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Old December 15th, 2008, 04:59 PM   #1
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DIY- Oil Change

Oil and oil filter change... about as controversial as politics and religion.

Wanna start a big argument?? Just ask a bunch of bike riders what the best oil there is and a heated "discussion" will ensue.

No matter what your views, though, all agree that oil is the lifeblood of a motorcycle engine and even more so in a small, high revving engine as is designed for our bikes.

With that said, my oil change DIY will include references to biases that I have acquired throughout the years, so deal with it if you have a problem. The end result is the same, though... that the oil and filter gets changed on a regular basis.

There have been many oil change DIYs done, but none by a ninjette member, so I felt it was necessary to do one as guide for this site. The best guide that I have found for oil changes for our bikes is right in your owner's manual. If you've never read your owners manual, spend the time to read it cover to cover... it will explain a lot that you may not know about your bike.

With that, I'll be using the oil change procedure in the manual as a guide for this DIY (references from the owner's handbook are in bolded print), with inputs and pictures from me when I feel is required.

So.....

keep track of the work you do on your bikes... there is a maintenance log in the back of the owner's manual that I use record oil changes/mileage. At 1913 miles, this is the 5th oil change the bike has seen. I've done oil/filter changes at 53, 297,528,1008 and 1913 miles. Clean oil is crucial to a long lasting engine, especially during it's early life. Use the proper viscosity as outlined in your manual. Most people will use 10w-40.

I raise my bike up on the rear stand for a couple of reasons, but oil changes can be done with the bike on its side stand.

Ninja_Oil_Change_01.jpg

Warm up the engine thoroughly and stop it.
Previously, I had done oil changes after running the bike down the street and back or after a ride. With a water temperature gauge I added a few months back, knowing when the bike is warmed is a snap.

Here are some of the tools you will need to change your oil and filter.

Some oil filter part numbers that will work in the previous gen and new gen bikes. They use the same oil filter.

Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.)
CarQuest: CFI-89941
Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings)
Fram: CH6012
Hastings: LF571
Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
Kawasaki: 16099-003
K&N: KN-401
NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941)
Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501)
Purolator: ML16812
STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.)
Triumph: 1210031
Vesrah: SF-4004
WIX: 24941
Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00

Ninja_Oil_Change_02.jpg

Place an oil pan beneath the engine

Remove the oil drain plug 17MM socket/wrench
be careful when you remove the plug that you remove the aluminum crush washer also. the washer will sometimes stick to the engine side. also, be careful as the oil is hot, now, so unscrew the plug while pushing in at the same time. Once the plug is free of the threads, by pushing in while you turn the plug to remove, you prevent the oil from shooting out and you dropping the plug in to the pan. Instead, when the plug is free of the engine case threads, quickly pull the plug out of the way and let the oil pour into the drain pan. Have a rag handy just in case.

Ninja_Oil_Change_03.jpg

Let the oil drain completely with the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground

Ninja_Oil_Change_04.jpg

Remove the oil filter mounting bolt and drop out the oil filter

Ninja_Oil_Change_05.jpg

Replace the oil filter element with a new one

This is where it gets a bit tricky the first time you do this. I advise having your owner's manual handy for the exact sequence the parts need to be assembled when doing a filter change. They have a very nice drawing in there.

The dropped out oil filter element and associated parts

Ninja_Oil_Change_06.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_07.jpg

Replace the O-rings with new ones.

you can see the larger O ring around the outside portion of the plate. There is a smaller o ring which requires removal of that spring and washer.

the smaller O ring is at the base of the center tube... remove the spring, washer and base plate.

new O rings should be included with the filter... mine has them with the Wix filters I use.

Ninja_Oil_Change_08.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_09.jpg

to replace the O ring, use something to lift the o ring out of it's groove and replace with a new O ring.

Ninja_Oil_Change_10.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_11.jpg

With the O rings changed, we are now ready to reinstall the filter... in the next post.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf DIY- Oil Change - ninjette.org.pdf (8.69 MB, 244 views)

Last futzed with by kkim; December 15th, 2008 at 10:09 PM.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 04:59 PM   #2
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Apply a little engine oil to the O ring on the filter mounting bolt, fit the filter cover on the bolt and install the spring and flat washer.

