DIY: koso gauge install

[dubojr1]

What would be the difference in temperatures reading from the main line vs. reading at the oil pan?

[Somchai]

Hello Jason,

the difference is round about 10 deg. C or 50 deg. F beetween the oil-pan and the main-stream at my bike.
At the oil-pan before I'd see 80 to 87 deg. C and now in the main-line I see 84 to 97 deg. celsius. The low measurement is when I drive because my bike has an oilcooler, but at least all this temperatures are ok because they stay below 120 deg. celsius. I'm using Motul 300V Racing Oil 15W50 and this could go up to 150 deg. in celsius.
Have a nice day.

[dubojr1]

But wouldn't it more important to know the temperature of the oil going into the engine rather than knowing the temperature of the oil leaving the engine?

[Somchai]

You are right, the best would be to know the temperature of the oil going into the engine and therefore the most best place to measure would be the oilfilter. But to do so you have to rebuild it and who will do? For racing purpose you would rebuild but not so while use the motorcycle on the street only.
The most important temperature of the engine oil is the cold area, never go to high revs when the temperature is below 80 degree and slow down when it's above 120 or 160 degree (the high temperature depends on the quality).

[dubojr1]

Well I actually installed mine just below the oil filter with the extra drain plug located there. Some have put it in the standard drain plug (where it is installed below) but that makes oil changes difficult. Here's a pic for a better understanding.

[teppistella]

Hi all you experts, Teppi the noob here with a question. I just received my custom bracket and voltmeter from W. Husband is doing installation, and can't figure out how to connect it to our Koso RX2. Connecting the negative wire was not a problem, but he can't figure out which where to connect the positive to. Instructions diagram seems to say to connect it to the battery via the key, but he can't figure out which wire that is, since for the speedo we have the plug and play kit.

Sorry for the poor explanation; I am mechanically challenged, and he is English language challenged... otherwise I would have asked him to type this query directly himself! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

[wayanlam]

i can check on my bike when i get it back from the body shop if you dont get an answer before then. make sure its a live 12v wire, and really make sure that it is OFF when you switch the key off...

they wired it wrong on my bike when i first got it and it drained my battery (push starting the ninjette aint fun

after it was rewired properly i never had a problem again.

W.

[Kangxi]

this thread redefines epic! here's a quick break for anyone trying to grind through...



and now, back to business

[teppistella]

Originally Posted by wayanlam

i can check on my bike when i get it back from the body shop if you dont get an answer before then. make sure its a live 12v wire, and really make sure that it is OFF when you switch the key off...

they wired it wrong on my bike when i first got it and it drained my battery (push starting the ninjette aint fun

after it was rewired properly i never had a problem again.

W.

I actually found the answer (it was the brown wire) on another forum, one of Racer X's old posts. So no need to go through all that trouble, thanks for the kind offer though!

Cheers, e Ciao!

[psych0hans]

My bike doesn't come with a fuel meter... Would it be possible to add one as an add on with the koso guage?

[wayanlam]

im not sure, but the EFI model might not have a level sensor, but just a Low fuel sensor (probably cheaper, lol)

so the signal would just either be Full, or Low, which is when the light would turn on?

to make the koso fuel level work you would need the carburated ninja model fuel sensor.

but... i could be wrong. best to check part numbers to compare between the two bikes i guess.

[psych0hans]

Actually that's what I wanted to know... Can I buy a fuel meter off a carb model ninja and fit it in my efi ninja?

[silversteinjosh]

Hey guys. I have everything connected and somehow the brights arent registering with the koso rx2. its as if they arent even there. which disables me from being able to change the color and turn on my brights any suggestions?

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by silversteinjosh

Hey guys. I have everything connected and somehow the brights arent registering with the koso rx2. its as if they arent even there. which disables me from being able to change the color and turn on my brights any suggestions?

I don't have a koso, so I'm only taking a shot in the dark, but maybe break out the multi-meter and verify it (switch) is working, and then go from there. Possibly send off an email to the company.

[Somchai]

Hello Hans,

the carb and efi versions have a different gastank. At the carb version you can only install the fuel sensor and at the efi version you can only install the fuel pump. Or you have to get a second hole inside, but the question then is at what place to do?
I've been thinking about the same, but I know I better forget about this idea.
Because the next issue is, that the meter doesn't show the right value. I know, when the light comes up then I have app. 100 more kilometer.
Good luck.

[Agger]

I tried starting a thread for this in the tech forum but have not received a reply. Does anyone know the proper oil and water temps for a 2010? I have the KOSO gauges installed but need to adjust the warning light temps for these and have no idea what a normal temp range would be!

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by Agger

I tried starting a thread for this in the tech forum but have not received a reply. Does anyone know the proper oil and water temps for a 2010? I have the KOSO gauges installed but need to adjust the warning light temps for these and have no idea what a normal temp range would be!

