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Old December 4th, 2008, 09:30 PM   #1
kkim
 
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DIY- Changing Tires on the 250R

I always intended to upgrade the tires on the 250R even before purchasing my bike back in March 08, so this has been a long time coming. The bike came with Bridgestone BT45 tires which have served me well... in fact I highly endorse them as a great street tire for all around use.

I had been looking for a set of BT 090 tires for months which are DOT legal race compound radials in sizes that would fit our bikes. The fronts are the same as stock, 110-70x17, but the smallest they make are a 140-70x17, which is fractionally taller than the stock tire. The good thing is, the 140 width size is still within the approved 3.5"rear wheel on the new gen 250Rs.

Amazingly, the new Yamaha WR-250X uses the same tires, so getting a set is as easy as ordering through your nearest Yamaha dealer if you are looking for a set. Our Yami dealer here sucks, so I ended up ordering this set through newenough.com as a special order. Let me say that if you ever need a great online source of parts, you owe it you yourself to check them out. Nate and crew at newenough provide the best customer service I have ever experienced at very reasonable prices. I've long learned that once you find a good online dealer, it's always better to pay a bit more to insure a smooth, hassle free transaction, including returns. Newenough has always been there for me and I feel I needed to pass on my good fortune with the rest of you.

Here's my version of changing tires on the 250R... only the front will be shown as the rear is the same as far as removing and installing the tire.

Few weeks ago I get these in the mail... I was surprised how light they were to carry.

-015.jpg -016.jpg -017.jpg

Okay, a few weeks later with 1600 miles on the odometer, I decide to change tires... it took me that long, cause I was dreading the chore. I will be spooning the tires on by hand instead of taking the wheels off and taking them to a shop to install. I trust no one but myself to screw up my bike. I know, pretty stupid and anal... tell me something I don't already know.

Get the bike up on stands and begin with taking the speedometer cable off

-018.jpg

remove cotter pin...

-019.jpg

...then the axle nut. 22mm nut, 17mm axle head bolt size.

-020.jpg

slide axle out

-021.jpg

and the wheel assembly should drop to the ground

-022.jpg

at this point, I highly suggest you stick a spacer of some sort between the brake pads in the caliper. If you don't, some kid, gf, buddy, friend, idiot will come along and squeeze the front brake lever on your bike while you work and potentially cause you a major brake caliper headache.

-023.jpg

remove speedometer drive assembly from one side...

-024.jpg -025.jpg

...and spacer from the other side of the wheel.

-026.jpg

Continued on next post... see you on the other side.
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Old December 4th, 2008, 09:31 PM   #2
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Lay down a blanket to work on so you don't end up marring the wheels and assemble your work tools. You'll need tire irons, rim protectors, a valve core removal tool and some stuff to make sliding the tire off the wheel easier.

-027.jpg

Appropriately named, I have a bucket of "stuf" that I purchased years ago when I used to mount tires on dirt bikes. This bucket of "stuf" is most likely older than some of you on the board.

-028.jpg

This stuff is just nasty looking, but is a water based lubricant that doesn't dry out and is non caustic like detergent and other common lubricants used to mount tires. Even better, when done with the job, it washes away clean with a light scrubbing with water and a brush.

-029.jpg

The last tool you need is something to break the bead of the tire from the rim. There are many ways to do this. This is my solution... it looks like a medieval torture contraption, but it's a very old, very effective bead breaker I have used for years on motorcycle and automotive tire changes.

-030.jpg

So, lets get started. First we need to let all the air out of the tire. Using a valve core removal tool, unscrew the valve core located inside the stem.

-031.jpg -032.jpg

next, position the wheel assembly on the bead breaker being careful to protect the bottom side of the wheel and to also position the portion you will be pressing down on carefully so you don't chip or bend the rim.

-033.jpg

push down on the bead breaker handle until the bead "pops" from the wheel and slides down a few inches.

-034.jpg

Lay the wheel with the brake disc side up to prevent bending it while working and generously lubricate the tire/wheel area with the stuf.

