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Old January 1st, 2022, 08:57 PM   #41
Bob KellyIII
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and the owners assumption that 150 PSI will blow all the stuff out of the tiny holes is a false one.... you could hit it with 250 PSI and still not unplug those tiny circuits.... I had a plugged idle/air jet on my Triumph I hit it with 110psi and no change at all .... i almost had to drill it out to get that piece of rust out of there ... once i did it ran fine.... you have to verify that all the circuits are clean..... you can't just blast it with an air hose and be confident it is clean.... not any more back in the 1970's ya could because they didn't make the passage ways so darn small as they do now ... now you need a jet cleaning tool and super small bottle brushes and LUCK to get them clean
I know.... I did that to my Ninja 250 and the carbs are still dirty ( i'll get to it again eventually)
seriously if you want it to run right some time soon.....send them to Ducattiman
it's a reasonable price for expert cleaning that guy KNOWS what he is doing !
PM here and talk to the man !
....
now where did my tinfoil hat get off to ?

Bob......
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 12:10 PM   #42
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I wasnt honestly expecting any more responses here so maybe we can get this done. I thought this had died.

Just to start off I found this yesterday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVzjM4oNJmw please watch

It is the EXACT same issue I am having. I dont know why the guy would post a video and disable comments on the video. Its absolutely the exact problem I am having.

Okay here I will lay out what I have done.

Initially I had to replace an o-ring on t-pipe between because it was leaking bad. Home Depot $2 fix....

I have taken the enricher off. Theres forums here on how to cap it off. It's simple just use vacuum caps. Its the same as on my Triumph. The enricher is not really needed. And anyway the problem I am having the enricher is not going to help.

I have (no joke) cleaned the carbs at least 30 times. Taken them COMPLETELY apart. separated them. I have even put all of the internals from my carbs from the Triumph that runs like a top inside the 250 carbs and it still acts the same.

The choke works.

Yes I have sync/balanced the carb bodies. MANY TIMES just to check that they are staying balanced

I have not done the valves but I can do them. I did them in February on my other bike.

I bought a new CDI. Non California CDI so technically if it was a California bike it no longer is

I bought brand new intake boots with band clamps. The old boots were cracked and were letting air in (vacuum leak) and the philips heads were stripped on the screws.

I think my bike was a California bike even though it was shipped and first registered in Alabama.

I have also capped the tank ports. Although for testing I have been using a bench tank bottle for gravity so thats clearly not a tank/vacuum thing.

Bought a brand new battery fresh off the shelf.

Good coolant with no overheating.

Brand new 4T Fully Synthetic with a brand new K&N filter.

I took all of the emissions crap off because after I was ran off the road on the bike all of the hoses and the charcoal canister were wrecked. Theyre not needed anyway. There are so many forums on how to delete them.

Please watch that video at the top of this comment because its the same problem I am having. I messaged the shop that made the video on FB and they havent responded whether or not they fixed it.

I am not clueless and I have a decent understanding of carburetors.
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 12:48 PM   #43
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Texas Moto Works...thats member @Detrailers video....not sure if he swapped bodywork or carbs , perhaps he's got more than 1 EX headache..but...looky this one in comparo

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shame to see an EX shelved because of (solvable) carb issues.
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 01:20 PM   #44
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Hi


I re-tighten the exhaust headers as some bikes run lean with a leak at the exhaust valve
(early honda xls will do this) will suck air through a header/ seal gap. That did not solve this particular situation. None of my KZs or GPZs do that but check yours ,this may be a quirk for the 250s

Adjusting the valves did not resolve the problem either.

I pulled the carbs for the 4th (maybe 5th time) and reinspected everything with a completed strip down.

The clutch side float bowl was 18mm height and the throttle side was 16mm.

As the book says bowls should be 17mm with a + or - 2mm range, I set them both at 18 mm. I am skeptical that this will fix the problem, but I haven't done the test ride. Its too damn cold right now.

My only other guess is that there is a leak in the airbox somewhere

I am definitely not a newbie and this thing really is a pain.

Do keep the thread going.