I'm sorry man because I know the info is on here somewhere. I have searched with different keywords but I'm not having any luck. I can check my KOSO settings and get back to you if no one chimes in.

[Somchai]

Hi Agger,

for the warning lights to setup you can use 155 deg Fahrenheit for the water, at 105 deg. Celsius, what I know better, the fan should start working and that's appr. 155 deg in Fahrenheit. This temperature you can refer to the Ninjettes Handbook.
For the oil you can setup 180 deg. in Fahrenheit because every modern oil should be good for this. Synthetic oils can reach much higher temperature, so I'm using Motul 300V 20W50 Synthetic racing-oil, that can reach 260 deg. in Fahrenheit without having any problems.
Normally the temperature for the oil shouldn't go higher then 160 Fahrenheit and the water is going to 155 only if you stop for a longer moment keeping the engine runing.

Have a good ride.

[Tay]

Hi All,

Thanks to Wayanlam, received my Rx2 Pnp Kit minus the voltage gauge, as it was out of stock. I have sourced my own gauge, it's on a plane somewhere getting sent to me.

Now, I have been pondering how to set the odometer to be the same on my bike before installing everything.

I've emailed Koso and asked is there any other way other then sending the unit to them to get it configured. For those of you who live outside the US, this can be a costly configuration, so one of my question was to them, what if I use a small table fan, put 2 or 3 magnets in the middle of the fan blade assembly and somehow hold the sensor so it picks up the rotation? They replies, yes this will work, but depending how many km or miles you need to put on, this may take a while.

After speaking with Wayanlam, he also said this will work and gave me some tips.....over some troubleshooting, below is my solution on our to set your odometer the unofficial way, it's dodgy but it's going to get the job done.

Get yourself a small table fan, I had this lying around, it only got two speed setting, take the front cover off.



User strong double sided tape, I tried cutting small pieces to fit the magnet but decided to make a long strip, in my case I only used 2 magnets, making sure the N is facing front.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Make sure the magnets are secured correctly, first time one of my magnets flew off, I spend an hour looking for the lost magnet! I suggest making a cover with cardboard of some sort to cover the fan, so if the magnet decides to come off, it can be easily found.



EDIT: There is a very high chance the magnet will fly off (one of might just flew off again), just did some minor changes.
I also recommend getting some CLEAR sticky tape and tape the two magnets down, these magnets wont be going anywhere
Make sure you don't put the magnets too close or they will magnet themselves together.



Now with the pickup sensor, find a place where you can mount it.



Now put the fan as close as possible so that one full turn of the blade so the sensor picks up two signals. I had mine on setting 1 speed.



Now you need something to power up the Rx2, I have a 12v battery charger that I use to charge up my car batteries to power up the Rx2.

As you can see, the Rx2 max speed is 360kmh.
Did a 1 minute test at 360kmh, I managed to get 10km (give or take).

1 hour = 600km

My bike has just over 11,000km, so it's going to take me a total of 18 hours to get to my odometer reading! Small price to pay but hey, at least I have a correct odometer.



As Wayanlam mentioned, don't fall asleep or forget about this if you leaving it unattended, hate for the odometer to go past your number.

To get past 99999.9km, it will take approx 166 hours or running 24 hours a day for 7 days straight to get it back to 00000.0km.

VERY IMPORTANT:

If you have the Rx2 powered up, you should be using the following colours,

Wires:
BLACK => Negative
RED = > Positive (RED wire is constant power which is connected directly to the battery)
BROWN = > Positive (BROWN wire is the Positive trigger power which turns on the unit)

To save the current odometer settings, you have to disconnect the BROWN wire, if you disconnect the RED or BLACK wire with the BROWN wire still connected, it will NOT save your settings, SO PLEASE BE CAREFUL!

Below is my settings that I found that works with the small fan:

CYCLE = 4C - 1P & LoAct
TYRE = 2500 & 1P

Enjoy

[dubojr1]

That's awesome man! Glad you figured this one out. I need to add 10,008 miles to my KOSO for it to be accurate.

[dubojr1]

May I also suggest adding a electrical timer to your rotation source (fan, etc.) for those that may need to do extended periods. That will keep you from having to wait on it and eliminate any concern of going over the odometer reading needed.

[choneofakind]

That's innovative! I like it!! Great idea guys

[Tay]

**** UPDATE ****

After 18 hours and a bit, my Koso odometer is all set





If your in this for the long haul, I suggest checking on it every now and then and saving the settings by removing the BROWN wire only, then reconnect and continue.

In my earlier post, I talked about going over, well, if you have been saving your settings often. If you happen to go over, remove the RED wire, this will not save your current settings! Once connected back, you will be started where you last saved so there is a fail safe method in case you go over.

