that I have a quantity of in my area. I will have to go over the post again as I under stand that if I just shave 1/4Ē off rachel side then I could make it work with the fuel pump?
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Old January 29th, 2018, 12:28 PM   #15
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This is a picture of the bike kind of when I first got it, seat was torn at first then some drunk chick knocked over my bike and hasnít paid for it. Only photo I have of the bike right now but I replaced the mirror and want to use:
https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=...1&LH_PrefLoc=1
To repair the plastics if she doesnít pay me.
I have had to change the tire out and the shop was going to charge me a bit more bucks to do it so I just gave them the wheel, placed it on there and cleaned and then line the chain did the rear brakes while I was there but that was before the bit went caput.
I also did the seat my self got the vinyl and the staple gun and three the vinyl in the dryer.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 01:24 PM   #16
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The fairings are ABS, so ABS cement from the hardware store's plumbing department works well, along with some reinforcing cloth like fiberglass, or some thin ABS sheet cut to patch the back side.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 01:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Yes - that would suggest toasted bearings, most likely the big-end rod bearings - which would mean the crank journals are most likely damaged as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
If you had a thread of how you did that swap it might be useful, I On the fence still but leaning towards the rebuild of the pistons/walls are not damaged.
The critical part you should inspect first is the crank's rod-journals. If those are toast, you're looking at $1000 in machine-shop services to rebuild the crank, resize con-rods, find oversized bearings, etc.



A used pre-gen engine can be found for much less. In fact, I have two on the shelf, but shipping will be prohibitive.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 03:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
This is a picture of the bike kind of when I first got it, seat was torn at first then some drunk chick knocked over my bike and hasnít paid for it. Only photo I have of the bike right now but I replaced the mirror and want to use:
https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=...1&LH_PrefLoc=1
To repair the plastics if she doesnít pay me.
I have had to change the tire out and the shop was going to charge me a bit more bucks to do it so I just gave them the wheel, placed it on there and cleaned and then line the chain did the rear brakes while I was there but that was before the bit went caput.
I also did the seat my self got the vinyl and the staple gun and three the vinyl in the dryer.
This is what I used and can certify it works;

https://easyabsrepair.com

Bill
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Old January 29th, 2018, 06:54 PM   #19
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If you had a thread of how you did that swap it might be useful, I On the fence still but leaning towards the rebuild of the pistons/walls are not damaged.
Not really a thread, but there's a few quick pointers.

I used one newgen mount and one pregen mount because the newgen boss is wider. Drill out the weld that holds the coil mount to the engine mount and use that on each mount without being welded on. The holes line up still.

Then I used a pregen radiator to clear the fairings and made small brackets to adapt to the one newgen mount. The newgen radiator will not clear the pregen fairings properly.

I used newgen plug boots to seat on the plug and in the head properly. Newgen leads as well. Pregen coils. Direct swap.

Newgen drive sprocket. Newgen sprocket guard.

Electrical connectors are plug 'n play. The neutral switch connector wire was a little short to meet up with the same clean path as it had on the pregen because there's no cut in the sprocket guard. I should have added in a little extra length... but it worked fine if routed carefully.

The only odd thing is there's not really a good mount for the radiator fill cap. It hangs there just fine, but it's not 100% as solid as it was before.

Aftermarket newgen exhaust. Doesn't clear the pregen chin fairing like you'd expect. If you get the most tightly wrapped header you can find that hugs the block and case tightly, you might get lucky and it might clear. I went without chin fairing because lazy.

Kleen air system blocked off.

Pregen radiator boots and carb boots. Pregen radiator. Pregen carbs. I think I ended on Keihin 108 main jets with a modified airbox lid, aftermarket exhaust, and +2mm bored engine. That is a logical spot considering the factory jets for the newgen are 98's.
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Old January 30th, 2018, 06:19 PM   #20
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I purchased a mostly complete parts bike just for the motor, not too long ago. I was able to test ride it, to ensure that the motor ran, and shifted well.

The most important part of this is that I drained the oil, and dropped the oil screen before committing to the purchase. No "gold flecks" in the oil, and no bits ( or chunks ) of metal in the screen = a good used motor in my book.
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Old January 30th, 2018, 06:30 PM   #21
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This is what I found in one motor that I took a chance on. At least it came with carbs, which was worth what I paid for the package.
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Old January 31st, 2018, 05:41 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by spent_too_much View Post
I purchased a mostly complete parts bike just for the motor, not too long ago. I was able to test ride it, to ensure that the motor ran, and shifted well.

The most important part of this is that I drained the oil, and dropped the oil screen before committing to the purchase. No "gold flecks" in the oil, and no bits ( or chunks ) of metal in the screen = a good used motor in my book.
Heck... the parts bike doesn't even look bad!