Last futzed with by How2; January 2nd, 2022 at 01:35 PM. Reason: better for reader
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 01:27 PM   #45
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Yep that is an idle circuit plug symptom i believe the flow of gas is restricted
in that circuit somewhere.... and it can't get enough fuel to idle
I'd suggest you open the fuel air screws to 2 ~2-1/2 turns don't follow the manual on fuel air screws on this setting .... ( that's what I found)
....
My bike would run great on one cylinder but on 2 at higher rpm
denoting a plugged idle circuit in the dead side... I am a retired motorcycle mechanic, I know carbs but these bastards are something else !
I had them off 3 times to clean them and finally got it to run right....
and now a few months later that crappy running is back....
..... seriously Ducattiman is your best answer to this problem there is a secret to cleaning these things that I have not found yet !
.... you have to follow the idle circuit with a fine tooth comb and get those tiny passage ways super clean... other wise you will continue to fight it like I am doing !
.....
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 01:32 PM   #46
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A word about using air on carbs

If you use high pressure air on your carbs, be sure direct the blast from the smallest hole opening to the largest.

If you have a particle of crud in the passage way you can lodge it permanently if you blast air in from the larger passage to the smallest. This is a common mistake made.

Keep in mind, the particle entered the system from the biggest hole opening and stuck in the smallest. Most jet engine mechanics had a practice of boiling systems in water to float out, particles of scale or debris

Be well
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 01:58 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
Yep that is an idle circuit plug symptom i believe the flow of gas is restricted
in that circuit somewhere.... and it can't get enough fuel to idle
I'd suggest you open the fuel air screws to 2 ~2-1/2 turns don't follow the manual on fuel air screws on this setting .... ( that's what I found)
....
My bike would run great on one cylinder but on 2 at higher rpm
denoting a plugged idle circuit in the dead side... I am a retired motorcycle mechanic, I know carbs but these bastards are something else !
I had them off 3 times to clean them and finally got it to run right....
and now a few months later that crappy running is back....
..... seriously Ducattiman is your best answer to this problem there is a secret to cleaning these things that I have not found yet !
.... you have to follow the idle circuit with a fine tooth comb and get those tiny passage ways super clean... other wise you will continue to fight it like I am doing !
.....
Bob......


Hey Bob

I will do the test ride when it warms up. Guess I am too cheap to send these little turds out! Its gotten personal now with those things!!

(And I am going to sell the bike in the spring)

As your carbs ran ok for a time, then the problem came back, my guess is there was scale or a bit of sand that hung up in the passage way.

I did not boil these carbs during the clean and may end up doing that for the idle circuit, since the bike only had 1900 miles on it.

Thanks for reaching out, I'll keep you posted
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 02:17 PM   #48
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I forgot to mention the floats were set to 17mm. they weren't correct when I started.
@ducatiman the video I posted of the yellow EX is his most recent video. He hasn't posted anything else on his YouTube since so I guess he hasn't found out what it is. That video was 3 weeks ago. I cant believe I found someone with the same problem though. I hope he finds the problem because I bought some slightly knobby tires and I would love love love love to use this bike for light trail riding. I love this bike and I hate to see it not being used. My grandmother bought it for me not long before she died so I'm not getting rid of it
@Detrailers maybe you have found out what it is but you havent posted yet?

I can check the valve cover but it seemed to be in good order last time I looked over the bike

I also replaced the spark plugs and I have in no order tried every single vacuum plug on and off to see if that helped, it didnt. so I'm guessing its something blocked in the carbs that I cant find