[wayanlam]

glad to see you got it to the correct distance on the odometer

im also about the same distance behind on my koso as well, i switched over just under 10.000 Km. but never bothered with getting it registered right, lol

sent you an email regarding the hole size, hope you get it all assembled soon, and show us the end result, im sure you will like it, i did!! (until i damn crashed the bike )

peace,
W.

[Tay]

UPDATE:

The cluster itself wasn't the best fit, I have to say it was a pretty good overall job but there were some things that were needed to be modified to fit.

Had to wait for my digital volt meter to arrive from elsewhere as the KOSO ones that waylan supplies was out of stock. Just a note, the standard KOSO digital volt meter is 48mm in diameter, I ordered a 52mm since the information given to me was incorrect so with some more modifications, I bored out the gauge whole on the cluster to 52mm.

Also purchased a cheap universal gear indicator from ebay and connected it up, everything is all wired up, just need to play with the sensor position to find the sweet spot.

Here is the finishing product,

The digital volt meter can be changed from RED or BLUE to suit my mood, there is no switch to change the colour just an extra wire you need to connect a 12v into.
Also in the pic is the clock I bought for the bike a while ago to tell the time, this one is EL backlit when you press the button. The clock housing fits over the centre bolt and you just plug the clock in, and remove it when you park it in public just incase someone decides to remove it.



A closer look at the dash and gear indicator display.
Now, the gear display is hard to work with because the wires come out from the bottom right of the unit, which makes it hard to find a place for it. I made a L shape bracket with double sided tape to mount the unit to the bracket and onto the plastic shroud just under the cluster and bend the bracket to get a nice angle. Since I'm not that tall, it's hard to see the indicator while riding upright, but if you just lean forward a little you can see the number.
As mentioned above, everything is wired up, just need to move the gear UP sensor around to get it to register the magnet. It work sometimes.


With the gear indicator you have to connect one of the wires to neutral switch, this is to reset the number to "0", even thought I havn't got mine working just right I have a concern.
Lets say your in first gear, the indicator will show "1" now when you gear UP into 2nd gear, the unit registers that you've gone past neutral into 2nd gear and the indicator will go back to "0". Not sure if this is because the Koso Rx2 unti itself because before I got the gear indicator, while riding, when I change from 1st to 2nd, I can see "N" on the dash quickly turn on and off again. Something I have to investigate when I have time, but overall, very nice dash.

UPDATE:
Fine tuned the gear indicator sensors, working 99% of the time. My concerns above is not an issue, the unit knows what to do, changing from 1st to 2nd is not an issue.

[gt_turbo]

Awesome thread. Will be referring to this thread for help on my koso rx2 install. There is a gb on koso gauges going on in the market section right now for those who are interested.

[legend139]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

Well I actually installed mine just below the oil filter with the extra drain plug located there. Some have put it in the standard drain plug (where it is installed below) but that makes oil changes difficult. Here's a pic for a better understanding.

in this image your showing the oil filter then the oil drain cap then the main oil drainage cap with the sensor inside of it

does it matter which oil drainage cap u put the oil temp sensor in??
also what is the need of the 2 oil caps?
i mean could i put the sensor inside the oil drain cap next to the filter and leave it there permiently and just use the main oil cap to drain or does it require both drains to change the oil

thanks

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by Tay

UPDATE:

The cluster itself wasn't the best fit, I have to say it was a pretty good overall job but there were some things that were needed to be modified to fit.

Had to wait for my digital volt meter to arrive from elsewhere as the KOSO ones that waylan supplies was out of stock. Just a note, the standard KOSO digital volt meter is 48mm in diameter, I ordered a 52mm since the information given to me was incorrect so with some more modifications, I bored out the gauge whole on the cluster to 52mm.

Also purchased a cheap universal gear indicator from ebay and connected it up, everything is all wired up, just need to play with the sensor position to find the sweet spot.

Here is the finishing product,

The digital volt meter can be changed from RED or BLUE to suit my mood, there is no switch to change the colour just an extra wire you need to connect a 12v into.
Also in the pic is the clock I bought for the bike a while ago to tell the time, this one is EL backlit when you press the button. The clock housing fits over the centre bolt and you just plug the clock in, and remove it when you park it in public just incase someone decides to remove it.



A closer look at the dash and gear indicator display.
Now, the gear display is hard to work with because the wires come out from the bottom right of the unit, which makes it hard to find a place for it. I made a L shape bracket with double sided tape to mount the unit to the bracket and onto the plastic shroud just under the cluster and bend the bracket to get a nice angle. Since I'm not that tall, it's hard to see the indicator while riding upright, but if you just lean forward a little you can see the number.
As mentioned above, everything is wired up, just need to move the gear UP sensor around to get it to register the magnet. It work sometimes.


