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Old December 19th, 2010, 12:56 PM   #81
Rexbo
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Hey Rexbo

How's the rebuild going?
Got gsxr shock installed but haven't set it up yet.
How do you set the blue know and the nut inside? Is that for rebound (blue) and the small screw is damping?
The compression damping is the little set screw inside the blue nut, and the rebound damping is the screw on the lower fork mount (or is it the other way around?). Either way, they're labeled, so just go look at them haha. The big blue nut doesn't move (I don't think). As for preload, the spring perch is just threaded onto the shock body, so you can just loosen the jam nut and adjust preload by spinning the perch with a screwdriver and hammer.

Shop STILL has my bike, they're being slow as crap, and I think i'm gonna go over there and just take my bike back if they're too incompetent to fix it. I'm going into 2-wheel withdrawl.
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Old December 19th, 2010, 02:05 PM   #82
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Thx Rexbo. I have been busy installing the shock & cartridge on the 600rr so haven't mess with the gsxr shock. The gsxr preload, the spanner wrench on the ninja will work.
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Old December 21st, 2010, 08:13 AM   #83
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I posted a question on the Gixxer forum. It appears that big blue nut (or red in older model) is "adjustable".
Bottom is for rebound adj.
Up is compression high and low speed.
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Old December 21st, 2010, 09:14 AM   #84
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blue nut is for high speed compression damping. The screw inside that blue nut is for low speed compression damping. Bottom screw is for rebound damping. Case closed
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Old December 21st, 2010, 07:56 PM   #85
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Quote:
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blue nut is for high speed compression damping. The screw inside that blue nut is for low speed compression damping. Bottom screw is for rebound damping. Case closed
best $20 mod ever
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Old December 27th, 2010, 08:32 AM   #86
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Rexbo (Steve),
did you adjusted your rear preload at all? I checked/adjusted the rear yesterday and I had to back up the preload ring all the way up top. I was trying to get the sag to the recommended spec of 30-35 mm (street).
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 11:50 AM   #87
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Rexbo (Steve),
did you adjusted your rear preload at all? I checked/adjusted the rear yesterday and I had to back up the preload ring all the way up top. I was trying to get the sag to the recommended spec of 30-35 mm (street).
have not, I just bolted it on and rocked out. I'll try to set all that stuff later when I have everything apart. Were you able to get correct sag?
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 11:57 AM   #88
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GSXR spring is a little strong for the ninjette. I had to back the preload all the way back to get to the recommended sag of 30-35mm but it worked.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 03:59 AM   #89
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Quote:
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word. TQ is scary fast now at the track with that race slick front tire. I had to convince him to just romp on it harder to put more heat into it to get it to stick better. MAYBE i'll let him use my front tire warmer next time.

Now to jack the thread back, here's moar pics:

Front M/C banjo bolt:



Rear M/C banjo:



Now I gotta figure out how to wire these two bolts that hold it to the rearset... I dont think loctite is good enough



Rear Brake caliper banjo:



Rear axle nut:



Rear axle adjusters:




Found some interesting things after going to chuckwalla racetrack last weekend! Dragging stock exhaust, definitely time to go:



Also starting to crack my front brake rotor between the holes. Not a good sign! I guess I'll have to start carrying spares to the track!



I'm going to go back and take care of all the sharp ends on the safety wiring and probably re-do some of them to make them look cleaner or get a little tighter. Hopefully the emulator/spring installs will be coming up next, along with more engine safety wiring during phase 2 of the build...
What kind of racing slick are you using? where did you get them from? I am making my ninja track only.. should i go for a slick or \bt003rs?
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Old January 9th, 2011, 07:36 AM   #90
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Krunk - the OP looks like he's running Bridgestones, probably BT-003's. I ran those on my race bike and was very happy with them. The rear lasted the entire season. 18 races plus practice sessions.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 08:08 AM   #91
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Yes he has the 003rs on the bike. The front leaves a little to be desired. So I'm going to fix that for him.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 11:06 PM   #92
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Yes he has the 003rs on the bike. The front leaves a little to be desired. So I'm going to fix that for him.
if you insist.

But yeah, last track day, I didnt push it particularly hard, but still wasn't a huge fan of the 003rs front tire. I'm going to give it another chance though after I upgrade my front forks because it may just have been that the new tires had enough grip to pretty much keep the forks bottomed out all day, making the tires seem lacking.

TQ (nope on here) was running a bridgestone (i think) front slick, but he's got a 120 width tire due to the gsxr front end.

Last futzed with by Rexbo; January 11th, 2011 at 01:14 PM.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 01:39 PM   #93
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So I finally got my bike back from the shop yesterday, and everything is all fixed. Now to get my deductible back from the other person's insurance company...