Ninja_Oil_Change_12.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_13.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_14.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_15.jpg

Apply a little engine oil to the grommets on both sides of the filter element and turn and work the filter element into place. Be careful that the element grommets do not slip out of place.

Ninja_Oil_Change_16.jpg

Install the element fence (cap) on the bolt.

Ninja_Oil_Change_17.jpg

Install the oil filter, tightening its mounting bolt to the specified torque. (14.5 ft/lbs)

I wipe the face of the engine case side clean and apply oil to the O ring.

Ninja_Oil_Change_18.jpg

install the completed filter assembly and torque.

Ninja_Oil_Change_19.jpg

After the oil has completely drained out, install the engine oil drain plug with a new gasket. Torque bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs.

Fill the engine to the upper level line in the sight glass with a good quality engine oil specified in the owners manual.

Do this with the bike sitting absolutely vertical to prevent overfilling. Bike holds about 1.7-1.8 qts., but underfill it by a little bit, then run the bike, then top off. It's best to work up to the fill mark instead of overfilling and having to take oil out. Ask me how I know!!

You do not want to run with the bike overfilled with oil. You run the risk of engine damage with an overfilled engine. Please be very careful get the oil level between the lines in the sight glass. I usually fill mine to the upper fill mark on the sight glass.

The only way to get an accurate oil level reading is with the bike in an absolute vertical position... not on its sidestand.


Ninja_Oil_Change_20.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_21.jpg

Start the engine

run engine for a few minutes then turn off. let sit for a few minutes.

Check the oil level and for oil leakage.

oil level after starting the engine and turning it off. see how much it's dropped?

I then filled the oil back up to the upper line, started the engine for a few minutes, stopped it and let it rest again and this was the oil level after doing so.

Ninja_Oil_Change_22.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_23.jpg

That's it... it may look a bit more complicated than it really is, but take your time and you'll be able to change your own oil often and cheaply.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 05:08 PM   #3
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Thanks for posting Kelly!

Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!
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Old December 15th, 2008, 07:18 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by noche_caliente View Post
any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!
Odd... I've never had that problem. Do you have the bike on the rear stand when you change the oil?
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Old December 15th, 2008, 09:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noche_caliente View Post
Thanks for posting Kelly!

Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!
I am curious... is this build up found only on the Left fairing? Because if it is, I thought it was oil from crankcase too, but it turned out to be my Repsol chain lube. That thing flings everywhere.

edit: sorry I misread your post. But I never had the problem when taking off the filter housing. Did you let the oil completely drain first from the drain bolt plug?
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Old December 15th, 2008, 09:10 PM   #6
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...turned out to be my Repsol chain lube. That thing flings everywhere.
Maxima Chain Wax.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 09:20 PM   #7
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Maxima Chain Wax.
Well in that Chain Lube discussion, I switched over to Bel Ray Super Clean. Dries on leaving a white layer. So far its pretty good. As soon as the that can is done I'll try Maxima Chain wax because you are like my YODA (I can see how green suits you). So I trust your judgment in most areas. Almost all except for the green bikes being faster. Blacks the fastest.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 09:27 PM   #8
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Nice attention to detail! I'm thinking on my next oil change I'm going to pick up a gallon of Rotella. Everyone seems to like it and it's way cheaper then quarts of Mobil 1.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 09:31 PM   #9
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Nice attention to detail! I'm thinking on my next oil change I'm going to pick up a gallon of Rotella. Everyone seems to like it and it's way cheaper then quarts of Mobil 1.
Yeah, it's been working great for me. This is the second change with the synthetic and I really like the stuff. I know Walmart carries it... hope it's still cheap.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 09:56 PM   #10
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Sweet, I can use the leftover filter I have the the Ninja in my new CBR.

Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
Kawasaki: 16099-003
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Old December 18th, 2008, 09:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noche_caliente View Post
Thanks for posting Kelly!

Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me!
You warned me about this but it didnt happen to me while changing my oil on the side stand.

Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle.
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Old December 18th, 2008, 10:04 AM   #12
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Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle.
Is this your first oil change? Bolt could have been overtightened from the factory.

I use a combination box wrench on the bolt to hold the nut securely and then give it a quick rap with the palm of my hand to "break" the nut loose. The extra length of the combo wrench makes breaking the nut loose easier. After it's cracked, I then use a ratchet and socket to remove... or in the case of the oil filter plate, I just unscrew it by hand.
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Old December 18th, 2008, 08:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJD022588 View Post
You warned me about this but it didnt happen to me while changing my oil on the side stand.

Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle.
We put the handle to the kid's trike over it as a breaker bar - worked pretty well to get it off!
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 01:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
Is this your first oil change? Bolt could have been overtightened from the factory.

I use a combination box wrench on the bolt to hold the nut securely and then give it a quick rap with the palm of my hand to "break" the nut loose. The extra length of the combo wrench makes breaking the nut loose easier. After it's cracked, I then use a ratchet and socket to remove... or in the case of the oil filter plate, I just unscrew it by hand.
Yes this was the first, a couple weeks ago. I eventually got it off by hitting the handle of the smalls ratchet with a hammer. I tried for a good 10-15 minutes before that and the palm of my hand was bruised the next day. Must have been overtightened from factory.


Quote:
Originally Posted by noche_caliente View Post
We put the handle to the kid's trike over it as a breaker bar - worked pretty well to get it off!
Or you could have tied it to the back of the trike and had him get a head start.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 02:06 AM   #15
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Yes this was the first, a couple weeks ago. I eventually got it off by hitting the handle of the smalls ratchet with a hammer. I tried for a good 10-15 minutes before that and the palm of my hand was bruised the next day. Must have been overtightened from factory.



yeah, which is why I suggest a combo box wrench as they are usually longer (more leverage) than the regular wrenches or ratchets. Careful hitting the ratchets with the hammer... you could cause damage to the mechanism inside the ratchet. However, if you are using Craftsman ratchets, hit away.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 02:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
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yeah, which is why I suggest a combo box wrench as they are usually longer (more leverage) than the regular wrenches or ratchets. Careful hitting the ratchets with the hammer... you could cause damage to the mechanism inside the ratchet. However, if you are using Craftsman ratchets, hit away.
Haha, true. This was just a household ratchet that someone donated to our apartment and it was all I had at the time. We were lucky enough to have a 17mm socket.

When I go back down to school, im bringing my tools with me. A set of 1/2" drive sockets with a 14" ratchet. I still dont own one of my own breaker bars though. My torque wrench might help too.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:02 PM   #17
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Quick question: Is it a problem to have an oil different from 10W-40? I was told by a mechanic at a local Yamaha dealership I get tune-ups and such from that I should use 20W-50. From what I can tell, it's supposed to be better for high-RPM engines. Is that right?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 12:31 AM   #18
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Does it get over 104*F there? if so, you might want to consider it. Consult your owner's manual for the oil that will work in your local weather temp conditions.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 08:32 PM   #19
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Great Kkim thanks to you and your DIY i just had the most expensive oil change in the history of oil changes..It ended up costing somewhere around $400...i had to buy everything from stands to a drain pan. The good news is the oil change went just fine and i wont have to pay for any of that stuff ever again! Thanks for the write up!
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Old March 16th, 2009, 08:44 PM   #20
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lol... I consider tools an investment in future projects, so those costs will be amortized over the rest of your life (or however long the tool lasts ). I have tools that I purchased over 40 years ago that I've used countless times for the many tasks I've done during that period. We all need to start somewhere.

Be honest, now that you've done your own oil change, do you think you'll ever pay someone else to do such a simple chore? Plus, doesn't it feel good knowing it was done right?

Congrats on gettin' her done!
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Old March 16th, 2009, 09:02 PM   #21
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it definetly does feel good...i would already be doing them on my car but i dont feel like getting underneath it! its also nice getting to know the bike a little better. it makes me a little more confident to get a little deeper into the motor. by the way i hope the first couple lines got your heart going a little bit i figured you'd think something got screwed up bad!
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Old March 16th, 2009, 09:05 PM   #22
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lol... I was expecting you to tell us that you took it to the dealer for the oil change.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 09:45 PM   #23
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Great DIY. How often do you clean the oil screen? Would you like me to take a few pics of the process for you to add to your diy?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 10:07 PM   #24
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Thanks... Please do. I have never cleaned my screen.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 10:35 PM   #25
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Thanks for that. I think the max temp around here is somewhere around 110 degrees(f), and it rarely gets below freezing. I actually don't have an owner's manual (DANG IT!). I guess that's the price you pay for being the third owner and buying from a private seller! You wouldn't happen to have a massive zerox version of that too would you?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 11:02 PM   #26
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Nope, no owner's manual, but they are available through the Kawasaki web site.