-035.jpg

loop the rim protector strings around the hub area to prevent them from falling into the tire when you work.

-036.jpg

Line the up on the edge of the rim

-037.jpg

Then using a tire iron, slip the edge of the tool under the wheel lip and lever the tire up and over the rim.

-038.jpg

use another iron and do the same thing to the section right next to the section you just lifted.

-039.jpg

continue working in small sections around the tire as you lift more and more of it off the wheel.

-040.jpg

Sorry, no pictures here as it takes like three hands at times to work the irons and I didn't have an extra hand to snap pics as I worked my way around the tire and the other side.

Once done, you now have the the tire off the rim.

-041.jpg

Tire is off. Now to put the new one on... see next post to continue.

Are we "tired" yet?
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Old December 4th, 2008, 09:31 PM   #3
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Clean up the rim a bit and then put the wheel back on the blanket with the brake disk facing up. Lubricate the tire lightly just at the edges of the tire. For mounting the tire, a lot of stuf isn't really needed... in fact, it makes the job a bit dirtier and more difficult if you have too much.

-042.jpg

Look for the directional arrow on the tire and be sure you are mounting the tire in the proper rotation direction. It is a real pisser to mount the tire and find out you've mounted it the wrong way... ask me how I know.

-043.jpg

put the tire over the rim and try to work it over the rim by hand. Some tires will do this, while the stiffer sidewall ones are more difficult. One side of the front tire easily slipped over the rim edge with a little persuasion.

-044.jpg

Just as taking off the tire, position the rim protectors on the edge of the rim

-045.jpg

And just as you did to get the tire off the rim, you work your way around the rim with the tire irons a little at a time until the tire edge is on the rim.

-046.jpg

Screw in the valve core stem

-047.jpg

Then seat the tire by inflating until the air pressure inside pushes the tire edges against the edge of the rim. There will be a loud "pop" as the edges seat against the rim. Do not exceed the max rated pressure of the tire which is written somewhere on the tire itself. If the tire doesn't seat by the max pressure of the tire, deflate, lubricate a bit more, then try again.

-048.jpg

now that we have mounted the tire, it's time to balance it. I've found a cheap, easy way to do this is to put the wheel back on the bike with just the axle running through it and spin the tire. Mark the lowest spot to the ground with a grease pencil when the tire stops. Spin it again and see if it stops at the same place. If it does, you will need to add some weight so the tire will spin and stop at different, random spots. The tire will then be balanced.

-049.jpg

Of course, no project would be complete without doing other stuff "while you are in there", so I greased the bearings with some waterproof wheel bearing grease and tried to fill all cavities with grease so no water could fill empty spaces when ridden in the rain or when the bike was washed. I also greased the front bearing seal area well to stop the dreaded noise some people have experienced. Excuse the poor pics, my hands were filthy at this point and i was trying to shoot pictures holding the camera with it inside a ziplock bag with the lens pointing through a hole.

-050.jpg

After greasing the seals, put in the spacer on the right side and the speedometer drive housing on the left side. There are 2 ridges in the speedometer housing that need to align with a notch in the fork leg when you put the wheel back in so the housing will not rotate.

-051.jpg -052.jpg -053.jpg

Almost done... I grease the axle lightly with a coat of grease to prevent it from oxidizing. I have undone many a front axle only to find they have been corroded in place from years of exposure to water. Grease on the axle prevents this.

-054.jpg

Lift the wheel into place making sure the brake disc slips between the brake pads and the speedometer drive housing and then insert the axle through the forks and wheel. Put the nut on the end of the axle, but don't tighten yet. Spin the wheel and as it spins, grab the front brake and clamp it tight. Do this a few times, tighten the front axle nut to 65 ft/lbs per spec, then lock everything into place with the cotter pin.

