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Old July 23rd, 2012, 02:37 PM   #161
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Rotella T6 has the right additives for the wet clutch.

I'm not sure your castrol is right...

the other thing is i would not use any oil with less than a 40 weight in a ninja.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 04:01 PM   #162
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I use Repsol Full Synthetic Race oil..... (No one laugh at me... I personally chose it.)
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 07:03 PM   #163
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I used Amsoil 10w-40 on my first oil change and finally found a gallon jug of Rotella T6 this week and will be using that for my next 2 oil changes.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 07:04 PM   #164
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I use Repsol Full Synthetic Race oil..... (No one laugh at me... I personally chose it.)
how much per quart?
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Old July 24th, 2012, 02:43 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgk View Post
Rotella T6 has the right additives for the wet clutch.

I'm not sure your castrol is right...

the other thing is i would not use any oil with less than a 40 weight in a ninja.
I found that receipt (thank god, it cost me £35). I'll try return it a look elsewhere for oil like a bike shop :P
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Old July 24th, 2012, 07:26 PM   #166
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how much per quart?
I have no idea hahah I get the 4 Liter Racing one for like 60. plus tax.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 07:49 PM   #167
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I wouldn't push using Rotella T-6 past 4k miles. I would say change it at 2-3k miles. I'll find out for sure when I send off my next sample at 3k miles to get tested.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 08:41 PM   #168
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I wouldn't push using Rotella T-6 past 4k miles. I would say change it at 2-3k miles. I'll find out for sure when I send off my next sample at 3k miles to get tested.
About how long did it take for your oil kit to come in from Blackstone? I just placed a request for one and plan on doing an oil change the week after next, it'll be with Amsoil at around 3.2k miles.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 09:48 PM   #169
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About how long did it take for your oil kit to come in from Blackstone? I just placed a request for one and plan on doing an oil change the week after next, it'll be with Amsoil at around 3.2k miles.
It took about a week. They'll email you the report as well as send you a paper copy of the report when it's done.
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Old July 25th, 2012, 02:36 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reabo View Post
Preforming my first oil change. I looked at the guide and it says i need 10w40 oil.

I want to use fully Synthetic as its suppose to be best. What i wondering is whats a good brand to use, also how much would i expect to pay for it? I dont want to be ripped of thats all. Im in the uk btw.

I also bought a K&N 401n air filter
Probably a bit late to answer, but you want a good brand (Castrol, Motul ect.) semi or fully synth bike specific 10w40 oil

Bike oils are designed for wet clutch, car oils have detergents & friction reduction additives in them which can cause the clutch to slip.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/4-stroke-oils
This link should give you an idea of prices.

And Shell Rotella is not available on this side of the Atlantic.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 09:13 AM   #171
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Sorry to post again, really sure this is the right one onow, but i want to ask, incase i mess my expensive bike up.

This one is 4t 10w40 castrol power1 racing fully synthetic

thats okright, it for motorcycles aswell.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 11:16 AM   #172
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power1_racing If that is the product you have then yes it is for motorcycles.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 11:41 AM   #173
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Sweet, did the oil change along with the filter, everything seems alright...for now. Ive noticed when i turn the engine on and look at the gauage, it empties, is that surpose to happen? But whewn the engine is off, its at normal level.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 11:56 AM   #174
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Quote:
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Sweet, did the oil change along with the filter, everything seems alright...for now. Ive noticed when i turn the engine on and look at the gauage, it empties, is that surpose to happen? But whewn the engine is off, its at normal level.
That is normal for the sight glass to empty while the engine is running.

Oil is cycling through the engine via oil pump when running. Once shutoff the oil is not being pumped through the engine resulting in it settling and being able to read the level in the sight glass.
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Old February 8th, 2013, 08:17 PM   #175
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Any of you guys using this oil?

I have an 09 with just over 6,000 miles and have been using regular Kawi 10w40 oil in it and considering upping to synthetic. I came upon a good deal for some Motul 7100 (10w40) 100% Synthese oil for a good deal. Are any of you guys running this in your ninjette and if so, what differences have you felt since upgrading? Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Old February 8th, 2013, 08:46 PM   #176
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I have never used that one.

Just be aware that energy conserving oils could damage your clutch.

