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Old November 26th, 2008, 04:30 AM   #1
kkim
 
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DIY: Let's Get Nekkid!!!

So much is covered up by that sexy body dressing, but you need to get under it to really get down to business...

Here's how... start with taking off the side covers. A #3 phillips works best, as a #2 will fark up the screw... ask me how I know.

-015.jpg

Once the covers are off, you will need to remove the allens around the lower fairing perimeter. There are 2 sizes of allens.. two larger sizes on the back half and 4 smaller ones with plastic washers on the front end of the fairing. Remember which ones use the plastic washers.

-016.jpg -017.jpg

On the bottom of the fairings where they come together, they use a plastic type rivet to hold the fairing halves together. There are 3 total... one in the front and 2 underneath. To remove, use a flat blade to pop out the middle section and then remove the rivets from the holes.

-018.jpg

On the inside front of each fairing is a black plastic piece being held on by two plastic rivets on each side. These work by pushing the center pin in till it clicks... about 1/4", then remove the rivets.

-019.jpg

One last allen to remove. It is located in the middle of the plastic tunnel looking thing in the center of this picture. It's the same size as the smaller allens from the fairing, but it has no plastic washer.

-020.jpg
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Old November 26th, 2008, 04:31 AM   #2
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At this point, all of the fasteners should be removed and the fairing is only being held on by tabs along the topside between the black plastic piece for the console and the fairing. You need to kind of slide it out and forward to get the fairing to separate. Easy does it as the plastic is brittle here.

-021.jpg

Once you get the fairing to separate, you need to unhook the blinker harness. I support the bottom edge of the fairing with my foot as I depress the connector tab to separate the connector. For some reason, this little connector can be a real SOB to come apart, sometimes.

-022.jpg

The tab to release the connector is next to my thumb in this pic.

-023.jpg

Some pics of the right fairing with the allens removed from the bodywork.

-024.jpg -025.jpg -026.jpg

Once you have both fairings off, you should be left with a bike ready to be worked on... and this is what she looks like nekkid...

-027.jpg -028.jpg

Installation is the reverse.. duh! To keep things organized, I usually group things as I take them off so when it's time to go back on, the parts are in the same place. Hope this helps all of you to feel more comfortable about how to undress your bike.

-029.jpg

some additional photos on how to remove the bottom fairing fasteners...

-030.jpg -031.jpg -032.jpg
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Old November 26th, 2008, 04:48 AM   #3
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You're the bestest kkim!

This is reminding me of poker rules btw...

I see your "Putting a bike on the stands" and raise you a "Adjusting valve lash" thread!
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Old November 26th, 2008, 04:57 AM   #4
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You're the bestest kkim!

This is reminding me of poker rules btw...

I see your "Putting a bike on the stands" and raise you a "Adjusting valve lash" thread!
The good thing is that everyone here is the winner by hitting the jackpot.


Thanks for sharing your DIYs, too.
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Old November 26th, 2008, 10:24 AM   #5
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Kelly, Your DIY`s are better than a Shop Manual. When I get my new computer, I will put them all on a CD. I still plan to buy a shop manual--not an Ebay pirate copy. I think that copying someone else`s work and selling it is wrong.
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Old November 26th, 2008, 10:32 AM   #6
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Glad to be of help, Alex.

Sometimes reading about it in the service manual just doesn't give you the full effect on what needs to be done. I try to supplement the manual with picture DIYs so people can visualize the task at hand.

Between Vex and myself, you ain't seen nothin' yet... hope to contribute more DIYs soon.
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Old December 4th, 2008, 03:48 PM   #7
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Kelly, You guys could publish a 250R DVD Shop Manual Supplement.
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Old December 4th, 2008, 04:08 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Alex Allmayer Beck View Post
Kelly, You guys could publish a 250R DVD Shop Manual Supplement.
lol... Alex, we are just trying to make working on the bikes a little easier by sharing what we have learned to fellow 250 owners. I always find pictures help a lot to supplement words if you're not right there doing it.

