DIY Valve Adjustment Video - Page 3

ninja250 · October 5th, 2011, 08:07 PM

Quote:

What sizes came out of the 636?

That is classified information.

lol j/k
The 636 took one 2.85 and mostly 2.90's from the ninjas so I believe some 2.95's and 3.0's came out.

gt_turbo · October 10th, 2011, 11:53 AM

approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.

k-os · October 10th, 2011, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt_turbo

approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.

We can have a shimming party. My bike's at 8,000 miles and I know it would be great to have them checked and adjusted before I sell it.

dubojr1 · October 10th, 2011, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt_turbo

approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.

If you leave the radiator and engine mount bolt assembly in place and granted you have the shims already.... this can be done in less than 4 hours. This makes for tighter working conditions but it's the way I did it.

gt_turbo · October 10th, 2011, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k-os

We can have a shimming party. My bike's at 8,000 miles and I know it would be great to have them checked and adjusted before I sell it.

sounds like a plan.

let me know where and when.

Vampyre · October 10th, 2011, 12:09 PM

You can order bulks of 30 shims in 6 different sizes here.

http://www.procycle.us/hotcams/valve_shims.htm

k-os · October 10th, 2011, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt_turbo

sounds like a plan.

let me know where and when.

If you get some shims I'll host at my house in Sheboygan!

gt_turbo · October 12th, 2011, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k-os

If you get some shims I'll host at my house in Sheboygan!

where is the best place to get shims of various sizes?

infinitethrill · October 26th, 2011, 07:32 PM

Just finished it up. Bike now fires up on the first turnover, rather than waiting. Yey!

Thanks for the video, was able to figure everything out (until a bolt stripped, lol)

IMG_0112.jpg

etiainen · October 27th, 2011, 06:40 PM

My 7500 is arriving very very soon(good because I'm happy I've reached it, sad because I don't feel like ripping the whole thing apart) Thanks for the DIY, I've been watching the vids, and I finally think I have a grip on what I need to do! Sometimes videos help a lot.

pop0tart · October 27th, 2011, 10:03 PM

Hi,

I am in the midst of getting new shims for my bike, and I marked the timing chain and the sprockets with a sharpie so that they should line up correctly, but I also managed to rub off some of the markings while removing the cams. In the manual, it shows lining up "EX" markings on the cam shaft sprockets while the engine is at "2 TDC" and counting chain links, but it was all a bit confusing. Can anyone offer any insight as I would like to do this as a redundancy. (I believe you count 60 or so links which should correspond with a mark on the second cam shaft sprocket) Thanks!

headshrink · October 27th, 2011, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pop0tart

Hi,

I am in the midst of getting new shims for my bike, and I marked the timing chain and the sprockets with a sharpie so that they should line up correctly, but I also managed to rub off some of the markings while removing the cams. In the manual, it shows lining up "EX" markings on the cam shaft sprockets while the engine is at "1 TDC" and counting chain links, but it was all a bit confusing. Can anyone offer any insight as I would like to do this as a redundancy. (I believe you count 60 or so links which should correspond with a mark on the second cam shaft sprocket) Thanks!

Follow this to the letter, and you should be fine. White and blue marks are denoted on the picture. The red dots represent the 36 pins.

etiainen · October 28th, 2011, 03:28 AM

Other than a micrometer and feeler gauges, is there anything else special I need to do this job? Small torque wrench?

headshrink · October 28th, 2011, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Small torque wrench?

Absolutely (in-Lbs)!

pop0tart · October 28th, 2011, 08:53 AM

Thanks, Bob!

etiainen · October 28th, 2011, 09:06 AM

Would this one suffice?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html

headshrink · October 28th, 2011, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Would this one suffice?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html

I would guess you could probably get away with it. I wouldn't count on it being super accurate, but for our uses, I would hope the acceptable margin for error is well WNL. If you wanted to be absolutely positive, you could spend a lot more, but honestly, I think that would only be worth it if you really like having nice tools, or use it a lot.

If you didn't want to spend a fortune, but wanted a nicer wrench, I'd check-out ebay. I bought a craftsman off ebay for pretty cheap. It does the job, but the locking ring is cracked through, so I have to hold it with electrical tape... it's kind of annoying.

etiainen · October 29th, 2011, 02:36 PM

Yeah, college student budget here

But right now I only have a ft-lb torque wrench I initially bought for oil changes, but has come in handy plenty of times. The tools I have now aren't horrible, they're just not top quality. Hoping once I have a budget for tools I can find good quality tools to do my work, and maybe actually organise them

headshrink · October 30th, 2011, 06:37 PM

In that case, I would buy it. It is a whole lot better than nothing.... and a Foot-Lb wrench.

etiainen · November 1st, 2011, 08:35 PM

Cool thanks!

Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?

Jono · November 1st, 2011, 09:42 PM

Wow after reading this thread I am glad I bought a pre gen! No shims involved. My valve adjustments are FREE. Of course I do them myself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?

On the pregens you are supposed to check the clearances every 6000 miles, I bought the bike with 7200 miles and the previous owner never adjusted the valves. I got around to adjusting them with 9000 miles on the bike. All the valves were tight but I got them to spec and it is running great! So I think if you are 500 miles past you check you should be okay. But check the clearances as soon as you can. You don't want to destroy your engine.

pop0tart · November 2nd, 2011, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Cool thanks!

Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?

It's bad. I looked into my crystal ball, and unfortunately, your valves are melting. It's pretty much destroyed.

It's your bike, check them or don't.

I baby mine and checked mine early to find that 5 were out, but you never know till you check, and nobody can guess whether you're fine @ 8,000 mi or destroying the thing.

alex.s · November 6th, 2011, 12:20 AM

Thanks KC. just did the valves. your videos were invaluable!

p.s. i over torqued one of the bolts holding the cam lobe cage down. pulled it in two. luckily managed to get it out and replaced it. nearly had a heart attack when it happened though!

pop0tart · November 6th, 2011, 10:41 AM

did you use a torque wrench? Those bolts were junk, anyway. I replaced every one with real ss ones that had a shape that looks like it was meant to fit into a socket.

hoodadooda · November 12th, 2011, 02:10 PM

Great videos! I'm on the verge of rolling over 7500 miles and I think I'm going to attempt this myself.
One question though:

There were two links posted for the shims
this one that has a wide range of sizes, but only 3 of each
http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve.../dp/B000WJWTM6

and this one which is a refill, but I would go with 2.70mm-2.95mm since that seems to be the popular range of needed shims
http://www.bikebandit.com/hot-cams-v...kage-7-48mm-od

Which one should I go with?

etiainen · November 22nd, 2011, 07:04 PM

Started taking things apart this afternoon, at engine mount removal. Didn't have too much time to work on it(because I slept way too much today

), but cooling system was more of a PITA, than I expected, but getting there and trying not to rush. Hopefully I can get my measurements all taken care of tomorrow. My dealer says they have our shim size in stock and that they do shim trading.

headshrink · November 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM

Regarding the cooling system: One thing I prefer about the Ninjette method of doing valves, over the Service Manual, is removing only the hoses. I find it quicker to leave the radiator, and unless you aren't careful with it, there is still enough room to work from the sides. The last time I actually did remove the radiator, I cross threaded the mounting point between the left engine mount and the radiator. It's on there, but if I ever had to remove that bolt, I would either have to replace the whole engine mount, or go through the trouble of re-taping it, and finding a larger bolt..... I'll just leave it were it is, thank you!

etiainen · November 23rd, 2011, 07:56 PM

Day Two complete, measurements are in....

Exhaust:

.18 .15 .15 .13

Inlet:

.18 .18 .18 .15

Went to the dealership and got the replacements, going to throw them in tomorrow. Shim replacement program means free shims!

The mechanic there said he's never done a valve job on a Ninja 250 before lol!

Everything's really tight in there! I'm at 7393 miles too! At least I found some time to get to it.

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 09:51 AM

Seems like my rag has gotten very small fibers on my cam chain? Any suggestion on how to clean it off? Or will it be ok?

headshrink · November 24th, 2011, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Seems like my rag has gotten very small fibers on my cam chain? Any suggestion on how to clean it off? Or will it be ok?

I'm assuming it was a paper rag.... I would think it would be fine. An oil change wouldn't hurt, after running it a minute, but I doubt it is necessary. If you think it is really bad, a picture would be helpful in giving an opinion with more confidence.

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 02:25 PM

Looks like all is lost now anyways. My dad insisted that he help and my brother and he broke one of the cam cover cap screws which is now stuck inside..about an inch or so...what can I do??????
Posted via Mobile Device

Alex · November 24th, 2011, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

what can I do??????

Wish them well on the bike they just bought from you, while you go get yourself a new one?