Check this link:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
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Old February 8th, 2013, 09:16 PM   #177
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I run motul v300. The best they sell. You won't notice any differences except when you pull the engine apart; you don't even need gloves cos its so clean.

Now considering that I still bought some more to put in.
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Old February 9th, 2013, 12:06 PM   #178
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Motul is one of the best brands you can get, so as long as it's a bike specific oil you should be fine.
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Old February 9th, 2013, 04:55 PM   #179
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Like motul but switched to rotella because of the cost
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Old February 9th, 2013, 05:17 PM   #180
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I used to run Motul 300v sport 4t in my KLX, but at $70+ a gallon it got to be too much. Noticed a significant increase in acceleration due to the empty wallet though!

I now run Delo 400 SAE30 in the KLX and Delvac 1300 in the Ninja. I am going to try the Delo in the Ninja this spring.
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Old February 10th, 2013, 11:41 PM   #181
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I went ahead and picked up a few quartz of it so'll be giving it a try. It doesn't say anything about Energy Conserving so I guess it's safe to use. No I just need a some time to do the oil change. Thanks for the replies guys!
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Old February 11th, 2013, 12:29 AM   #182
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I've been using 7100 for 2 years now. Seems to be working ok.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 12:38 AM   #183
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I've been using 7100 for 2 years now. Seems to be working ok.
Did you notice any differences in performance after switching?
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Old February 11th, 2013, 01:44 AM   #184
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I've been using Repsol racing synth 10w40 for the last 17k miles.. about $18/qt. Been working great for me.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 02:07 AM   #185
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only use Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 now

Before:

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 3100 4t break-in oil - engine sounded rough - 0 - 1000kms

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 5100 4t lubricant based on Ester-Technology - sounded like gudgin rattle. The bike was just not happy at all. 1000 - 1500kms

Me:
Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 since 1500kms the bike sounds smooth like it should with good clutch action.

Really want to try Silkoline Pro 4 Range Oil

With the second Dealer service coming up

See what happens after the service
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Old February 11th, 2013, 04:45 PM   #186
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only use Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 now

Before:

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 3100 4t break-in oil - engine sounded rough - 0 - 1000kms

Motorcycle Dealer:
Motul 5100 4t lubricant based on Ester-Technology - sounded like gudgin rattle. The bike was just not happy at all. 1000 - 1500kms

Me:
Silkoline COMP 4 10W-40 since 1500kms the bike sounds smooth like it should with good clutch action.

Really want to try Silkoline Pro 4 Range Oil

With the second Dealer service coming up

See what happens after the service
Bring 2l of Silkoline Pro 4 with ya & hand it to the dealer, tell them that's what you want put in it.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 05:41 PM   #187
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if i put motul v300 in my engines, will they still blow up?
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Old February 11th, 2013, 05:42 PM   #188
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the answer is yes. yes, they will still blow up.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 05:44 PM   #189
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I switched to it and haven't noticed the difference but I do like the "green" double ester which defines the oil level very noticeable/readable/etc . We raffled quite a few of them last round in our races.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 06:00 PM   #190
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Putting an oil with a better co efficiant of friction will make an engine last longer. its common sense. Less friction creates less wear on your clearances.

Also, Alex you have no idea that your engine would have blown if you had put motul v300 in there over another oil because there is no way to prove this. period.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 06:01 PM   #191
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I have heard that Amsoil is good. I put in Amsoil 10W-40 about 1000 miles ago. Not sure if it makes any difference for regular everyday commuting.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 07:06 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubarney View Post
Putting an oil with a better co efficiant of friction will make an engine last longer. its common sense. Less friction creates less wear on your clearances.