I contribute because I feel a need to give back, in some small way, to the people who have graciously helped me in the past.

I'm a firm believer of "Paying it Forward".
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Old January 31st, 2009, 03:56 AM   #9
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Just a follow on from kkim's post, for removing upper fairings and replacing a globe in the gauge cluster.

** images can be clicked to open higher quality version.

Remove the screws circled. One on each side. These two screws are the reason why you need to follow kkim's method first.. For some reason they decided to make it difficult to remove the front fairing. I guess so they can charge more on labour.


at the front


at the front towards the bottom, although these two should have already been removed when you followed kkim's method.


Under the upper fairing, there are I believe 4 plastic rivets, to remove you just use the end of a screw driver or something small and push the centre of the rivet in. The rivet should now come away when pulled.


Remove these two screws while supporting the upper fairing, might be easier to get a second person to hang on to it, although I managed to do it myself with a bit of twisting. The fairing should now be loose to come away.


You should be able to pull the upper fairing with windscreen/mirrors/headlight attached together, forward a few cms'. You then reach in behind the fairing and unplug the headlight cables. If you just wingle them back and forward they should come out. One closest to the camera is plugged in, and further unplugged to demonstrate what the plug looks like under the plastic.


and thats it for removing the upper fairing.


-----

Now for replacing the broken globe


this is the globe

Drove over to kawasaki parts store and they gave it to me for free. Recommend them.. Pro Kawasaki Nerang store on the gold coast, qld, australia.

Here is the back of the gauge cluster. You don't need to remove the cluster to access the bulbs.


The rubber grommets each represent a globe, you can generally gauge which globe is for what by looking at the front and then at the back and lining them up.. The speedo is the one circled. I just used a pair of pliers and twisted back and forward while pulling and the grommet popped out.

Pull the bulb out, can just use fingers... replace it, and turn the ignition on to check that it all works.


Success for me and if everything works for you, you can put it all back together in reverse.

Hope it helps someone else.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 03:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post

On the inside front of each fairing is a black plastic piece being held on by two plastic rivets on each side. These work by pushing the center pin in till it clicks... about 1/4", then remove the rivets.

this may seem like common sense, but it took me a while to figure out...

when you need to put these "rivets" back on: from the back side of the rivet, push the center pin back past the outer ring. position the rivet in the hole and push the center pin flush with the outer ring of the rivet until it clicks into place.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 03:59 PM   #11
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what cha doin', Gary??
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Old February 12th, 2009, 04:10 PM   #12
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oh, no. hehe. that is from when i shimmed my needles.

i was trying to push the rivet in the hole, reach behind the fairing, and tried to push the tab flush that way..... doesn't work. i figured it had to be something really simple.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:01 PM   #13
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Kelly - props for all your DIY(s). Putting a series of "remove & replace" type operations down in pictures and writing is sometimes taken for granted. You really convey them in excellent form. Especially for someone who lives in paradise!
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:11 PM   #14
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Kerry,

Thanks for the kind words... especially coming from a man in your position.

I'll take that as a compliment... even if I do live in paradise.

I'd like to also take this time to say "thank you" to you for all you do to support our small band of 250 riders with outstanding products from your shop. It's always nice when there are great companies like yours that provide support for niche bikes.

Any thoughts of perhaps developing an exhaust system for the pre 08 bikes?
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:37 PM   #15
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My pleasure.

I have thought about doing a full system for the pre-'08 models for awhile now. From 1980 - 1993, I ran a company called SuperTrapp/Kerker. In the Kerker division, we sold Slip-Ons for the older model 250. If there is interest, I would love to R&D a full system for one. We can do so much better than dual Slip-Ons, while gaining much more power and lighter weight with a 2-1 design. Someone nearby in SoCal would need to provide a bike for a few weeks. And of course they would get the first production system for free.

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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:39 PM   #16
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Wow... we need to get this offer out in the general forum.

Oh, Alexx!!!!!

Thanks, Kerry!
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Old February 16th, 2009, 07:36 PM   #17
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My pleasure.