-055.jpg

To be truthful, when I tightened the front nut to spec, I just felt it was way too tight. I backed it off a bit to a bout 55ft/lbs, then locked everything down with the cotter pin. At spec, it just seemed too tight and with the cotter pin in there, it's not coming loose. (spec is 65 ft/lbs)

Okay, next is the rear tire...

-056.jpg

(rear has a 17mm/24mm axle/nut, and the torque specs are 72 ft/lbs)

...which I am not going to do.

Suffice to say, changing the rear tire is essentially the same procedure as doing the front once you get the rear wheel off the bike.

The only comment I have is when putting the rear wheel back on, I could not for the life of me get the rear caliper to line up properly while juggling the tire and axle all at the same time. I must have worked on this for a good half hour before I found a solution. I couldn't believe how easy it was to assemble the rear wheel once I tried it. Instead of inserting the axle from the left side of the bike, insert it from the right side and use the axle to keep the brake caliper in place as you line up the rest of the wheel and axle properly.

-057.jpg

So there you have it, how to mount tires on the 250R. if you have any questions post up and I hope I can help to answer them.

Haven't ridden the bike yet, so I have no feedback yet on the tires.
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Old February 5th, 2009, 12:26 PM   #4
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Kelly,
Did you have any trouble with the brake pads falling out while taking off the wheels ? I read one of the racers threads on kf that said he had problems with the rear pads.
Thanks, Steve
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Old February 5th, 2009, 12:39 PM   #5
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Steve,

Not that I can remember, but the rear brake is a PITA when you are trying to put the wheel back on. I just put the axle in from the right side of the bike instead of the left and it was much easier.

Even if the pads did fall out during removal, what's the problem? Just put them back in place or am I missing something?
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Old February 5th, 2009, 12:46 PM   #6
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Just wondered if there was a trick to it or needing a third hand .
I'll be changing mine soon. But i've never taken wheels off a bike before.

The dealer will mount them for free or they will remove wheels and mount them for $100 . I'm still deciding which i want to do .
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Old February 5th, 2009, 12:58 PM   #7
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I'd have them mount and balance them for free and do the rest myself. It's a good a time as any to learn.

Do you have front and rear stands? if not, you may want to reconsider doing them yourself.

It can be a struggle, but I did all the work w/o a third hand.
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Old February 5th, 2009, 01:05 PM   #8
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Yes i have both stands.
Thanks for your help.
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Old February 5th, 2009, 01:08 PM   #9
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anytime, sir... anytime.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 01:11 PM   #10
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BT-090's Installed

The weather got too cold for me to do this myself outside, so i took it to the dealer . I love small town dealerships . They want you as a repeat customer. They didn't charge me what i had thought they would , only $30 .
I have to say i love the radials they ride so much better on broken roads. I don't have them scrubbed in yet so i can't comment now on the feel in the corners.
I don't know the going prices on these tires , but i think i got a great deal.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 01:23 PM   #11
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Those are about the going rate for the tires. You got a deal on the install though, based on prices around here.

Watch out the first few times you lean the bike into the corner... these tires just seem to want o keep leaning and offer no resistance as the stock tires did. Yes they are a bit "cushier" feeling. In fact, I raised my tire pressures by 2 psi to 30psi f/r after installing mine to get some "feel" back.

enjoy!
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:26 PM   #12
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Looking at the pictures you posted I need to ask, my front brake disc is turning a brassy color (rust?) but the rear one looks fine...

Could that pose a problem? Should I replace it??
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:36 PM   #13
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post a picture of your front rotor. I bet it's nothing more than rust on the rotor. If it is, it isn't a problem and should be wiped clean by your brake pads when you use your front brakes. If it isn't being wiped clean and you are using your front brakes, you could have a malfunctioning brake caliper. Pictures would really help to troubleshoot the problem.

have you taken the MSF course?
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:41 PM   #14
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Was reading this again cause of that wobble thread. Maybe invest in one of those static balancers, they work pretty good. Still cant beat a spin balance machine............... Have been thru 7 sets of tires in the last year, you can really tell the diff on a balance. < You know, when ya let off the bars around 70mph slowing down(and really notice when your steering damper is f'up).