Also, Alex you have no idea that your engine would have blown if you had put motul v300 in there over another oil because there is no way to prove this. period.
the friction coefficient isn't the only factor. there are tons and tons of differences between oils. like the amount of lithium in the oil as a 'last resort' stop gap in cases of unexpected knocks or what not. im not even going to get into the friction demands from the clutch which would easily slip and burn itself through if you were to put in an oil with too low of a friction coefficient.


also, it had v300 in it when it blew the transmission, and again when it blew the crank. i dont use motul anymore because its too expensive.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 11:14 PM   #193
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the friction coefficient isn't the only factor. there are tons and tons of differences between oils. like the amount of lithium in the oil as a 'last resort' stop gap in cases of unexpected knocks or what not. im not even going to get into the friction demands from the clutch which would easily slip and burn itself through if you were to put in an oil with too low of a friction coefficient.
I didn't want to get into that. Too many things to cover when it comes to oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
also, it had v300 in it when it blew the transmission, and again when it blew the crank. i dont use motul anymore because its too expensive.
Now obviously just because you put good oil into your engine doesn't mean it aint ever going to s*** itself. Oil isn't the reason behind every failure. But good oil may have lessened the damage or prevented it for a period of time. Is that worth the extra cash? who knows.

Yes I agree that it is expensive and I am considering a change because clean oil is more important than quality/price, changing every 1300 miles aint cheap.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 11:35 PM   #194
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Not sure if this helps but I recently switched to my bikes to
Coupled with a KN filter , I can say my bike feels smoother. Can't say I feel that difference in my car. Maybe cause I don't rev it to 13k....
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:26 AM   #195
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CAM2 SuperPro Plus 10W-40 Motor Oil

Hey guys. i'm new to the forums. I just got a 2010 Special Edition late last summer and i'm ready for my first oil change. i'm sure this has been addressed a million times, but the search function doesnt seem to be working on this site.

My question is whether CAM2 SuperPro Plus Synthetic Blend 10W-40 is safe to use in the bike? The service manual calls for API SE, SF, or SG. This oil is API SM which is newer than those ratings. Since its designed for automotive engines, I just figured I would ask you opinion before putting it in. Not sure if I need to go fully synthetic or go with something designed for motorcycles since its much higher revving than a car. thanks for the help.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:32 AM   #196
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Some info here:

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

It would likely be fine, as long as it's not marked as an "energy-conserving" oil. Synthetic or not, those that are intended for energy conserving have additives that can cause clutch slippage.

I added "oil" as a 3-letter word that should be searchable, but it isn't working as of yet until I rebuild the index. In the meantime, if you click on the google search option in that same pull-down menu, there are no such limitations.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:37 AM   #197
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great. thanks for the help.

yea i was searching oil and it wasnt working. i'll try the google search option next time.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:40 AM   #198
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Just make sure the API circle label does not identify it as "energy conserving" or your clutch will slip.

The image below shows what the label looks like. It is NOT a recommendation of specific oil for the Ninjette.



The topic of oil has been beat to death on every motorcycle forum on the net. If you look hard enough you'll find every possible point of view vehemently defended by someone, somewhere. Wading through it all is enough to make my hair hurt and I don't have any.

Bottom line: You will not go wrong if you follow manufacturer recommendations. That's the simplest, shortest answer and trumps all discussions of natural vs. synthetic, cost, brand, etc. etc. Look in the book. Do what it says. Simple.

Does that mean that some oils are not better than others? No, it does not. It simply means that if you do what Kawasaki tells you to do, you won't destroy your engine.

I will note that a lot of folks like Shell Rotella T, a synthetic marketed for diesel engines which is inexpensive (blue 1-gallon jug, available at Wal-Mart).
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:51 AM   #199
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from what i'm reading, it seems like it doesnt really matter what oil I use as long as it meets the spec requirement and I change it often enough. I will probably do less than 1000 miles in a riding season so I'm sure even the cheap stuff will hold up. I'll just change it every year as long as im under 1500 for the season. thanks for the help
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 12:35 PM   #200
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Change it every year anyway even if you don't ride much. Used oil is acidic. This is important.

My standard winterization routine:

- Fill tank, put ethanol-friendly fuel stabilizer in, go ride for 20 minutes to get the stable fuel into the carbs and warm up the oil.

- Change oil and filter.

- Put bike on stands front and rear

- Put LOWER THE KICK STAND, STUPID! sign over ignition switch so I don't drop the bike the following spring

- Let some air out of tires

- Plug in the battery tender

- Cover the bike

- Have a cup of cocoa

In the spring all I have to do is pump the tires up to spec, take it off the stands and go.

If you want to get anal about it you can also pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders. If you live where your winter hiatus is long, that's a pretty good idea.
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