I have thought about doing a full system for the pre-'08 models for awhile now. From 1980 - 1993, I ran a company called SuperTrapp/Kerker. In the Kerker division, we sold Slip-Ons for the older model 250. If there is interest, I would love to R&D a full system for one. We can do so much better than dual Slip-Ons, while gaining much more power and lighter weight with a 2-1 design. Someone nearby in SoCal would need to provide a bike for a few weeks. And of course they would get the first production system for free.

No way, I had a Kerker on my 1991 CBR600F2 for a while. Was a nice pipe.
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Old December 23rd, 2009, 07:58 PM   #18
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Loads of help using this today!
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Old May 9th, 2010, 01:53 PM   #19
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Nvm
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 03:11 PM   #20
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Just when I can't figure out why my fairing isn't coming off I remember Kelly did a DIY, I see why and my day is simplified. Thanks KKim.
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 03:58 PM   #21
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lol... and which fastener did you forget?
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 08:36 PM   #22
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lol... and which fastener did you forget?
The one in front in that black tunnel.
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Old August 2nd, 2010, 04:15 PM   #23
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You know, the title of this thread, while amusing, makes it darn hard to find when you need it!
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Old August 2nd, 2010, 04:25 PM   #24
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You know, the title of this thread, while amusing, makes it darn hard to find when you need it!
In forums go to - 2008+ Ninja 250R Tech Talk -

At the top there are stickies with all the DIY - Directory of all DIY threads on Ninjette.org-

It's in the first section.
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Old August 6th, 2010, 08:10 AM   #25
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Can someone post a DIY on removing the remaining plastics? I can probably figure it out with the service manual, but these DIYs with photos are fantastic!
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Old August 6th, 2010, 08:53 AM   #26
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What kind of thread-locker should I use and are there specific torque values?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cab305 View Post
In forums go to - 2008+ Ninja 250R Tech Talk -

At the top there are stickies with all the DIY - Directory of all DIY threads on Ninjette.org-

It's in the first section.
That's how I ultimately found it. I just didn't know if I should look at the Wiki or the DIY section first and thought that it would be easier to search. Normally, it would have.

Quote:
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Can someone post a DIY on removing the remaining plastics? I can probably figure it out with the service manual, but these DIYs with photos are fantastic!
Someone else can get you pictures but here's a quick explanation: The tail pieces require you to remove the side panels (two phillips screws-don't even try the ones in the included tool kit) and the main seat (two allen bolts). Unlock the rear seat and you can then remove the four allen bolts on top and two on bottom. The rear-most bolts goes into a rubber wellnuts that are probably both in two completely seperate pieces by now... you will want to hold the bottom and catch the loose piece when you remove each one. That's all there is to it except that you may have to remove the right side to remove the left side due to overlapping plastic.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 03:22 PM   #27
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anybody taken the tail section off yet?

ive gotten the fairings off, but i need to take the rear plastics off, and im not trying to break anything.



*edit* reading owns me.

thank you sir CZroe. lol.
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Old April 29th, 2011, 09:58 AM   #28
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would it be a good idea to do all this work, just because you want to clean more easily? or is it really not worth the trouble?
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Old April 29th, 2011, 12:21 PM   #29
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it's a good idea to learn how to undress your bike just for practice.

seriously, the more times you do it, the more you learn all the little tricks that make removing and reassembling the bodywork easier and faster without breaking/forcing anything.

as far as cleaning, I usually remove and clean everything that I can once every year or so with the bodywork removed. Once you're done cleaning, spray a light coat of rubber protectant on areas that were especially difficult to reach and next time clean up will be easier. just be sure to keep that stuff away from hand/foot controls and tires.
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Old April 30th, 2011, 03:26 PM   #30
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I did it today and I must admit that this DIY was very helpfull. As I live in Belgium (Europe), I think it must be interesting for you to see some differences.

The first is that there are no screws! See pictures. I don't how you call those in english but they are very easy to remove.