Soon it will sound good.
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Old February 1st, 2018, 11:58 PM   #23
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So I happened to be bored and not working lately, so I want to also get this bike going before the semester starts back up again; I have the motor on the bench, and got the clutch and the cams off, chain is loose and that hefty 27mm nut behind the clutch set, I think I was stressing that I needed to split the case vertical, but when I saw the parts diagram online I saw that it is split horizontally. So I take it that I don’t need to worry about a case splitter/installer.
I am kinda of strapped in cash but I feel like I just want to find the source of problem. Though I do wish to go with that newer motor :/
The pictures are a bit self explanatory, and one for fun when I went to the park with the doggy

Last futzed with by GreasedLissik; February 4th, 2018 at 10:35 AM.
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Old February 2nd, 2018, 11:17 AM   #24
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The pictures are a bit self explanatory, and one for fun when I went to the park with the soggy
huh? You threw toasted engine into tree?
Kinda like how bums toss shoes over power-lines?
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Old February 2nd, 2018, 07:45 PM   #25
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huh? You threw toasted engine into tree?
Kinda like how bums toss shoes over power-lines?
Haha naw I saw my first owl.
But I was able to have some time for my self and find out what was wrong
I did find a small shaft where I donít know where it goes
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 02:41 AM   #26
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So I have my pastes list and the price I am estimated at is 250-325 including gaskets
I feel like this might be the best way to go for now, due to the modification and the possibility of extra work of putting in a new motor, I just would like to get this done at least one week after my school semester starts.
I will save up for the new gen just in case if I get another bike or whatever.
But I beleave I will keeping the stock bite size, if there was no problem on the top of my pistons I donít need to change the vaulted our right, or should I just check the just in case, I could at lease take them off and clean them:/ maybe take that part to a shop
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 06:32 AM   #27
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Whatever you don't don't let the shop cut the head and/or bore, there isn't any extra meat there. You'll need to Lapp the them to assure you have a proper seal.

Here's my write-up on the subject

Okay this goes for the Ninja 500, but I'm sure the Ninja 250 is the same, if not please let me know

The intake valves are case hardened to a thin level of hardness and much in the way of metal removal with destroy them.

Why do you think you need to lap them? if they are worn you need to re cut the seats and fit new valves ,no lapping required. If they are worn badly enough to need anything at all they develop a groove that offself is the detriment to flow. Lapping will make that worse.

Head Gasket repair

Lapping the head

A common failure of the EX engine is, a blown head gasket. The usual cause of this besides the obvious low water or frozen coolant reasons is, warpage of the mating surface between the head and the cylinders. The string of events leading to overheating is:

High pressure gas leaks from the combustion chamber into the coolant system, thereby over pressurizing it and blowing coolant overboard, then the coolant shortage causes overheating which causes even greater warp age, add on infanatum...

As well as the above, any engine that has had the head removed for any reason need to be re lapped. This engine is a very flexible unit because of the cam chain gallery down the middle. The only thing holding the two cylinders together is the very thin wall of the front and back sides of the chain gallery. 1/8” if you’re lucky. This means that the engine works like two single cylinder engines running from a single crank held together by scotch tape. As long as they remain together they are usually fine, but once disassembled they need to be re flattened

The repair:

Unfortunately it is not a simple as replacing the head gasket. Because the “gasket” is not compressible, it is not able to absorb even slight distortion or warp age that may not even be detectable with the usual straight edge type of inspection. The up side of this is that you can re use the gasket.

Tools needed:

A lapping plate; usually a steel flat plate or a pain of flat plate glass. I’ve used my table saw table successfully (the cast iron type)

Lapping compound: Valve lapping compound available at a Auto parts store

The means to wash the parts clean after lapping. A bucket of Kerosene is fine.

The Idea is to use the abrasive to grind down the high spots of the head and the cylinders till they are perfectly flat. See the pictures below.

The process move the part over the surface of the Lapp in a figure 8 motion

Clean and inspect your progress often. Shown is a partially cleaned surface

You are now ready for reassembly. Clean the old head gasket with lacquer thinner and Scotch brute or steel wool. Then repaint it with 1 coat of spray enamel on both sides (1 coat)

After assembly increase the Head Bolt torque to 40 lbs. ft.

Now’s a good time to degree you cams.

Freshly lapped set


Shows the process and the lapp plate
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 08:16 AM   #28
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Ghost, thank you so much you just helped me save at lease 50$ on gaskets. On the two cylinder gaskets I can take the Copper gasket spray and make them a little sticky and reuse the two gaskets right??

