Broke the shift rod on a lowside help?

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Nope. I haven't been on a track in a few years now.

Ah bummer

[daverdfw]

got some of the green plastigage .001 to .003 measurement.

[JohnnyBravo]

That's some useful stuff

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

got some of the green plastigage .001 to .003 measurement.

Clean the sealer off the case halves and put a piece of plastigage across the cranke and torque it down. Make sure not to spin the crank. Make a note of where the factory applied the RTV sealer so you know where to put the new stuff .

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Clean the sealer off the case halves and put a piece of plastigage across the cranke and torque it down. Make sure not to spin the crank. Make a note of where the factory applied the RTV sealer so you know where to put the new stuff .

Should I do the balancer shaft too?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

Should I do the balancer shaft too?

Sorry to see all this deep surgery.

You may need this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111031

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

..........I'm not a 100% expert on this so a second or third opinion would be good. @Motofool

Sorry, I am late.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Sorry to see all this deep surgery.

You may need this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111031



Sorry, I am late.

I have a few different torque wrenches

[daverdfw]

so when I was taking the cylinder head bolts off it took a little bit of muscle, I am reading through the FSM about re-assembly and it says to only use 18 ft-lb to re install. Does that seem correct?

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

so when I was taking the cylinder head bolts off it took a little bit of muscle, I am reading through the FSM about re-assembly and it says to only use 18 ft-lb to re install. Does that seem correct?

It's either that or 24ft. Lbs. I'll check tomorrow morning, all my infos at the shop. Check the balance shaft clearance too,

[Racer x]

Yes do the balancer also. The whole oil system is like a sealed system. If there is a gap in the balancer clearance then the pressure will be lower somplace else.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Yes do the balancer also. The whole oil system is like a sealed system. If there is a gap in the balancer clearance then the pressure will be lower somplace else.

Makes sense. I have just been going into the garage and looking at everything disassembled. It seems to make sense. And reading the FSM about when reinstalling the crank and cams and lining everything up so it's in time. Seems pretty straight forward. I will post up some pics tomorrow after I get the case and clean it and then test the bearing clearances.

[bruce71198]

18ft lbs on the 250 head bolts. 24ft lbs on the 300. I new I got that somewhere. The 300 uses a different cylinder design that's probably why the different spec. The bolts are the same and I have used the higher spec even on the 250.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

18ft lbs on the 250 head bolts. 24ft lbs on the 300. I new I got that somewhere. The 300 uses a different cylinder design that's probably why the different spec. The bolts are the same and I have used the higher spec even on the 250.

ok cool, one of the bolt heads looked a little rounded, but I tested it in the old case and was able to torque it just fine. I have 2 on order just in case, last thing I wanna do is strip that bolt.

[daverdfw]

in the manual it says to lube up certain places with a moly grease, any kind you guys suggest? I see a pricy loctite one, and then just like old school grease.

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

in the manual it says to lube up certain places with a moly grease, any kind you guys suggest? I see a pricy loctite one, and then just like old school grease.

Get some engine assembly lube, with molybdenum in it, from the parts store.
Usually comes in a squeeze tube and not real expensive. You'll use this on the bearings as well on final assembly.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Get some engine assembly lube, with molybdenum in it, from the parts store.
Usually comes in a squeeze tube and not real expensive. You'll use this on the bearings as well on final assembly.

Smear it on the bearings (THINLY!) and add a drop or two of engine oil. It's the shiz!

[Racer x]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Smear it on the bearings (THINLY!) and add a drop or two of engine oil. It's the shiz!

I like to mix up a batch in a small cup or can lid and use a brush or finger tk smear it around.

[daverdfw]

Got the case. It has blue markings in it

[daverdfw]

so the case color marks are different, but the bearing colors are the same,, the crank ones had yellow paint, the balancer has blue.

looks like this came from a bike with a top end issue, lots of copper shards in the bottom of the case. Looks like I will spend a lot of time with brake parts cleaner and compressed air cleaning this thing thoroughly.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

so the case color marks are different, but the bearing colors are the same,, the crank ones had yellow paint, the balancer has blue.

looks like this came from a bike with a top end issue, lots of copper shards in the bottom of the case. Looks like I will spend a lot of time with brake parts cleaner and compressed air cleaning this thing thoroughly.

