July 23rd, 2012, 02:37 PM | #161 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Jason
Location: Norfolk, VA
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.
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Rotella T6 has the right additives for the wet clutch.
I'm not sure your castrol is right... the other thing is i would not use any oil with less than a 40 weight in a ninja. |
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July 23rd, 2012, 04:01 PM | #162 |
YMCMBillionaire
Name: Kyle
Location: Tulsa, OK
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R(Wrecked&Gone), 2004 Honda CBR1000RR (Trading back to dealer for 600cc) Posts: 81
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I use Repsol Full Synthetic Race oil..... (No one laugh at me... I personally chose it.)
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July 23rd, 2012, 07:03 PM | #163 |
crash 250, get supersport
Name: Richard
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.
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I used Amsoil 10w-40 on my first oil change and finally found a gallon jug of Rotella T6 this week and will be using that for my next 2 oil changes.
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July 23rd, 2012, 07:04 PM | #164 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Jason
Location: Norfolk, VA
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.
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July 24th, 2012, 02:43 AM | #165 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Max
Location: UK
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja EX250 K8F Posts: 89
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I found that receipt (thank god, it cost me £35). I'll try return it a look elsewhere for oil like a bike shop :P
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July 24th, 2012, 07:26 PM | #166 |
YMCMBillionaire
Name: Kyle
Location: Tulsa, OK
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R(Wrecked&Gone), 2004 Honda CBR1000RR (Trading back to dealer for 600cc) Posts: 81
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I have no idea hahah I get the 4 Liter Racing one for like 60. plus tax.
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July 24th, 2012, 07:49 PM | #167 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 2
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I wouldn't push using Rotella T-6 past 4k miles. I would say change it at 2-3k miles. I'll find out for sure when I send off my next sample at 3k miles to get tested.
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July 24th, 2012, 08:41 PM | #168 |
crash 250, get supersport
Name: Richard
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.
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About how long did it take for your oil kit to come in from Blackstone? I just placed a request for one and plan on doing an oil change the week after next, it'll be with Amsoil at around 3.2k miles.
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July 24th, 2012, 09:48 PM | #169 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 2
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It took about a week. They'll email you the report as well as send you a paper copy of the report when it's done.
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HalfFast Racing Team Serving Greater Houston Area Riders:WFO Riders MotoHouston HPC CMRA Ride Smart Fastline Lone Star Track Days |
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July 25th, 2012, 02:36 PM | #170 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Morgan
Location: A city twinned with Kawasaki
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, 2010 STR 675 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Bike oils are designed for wet clutch, car oils have detergents & friction reduction additives in them which can cause the clutch to slip. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/4-stroke-oils This link should give you an idea of prices. And Shell Rotella is not available on this side of the Atlantic. |
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July 27th, 2012, 09:13 AM | #171 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Max
Location: UK
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja EX250 K8F Posts: 89
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Sorry to post again, really sure this is the right one onow, but i want to ask, incase i mess my expensive bike up.
This one is 4t 10w40 castrol power1 racing fully synthetic thats okright, it for motorcycles aswell. |
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July 27th, 2012, 11:16 AM | #172 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Steve
Location: Valdosta GA, US
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 2006 Ninja ZX6R-636 Posts: 661
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power1_racing If that is the product you have then yes it is for motorcycles.
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July 27th, 2012, 11:41 AM | #173 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Max
Location: UK
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja EX250 K8F Posts: 89
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Sweet, did the oil change along with the filter, everything seems alright...for now. Ive noticed when i turn the engine on and look at the gauage, it empties, is that surpose to happen? But whewn the engine is off, its at normal level.
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July 27th, 2012, 11:56 AM | #174 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Steve
Location: Valdosta GA, US
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 2006 Ninja ZX6R-636 Posts: 661
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Quote:
Oil is cycling through the engine via oil pump when running. Once shutoff the oil is not being pumped through the engine resulting in it settling and being able to read the level in the sight glass. |
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February 8th, 2013, 08:17 PM | #175 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Martin
Location: California
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250r Posts: 291
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Any of you guys using this oil?
I have an 09 with just over 6,000 miles and have been using regular Kawi 10w40 oil in it and considering upping to synthetic. I came upon a good deal for some Motul 7100 (10w40) 100% Synthese oil for a good deal. Are any of you guys running this in your ninjette and if so, what differences have you felt since upgrading? Thanks in advance for any replies.
