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Old July 16th, 2013, 03:42 PM   #1
Runeknight95
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Should I replace the petcock if it leaks while disconnected?

Set it to "on" and it continues to free flow fuel.
Should I buy a new one, does it have any affect when its all plugged in?

My thinking is yes because it would allow fuel to run and flood the carbs even while it is off?
Can I replace just the petock and not the entire tank?
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Old July 16th, 2013, 05:02 PM   #2
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Yep, you should rebuild or replace the petcock. No need to replace the tank.
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Old July 16th, 2013, 06:11 PM   #3
Runeknight95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red View Post
Soo how far back do you need to get the stock airbox to get the carbs out?

I assume the carbs need to go out the left side once they have been just slightly popped out of the inlets and intake rubbers? There is no more room to gain?

Any tips on these little bits that seems to be absent from the vids (vids without the stock airbox) would be appreciated. I have the airbox loosened and just barely out of the carb intakes. Seems like a terribly tight spot.
Does any one have tips on how far it goes back or should go back?

Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith12 View Post
Yep, you should rebuild or replace the petcock. No need to replace the tank.
Do you know what parts i would need if i just rebuilt it? http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ANK/parts.html
vs buying a new one?
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Old July 16th, 2013, 06:47 PM   #4
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What I did was take the entire petcock apart, cleaned everything, bend the spring washer so it was springy again and put it back together. No more leaks.
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Old July 16th, 2013, 07:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sLick415 View Post
What I did was take the entire petcock apart, cleaned everything, bend the spring washer so it was springy again and put it back together. No more leaks.
Thanks you may have saved me 40 bucks we shall see
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Old July 17th, 2013, 03:17 PM   #6
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In the image below, the spring was not pushing the diaphragm close enough to close the pet cock. I just stretched the spring (on the rt hand side of the picture) and no more leak!

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Old July 17th, 2013, 03:55 PM   #7
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Sometimes you get lucky with a fix....other times not. $60 to replace.
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Old July 17th, 2013, 05:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
Sometimes you get lucky with a fix....other times not. $60 to replace.


Yea man they don't sell just the spring either, you can buy the diaphragm and other parts separate. Id look in a hard wares store for a spring.





2008+ ninja 250 Petcock repair fix rebuild replacement
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Old March 8th, 2014, 10:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runeknight95 View Post
In the image below, the spring was not pushing the diaphragm close enough to close the pet cock. I just stretched the spring (on the rt hand side of the picture) and no more leak!
Worked for me too. Thanks for the pics and instructions!!!
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Old April 29th, 2014, 12:30 PM   #10
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Worked for me too. Thanks for the pics and instructions!!!
glad i could help

Mine still is holding as well!
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Old April 29th, 2014, 12:31 PM   #11
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I bought a brand new one that leaked within 3 months. If the above works I will be more than delighted. The stock ones suck.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 11:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
I bought a brand new one that leaked within 3 months. If the above works I will be more than delighted. The stock ones suck.
Any update?
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 01:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
I bought a brand new one that leaked within 3 months. If the above works I will be more than delighted. The stock ones suck.
When did you buy this?

I ask because my original one had what looked like a deformed Teflon ring inside that the O-ring could not seal against (portion was missing). Others have found the same problem in theirs. Neither the ring nor the part it is permanently attached to are replaceable without buying a whole petcock.

I ordered a new one and it does not have that Teflon-looking ring thing at all. I guess they revised it. The thought crossed my mind that it was the same defect (completely missing as opposed to a portion missing), but it does seem to work (stopped the leaking).

The thing is, mine was NOS from perhaps a couple years ago, so it's hard to pinpoint when they revised it. I bought it from an eBay seller who never opened it. Even then, the fuel filter part was broken from being bent in the package (thanks, Kawasaki ). It, too, doesn't appear to be replaceable.

Amazon has a ton of petcocks and repair kits that say they fit the J-bike but I doubt the petcocks fit and the repair kits probably do not fix the units with the deformed Teflon ring problem. I've had these links in my Amazon cart for the last couple months:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1TFBK3C7LO58P
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3TGC5XRRCX4P2

Also, this one looks like a generic with reserve, which may work:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=APWEXLRBMNT4U

You'd probably have to plug the vacuum line, since it seems to speed up the engine when disconnected (unless that's just me?).

Last futzed with by CZroe; July 2nd, 2014 at 07:54 PM.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 03:12 PM   #14
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Bought it 1.5 years ago. Tried this and it still leaks.

Edit: I got it from kawasaki.

