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Old July 13th, 2020, 11:21 AM   #1
MauR
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1988 CDI Install / Question

Hello All!!!

Yesterday I installed an '88 CDI on my bike using the multiple DIY here.

The reason I'm writing is because I don't notice any "failure" in the security systems (SideStand, Neutral Switch, Clutch lever) so I would like to ask how is the failure mentioned in the DIY noted.

So far:

SideStand DOWN, Clutch relesed, Neutral on = START
SideStand UP, Clutch relesed, Neutral on = START

SideStand DOWN, Clutch depressed, Neutral off = START
SideStand DOWN, Clutch released, Neutral off = NO START

Running
SideStand DOWN, Clutch depressed, Getting into gear = DEAD
SideStand UP, Clutch depressed, Getting into gear = Keeps RUNNING

Is there any other combination I should try to make sure every thing is working and if I make a mistake I will be safe??

Thanks in advance
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Old July 13th, 2020, 06:01 PM   #2
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That looks about right.
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Old July 13th, 2020, 06:27 PM   #3
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That looks about right.
Thank you so much!!!!!
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Old July 15th, 2020, 10:44 PM   #4
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So any feedback on this mod?
Which method did you use?
Is there performance improvement?

One of deficiencies on this bike is 2D ignition map based on RPM only. This ends up sacrificing partial-throttle response in low-end and mid-range. Ignition is mapped for WOT at each RPM.

With 3D mapping using LOAD x RPM, you can add additional 10-degrees more advance under partial-throttle/mid-range for much peppier responsiveness.
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Old July 16th, 2020, 04:35 PM   #5
MauR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
So any feedback on this mod?
Which method did you use?
Is there performance improvement?

One of deficiencies on this bike is 2D ignition map based on RPM only. This ends up sacrificing partial-throttle response in low-end and mid-range. Ignition is mapped for WOT at each RPM.

With 3D mapping using LOAD x RPM, you can add additional 10-degrees more advance under partial-throttle/mid-range for much peppier responsiveness.
I haven't ridden it yet...

I did a semi plug and play connector. On the CDI i used individual terminals and on the motorcycle side I used a OEM connector. So original harness is intact and I can remove 88 Cdi and install 2009 CDI in just a few minutes.

Hopefully it works better... I am not a WOT rider but some more responsiveness at mi-range would be great.

I will report as soon as I take her out.
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Old July 20th, 2020, 09:39 AM   #6
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Well...

Finally I took my bike out today and the feeling is great... it is more responsive around 7-8k RPM even without downshifting.

I am using 15/44 sprockets to keep my RPMs lower when cruising and it didn't responded as it does now... It was a good change.

I have had that CDI stored for several months and it is good to have it finally installed.

And, as I mentioned, I think every safety feature is working without any modification.
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Old July 20th, 2020, 10:38 AM   #7
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I'm glad you're up and running. Just for reference, these are not CDI units, they are transistor switched ignition units. I guess "ignition module" would be a way to refer to them. The manual calls it an ignitor.
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Old July 20th, 2020, 11:33 AM   #8
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I'm glad you're up and running. Just for reference, these are not CDI units, they are transistor switched ignition units. I guess "ignition module" would be a way to refer to them. The manual calls it an ignitor.
Thanks!!!

I found this page which illustrates how a CDI and a TCI works.

https://www.shindengen.com/products/...orcycle/dccdi/
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Old July 20th, 2020, 11:27 PM   #9
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Transistor ignition is also known as inductive ignition due to type of coil used. CDI was all the rage back in '80s when aftermarket programmable EFI systems because more accessible. One of marketing hype with CDI was "higher voltage", but that doesn't automatically translate into better ignition.

Main problem with CDI is short duration. A lot of times, it'll ignite mixture, which then goes out. One of solutions was to fire multiple-sparks and MSD was born. It's all fixes and crutches for an ineffective system really.

Modern hot-rodding tends towards high-capacity inductance coils (measured in milli-henry). These coils store a lot of charge and when dumped through plugs, it generates a hot spark that lasts much, much longer than CDI, and ensures you have ignition and complete combustion.

With advent of COP-coil on plugs, even higher capacity charge per cylinder can be delivered because coil has entire 720-degrees charging time for just one cylinder. Rather than having reduced charge due to sharing with all cylinders.
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Old July 21st, 2020, 05:31 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
With advent of COP-coil on plugs, even higher capacity charge per cylinder can be delivered because coil has entire 720-degrees charging time for just one cylinder. Rather than having reduced charge due to sharing with all cylinders.
Many cars have individual coils for each cylinder, but in a "pack" rather than on each plug. The advantage to "coil on plug" is that there are no high voltage wires to buy and maintain. That's why I don't see any major advantage to converting to COP on a Ninja 250.
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Old July 21st, 2020, 07:48 AM   #11
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Yup kinda like this:



Anything less than 4-cylinders won't see any benefits of individual coils as 180-degrees of dwell (charging) time is sufficient. It's when you get into high-revving 8+ cylinder engines that you may run into weak spark due to not enough charging time.

Also getting rid of distributor and its points & rotors that wear out really simplifies maintenance.
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Old July 21st, 2020, 07:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MauR View Post
And, as I mentioned, I think every safety feature is working without any modification.
Safety features such as kickstand detection and neutral switch are incorporated into starter circuit. Shouldn't change when you swap ignitor boxes.

Only difference was '94+ boxes detected 100-ohm resistor in ignition-switch. Apparently won't turn run if it doesn't see resistor. This is an anti-theft measure.
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