Still nice seeing somebody change tires on there own
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:50 PM   #15
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Thanks... taking the front wheel to have it dynamically balanced is one of my things to do to try and solve the wobble, but I have other things to try before that. Besides, I don't even know if anyone on the island has a spin balancer for bikes and if they do, how much they charge. In the past, the method I have used has proven successful in static balancing the tire, but this may be the one time it's not.

used to change all my tires on my dirt bikes, so moving on to changing street bike tires was never a problem.


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Old February 12th, 2009, 09:05 PM   #16
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^ I understand your location, that plays a big part. These newer street bikes are a bit different from the old days. < really no comparsion to a dirt bike now.

If you had some old skateboard roller bearings, and a nice bar with cones to lock onto the wheel. You could probably build your own. I played around in the garage with the idea(the people around here charge arm and leg - if you can find someone to do it).

Iam going to try again on the next change, poor mans way. If it doesnt work out, then Iam gonna go the full No-Mar.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 09:19 PM   #17
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If it doesnt work out, then Iam gonna go the full No-Mar.
Yikes... that can get costly!!
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Old February 12th, 2009, 09:47 PM   #18
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Lordy lordy. I'm really hurtin' for some new tires! Once they start to flat spot, they go QUICK! I was debating getting the tire irons, weight removal tool and rim protectors; but will likely just drop the money this time to have a shop change the tires. I'm really considering the BT-045's, but the reviews on the Avon's is good and they're comprably priced. Hrmmm choices
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Old February 12th, 2009, 09:53 PM   #19
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try the Avons and let us know how they are!
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Old February 14th, 2009, 07:07 PM   #20
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post a picture of your front rotor. I bet it's nothing more than rust on the rotor. If it is, it isn't a problem and should be wiped clean by your brake pads when you use your front brakes. If it isn't being wiped clean and you are using your front brakes, you could have a malfunctioning brake caliper. Pictures would really help to troubleshoot the problem.

have you taken the MSF course?
Here is what they look like right now:

IMG_0275.jpg Front
IMG_0276.jpg Rear

The smell of rust was really strong when I took the photos... and I'm afraid of riding it thinking this could affect the brakes. Please let me know what you think...

I'm taking the MSF class next weekend (at last!!)
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Old February 14th, 2009, 07:12 PM   #21
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Looks to be just surface rust on your rotor. It should be fine. No need to replace it based on surface rust.

Do you ride your bike much and if so, do you use your front brake at all? It doesn't look like you do.
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Old February 14th, 2009, 07:39 PM   #22
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Looks to be just surface rust on your rotor. It should be fine. No need to replace it based on surface rust.

Do you ride your bike much and if so, do you use your front brake at all? It doesn't look like you do.
Phew, what a relief!

I'm in the process of getting the license plate this coming week (just got the bike) and the class is next weekend so no, haven't been on the bike much. Not yet. :P

Do you think that rust will go away when I start riding it? Or should I use a special cleaner on it first?
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Old February 14th, 2009, 07:47 PM   #23
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The rust will likely go away after just the first few miles. Just to be safe, I wouldn't grab the heck out of the brakes the first mile or two, try some gentle braking to make sure the brake feel is appropriate, and soon enough all of that surface rust will just disappear. Brake rotors rust, it's just what they do. It's not typically a problem because the brake pads do a great job cleaning the rust off during use.
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Old February 14th, 2009, 07:47 PM   #24
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It will go away when you start using the front brake. The rotor surface is made from iron and like all bare iron, it will rust when subjected to water or humidity. As you can see from your rear brake rotor, most of it has been wiped clean from use. BTW, what's that black piece of cloth looking thing on your rear wheel adjuster for?
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Old February 14th, 2009, 07:51 PM   #25
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BTW, what's that black piece of cloth looking thing on your rear wheel adjuster for?
Some new after market rear suspension device?
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Old February 14th, 2009, 08:05 PM   #26
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Some new after market rear suspension device?
LOL!!