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 02:47 PM

I wish...lol

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 03:34 PM

Sad fact is that will never work(telling them to get me a new bike).....any possibility a bolt extractor tool or something would work(drilling inside)?

headshrink · November 24th, 2011, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Sad fact is that will never work(telling them to get me a new bike).....any possibility a bolt extractor tool or something would work(drilling inside)?

That is beyond my experience, but if you tried it, I would make a surgical drape, and be VERY careful nothing could get past the exposed area. I might even tape around that eposed part, which should only be as large as it needs to be. Removing the engine would make this even easier/safer to do..... I know that's a pain, sorry.

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 04:16 PM

Yeah.....:'(

I've already dedicated most of this week to this...I was really trying to take my time and be careful, and now everything's messed up:/

I have no idea even how to remove the engine:/ I'm also scared I'll mess up this delicate bolt thread extraction.

headshrink · November 24th, 2011, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

Yeah.....:'(

I've already dedicated most of this week to this...I was really trying to take my time and be careful, and now everything messed up:/

I have no idea even how to remove the engine:/ I'm also scared I'll mess up this delicate bolt thread extraction.

Engine removal isn't THAT difficult. You'll need 2 people, and a floor jack though. It is mainly just a bunch of little jobs before you remove the engine from the frame. It is actually in there by only 3 bolts. It is a little harder to bolt it back up, but not TOO hard. The SM has the procedures. There is always the dealler if you aren't comfortable with it....

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 04:46 PM

:'( I guess this riding season has come to a premature end...

I guess I could get a floor jack and do it, but won't that only just give me a little more room up top? Or can the piece that holds in the cam bolt be removed?

headshrink · November 24th, 2011, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

:'( I guess this riding season has come to a premature end...

I guess I could get a floor jack and do it, but won't that only just give me a little more room up top? Or can the piece that holds in the cam bolt be removed?

I pic would help, but if it is where I'm thinking, it cannot be removed.

etiainen · November 24th, 2011, 05:23 PM

It's the bolt of the camshaft cover, I don't have a pic right now, cause it's hard to move around in there.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...se_Caution.jpg

It's the red circle on the top left where the thread is stuck inside.

October 27th, 2011, 10:03 PM	#91
pop0tart ninjette.org member Name: Dash Location: PA Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): stolen :( Posts: 158	Hi, I am in the midst of getting new shims for my bike, and I marked the timing chain and the sprockets with a sharpie so that they should line up correctly, but I also managed to rub off some of the markings while removing the cams. In the manual, it shows lining up "EX" markings on the cam shaft sprockets while the engine is at "2 TDC" and counting chain links, but it was all a bit confusing. Can anyone offer any insight as I would like to do this as a redundancy. (I believe you count 60 or so links which should correspond with a mark on the second cam shaft sprocket) Thanks! Last futzed with by pop0tart; November 4th, 2011 at 10:21 AM. Reason: changed 1 tdc to 2 so nobody destroys bike after reading my post :)

October 30th, 2011, 06:37 PM	#99
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	In that case, I would buy it. It is a whole lot better than nothing.... and a Foot-Lb wrench. __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

November 6th, 2011, 12:20 AM	#103
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	Thanks KC. just did the valves. your videos were invaluable! p.s. i over torqued one of the bolts holding the cam lobe cage down. pulled it in two. luckily managed to get it out and replaced it. nearly had a heart attack when it happened though! __________________________________________________

November 22nd, 2011, 07:04 PM	#106
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Started taking things apart this afternoon, at engine mount removal. Didn't have too much time to work on it(because I slept way too much today), but cooling system was more of a PITA, than I expected, but getting there and trying not to rush. Hopefully I can get my measurements all taken care of tomorrow. My dealer says they have our shim size in stock and that they do shim trading.

November 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM	#107
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	Regarding the cooling system: One thing I prefer about the Ninjette method of doing valves, over the Service Manual, is removing only the hoses. I find it quicker to leave the radiator, and unless you aren't careful with it, there is still enough room to work from the sides. The last time I actually did remove the radiator, I cross threaded the mounting point between the left engine mount and the radiator. It's on there, but if I ever had to remove that bolt, I would either have to replace the whole engine mount, or go through the trouble of re-taping it, and finding a larger bolt..... I'll just leave it were it is, thank you! __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

October 10th, 2011, 11:53 AM	#82
gt_turbo ninjette.org sage Name: L Location: WI Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '09 250R, '13 CBR500R Posts: 709	approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.

