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Old March 9th, 2017, 08:40 PM   #1
malignity
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Another carb issue. Missing hose?

Hey guys, first post. Been browsing a lot though and got a ton of help from the forum thus far.

Got a 2010 ninja from a friend. 9100 miles. Took it on trade. Bike ran great supposedly when it sat 3 years ago.

I tore apart the carbs, cleaned them (for real) and got 3 year old stone hard varnish out of the left pilot and bowls. The rest were pretty good.

Long story short, figured out the carbs were hooked up wrong previously due to the diagrams on this page, and the bike would immediately die after giving it gas, but would idle just fine. Hooked them up right and it would finally rev, but if I cracked the throttle instead of rolling slowly it would still die. I did the whole hide and seek game with starting fluid spraying around in various areas to find the leak. I rev uncontrollably when spraying between the carbs. I noticed there's a spring connecting them above the sync linkage, and appears to be a hose connection that goes between them, but no hose. My guess is there's supposed to be a hose inside that spring connecting them as that's exactly where I'd spray and it would rev to the moon with starting fluid. I didn't touch anything else other than rerouting the right way.

Can anyone verify there's supposed to be a hose there? She's pretty close it seems but screams when starting fluid is sprayed there. Wondering also if I'll need to sync after. I just pulled the jets out through the bowl and cleaned them and the various oorts, nothing else in regards to setting changes. Also fresh gas, a can of B-12 chem tool (my favored over Seafoam) and new cold weather plugs according to manual.

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about, between the green lines. Thanks!

Last futzed with by malignity; March 10th, 2017 at 07:24 AM.
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Old March 10th, 2017, 09:57 AM   #2
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the *solid* nipple cast into the carb body (rh side on your photo) stabilizes the position of the "choke" return spring...it is not a vacuum fitting...there is no hose intended there.

I'd guess your start fluid spray is entering the intake stream via an open vent rail (no hose present) though I can't tell from the photo if its open to atmosphere (which is ok)

If the vent rail HAS the long opaque, brown hose present...then your spray is entering
the stream somewhere else (vac hose or fitting between the carbs?) Again, conjecture as I'm limited by view of photo.

The synch screw is Keihin factory intact, "sealed" with the yellow paint, I'd suggest leaving it alone, as the throttle plates are matched....until such a time as synching with a manometer is actually called for.

Edited to add: suggest a valve clearance check...critical for these things to run correctly, doubtful its ever been done.
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Old March 10th, 2017, 10:16 AM   #3
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I learned the importance of accurate valve clearances on this engine shortly after I bought my 250. Starting was finicky and idle speed was very unstable until it warmed up fully. After setting them, it was like a different engine, easy to start and settling to a stable idle in less than 30 seconds. You can chase carb problems forever if the valves aren't quite closing all the way.
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Old March 10th, 2017, 10:58 AM   #4
malignity
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I've only adjusted valves on one bike before, a 2002 KTM 400 EXC. Hopefully I can find a YouTube video and it's not overly difficult. I don't have shims or anything if they're needed.

The hose between the carbs may be leaking though, if it's even present. I'm inclined to think it's either not there or it's cracked, but I haven't pulled them apart yet to see because I'm not exactly sure where it's located yet. When I spray the area between the sync screw we get some revving so something there I think has a leak.

I'm not sure where the open vent rails are yet, so I'm kind of just guessing at this point. I work mostly on two stroke dirt bikes so this is a bit more complex than what I normally dive into.
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Old March 10th, 2017, 12:09 PM   #5
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Each carb bowl fuel reservoir area is vented, both cojoined by a single rail....the upper black rail between them. Centered on the rail a single smooth hose barb where the single vent hose attaches and routes backwards..to...I forget where.
DO NOT cap off the rail barb, must be open to atmosphere...with or without the long hose but ALWAYS free to atmosphere.

There are actually 2 vacuum hoses between the carbs and culminate at the top of the decel valve, 1 larger than the other.

Requiring tricky splitting to access, you want to make sure there are no cracks, breaks and are *tight* on their respective barbs = no leakage.

Before splitting, would be in your best interests to have 2 new orings for the fuel rail (the lower rail) IN HAND.
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Old April 1st, 2017, 06:03 PM   #6
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