The cloth-looking thing is actually one of the elastic straps of the bike's half-cover... good eye kkim for noticing it!

Thanks to everybody for the advice on the rust, as soon as I get my license I'll start riding Itoshii to the nearest public parking lot to make that rotor look like new again!!
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Old February 14th, 2009, 08:06 PM   #27
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have fun, ride safe.
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Old April 17th, 2009, 07:39 PM   #28
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That was a very good DIY thread.
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Old April 17th, 2009, 07:45 PM   #29
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Thanks!

We're gonna be changing tires on komohana's pregen tomorrow to Demons. I told him to get a lot of rest tonight as he's doing the muscle part of the changes... not me.
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Old September 15th, 2009, 02:04 PM   #30
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Heya Kim. My front motorycle stand supports the front of the bike by raising it by the tip of the forks.



Front stand is the top one.

I'm worried that once the front tire is removed, the forks could possible bend themselves off the stand. Will that be fine for this use or should I purchase a stand similar to what you have in the pics?
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Old September 15th, 2009, 02:09 PM   #31
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Sean,

I think you'll be fine, provided you can slide the axle out with that stand. If you are worried about stabilty/strength, put the axle back through the forks while you work on the wheel to keep them from moving.

GL... let us know how it turns out.

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Old September 15th, 2009, 05:12 PM   #32
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I think I have a couple thousand miles yet, but I do plan on heading to Harbor Freight and picking up a bead breaker when the time comes.
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Old September 17th, 2009, 06:40 AM   #33
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I think I have a couple thousand miles yet, but I do plan on heading to Harbor Freight and picking up a bead breaker when the time comes.
How much do they run there?
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Old September 17th, 2009, 10:00 AM   #34
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Bead Breaker

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/bead-...ad-breaker.htm

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Old September 17th, 2009, 05:40 PM   #35
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Rear Tire - Insert Axle from Right Side

kkim,

There is a NOTE in the '09 service manual, which says to insert the rear axle from the right side when reinstalling the rear tire!
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Old September 17th, 2009, 06:16 PM   #36
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yeah, I know. I just found it much easier to get everything together from the left side. I couldn't figure out why it would make any difference. Can you?
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Old September 18th, 2009, 05:43 AM   #37
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kkim, we are talking the same side. Per the manual, the right side (see below) is the side with the muffler. Unless you can find some place else in the manual where it changes the location representation!



I know some people refer to the sides by standing in front of the bike. That's why I researched so long, before posting previously!

From the 2008 Service Manual:



And the NOTE that I mentioned:


Last futzed with by g21-30; September 18th, 2009 at 07:26 AM.
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Old September 18th, 2009, 07:29 AM   #38
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Front End Wobble

kkim, In rereading this DIY, I noticed that you only torqued the front axle to 55 ft-lbs. Is it possible this might be causing the front end wobble?
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Old September 18th, 2009, 10:09 AM   #39
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Sam... sorry. Yes, axle inserted from the right (muffler) side, nut is on the left side. Hmmm... so why does the new gens come from the factory with the axle inserted from the left side?

IIRC, pregens come with the axle inserted from the right... perhaps they just cut and pasted instructions from that manual to the new gen?

Yes, I retorqued the front axle nut to proper specs when I was troubleshooting the wobble and it didn't make a difference. BTW, I still have the wobble, but my back tire is almost worn down, so I'll be installing a new set of tires soon. Hopefully the problem will go away then.
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Old September 18th, 2009, 03:27 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
Sam... sorry. Yes, axle inserted from the right (muffler) side, nut is on the left side. Hmmm... so why does the new gens come from the factory with the axle inserted from the left side?

IIRC, pregens come with the axle inserted from the right... perhaps they just cut and pasted instructions from that manual to the new gen?
I found some cutting/pasting while researching the CDI retrofit. The pregen service manuals are a league above the postgens.

I bet the assembly line for the postgens is setup to insert the axles from the left side.
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