and if I remember right it was backfiring from the carbs quite a bit. but its been a while so I'm not sure if that went away or if its even relevant
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 02:29 PM   #49
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Very true ! but when the hole size gets to be the size of a straight pin and smaller high pressure has very little effect getting through , don't get me wrong ...compressed air is a very good tool but you still need extra curriculars activities to get these carbs really clean ... I bought a set of carb cleaning brushes from Amazon... for the Ninja but really didn't find much use for them except for cleaning the jets and such but when I got the Triumph they became indispensable ! that was the only thing I had that would clear the blockage in the idle jet in the Amal carb ( you can't take the jets out) i could not get the probe wire through on one carb but I could on the other so that told me the wire would indeed fit through the hole ! so I kept poking at it and finally felt a crunch and the wire started going through ... that was a victory I was waiting for ! I put the carbs back on and fired up the T140 and was pleasantly surprised at a idle on both cylinders ...finally.... then I put in new carbs that have removable pilot jets and got it tuned and called it done !
the ninja carbs are alot more difficult as they have a 90 degree turn going on in there.... you can't get all the way in there to clean it out with a wire.
.... and like the old Amal carbs have no way to access that area at all.
so unless you want to drill out and later plug that tiny passageway
you can't run a brush or probe straight in there .... that to me is a very POOR design....
there may well be a fix for that but I haven't found it yet... I am thinking of modifying the carbs so that passage way can be accessed and not destroy the carb in the process !
i think one side of that passage way has a plug that was put in in manufacturing... if I took that out and threaded a small screw to plug that hole afterword I could clean it real good.....
but the point is I shouldn't have to do that the idiots that designed the carb should be shot ! but... what else is new right ?
.... so the question is is it worth it? or is it easier to just send the carbs to Ducattiman who has all the equipment to clean the things correctly ?
and you get back a new set of carbs !
....
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 02:39 PM   #50
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marshallsmith27....
I believe he sent his carbs to Ducattiman and had them refurbished.
and THAT cured the problem !
so there is no Mystery here... its just dirty carbs ! pull your carbs off and send them to Ducattiman and you'll be done with the problem.
....
good luck !
....
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 03:13 PM   #51
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yup, here's detrailer's thread. Note numbers if times he swore he knew bikes inside & out and that carbs were "clean"

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=367339
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 04:39 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detrailers View Post
They are in Gordon's hands now and he found that the needle jets were wrong amoung other things. Clearly they were in the hands of a carb hack before I got this bike. No wonder now why I was having such trouble with them.
thats quoted from the thread you posted @DannoXYZ. tomorrow i think I am going to go through them entirely to see if mine seems right. if not I might DM Ducatiman. I am pretty certain they have all the right internals since it didnt run right with the internals from my other bike. Even though I am technically the first owner the local shop I bought it from "went through the carbs" before I bought it and at the time their shop wasnt the best at keeping quality work. It did sit for about 6 years so its probably plasticized gas stopping up vent or vac lines inside the carbs. Theres nothing else it would really be other than carbs. Especially considering when I used to ride the bike it was always a question if it would even start in the 60s and below and to be honest even on 100 days sometimes it didnt want to start well I think the two separate times it sat unused is the reason not that its missing anything

I bought the bike in 2011 I think with 4 miles on it. Since its a 2007 model it was built in 2006. 5 years of sitting before I bought it and 5-6 years since I rode it last

I will post a picture full disassembled and yall can tell me what yall see
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 06:26 PM   #53
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@ducatiman so he had mismatching needle collars?
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Old January 2nd, 2022, 07:12 PM   #54
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Yes, needle jets were totally incorrect, no idea of their origin...who, what where, why. Installed by a total hack, nonetheless. Ordered correct part #'s...problem resolved.

I believe I posted pics of findings in detrailers thread.
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 09:11 AM   #55
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Okay so at some point today I am going to go through them. Its cold here right now in the 20s and my shop has thin walls. should be warmer around 4 this evening which gives me some time to think of where to start out fresh. I have hope. I moved back from Boston spring 2019 because of Covid and Lived in Texas for the latter part of 2019. When I moved back to Alabama from Texas in January of 2020 I was only home for 3 days before I was t-boned on my Triumph. I spent 4 months straightening it back out and doing upgrades which took 4 months or so. Because of that I never got to test whether or not my upgrades from 2019 when I left Boston that I did on those carbs worked. ie cold weather starting being a PITA. When I lived in Boston all I had was my bike and I rode it no matter the temp or weather was. it was fun! people thought I was crazy riding in the snow and sleet and such but oh well. the problem there was that someone had jetted that bike terribly and it would not start if it was 26 or below no matter what I would try. I bought it from a man in Connecticut that trailered it from Oregon in hopes of selling a couple of bikes. So when I got back to Alabama for a month in 2019 I completely went through the carbs (it was daunting because I had never touched carbs before but I actually learned a lot) since I had the workshop in hopes of better cold weather starting but I never got to really test it. 2019 winter in Texas was the winter that froze the whole state remember? so even though I was in Laredo which is deep south Texas and Monterrey, Mexico (surprisingly it does snow and get cold there) a lot it was in the 30s but never colder. now fast forward to today in Alabama it finally got in the low 20s. this is the warmest Alabama winter I have ever seen. it usually always gets down to the teens and a couple of times in the single digits. I woke up this morning and it was 23. The bike started no problem! I was pleased! took a year and a half to finally see if my carb tuning worked but it did!