The second is that I could already unhook the blinker harness after removing the black covers. pretty handy
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Old April 30th, 2011, 03:30 PM   #31
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yes, we have the same screws... they are called Allen head screws/bolts.
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Old June 16th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #32
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hey thanks big mike! i am about to do a turn signal swap and was hoping to accomplish without having to remove the whole side fairings. im gonna go pop the black pieces off and hopefully i will see the connector!
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Old August 31st, 2011, 09:27 AM   #33
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good write up.
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Old January 19th, 2012, 08:26 AM   #34
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Thx loads for this. I just got a new fairing for the right hand side. Looks easy to follow your guide
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Old April 27th, 2012, 12:27 PM   #35
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excellent. went down on my bike wednesday and need to align my front fork, and this will help me take off the plastics (and eventually replace them). I have no qualms about working on my bike now..working on my car, that's a whole different story!!
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Old December 11th, 2012, 10:34 AM   #36
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I'm a picture type, so noticed there were no pictures for the tail. Hope this helps someone...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Someone else can get you pictures but here's a quick explanation: The tail pieces require you to remove the side panels (two phillips screws-don't even try the ones in the included tool kit)


Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
and the main seat (two allen bolts).


Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Unlock the rear seat


Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
and you can then remove the four allen bolts on top




Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
and two on bottom.


Finally, I found lifting the center part first (at the key lock) then pulling the rear peg from the rubber plug (not sure technical term), followed by the front peg seems to get the piece off the easiest as it is tight.







And now your bike is truly butt nekkid!

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Old December 11th, 2012, 09:18 PM   #37
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Old September 21st, 2014, 09:54 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trozza View Post
Just a follow on from kkim's post, for removing upper fairings and replacing a globe in the gauge cluster.

** images can be clicked to open higher quality version.

Remove the screws circled. One on each side. These two screws are the reason why you need to follow kkim's method first.. For some reason they decided to make it difficult to remove the front fairing. I guess so they can charge more on labour.


at the front


at the front towards the bottom, although these two should have already been removed when you followed kkim's method.


Under the upper fairing, there are I believe 4 plastic rivets, to remove you just use the end of a screw driver or something small and push the centre of the rivet in. The rivet should now come away when pulled.


Remove these two screws while supporting the upper fairing, might be easier to get a second person to hang on to it, although I managed to do it myself with a bit of twisting. The fairing should now be loose to come away.


You should be able to pull the upper fairing with windscreen/mirrors/headlight attached together, forward a few cms'. You then reach in behind the fairing and unplug the headlight cables. If you just wingle them back and forward they should come out. One closest to the camera is plugged in, and further unplugged to demonstrate what the plug looks like under the plastic.


and thats it for removing the upper fairing.


-----

Now for replacing the broken globe


this is the globe

Drove over to kawasaki parts store and they gave it to me for free. Recommend them.. Pro Kawasaki Nerang store on the gold coast, qld, australia.

Here is the back of the gauge cluster. You don't need to remove the cluster to access the bulbs.


The rubber grommets each represent a globe, you can generally gauge which globe is for what by looking at the front and then at the back and lining them up.. The speedo is the one circled. I just used a pair of pliers and twisted back and forward while pulling and the grommet popped out.

Pull the bulb out, can just use fingers... replace it, and turn the ignition on to check that it all works.


Success for me and if everything works for you, you can put it all back together in reverse.

Hope it helps someone else.
If you don't want to buy the 194 bulbs, how do you wire the normal LEDs? Since they don't have the flat connector
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Old March 12th, 2015, 05:44 PM   #39
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Are the pics for removing the front showing for anyone else? All I see are broken links.

If they are broken, I can snap some pictures...
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Old March 12th, 2015, 06:44 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaWolf View Post
Are the pics for removing the front showing for anyone else? All I see are broken links.

If they are broken, I can snap some pictures...
The pix and links are broken on the upper fairing removal. The domain is up for sale.... I'd appreciate a few pix. I have to jump in this area in the next week. Thanks!
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