2008 Ninja 250r chain snapped

[Lap202]

So The bike I bought a month ago has continued to kick my ass -.-

Today I rode about 2 hours, a mile from home going 55 my chain snapped. From what I can remember, I pulled the clutch in and coasted to the side. Chain seemed to have pretty much fallen off cleanly. And slid behind me (recovered from road). To top it off in my flustered stop I dropped the bike for the first time, or more set it down on the right side. Side fairing isn't flush to the headlight fairings, but I can fix that I'm hoping.

The bike was off and I can't remember if it was me hitting the kill switch or if the bike killed itself.

1. Where do I need to look for damage on the bike (if any exists)

2. Can I safely turn the engine over with chain completely gone to ensure the bike runs.

3. What am I looking at for costs to get the bike chain replaced. Dirt poor right now, but don't want to end my riding season after 1 month (with a week of down time for speedo replacement)

4. Any other advice to ensure my bike gets going. Who would have guessed it be such a money pitt!

[JohnnyBravo]

At least it was a clean break... I've heard some nasty stories that started with a broken chain.

Your fairing should be fine, should just need to undo it and put it back.

It doesn't sound like you should have any front sprocket issue, but I'd give it a look over before I crank it up. You don't need a chain to crank the engine.


Money pit... Folks around here have put over 10k into their bikes ) you haven't even started modding yet, or getting ready for the track, or or or
Welcome to your new addiction

I just saw chains for around $30... Some cheaper some more expensive

[Lap202]

Quick question, if I were to paint a chain since it's off, would there be possible lubrication problems. (I spray automotive paint for a living)

Suppose I could buy 1 pre painted, but I'm thinking gold metallics ;P

[JohnnyBravo]

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=130090

May find some of this helpful

[JohnnyBravo]

Originally Posted by Lap202

Quick question, if I were to paint a chain since it's off, would there be possible lubrication problems. (I spray automotive paint for a living)

Suppose I could buy 1 pre painted, but I'm thinking gold metallics ;P

You can buy gold chains, or colored chains easy and cheap enough... I'd go with a rivet master link, but plenty of folks think clipon do just fine


I can't tell you how they get the chains colored... Never had one; I can tell you I wouldn't personally paint my chain.
Yes I would say you'd have lube problems if you painted it, unless you wanted to spend all sorts of prep time on it... I don't think it's worth the time

[Z1R rider]

Chain on the cheap....go to your local farm supply store (Runnings) and get some #50 roller chain, count the links in the stock chain and they should cut it to length for you (around $15 or $20). It's a little bit wider than stock, but it's the same pitch and works just fine on the Ninjas. It doesn't have O-rings so you HAVE to lube it a lot more than the stock chain (every tankfull of gas). I have run clipped connector linked chains for many miles and I've never seen one fail unless it was put on backwards, and then only on off road bikes, just be sure you get it seated properly.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Lap202

2. Can I safely turn the engine over with chain completely gone to ensure the bike runs.

The engine may be still in gear.
If so, you will need to pull the clutch in, with the side stand up or down to get it started up.

For replacing the chain, you will need the front sprocket to freely turn.
In order to switch to Neutral for the above reason, you may need to rotate the small sprocket by hand while manipulating the shifting lever.

If you paint the O-rings of the new chain, they may deteriorate soon, letting lubricant out.
Please, read these:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=133019

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_re..._I_consider%3F

With proper lubrication, a non-o-ring chain will last you the rest of the season and more and will be less expensive than an o-ring chain.

Use a simple clip link for non-o-ring chains and riveted link for the o-ring type.
O-ring chain + clip link is not an ideal combination and may have been the reason of your mishap.

[Triple Jim]

A friend of mine made this video that shows how he installs the master link clips on his chains. He races, and had found the method to work for him. I now use the method too. I'm not trying to convince anyone to do this, just presenting it as what I think is an improvement to using clip type master links.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlTMKMk2CIo

[shift957]

Chains don't normally just snap for no good reason. I'd be trying to understand why it happened in the first place. Typically, it's lack of lubrication. Excessive wear is also a possibility, usually caused by age and/or lack of lubrication.

If your front or rear sprockets are showing any signs of wear (sharked teeth, uneven edging on the teeth, etc...) you need to replace the sprockets with the chain. Typically, it's just smarter to replace the chain and sprockets together so they can wear together. Putting a new chain on old sprockets just wears the chain out faster.

I had a friend who didn't care for his chain. I could hear his chain following him on my bike 10+ feet behind him. I mentioned it to him and he just laughed it off like no biggie. Sadly, a week later on a group ride, he was accelerating through a fast sweeper corner and witnesses say the bike oddly "bucked" him off. No lowside or highside. He flew into an oncoming car and was killed. Hearing how his crash happened and knowing his chain was shot, I'm certain his chain broke under acceleration and jammed up something causing the crash. He was about 20 years old and getting ready to sell the bike to pay for school. That was about 10 years ago.

I would replace not just the chain, but the sprockets too. Post up a pick of the sprockets if you want. I'd be curious to see how they look.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by shift957

Post up a pick of the sprockets if you want. I'd be curious to see how they look.

It would also be good to see a closeup photo of the part of the chain that broke. It might help figure out why it broke. I would suspect the master link, but it could be somewhere else.

[Lap202]

Not mechanically inlined, but I'm sure the link that went was the masterlink.

[RacinNinja]

The kinked links in the chain indicate it needed lube or was bad. Needed some serious TLC.

[Triple Jim]

Since the master link is missing, it's likely the clip came off and the link then came out. The clip needs to be put on in the right direction, so the closed end leads the open end when turning. The clip also needs to be correctly seated in the pin grooves, and as in the video I posted the link to, using some good sealer goop on it reduces the chance it can pop out of place.

Of course what RacinNinja said is true, that chain was being neglected. O-ring and X-ring chains have sealed inner joints, but are not maintenance free, and can kill you if they break and lock the rear wheel at the wrong time, like on a right curve with oncoming traffic.

[CrazyCanuckGoat]

My 2001 and 2012 both never had "masterlinks" or clips on the factory original chain which may be the case here. Then again, the mileage was never stated or if the chain had been replaced at one point already.

Chain looks dry and neglected. Consider yourself lucky there was no wheel lock up or any cracked cases.

[empire00]

the OEM chain is one piece no masterlink.