remove and reinstall carbs - stock airbox

[red]

Soo how far back do you need to get the stock airbox to get the carbs out?

I assume the carbs need to go out the left side once they have been just slightly popped out of the inlets and intake rubbers? There is no more room to gain?

Any tips on these little bits that seems to be absent from the vids (vids without the stock airbox) would be appreciated. I have the airbox loosened and just barely out of the carb intakes. Seems like a terribly tight spot.

[kkim]

http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...ll-re-jet.html

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=69403&

[red]

read those. Still a pain but thanks.

I will try adouglas tip about pulling the left inlet rubber completely out, that may help.

[kkim]

use some muscle... it will come out.

[red]

The carbs are out. Unless I did something incorrect, the airbox inlets never truly clear the carbs, or the inlet rubbers on the engine side. Sort of a jam fit and extraction.

I found nothing amiss in the carbs, they were clean inside and the pilots were clear. Floats lined up with each other and all vac and connections were tight.

So I reset the mixture screws to 2 3/4 and put a couple #4 shims under each needle and will proceed to re-assemble the puzzle.

Anyone having any other tips for reassembly would be appreciated.

(I see only FI bikes in my future...)

[kkim]

that depends... what was wrong with your bike?

[red]

The main issue is it seems terrible cold blooded and strangled down low. Take 10 minutes to idle well, or even run well without full choke. Takes 10-20 seconds to slowly return to idle. Almost unrideable for a new rider.

[kkim]

what year is your bike and has it been sitting for a prolonged period of time without being used?

[red]

It may turn out to be a binding/misadjusted throttle close cable not completely seated in its yoke. It seemed to be too loose and catching a bit.

The carbs look great - the bike is a used '10 with no miles on it to speak of. Had plenty of stabil in over the winter, but still got run anyway. The carbs and pilots were squeeky clean.

In process of getting it put back together and adjusting everything and will probably mount the tank and seat and see if there is any improvement.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by red

It may turn out to be a binding/misadjusted throttle close cable not completely seated in its yoke. It seemed to be too loose and catching a bit.

where exactly are you looking at? the throttle or carb end of the cables?

[red]

After pulling the carbs and going over them, when reinstalling everything it looks to me like the return/idle cable was not adjusted properly. It appears to have had enough slack to hang the barrel kittywampus (technical term) in the yoke on the carb end where the cable barrel would bind.

I have adjusted the slack out to where the idle cable has some slack but won't bind.

Of course I have not run it yet so I reserve the right to change my mind, or be schooled the the error of my thinking.

[kkim]

So, I'm assuming you're talking about this do-hickey that the throttle cables hook up to??

[red]

Yes, the idle/return cable side. Not the pull/open cable.

The metal barrel on the end of the idle cable would bind/catch in the yoke slot and would not sit squarely because it was too loose.

[red]

Happy day. The bike is running perfectly now, none of the problems it had before. Thanks Kim for the help and watchful eye.

I put a couple of #4 washers under each needle so I am going to take it for a spin and see what that does.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by red

Happy day. The bike is running perfectly now, none of the problems it had before.

[red]

All in all its a night & day transformation, especially down low. I had swapped front sprockets last year for a little more leg, but with a lousy throttle and off idle personality, it only made it worse. All the reviews I have read on these never complained that they were problems like this so it had to have been something misconfigured like that binding cable.

I think this must have been why the PO sold it as it was a crappy runner below 4k the day I picked it up. It must have been that way from the factory since I can see no evidence it was ever serviced (had 400 miles) and all the paint marks on the bolts weren't broken.

Runs like a dream now. Does not need much choke for long. Off to put the plastics back on.

[2fiddy]

Should i bring it back to the shop that did my 600 mile service? To my understanding this should have been checked and adjusted.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by 2fiddy

Should i bring it back to the shop that did my 600 mile service? To my understanding this should have been checked and adjusted.

what specifically are you referring to?

[Runeknight95]

Originally Posted by red

The carbs are out. Unless I did something incorrect, the airbox inlets never truly clear the carbs, or the inlet rubbers on the engine side. Sort of a jam fit and extraction.

I found nothing amiss in the carbs, they were clean inside and the pilots were clear. Floats lined up with each other and all vac and connections were tight.

So I reset the mixture screws to 2 3/4 and put a couple #4 shims under each needle and will proceed to re-assemble the puzzle.

Anyone having any other tips for reassembly would be appreciated.

(I see only FI bikes in my future...)

Getting the same issue and just wanted to confirm this was just how it was.
The service manual states to pull back the air box but it barely moves, is that incorrect as well?
Any pointer for getting the suckers back in, should they go into the engine side then slip to air box or vice versa etc?

[sLick415]

Originally Posted by Runeknight95

Getting the same issue and just wanted to confirm this was just how it was.
The service manual states to pull back the air box but it barely moves, is that incorrect as well?
Any pointer for getting the suckers back in, should they go into the engine side then slip to air box or vice versa etc?

The airbox is held in place by 2 bolts (top right towards the rear, bottom left towards the front). You should be able to move it back at least an inch after removing the battery.

These are my steps to removing the carbs:

1. Remove battery and its holder.
2. Remove both bolts holding down the airbox.
3. Loosen all clamps on the engine boots.
4. Pull airbox back as far as you can so carbs clear the boots.
5. Remove engine boots.
6. Loosen airbox boots.
7. Slide carbs forward to clear boots.
8. Slide carbs through the left side. (Bracket for idle adjuster must be removed)

Putting them back in is exactly in reverse.

[Runeknight95]

Originally Posted by sLick415

The airbox is held in place by 2 bolts (top right towards the rear, bottom left towards the front). You should be able to move it back at least an inch after removing the battery.

These are my steps to removing the carbs:

1. Remove battery and its holder.
2. Remove both bolts holding down the airbox.
3. Loosen all clamps on the engine boots.
4. Pull airbox back as far as you can so carbs clear the boots.
5. Remove engine boots.
6. Loosen airbox boots.
7. Slide carbs forward to clear boots.
8. Slide carbs through the left side. (Bracket for idle adjuster must be removed)

Putting them back in is exactly in reverse.

I did all that except 5. Did you find it easier to remove the engine boots, how did you do that while the carbs were still on there?.

and yea I just wanted to confirm that the air-box barely moves after i took out it's bolts.

Do you put the boots back on the carbs first then insert into the engine or put the boots on the engine and try to wiggle the carbs in?

THANKS so much man lol

[sLick415]

Originally Posted by Runeknight95

I did all that except 5. Did you find it easier to remove the engine boots, how did you do that while the carbs were still on there?. Only way that I found was to remove those boots. If you pull the airbox back with the carbs still attached to it, you should have enough room to remove them.

and yea I just wanted to confirm that the air-box barely moves after i took out it's bolts.

Do you put the boots back on the carbs first then insert into the engine or put the boots on the engine and try to wiggle the carbs in? Carbs go back in, attached to airbox, then engine boots. Like I said, exactly in reverse.

THANKS so much man lol

[Runeknight95]

Thanks a ton