Copper is usually indicative of a bearing issue in the bottom end. My guess would be a big end rod bearing spun. There isn't really any copper in the top end. The top end cam bearing surface is the aluminum head itself.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Copper is usually indicative of a bearing issue in the bottom end. My guess would be a big end rod bearing spun. There isn't really any copper in the top end. The top end cam bearing surface is the aluminum head itself.

hmm let me take a closer look at the bearings

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

hmm let me take a closer look at the bearings

Probably won't find anything since you didn't get the crank with it but it's good to look at the bearings for damage or wear. Since this person was selling the cases, the crank is probably toast.

If you want a second opinion, post up some pics.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Probably won't find anything since you didn't get the crank with it but it's good to look at the bearings for damage or wear. Since this person was selling the cases, the crank is probably toast.

If you want a second opinion, post up some pics.

so the only damage i noticed is this hole next to where the oil screen and cover go on, but it looks like it is empty, nothing goes in it. All of the bearings look ok to me, nothing obvious as far as damage.

[daverdfw]

so even with the case colors being off, but the bearing colors are the same and since I am going to swap bearings from my old case, am I ok to proceed?

[Racer x]

Yup. Just clean and measure

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Yup. Just clean and measure

ok, lots and lots of brake cleaner here i come!

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Yup. Just clean and measure

is the one bent hole going to be an issue? I don't think it will be

[Racer x]

I don't think so. Just run a file lightly across the serface to restore the gasket serface.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

ok, lots and lots of brake cleaner here i come!

Use a sharp and rigid edge and keep it parallel to the matting surfaces.
The surfaces are very soft; be careful not to scratch it.

If the remaining gasket is hard, no fluid is needed to remove the gross of the material.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Use a sharp and rigid edge and keep it parallel to the matting surfaces.
The surfaces are very soft; be careful not to scratch it.

If the remaining gasket is hard, no fluid is needed to remove the gross of the material.

I have some razor blades I can use

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

I have some razor blades I can use

I prefer using a new blade of a box cutter; it is more rigid and less sharp.
Avoid smelling too much of brake cleaner; WD-40 is good to remove carbon deposits, like from the head of the pistons.

[daverdfw]

Thanks everyone ! I am in the process of cleaning it. I assume in order to heck clearance I can just do a dry fit then take it apart and lube everything up

[Racer x]

That is about it. I just fit it all up dry and only use the big bolts to get the measurements. Being careful not to rotate anything

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by Racer x

That is about it. I just fit it all up dry and only use the big bolts to get the measurements. Being careful not to rotate anything

Ah ok so I don't have to put all the 10mm bolts back in. Just the 12mm big ones ?

[daverdfw]

ok I feel like I have everything clean enough, here are some pics.

[RacinNinja]

Take compressed air and clean it more. Get every little fiber and piece of lint off the bearing areas and inside the cases. Blow out every passage to be sure they're clear.

Otherwise, good progress!

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Take compressed air and clean it more. Get every little fiber and piece of lint off the bearing areas and inside the cases. Blow out every passage to be sure they're clear.

Otherwise, good progress!

Ok will do. Then Iwill swap the bearings over and leave the rest of the case empty and use some of the moly I got from the store to install the bearings and use plastigage on the crank and balancer

[RacinNinja]

Don't use any moly whatsoever until you plastigage.

Assemble it dry. Check. Then lube.

[daverdfw]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Don't use any moly whatsoever until you plastigage.

Assemble it dry. Check. Then lube.

Ok will do !

So when I install using the molly. Do I use it between the bearing and case or between the bearing and crank journal ?

[Racer x]

Yes tk cleaning and blowing everything g out with compressed air. Clean clean clean is the way of the worrior.

Assemble everything dry with the plastiguage and be careful not to let anything turn at all.

Then put just leave the bearing shells in the case(hopefully) unless the measurements are off. Then you use Molly lube on the crank and the counter bearings.

I use an oil can worn a pump handle thing to squirt oil on the trans and all over the parts . Being careful to avoid any seal serface on the case half.