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February 8th, 2013, 08:46 PM | #176 |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16
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I have never used that one.
Just be aware that energy conserving oils could damage your clutch. Check this link: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
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February 8th, 2013, 09:16 PM | #177 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Brad
Location: Sydney
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r 2010 SE Posts: 573
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I run motul v300. The best they sell. You won't notice any differences except when you pull the engine apart; you don't even need gloves cos its so clean.
Now considering that I still bought some more to put in. |
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February 9th, 2013, 12:06 PM | #178 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Morgan
Location: A city twinned with Kawasaki
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, 2010 STR 675 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 1
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Motul is one of the best brands you can get, so as long as it's a bike specific oil you should be fine.
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February 9th, 2013, 04:55 PM | #179 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Jason
Location: Norfolk, VA
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.
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Like motul but switched to rotella because of the cost
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February 9th, 2013, 05:17 PM | #180 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brian
Location: Atlanta
Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250 Ninja Posts: 179
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I used to run Motul 300v sport 4t in my KLX, but at $70+ a gallon it got to be too much. Noticed a significant increase in acceleration due to the empty wallet though!
I now run Delo 400 SAE30 in the KLX and Delvac 1300 in the Ninja. I am going to try the Delo in the Ninja this spring. |
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February 10th, 2013, 11:41 PM | #181 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Martin
Location: California
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250r Posts: 291
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I went ahead and picked up a few quartz of it so'll be giving it a try. It doesn't say anything about Energy Conserving so I guess it's safe to use. No I just need a some time to do the oil change. Thanks for the replies guys!
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February 11th, 2013, 12:29 AM | #182 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Domagoj
Location: Rijeka, Croatia
Join Date: Aug 2010 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r 2009 Posts: 396
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I've been using 7100 for 2 years now. Seems to be working ok.
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February 11th, 2013, 12:38 AM | #183 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Martin
Location: California
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250r Posts: 291
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February 11th, 2013, 01:44 AM | #184 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dave
Location: Sacramento
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r Posts: 29
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I've been using Repsol racing synth 10w40 for the last 17k miles.. about $18/qt. Been working great for me.
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February 11th, 2013, 02:07 AM | #185 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: scott
Location: australia
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 ninja 250r se Posts: 435
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only use Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 now
Before: Motorcycle Dealer: Motul 3100 4t break-in oil - engine sounded rough - 0 - 1000kms Motorcycle Dealer: Motul 5100 4t lubricant based on Ester-Technology - sounded like gudgin rattle. The bike was just not happy at all. 1000 - 1500kms Me: Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 since 1500kms the bike sounds smooth like it should with good clutch action. Really want to try Silkoline Pro 4 Range Oil With the second Dealer service coming up See what happens after the service |
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February 11th, 2013, 04:45 PM | #186 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Morgan
Location: A city twinned with Kawasaki
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, 2010 STR 675 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 1
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Quote:
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February 11th, 2013, 05:44 PM | #189 |
CVMA #74 WSMC #750
Name: Nemesis
Location: On the track
Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): All of them Posts: A lot.
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I switched to it and haven't noticed the difference but I do like the "green" double ester which defines the oil level very noticeable/readable/etc . We raffled quite a few of them last round in our races.
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February 11th, 2013, 06:00 PM | #190 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Brad
Location: Sydney
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r 2010 SE Posts: 573
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Putting an oil with a better co efficiant of friction will make an engine last longer. its common sense. Less friction creates less wear on your clearances.
Also, Alex you have no idea that your engine would have blown if you had put motul v300 in there over another oil because there is no way to prove this. period. |
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February 11th, 2013, 06:01 PM | #191 |
Ninjette Fanboy
Name: HB
Location: Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja250 Posts: 307
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I have heard that Amsoil is good. I put in Amsoil 10W-40 about 1000 miles ago. Not sure if it makes any difference for regular everyday commuting.
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February 11th, 2013, 07:06 PM | #192 | |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 5
MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14
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Quote:
also, it had v300 in it when it blew the transmission, and again when it blew the crank. i dont use motul anymore because its too expensive.