So what I am saying is that I think theres hope for this Ninja and I really want to get it on the road. If the Triumph that I used to miss work because the battery would die from only a minute of cranking will start now then the Ninja that never wanted to really start when it did run SHOULD and CAN run now! This bike means a lot to me since my grandmother bought it for me as a surprise. I'm excited now and I will update yall when I start taking the carbs apart in a bit. That was just a bit of a tangent because I was really happy to see what I thought was a cold blooded Triumph start with ease.

I do have an Antigravity AG-401 Lithium Battery 4 cell in the Triumph thats been in it since summer of 2019 so the lithium at least to me is the way to go and its TINY and has never failed me. It actually turned the engine over at full speed after 3 presses on the start button. So when I get this Ninja running it will be getting the same battery and a better pod filter.


tldr
If I could get a bike to start in below freezing temps that would never start before then we can get the Ninja running again.
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 01:52 PM   #56
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I think I may have found the problem
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 01:56 PM   #57
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I had a couple of blocked passage ways that I only realized when I used some welding tip cleaners. specifically the enricher choke circuit. but would that matter since I dont have it on the carbs anymore? I'm uploading videos now so yall can see
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 01:57 PM   #58
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Inspecting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5GhurztZf0

The full resolution on youtube hasnt processed yet
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 02:00 PM   #59
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What I did

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pV2MFbaDYs
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 02:25 PM   #60
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Good start!

1. poke out lateral bleed holes in pilot jet

2. poke out lateral bleed holes in emulsion tubes

3. poke out bleed holes in carb-venturi

There's A LOT of dried petrol deposits in tiny passages.


Quote:
Originally Posted by marshallsmith27 View Post
I had a couple of blocked passage ways that I only realized when I used some welding tip cleaners. specifically the enricher choke circuit. but would that matter since I dont have it on the carbs anymore? I'm uploading videos now so yall can see
Not sure what you meant by this since choke-jets aren't removeable?
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 02:35 PM   #61
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that's a start.... yes that is what you need to do but to ALL the circuit's of the carburetor !
mostly the Idle circuit where the fuel comes from , where it goes and where it exits...
and while your there clean the main jet circuit as well where it gets it's fuel how it is transferred and where it exits it all has to be free of blockages and then it will work like new...
the choke circuit is also very important ...put it back on after you clean the passage ways.... trying to use a carburetor that is not all put together is silly put it back to stock condition that is the only way you will know that it will work.... if you take the choke out you do not know if the carb will work at all !
....
I remember taking the accelerator pump out of a single barrel carb on my Old dodge pickup blocking up the holes and attempting to get the truck running after i did....
I had to dump alot of gas down the throat of the carb just to get it started ... then it would fall on its face when I hit the throttle ( obviously) it was a pain in the ass to drive like that ! yes it gave me alot better MPG which was the goal but it was not worth it
and I put it all back on ! ..... carbs are made the way they are for a reason !

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Old January 3rd, 2022, 02:49 PM   #62
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Sorry I didnt make that clear I ran the tip cleaners through every single passage way there was. Lateral and horizontal ones. I bought new vacuum caps just a few minutes ago.

https://i.imgur.com/KDrWLm6.jpg

This is what I have. one carb had almost all the holes and pathways clogged and I think its the one with the super stained float. I checked them they dont let water in when submerged

I have a feeling if I put the carbs on the bike it would run now. I mean I found tons of clogged paths that no amount of the 180 psi compressor I have cleared out �� you were right @Bob KellyIII about the compressor not being enough
@DannoXYZ I did that! I am hopeful now the carbs are squeaky clean
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 03:12 PM   #63
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The carbs have all stainless fasteners because the original ones were like the softest metal ever.

https://i.imgur.com/QsU6ion.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tebIVlb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Vifm62d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AG2eFnE.jpg

