Turn Signal Indicator Issues

menikmati · December 7th, 2011, 02:09 AM

I've tested my turn signals and they both are operating correctly except for the fact that when I engage my left turn signal, the indicator on the gauge cluster does not blink. However, everything is fine when I signal to the right.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to look for?

jmcblitz · December 7th, 2011, 02:50 AM

when you say "tested your turn signals", what do you mean by that?
Could be because one of the bulbs of your turn signals burned out (remember to check both front and rear), or maybe the fuse for left turn signals was fried (fuse box is under your seat, you have to take off some fairings to get to it).

menikmati · December 7th, 2011, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmcblitz

when you say "tested your turn signals", what do you mean by that?
Could be because one of the bulbs of your turn signals burned out (remember to check both front and rear), or maybe the fuse for left turn signals was fried (fuse box is under your seat, you have to take off some fairings to get to it).

Both the front and the rear signals work, it's just that the indicator on the gauge cluster only works when I'm indicating to the Right.

menikmati · December 10th, 2011, 10:40 PM

Fixed the indicator problem by doing the diode mod.

Now, I snipped a red wire that went to a bundled red/black wire. I "reconnected" it by twisting some of the bare wire together and now my background lights for the tachometer, speedometer, and fuel gauge don't work, along with the tail and brake lights. However, the fuel pressure, neutral, turn signal, and temperature lights all work.

I've trained to dissect the wiring diagram on the forum and I think that red/black wire bundle is what supplies power for the above problems, hopefully by establishing a better connection on the wire I previously cut will return everything back to normal.

menikmati · December 11th, 2011, 09:56 PM

When taking the seat off today, I noticed the fuse box and decided to check it out and found that the fuse marked TAILS was blown. I replaced that fuse and when I turned the bike on it keeps on blowing that fuse.

I have the HID bulbs unplugged from their ballasts and both front turn signals disconnected.

Do you think the diode mode could be the culprit? I bought 1N4004 rectifier diodes if that helps any.

Going to be check my wiring for the diodes tomorrow. Would it be possible that it's blowing the fuse even when none of the turn signals are on when I turn the key?

jonthechron · December 12th, 2011, 01:29 AM

The 1N4004 is rated for only 1A, are you using stock signals? If so stock signals draw around 2A including the the dash light (3.4w)

menikmati · December 12th, 2011, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonthechron

The 1N4004 is rated for only 1A, are you using stock signals? If so stock signals draw around 2A including the the dash light (3.4w)

I have stock front signals and LED rears, so I could possibly be roasting the circuit by having improper diodes? If so, I'll pick up some 3A barrel diodes tomorrow.

Also, I was blowing the fuses with the fairings off so the front turn signals weren't connected.

Would a faulty ground connection be the cause of blowing a fuse? I'm suspecting that the ground coming from the turn signal indicator bulb could be a bad soldering job, I'm bringing my multimeter tomorrow to test continuity.

jonthechron · December 12th, 2011, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by menikmati

I have stock front signals and LED rears, so I could possibly be roasting the circuit by having improper diodes? If so, I'll pick up some 3A barrel diodes tomorrow.

Also, I was blowing the fuses with the fairings off so the front turn signals weren't connected.

Would a faulty ground connection be the cause of blowing a fuse? I'm suspecting that the ground coming from the turn signal indicator bulb could be a bad soldering job, I'm bringing my multimeter tomorrow to test continuity.

You should definitely test for continuity, a faulty ground would blow the fuse, the bulb wouldn't light up, I'm pretty sure only a short to ground can directly burn that fuse, how did you wire up the LEDs in back?

Take a look at my wiring diagram if you need what connects to what,
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=35886

menikmati · December 12th, 2011, 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonthechron

You should definitely test for continuity, a faulty ground would blow the fuse, the bulb wouldn't light up, I'm pretty sure only a short to ground can directly burn that fuse, how did you wire up the LEDs in back?

Take a look at my wiring diagram if you need what connects to what,
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=35886

I'm not quite sure since it was done by the previous owner. The short story is that everything was fine except for the turn signal indicator only in one direction due to a polarized LED, so I did the diode mod to fix it and now I keep on blowing the fuse for the taillight. The thing is that the turn signal indicator bulb does light up and works perfectly, just my "meter lights" for the tach, speedo and fuel gauge and the tail light are screwed somehow. If the turn signal indicator works fine, does that rule out the problem lying in the diodes/additional ground that I created?

I've been staring at your wiring diagram for the past couple of days to try to troubleshoot it, wish I had a program that was Mac compatible to highlight the circuit instead of constantly following lines. But it is of great help, thanks.

My plan of attack tomorrow is to check the continuity of the ground I created from the diode mod, test the system with the diode mod removed, and to identify the one wire (all that I know is that it's red and that it may possibly be the wire that supplies power to the fuel gauge meter light) that I cut and reconnected as I removed the gauge cluster.

menikmati · December 12th, 2011, 08:17 PM

Checked the continuity of the new ground created by the diode mod and that checked out fine. I cut the red wire that I reconnected when installing the diodes and now the bike runs fine. All the dash lights work including the tail/brake light. I think the wire belonged to the gear indicator which I can live without.

Going to put everything back together sometime later this week to check everything.

December 7th, 2011, 02:09 AM	#1
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	Turn Signal Indicator Issues I've tested my turn signals and they both are operating correctly except for the fact that when I engage my left turn signal, the indicator on the gauge cluster does not blink. However, everything is fine when I signal to the right. Anyone have any suggestions on what to look for?

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December 7th, 2011, 02:50 AM	#2
jmcblitz ninjette.org member Name: J Location: Irvine Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): '08 Kawi Ninja 250R Posts: 14	when you say "tested your turn signals", what do you mean by that? Could be because one of the bulbs of your turn signals burned out (remember to check both front and rear), or maybe the fuse for left turn signals was fried (fuse box is under your seat, you have to take off some fairings to get to it).

December 10th, 2011, 10:40 PM	#4
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	Fixed the indicator problem by doing the diode mod. Now, I snipped a red wire that went to a bundled red/black wire. I "reconnected" it by twisting some of the bare wire together and now my background lights for the tachometer, speedometer, and fuel gauge don't work, along with the tail and brake lights. However, the fuel pressure, neutral, turn signal, and temperature lights all work. I've trained to dissect the wiring diagram on the forum and I think that red/black wire bundle is what supplies power for the above problems, hopefully by establishing a better connection on the wire I previously cut will return everything back to normal.

December 11th, 2011, 09:56 PM	#5
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	When taking the seat off today, I noticed the fuse box and decided to check it out and found that the fuse marked TAILS was blown. I replaced that fuse and when I turned the bike on it keeps on blowing that fuse. I have the HID bulbs unplugged from their ballasts and both front turn signals disconnected. Do you think the diode mode could be the culprit? I bought 1N4004 rectifier diodes if that helps any. Going to be check my wiring for the diodes tomorrow. Would it be possible that it's blowing the fuse even when none of the turn signals are on when I turn the key?

December 12th, 2011, 01:29 AM	#6
jonthechron ninjette.org sage Name: Jon Location: Usa Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): magHitVE Posts: 649	The 1N4004 is rated for only 1A, are you using stock signals? If so stock signals draw around 2A including the the dash light (3.4w)

December 12th, 2011, 08:17 PM	#10
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	Checked the continuity of the new ground created by the diode mod and that checked out fine. I cut the red wire that I reconnected when installing the diodes and now the bike runs fine. All the dash lights work including the tail/brake light. I think the wire belonged to the gear indicator which I can live without. Going to put everything back together sometime later this week to check everything.