Back to sexy status!





Just waiting on some stuff from Matt & my bank account to recover a bit... and phases 2 & 3 begin

ALSO: Nope came across this: http://www.cvmaracing.com/Home_Page.html and they have a 250 supersport class, which basically uses the AFM 250 production rules, 6 races this year, so I guess it looks like I'll be doing more racing!

Last futzed with by Rexbo; January 11th, 2011 at 03:20 PM.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 01:49 PM   #94
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looks new again.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 02:59 PM   #95
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Steven I'll hit you up on Facebook later.
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Old January 15th, 2011, 06:10 PM   #96
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took the bike to the dyno today just to see what its lookin like, and I dont have a dyno chart right now (their printer was broken!) but they're going to email me a copy on monday. So baseline right now is 27.2hp @ 10,800 rpm, which definitely isn't bad for a bone stock bike. Next weekend will be a complete teardown of the moto, finish safety wiring and weight reduction!
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Old January 15th, 2011, 07:15 PM   #97
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Bike looks good! Glad to see it back together! What size sproket ar you running?
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Old January 21st, 2011, 03:53 PM   #98
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your bike looks great man,
Im thinking of doing some safety wire on a few bolts on my bike, the bolt for my exhaust mount recently rattled loose and dissapeared...

..also would doing the gsxr rear shock on my street bike be a good idea? id love to take it to the track one day but for now its how i get to school and work..
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Old January 25th, 2011, 02:26 AM   #99
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your bike looks great man,
Im thinking of doing some safety wire on a few bolts on my bike, the bolt for my exhaust mount recently rattled loose and dissapeared...

..also would doing the gsxr rear shock on my street bike be a good idea? id love to take it to the track one day but for now its how i get to school and work..
Thanks! Yeah the GSXR shock would be just fine, I've found it to be no worse on the street than the stock one.

So another few more photos & progression here. Installed the temporary exhaust (jardine gp-1), my Racetech forks (0.7 kg/mm springs with gold emulators and 15w oil), the BRT TIS non-programmable, and removed pretty much everything that didn't need to stay on the bike.

The garage before:



The garage during (extra ass-crack plz):



Exhaust installed:



Turns out spacing the rear dogbones apart to fit the gsxr rear shock interferes with this exhaust pipe, so we had to use some spacers and flip around the lower shock mount bolt to get more clearance.



Goodbye thermostat:



Hello giant mess:



Top secret calculations


Only did a very short road test but I'm definitely happy so far! The exhaust is SUPER loud but sounds good. Riding this thing on the street would be a recipe for angry neighbors. The front forks feel totally different. Gone is the squishy front end that is great for potholes, enter a tight and planted front end that just feels great. Track update will be needed for this one, but I have high hopes. TIS makes the bike idle higher (advanced timing) so I'll need to turn that down a tad, and I'll need to mess with the jetting some to get it right. More dyno time coming soon.

Last things on the list: Race bodywork, AMB transponder, brake pads, and supercorsa sc1 front tire, then finish safety wiring everything. So close to finish, and first race of the season is March 13! Coming right up!
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Old January 25th, 2011, 08:28 PM   #100
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I hate you for getting a free set of body work.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 08:42 PM   #101
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I hate you for getting a free set of body work.
hey if you order it, you can get a free set too!
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Old January 25th, 2011, 08:54 PM   #102
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I don't need two. I only need an upper and lower till my body work gets over here in July.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 09:04 PM   #103
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lots of goodies on this thread... i can see somethings that i want, minus anything that breaks specs for the class i want to run
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Old January 31st, 2011, 02:18 PM   #104
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Some more goodies arrived!







Will attempt to test fit in a bit!

EDIT: Test fitted, they're pretty nice! They don't snap together like OEM pieces do, but thats unrealistic for fiberglass race bodywork anyway, but just sitting on the bike, everything lines up pretty nicely! I may not even use the stock headlight support just because it's bulky and doesn't use two of the stock mounting points for the race fairing. Time to get an aluminum one made! I didn't fit the belly pan yet, since I have no dzus fasteners on hand to hold it up. More incoming soon.
















Last futzed with by Rexbo; January 31st, 2011 at 03:37 PM.
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Old January 31st, 2011, 02:29 PM   #105
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Will attempt to test fit in a bit!
I'm itching to pull the trigger on these, especially since they are local. Can't wait for your update!
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Old January 31st, 2011, 02:47 PM   #106
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What company for the body bits? They look good.
I've got Armorbodies on mine and like 'em.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 01:46 PM   #107
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What company for the body bits? They look good.
I've got Armorbodies on mine and like 'em.
Hotbodies... good enough and VERY cheap (2 sets for ~$620!)