Do you know if lapping is manditory? I or should I bust out the straight edge and find out if itís warped?
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 09:49 AM   #29
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First step is to assess specs on what you have to work with.
1. Measure head and deck flatness. If they are within spec, no lapping needed. If warpage beyond spec, then lap to within proper spec

2. Still no pictures of crank rod-journals. Flip bottom end over and remove con-rods. Crank may really be toast and the sooner you find this out, the less time and money you’ll waste.
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 12:41 PM   #30
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First step is to assess specs on what you have to work with.
1. Measure head and deck flatness. If they are within spec, no lapping needed. If warpage beyond spec, then lap to within proper spec

2. Still no pictures of crank rod-journals. Flip bottom end over and remove con-rods. Crank may really be toast and the sooner you find this out, the less time and money youíll waste.
So far I havenít found anything on the internet about block warp clearances, pregen; I did find the next gen clearance. And I know for a fact that the connecting rod I was hold is toast, I will be getting a replacement one. But I will be tearing it up for documentation reasons. Thanks Jac
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 03:30 PM   #31
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Yes lapping is in my book mandatory!!!!, and I reuse the cylinder/head gasket all the time, but I also lap them every time!!!!

I've said this before in other posts, only to be ignored, and then read about how the head gasket leaked, etc... And they wonder why???

Lapping is easy enough to do, and doesn't cost a lot, the only cost it your time, and having it not leak.

As my write-up states is was done for the 500, which has a design flaw due to the cam chain runs between the two cylinders, but the lapping principal is the same, as is the head gasket, etc....
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 04:06 PM   #32
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Yes lapping is in my book mandatory!!!!, and I reuse the cylinder/head gasket all the time, but I also lap them every time!!!!

I've said this before in other posts, only to be ignored, and then read about how the head gasket leaked, etc... And they wonder why???

Lapping is easy enough to do, and doesn't cost a lot, the only cost it your time, and having it not leak.

As my write-up states is was done for the 500, which has a design flaw due to the cam chain runs between the two cylinders, but the lapping principal is the same, as is the head gasket, etc....
Then I will just do it, is the crank case need to be lapped as well? I will go through your posts on your page. I have seen a long time ago that someone used thousand grit on a glass table but I Maghreb just use a wood table
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 04:08 PM   #33
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Follow the write-up, wood is a no-go!!!!

You need to understand the lapping principal.
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 04:27 PM   #34
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Then I will just do it, is the crank case need to be lapped as well? I will go through your posts on your page. I have seen a long time ago that someone used thousand grit on a glass table but I Maghreb just use a wood table
At the very least lay a piece of well supported glass on the wooden table - a very flat wooden table. 400 - 600 grit should work fine. The gasket should do the final sealing. Make circular swirls over the glass - not just back and forth or up and down. Ghost's on the right track for sure.

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Old February 3rd, 2018, 08:32 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
(SNIP)
A common failure of the EX engine is, a blown head gasket. The usual cause of this besides the obvious low water or frozen coolant reasons is, warpage of the mating surface between the head and the cylinders. The string of events leading to overheating is:

High pressure gas leaks from the combustion chamber into the coolant system, thereby over pressurizing it and blowing coolant overboard, then the coolant shortage causes overheating which causes even greater warp age, add on infanatum...
(SNIP)
We had that issue, and made that repair, on our low-mileage '09 Ninja 500 last year.

All good after completing the repair.

Here's additional information from the EX500 forum - http://www.ex-500.com/37-how-s-fyi/6...ad-gasket.html
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Old February 3rd, 2018, 10:25 PM   #36
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We had that issue, and made that repair, on our low-mileage '09 Ninja 500 last year.

All good after completing the repair.

Here's additional information from the EX500 forum - http://www.ex-500.com/37-how-s-fyi/6...ad-gasket.html
A granite counter top. Great idea. Flater than a piece of glass? As flat probably.

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Old February 4th, 2018, 05:18 AM   #37
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Back in Post #23, in the photo of the oil screen, that appears to me to be "gold flecks". In my book, that equals bearing failure ( not that I am an expert ). Have you evaluated the bearings yet, for the connecting rods, I think?
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Old February 4th, 2018, 04:38 PM   #38
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A granite counter top. Great idea. Flater than a piece of glass? As flat probably.

Bill
I used a quartz sink cut-out from a kitchen countertop.

I was told quartz is flatter than granite (not sure why that is).
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Old February 5th, 2018, 02:49 PM   #39
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So I have some parts on order- cyclinder block, with pistons, crank and rods, and new piston rings
I took apart the old crank and found the journal of the rod and crank were scored and I would think they need to be machined, I am on the hunt for a flat surface though to lap the block and the head, I would be cleaning the head and valves as well as lapping the valves
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Old February 5th, 2018, 03:02 PM   #40
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Measure contact area (seat-width), you may need to machine them narrower.
Might as well back-cut valves while you're there.
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