October 10th, 2011, 12:09 PM	#86
Vampyre ninjette.org sage Name: Joseph Location: Winter Park, FL Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 250R Black, 2005 ZX-6R Blue Posts: 623	You can order bulks of 30 shims in 6 different sizes here. http://www.procycle.us/hotcams/valve_shims.htm

October 26th, 2011, 07:32 PM	#89
infinitethrill forever a n00b Name: Billy Location: moorpark, now the valley Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 ex250J, 78 GL1000, 01 ex250f, 99 VFR800FI Posts: 91	Just finished it up. Bike now fires up on the first turnover, rather than waiting. Yey! Thanks for the video, was able to figure everything out (until a bolt stripped, lol) IMG_0112.jpg

October 27th, 2011, 06:40 PM	#90
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	My 7500 is arriving very very soon(good because I'm happy I've reached it, sad because I don't feel like ripping the whole thing apart) Thanks for the DIY, I've been watching the vids, and I finally think I have a grip on what I need to do! Sometimes videos help a lot.

October 28th, 2011, 03:28 AM	#93
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Other than a micrometer and feeler gauges, is there anything else special I need to do this job? Small torque wrench?

October 28th, 2011, 08:53 AM	#95
pop0tart ninjette.org member Name: Dash Location: PA Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): stolen :( Posts: 158	Thanks, Bob!

October 28th, 2011, 09:06 AM	#96
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Would this one suffice? http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html

October 29th, 2011, 02:36 PM	#98
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Yeah, college student budget here But right now I only have a ft-lb torque wrench I initially bought for oil changes, but has come in handy plenty of times. The tools I have now aren't horrible, they're just not top quality. Hoping once I have a budget for tools I can find good quality tools to do my work, and maybe actually organise them

November 1st, 2011, 08:35 PM	#100
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Cool thanks! Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?

November 6th, 2011, 10:41 AM	#104
pop0tart ninjette.org member Name: Dash Location: PA Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): stolen :( Posts: 158	did you use a torque wrench? Those bolts were junk, anyway. I replaced every one with real ss ones that had a shape that looks like it was meant to fit into a socket.

November 12th, 2011, 02:10 PM	#105
hoodadooda MotorbikeLuv Name: Aaron Location: Henrico, VA Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250 (sold), 2006 Daytona 675 in Tornado Red (sold), 2007 Ninja 650 Posts: 272	Great videos! I'm on the verge of rolling over 7500 miles and I think I'm going to attempt this myself. One question though: There were two links posted for the shims this one that has a wide range of sizes, but only 3 of each http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve.../dp/B000WJWTM6 and this one which is a refill, but I would go with 2.70mm-2.95mm since that seems to be the popular range of needed shims http://www.bikebandit.com/hot-cams-v...kage-7-48mm-od Which one should I go with?

November 23rd, 2011, 07:56 PM	#108
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Day Two complete, measurements are in.... Exhaust: .18 .15 .15 .13 Inlet: .18 .18 .18 .15 Went to the dealership and got the replacements, going to throw them in tomorrow. Shim replacement program means free shims! The mechanic there said he's never done a valve job on a Ninja 250 before lol! Everything's really tight in there! I'm at 7393 miles too! At least I found some time to get to it.

November 24th, 2011, 09:51 AM	#109
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Seems like my rag has gotten very small fibers on my cam chain? Any suggestion on how to clean it off? Or will it be ok?

November 24th, 2011, 02:25 PM	#111
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Looks like all is lost now anyways. My dad insisted that he help and my brother and he broke one of the cam cover cap screws which is now stuck inside..about an inch or so...what can I do?????? Posted via Mobile Device

November 24th, 2011, 02:47 PM	#113
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	I wish...lol

November 24th, 2011, 03:34 PM	#114
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Sad fact is that will never work(telling them to get me a new bike).....any possibility a bolt extractor tool or something would work(drilling inside)?

November 24th, 2011, 04:16 PM	#116
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Yeah.....:'( I've already dedicated most of this week to this...I was really trying to take my time and be careful, and now everything's messed up:/ I have no idea even how to remove the engine:/ I'm also scared I'll mess up this delicate bolt thread extraction.

November 24th, 2011, 04:46 PM	#118
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	:'( I guess this riding season has come to a premature end... I guess I could get a floor jack and do it, but won't that only just give me a little more room up top? Or can the piece that holds in the cam bolt be removed?

November 24th, 2011, 05:23 PM	#120
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	It's the bolt of the camshaft cover, I don't have a pic right now, cause it's hard to move around in there. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...se_Caution.jpg It's the red circle on the top left where the thread is stuck inside.

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