Tell me what yall think. I just did exactly what yall recommended. I had already done most of it before yall commented and was still cleaning
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 03:13 PM   #64
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EDIT: I had the images linked to where they showed up in the thread but they were GIANT like bigger than the thread screen so I just did them as links
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 03:20 PM   #65
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only one way to find out ... put them back on and see how it runs
.... remember the manual calls for i think 1-1/4 turns out with the air screw
but I found 2 turns out with the air screw is MINIMUM otherwise it would not idle.
GOOD LUCK but don't put it all back to gether just YET ! test run it first
it may well surprise you with some other hiccup !
after my first attempt of cleaning the old dry gas from the carbs I knew I found all the errors... so I re assembled the entire bike fairings and all only to find the thing would not idle, anything below 2000 rpm and it died !
so it ALL had to come apart again... so don't do what I did ! LOL
... so I did the carb cleaning again.... and again paying extra attention to the idle circuits making sure to get them clean ! PHITTTT ! i discovered their not clean YET !!!!! (it's real hard to clean around a 90 degree bend! )
....
these are the hardest carbs to clean I have ever messed with in my 68 years of life.... and yet their still dirty ! the answer is Ducattiman !
.....
Bob......
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 03:52 PM   #66
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Quote:
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EDIT: I had the images linked to where they showed up in the thread but they were GIANT like bigger than the thread screen so I just did them as links
yah I think that works better !
I just ordered a ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon a 2L one that I hope will help clean the ninja carbs and all the other stuff I have in my shop that needs cleaning...we'll see....it cost $85.00 with tax.
I've heard that using distilled vinegar in a ultrasonic cleaner works great
as it is a mild acid , so with it heated and ran for a few days it should dissolve anything.... including the carb itself if I leave it too long LOL we'll see.
......
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 03:54 PM   #67
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I was looking at an ultrasonic cleaner yesterday as a matter of fact!

I will definitely test it before reassembling ����

but unfortunately I can’t seem to find the screws for the bowl and the caps. I only have 4 screws. the carbs were never put back on the bike they were put in a box…. I guess I need to find some screws now
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 03:55 PM   #68
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You'll want to remove main jet from emulsion (holder) tube so you thoroughly scrub it on inside. Chads tend to hang on inside after being poked through from outside. Also micro soda-blast inside.



Make sure needle jets/collars are installed with proper orientation. End with internal taper faces needle.

And poke out bleed-hole in carb-venturi with wire where mixture-screw goes through. Due to taper, deposits get formed into cone shape and appears to flow when pilot is removed. But will block flow when installed.
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:01 PM   #69
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https://imgur.com/oPUgFlr

is it just me or do the main jets seem high? like they’re not screwed all the way in. that’s as far as they go with the needle collars in there
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:02 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by marshallsmith27 View Post
EDIT: I had the images linked to where they showed up in the thread but they were GIANT like bigger than the thread screen so I just did them as links
You can use [ resize ][ /resize ] tag outside of [ img][ /img] to resize image to screen width. Click on resize icon , then insert-image icon then paste your picture's URL

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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:05 PM   #71
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https://imgur.com/oPUgFlr

is it just me or do the main jets seem high? like they’re not screwed all the way in. that’s as far as they go with the needle collars in there
That's about right. Emulsion tubes don't screw all way down into carb-body. Should really remove main-jets from emulsion-tube to scrub out insides really well. Tonnes of crud usually hides in there.



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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:08 PM   #72
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the outside of your carbs looks like new...well done but it's the inside that counts with your wire probe try to poke down each hole as far as it will go
the problem is the passage way bends and you can't go around the corner , that is where sprey carb cleaner comes in at ... but the sprey carb cleaner doesn't do much at all... you just as well be using wd-40 ! at least that's my experience... spray into the hole and get a good flow out all the places it is supposed to exit ( usually 3 or 4 places ) the problem is one of those places will be restricted and the flow will either not be there or be greatly reduced
so you have to get that circuit clean without breaking off a wire in the passage way... if you do the carb is toast ! .... i straightened out a small spring and used it, it flexed around the corner well enough to get a large chunk of crap out of the left carb ....so I THOUGHT i had got the offending junk out... alas it wasn't ALL of it.......
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:11 PM   #73
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Emulsion tubes are spotless I used the tip cleaner in all the holes!!
@DannoXYZ wow I'm glad I know that now lol

So if yall think it looks fine then thats okay with me. I just wasnt sure because the Keihin carbs on my other bike screws all the way in. I dont know if thats an original emulsion tube or not. Theyre the ones from the bike when I bought it

I'm currently putting it back together....sans screws.......