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February 11th, 2013, 11:14 PM | #193 | ||
ninjette.org sage
Name: Brad
Location: Sydney
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r 2010 SE Posts: 573
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Quote:
Quote:
Yes I agree that it is expensive and I am considering a change because clean oil is more important than quality/price, changing every 1300 miles aint cheap. |
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February 11th, 2013, 11:35 PM | #194 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Bob
Location: NY
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 2009 Ninja 250 Posts: 730
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Not sure if this helps but I recently switched to my bikes to
Coupled with a KN filter , I can say my bike feels smoother. Can't say I feel that difference in my car. Maybe cause I don't rev it to 13k....
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2010 Red Ninja 250 2009 Black Ninja 250 -If you ride like lightning,you're gonna crash like thunder- |
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April 3rd, 2013, 11:26 AM | #195 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Dan
Location: NY
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Special Edition Posts: 3
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CAM2 SuperPro Plus 10W-40 Motor Oil
Hey guys. i'm new to the forums. I just got a 2010 Special Edition late last summer and i'm ready for my first oil change. i'm sure this has been addressed a million times, but the search function doesnt seem to be working on this site.
My question is whether CAM2 SuperPro Plus Synthetic Blend 10W-40 is safe to use in the bike? The service manual calls for API SE, SF, or SG. This oil is API SM which is newer than those ratings. Since its designed for automotive engines, I just figured I would ask you opinion before putting it in. Not sure if I need to go fully synthetic or go with something designed for motorcycles since its much higher revving than a car. thanks for the help. |
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April 3rd, 2013, 11:32 AM | #196 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE, '15 CRF110F, '13 TT-R50E Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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Some info here:
http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil It would likely be fine, as long as it's not marked as an "energy-conserving" oil. Synthetic or not, those that are intended for energy conserving have additives that can cause clutch slippage. I added "oil" as a 3-letter word that should be searchable, but it isn't working as of yet until I rebuild the index. In the meantime, if you click on the google search option in that same pull-down menu, there are no such limitations.
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April 3rd, 2013, 11:37 AM | #197 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Dan
Location: NY
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Special Edition Posts: 3
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great. thanks for the help.
yea i was searching oil and it wasnt working. i'll try the google search option next time. |
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April 3rd, 2013, 11:40 AM | #198 |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location
Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 6
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Just make sure the API circle label does not identify it as "energy conserving" or your clutch will slip.
The image below shows what the label looks like. It is NOT a recommendation of specific oil for the Ninjette. The topic of oil has been beat to death on every motorcycle forum on the net. If you look hard enough you'll find every possible point of view vehemently defended by someone, somewhere. Wading through it all is enough to make my hair hurt and I don't have any. Bottom line: You will not go wrong if you follow manufacturer recommendations. That's the simplest, shortest answer and trumps all discussions of natural vs. synthetic, cost, brand, etc. etc. Look in the book. Do what it says. Simple. Does that mean that some oils are not better than others? No, it does not. It simply means that if you do what Kawasaki tells you to do, you won't destroy your engine. I will note that a lot of folks like Shell Rotella T, a synthetic marketed for diesel engines which is inexpensive (blue 1-gallon jug, available at Wal-Mart).
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I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem. |
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April 3rd, 2013, 11:51 AM | #199 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Dan
Location: NY
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Special Edition Posts: 3
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from what i'm reading, it seems like it doesnt really matter what oil I use as long as it meets the spec requirement and I change it often enough. I will probably do less than 1000 miles in a riding season so I'm sure even the cheap stuff will hold up. I'll just change it every year as long as im under 1500 for the season. thanks for the help
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April 3rd, 2013, 12:35 PM | #200 |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location
Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 6
MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13
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Change it every year anyway even if you don't ride much. Used oil is acidic. This is important.
My standard winterization routine: - Fill tank, put ethanol-friendly fuel stabilizer in, go ride for 20 minutes to get the stable fuel into the carbs and warm up the oil. - Change oil and filter. - Put bike on stands front and rear - Put LOWER THE KICK STAND, STUPID! sign over ignition switch so I don't drop the bike the following spring - Let some air out of tires - Plug in the battery tender - Cover the bike - Have a cup of cocoa In the spring all I have to do is pump the tires up to spec, take it off the stands and go. If you want to get anal about it you can also pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders. If you live where your winter hiatus is long, that's a pretty good idea.
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I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem. |
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