Also a sneak peek exhaust vid: (Note: this is just my practice exhaust, I've got a different one that I'll be using for races to quiet it down some, and also rep for Matt!)

Jardine GP-1, BRT-TIS, stock airbox & snorkel w/filter, no jetting yet, cold startup. Notice that the exhaust is actually rattling the camera!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c5qll421lk

Last futzed with by Rexbo; February 11th, 2011 at 05:47 PM.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 01:55 PM   #108
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Hotbodies are good for racers on a budget. But they do crack and chip easily. Once you get them painted it no longer lines up...weirdest thing. That hasn't happened to my Sharkskinz bodywork but for the hotbodies it did.

I have tons of reviews on the body work all over the net. LOL

BTW, nothing beats Sharkskinz...best quality EVA!
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Old February 12th, 2011, 08:46 PM   #109
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Update: New racer school is only 2 weeks away and this is my last free weekend to get stuff ready for like the next 2 months, so getting work done is the name of the game! Decided to keep my sorta bent stock front fairing support because it would make installation of the steering damper super easy! All the fairings are painted, just need to install the jet kit (in process right now), paint the gas tank, and get the front windscreen in the mail (monday), then get it on the dyno.

GSXR-1000 non-electronic steering damper on eBay: $20 shipped
37mm fork tube steering damper bracket on eBay: $34 shipped

Maybe its overkill, but if it hurts anything, I can always take it off. Also notice that I had to zip tie the brake line so it stands away from the bracket, cant have things like that rubbing! Installation as as easy as just drilling a hole in the top of the fairing stay, putting a locknut on the other side and bolting it on with a spacer so that it doesnt rub against the stay.





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Old February 13th, 2011, 02:55 PM   #110
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Update again: Re-jetted and cleaned the carb out this morning, what a pain in the ass. Went off Matt & kkim's recommendations of #98 main jet, mix screws 2.5 turns out, and it seems to run great. Of course this was based off one blast down the block and back. Had to adjust the idle up a little bit, but nothing big. Still need to repaint the tank, but its full of gas right now, so I'll wait till I burn off more gas so its easier to handle. Steering damper might be too stiff, but we'll see. I'll take it to the dyno this week to see what it putting out.

Front weight(lbs): 156.8
Rear Weight (lbs): 160.6
Total: 317.2 lbs WET (full tank of gas, full oil & coolant)



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Old February 13th, 2011, 03:24 PM   #111
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Awesome thread, Im going to start safety wiring next month probably. Im planning on getting my ninja ready to run for 2011 SE WERA superstock. She is stripped down right now and I have been trying to budget stuff to make it somewhat cheap (especially with the wedding coming up in may).

I still need to get gear together too, aside from the suit (my trackskinz that I picked up should be good for now.)

As far as the GSXR damper goes, how is it lock to lock? Im thinking of going that route due to WERA requiring them.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 05:51 PM   #112
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I still need to get gear together too, aside from the suit (my trackskinz that I picked up should be good for now.)

As far as the GSXR damper goes, how is it lock to lock? Im thinking of going that route due to WERA requiring them.
Craigslist and ebay are your friends!

Damper goes lock to lock just fine without binding up! I had to adjust the clamp outboard a little bit to get it to have more travel when turning left, and had to zip tie the throttle cables so they wouldn't pinch, but thats about it. Definitely a really easy mod.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 05:56 PM   #113
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There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 05:59 PM   #114
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There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.
yeah rode it around a bit more, and it just seems to be overkill. I'll try it on a track day and see if I like it there, otherwise, f it.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 06:33 PM   #115
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There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.
Thats what I figured, no need spending 500 bucks on one.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 06:40 PM   #116
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Steve, I noticed your LH handle bar switch housing is missing what are you doing about the choke cable? Then again if allowed to warm up suitably before the race I don't see it as a big deal.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 06:49 PM   #117
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racers usually run a wire for the carb to the side of the bike with a washer on it so they can pull it.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 07:51 PM   #118
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There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.
That's just plain stupid, and overkill.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 11:15 PM   #119
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racers usually run a wire for the carb to the side of the bike with a washer on it so they can pull it.
just another use for a zip tie in my case hahah but yes, thats the solution, its really easy to just reach down and pull on the zip tie to keep it from stalling out on first warmup.

As for steering damper, I can always take it off (pretty easily) if I don't like it, so its not an issue for me. Neither AFM nor CVMA require it, but i know WERA does so I might as well try it out. In all the track days I've done on the bike before, I've never had a tankslapper or even front end twitchyness, so it will probably turn out as a wasted experiment. In the meantime, it can sit there and look cool.
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Old February 24th, 2011, 12:55 PM   #120
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I really like this build thread. It makes me wish I took more pictures during my build.
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