Just readjusted the floats just in case. theyre 17.34mm now
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:16 PM   #74
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the outside of your carbs looks like new...well done but it's the inside that counts with your wire probe try to poke down each hole as far as it will go
the problem is the passage way bends and you can't go around the corner , that is where sprey carb cleaner comes in at ... but the sprey carb cleaner doesn't do much at all... you just as well be using wd-40 ! at least that's my experience... spray into the hole and get a good flow out all the places it is supposed to exit ( usually 3 or 4 places ) the problem is one of those places will be restricted and the flow will either not be there or be greatly reduced
so you have to get that circuit clean without breaking off a wire in the passage way... if you do the carb is toast ! .... i straightened out a small spring and used it, it flexed around the corner well enough to get a large chunk of crap out of the left carb ....so I THOUGHT i had got the offending junk out... alas it wasn't ALL of it.......
Bob.......
Yup, see deposits on bottom of float-bowls?


That's also inside internal passages and jets as well, clogging them up. Here's secret hidden passages in carb-body that needs to be scrubbed out with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner.

https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html

That's why ultrasonic soak and micro soda-blasting is needed. Modern carb-cleaner sprays can't dissolve dried petrol deposits any more due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Mechanical agitation, scrubbing and blasting is required.
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:17 PM   #75
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Emulsion tubes are spotless I used the tip cleaner in all the holes!!
They look clean on outside, but did you inspect them on inside? You'd be surprised at how much crud comes out when you remove main-jets and scrub out inside of emulsion tubes!
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:24 PM   #76
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I did take them fully apart and clean them with kerosene, gasoline and carb cleaner. Those deposits I cant seem to get rid of no matter what I use. the scuffs you see on the left float bowl is from a dremmel with a wire wheel. I dont know why those deposits do not want to come off. But yes the emulsion tubes are spotless inside and out. I made absolute sure this time so I dont have to keep double checking the small things over and over again!
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:33 PM   #77
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I did take them fully apart and clean them with kerosene, gasoline and carb cleaner. Those deposits I cant seem to get rid of no matter what I use. the scuffs you see on the left float bowl is from a dremmel with a wire wheel. I dont know why those deposits do not want to come off. But yes the emulsion tubes are spotless inside and out. I made absolute sure this time so I dont have to keep double checking the small things over and over again!
Yes, those deposits are also inside carb passages and jets. That's where ultrasonic soaking and micro soda-blasting comes in. Stuff you can reach, you'll want to scrub out with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. More active than solvents alone.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR98PRW/ - brushes

- Red Line SI-1
- Techron Concentrate Plus
- Gumout All-in-One
- 3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
- Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000

When your process returns clean bowls like this, you can be assured all internal passages and jets are equally clear:

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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:35 PM   #78
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now comes the task of finding the right length screws. I can never find them locally. Somehow I found socket head allen for my other bike I love those and I always know I get a secure hand tighten on those without over doing it. I am going to Birmingham tonight so I might stop by lowes or home depot.

Is there anything else yall recommend now?

I am going to find some PEA cleaner and clean them one more time. I mean I might as well since I need the screws

Edit: I have some some of those cleaners locally I will get one tonight if I can so I can scrub them with it!

So youre saying to use those cleaners as an actual cleaner instead of an additive?
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:42 PM   #79
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So youre saying to use those cleaners as an actual cleaner instead of an additive?
Yes, use them full-strength when scrubbing. Also 50/50 acetone/ATF mixture also works. Sometimes, I use all of them in sequence. What one doesn't dissolve, another mixture can usually work. Then repeat.
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Old January 3rd, 2022, 04:52 PM   #80
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Thats what I will do then! The only places where theres yellowing is the emulsion tubes and the bowls, nowhere else.

Correct me if I am wrong but 8x M4x12 (.7) on the top and 8x M4x14 (.7) on the bowls?
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