Last futzed with by mgentz; July 2nd, 2014 at 04:48 PM.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 03:19 PM   #15
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A leaking peacock will fill your crankcase with fuel leak out on the garage floor and burn down the house. I would replace it.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 03:40 PM   #16
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I keep my petcock on the prime position all the time with the cr33 carbs. Thats what sudco recommended. I put in the on position sometimes.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 04:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runeknight95 View Post
In the image below, the spring was not pushing the diaphragm close enough to close the pet cock. I just stretched the spring (on the rt hand side of the picture) and no more leak!

If you or another member could post a how-to for this, I'm sure the community would appreciate it greatly.
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Old September 18th, 2014, 10:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melfice View Post
If you or another member could post a how-to for this, I'm sure the community would appreciate it greatly.
Removing the gas tank instructions are already on the site.
From there its 2 bolts to remove the petcock, and my "DIY" is already here saying sometimes you can fix the slow leak possibly by stretching that spring in the picture
I understand maybe some of the confusion comes from not knowing how to separate the petcock I do not recall specifics and I wont be removing mine for a while to come. If you look at the picture though you can see how the diaphragm lays after it was pulled apart as well as the other parts.
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Old September 18th, 2014, 11:01 AM   #19
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Here's my tale with pics and analysis of the leaking issue:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=44054

On the 08, with its vacuum-operated petcock, a leak won't dump gas all over your garage, nor will it fill the crankcase with fuel. There's no affect on bike operation....

... IF your float seals are in good shape. Gas flows out of the tank into the bowls, floats rise until they seal the fuel line. Gas gets drawn out of the bowls by engine operation, floats fall, gas flows. Simple. If the float seals leak AND the petcock won't shut off, well, then you really do have a problem.

It's also an issue if you have to take your tank off for some reason. Then it's a Bad Thing. But for normal riding around, nah.

So basically the leak just disables a safety feature, namely the automatic shutoff at the valve when the engine stops running.

I only discovered it when I tried to drain the bowls for winter storage. Naturally, fuel just kept flowing and flowing....


I replaced mine, because the teflon bit was shredded. Also, the black rubber gasket is SUPER flimsy.

Bottom line: Leaking fuel sucks. This is a basic safety issue. It will fail, even if you've McGyvered it. Recommend replacement.
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Old September 18th, 2014, 02:10 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Here's my tale with pics and analysis of the leaking issue:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=44054

On the 08, with its vacuum-operated petcock, a leak won't dump gas all over your garage, nor will it fill the crankcase with fuel. There's no affect on bike operation....

... IF your float seals are in good shape. Gas flows out of the tank into the bowls, floats rise until they seal the fuel line. Gas gets drawn out of the bowls by engine operation, floats fall, gas flows. Simple. If the float seals leak AND the petcock won't shut off, well, then you really do have a problem.

It's also an issue if you have to take your tank off for some reason. Then it's a Bad Thing. But for normal riding around, nah.

So basically the leak just disables a safety feature, namely the automatic shutoff at the valve when the engine stops running.

I only discovered it when I tried to drain the bowls for winter storage. Naturally, fuel just kept flowing and flowing....


I replaced mine, because the teflon bit was shredded. Also, the black rubber gasket is SUPER flimsy.

Bottom line: Leaking fuel sucks. This is a basic safety issue. It will fail, even if you've McGyvered it. Recommend replacement.
I feel a few things are incorrect, the leaking gas floods the carbs and affects operation to some extent
Also its been a over a year and still the petcock still has not flooded my carbs. And whose to say how long the next spring will last, and you cant even buy the spring you need to buy the entire unit.

After reading your thread I'm assuming you're arguing which piece is actually failing, the spring or the Teflon sealing material and that stretching the spring was an incorrect fix? If the vacuum is strong enough to open against this spring, and it is create a stronger seal against that Teflon part you had a problem with, I don't see the issue.
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Old August 20th, 2022, 01:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runeknight95 View Post
I feel a few things are incorrect, the leaking gas floods the carbs and affects operation to some extent
Also its been a over a year and still the petcock still has not flooded my carbs. And whose to say how long the next spring will last, and you cant even buy the spring you need to buy the entire unit.

After reading your thread I'm assuming you're arguing which piece is actually failing, the spring or the Teflon sealing material and that stretching the spring was an incorrect fix? If the vacuum is strong enough to open against this spring, and it is create a stronger seal against that Teflon part you had a problem with, I don't see the issue.
Because the Teflon ring is incomplete: C-shaped instead of O-shaped. You canít seal against a ring when it isnít even a ring anymore.

Like you, I replaced mine and it appeared to be working. Even with the known-bad one, my carbs never appeared to be flooded but my oils did smell like gas. After several years and ZERO miles on the new petcock I found the tank completely empty. I suspect you donít find flooded carbs because it makes its way out and into the cylinders without obviously overflowing the carbs. If you drain them first youíd never know.
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