I have not checked, but I'm pretty sure the oil info is in the service manual if you have one.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 11:14 PM   #27
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I just checked the service manual, and it says 10W-40. It doesn't say anything about variances for temps. Should I exchange for 10W-40?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 11:47 PM   #28
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in the owner's manual, it says that 10w-40 is for 14 deg to 104 deg.
20w-50 is for 32 deg to 104(+) deg. if it does get to below freezing at times... and over 104 deg, then maybe you should use 10w-50?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 11:47 PM   #29
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no. The dealer was giving you some good advice based on your local temps. In the owners manual it lists a host of different weight s of oils and the temp range they are good for. the 20-50 he is recommending are for temps above 104*.
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Old March 17th, 2009, 12:09 AM   #30
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Ok cool. Thanks for the info. I need to get me one of those owner's manuals!

Oil change tomorrow!
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Old April 6th, 2009, 10:37 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
Some oil filter part numbers that will work in the previous gen and new gen bikes. They use the same oil filter.

Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.)
CarQuest: CFI-89941
Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings)
Fram: CH6012
Hastings: LF571
Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
Kawasaki: 16099-003
K&N: KN-401
NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941)
Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501)
Purolator: ML16812
STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.)
Triumph: 1210031
Vesrah: SF-4004
WIX: 24941
Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00
Another one to add:

Hiflofiltro: HF401


http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639
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Old April 6th, 2009, 02:00 PM   #32
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Another one to add:

Hiflofiltro: HF401


http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639
from another 250 site... use at your own risk.


As most cartridge-type filters are more or less the same, any of the above filters will be of good quality. There is, however, one brand of filter which several club members DON'T recommend. That is HiFloFiltro. As reported, it takes longer for the oil pressure light to go out after starting than with other filters. One member reported that at 3000 miles it started shifting funny, and the oil light stayed on longer than normal. His second Hi-Flo did the same thing at a little over 3000 miles. Other filters can go many more miles without these symptoms showing up.
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Old April 6th, 2009, 03:01 PM   #33
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from another 250 site... use at your own risk.


As most cartridge-type filters are more or less the same, any of the above filters will be of good quality. There is, however, one brand of filter which several club members DON'T recommend. That is HiFloFiltro. As reported, it takes longer for the oil pressure light to go out after starting than with other filters. One member reported that at 3000 miles it started shifting funny, and the oil light stayed on longer than normal. His second Hi-Flo did the same thing at a little over 3000 miles. Other filters can go many more miles without these symptoms showing up.
I see. I've heard the same thing for FRAM where people were saying not to use them either. I gave them a chance recently due to the convenience that Rotella T was sold at Wal-Mart and they carry only Fram filters. Not sure if it was the guy who changed it (I let them do it just b/c I was already having work done on the bike) or the filter itself, but I seem to have a slow leak from underneath. I'll double check if it's just not tightened enough later on.
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Old April 6th, 2009, 03:06 PM   #34
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I have read of too many problems with Fram filters that I gave up using them many years ago. Interesting enough, I happen to work for the company that owns Fram... what does that tell you?
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Old April 6th, 2009, 03:26 PM   #35
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Interesting enough, I happen to work for the company that owns Fram... what does that tell you?
what!? duuude wth!?
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Old April 8th, 2009, 01:56 PM   #36
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So I went out to buy oil and a filter today for my bike, and I was gonna change it this afternoon, but NO ONE has the right filter...WTF!?!? Not to mention that no one had plain 'ole 10W-40 Synth Oil either. Not even Wal-mart, I was enraged.
I never heard about that FRAM issue before. We've solely used their filters for more than a decade in all our cars and never have we once had an issue.
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Old April 8th, 2009, 02:00 PM   #37
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Very nice DIY post. Thanks.
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Old April 8th, 2009, 02:15 PM   #38
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http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
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Old April 15th, 2009, 09:58 PM   #39
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So do you check the oil level while the motor is running with the bike vertical? The oil fills the entire sight glass when the engine is off...running it is in the higher middle portion between the lines, is that ok?
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Old April 15th, 2009, 09:59 PM   #40
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engine should be off. Bike vertical.
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