With the gear indicator you have to connect one of the wires to neutral switch, this is to reset the number to "0", even thought I havn't got mine working just right I have a concern.
Lets say your in first gear, the indicator will show "1" now when you gear UP into 2nd gear, the unit registers that you've gone past neutral into 2nd gear and the indicator will go back to "0". Not sure if this is because the Koso Rx2 unti itself because before I got the gear indicator, while riding, when I change from 1st to 2nd, I can see "N" on the dash quickly turn on and off again. Something I have to investigate when I have time, but overall, very nice dash.

UPDATE:
Fine tuned the gear indicator sensors, working 99% of the time. My concerns above is not an issue, the unit knows what to do, changing from 1st to 2nd is not an issue.

Your gauge looks awesome. How is the fuel part of the gauge working.

[Tay]

legend139,

I have the oil temp sensor with the drain plug adapter next to the oil filter.
The oil drain plug on the lower side is the main drain plug as far as Im aware.

msebastian,

My fuel gauge works fine as my ninja is carb not FI. Carb ninjas have the fuel sensor in the tank whereas the FI model just have a low level sensor, fuel gauge will not work on FI model.

Cheers

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by legend139

in this image your showing the oil filter then the oil drain cap then the main oil drainage cap with the sensor inside of it

does it matter which oil drainage cap u put the oil temp sensor in??
also what is the need of the 2 oil caps?
i mean could i put the sensor inside the oil drain cap next to the filter and leave it there permiently and just use the main oil cap to drain or does it require both drains to change the oil

thanks

It can be installed in either drain plug location. Personally I installed mine in the one located further left in the picture. That leaves the drain plug to the right easier to access and the lowest of the two to get the most out of the draining process.

[Old Lemon]

So I laid my bike down a couple weeks afgo and got a lot of extra money from insurance. I want to goet one of these gauges and was wondering if the repair shop / dealerships would be able to install one for me. Or do they not do this kind of thing?

[EthioKnight]

Originally Posted by Old Lemon

So I laid my bike down a couple weeks afgo and got a lot of extra money from insurance. I want to goet one of these gauges and was wondering if the repair shop / dealerships would be able to install one for me. Or do they not do this kind of thing?

not trying to be a smart ass but why not do it yourself bro. It's fairly simple...only thing that I was a bit uncomfortable doing was cutting the coolant hose, but apart from that, if you take it easy and go at it one step at a time, you should be able to do it. But, considering you have $ to burn, I'd think any motorcycle repair shop or dealership would be able to tackle this, I believe I've seen a post by someone who had it done that way.

[Old Lemon]

Its all the electrical stuff I have zero expierence with. Id rather learn how to do stuff like this on something I don't need to use everyday

[EthioKnight]

Originally Posted by Old Lemon

Its all the electrical stuff I have zero expierence with. Id rather learn how to do stuff like this on something I don't need to use everyday

It's all plug and play though bro...the only electrical bit to it is connecting the positive wire to the batteries...but, dude, if you're not comfortable with the whole thing, then just go for it and get it done

[Old Lemon]

Yeeee, baby steps for me. I installed a plug and play LED light kit and even with help it took us 2 and a half hours to finish (4 pieces)

[Old Lemon]

ok so i bought one. Do i NEED the plug and play kit to make EVERYTHING work?

edit: found a new video on youtube that goes through the entire installation. It does look pretty easy with the plug and play kit so i think ill get one of those as well

[Solfish]

Just thought I'd add my own experience with the fan trick (for setting the odometer):

-Definitely use double sided tape between the magnet and fan, and tape covering the magnet and surrounding area. (those magnets are dense and will work through all sorts of tape after hours of spinning if they're not stuck down with double sided tape.)

-Although the Speedometer maxes out at 224mph (360kph) the Odometer will count every magnet pass as distance traveled. In other words, I set three magnets on the fan and programmed the largest wheel possible, and by my numbers the Odometer was going somewhere around 450mph, even though the speedo maxed out at 224mph. So if you're going to leave it on a timer, figure out how fast the odometer is going, not take the speedo for granted.

Love this thread and all those offering useful, helpful, and even nice advice for fellow ninja owners. More forums should be this friendly.

[kawaracer]

Please help! I have installed my koso rx2 gauge with the plug and play kit. everything is working fine i didn't use the magnets just the cables for the speed reading that came with the plug and play and after starting her up the speed read about 10 times fast. i got up to 360km/h when i was actually going 80 or so ! also the odomoeter counts up ridiculous quick. rode a km and counted 10km! is it because i need to use the magnets?? or is my system faulty? any other reasons? so stressed !

[Old Lemon]

u need to change the tire circumference setting and sensor point setting, I have my circumference at 714 and 6p on the magnets. And also change your cycle / piston setting to 4c and 2p

[wayanlam]

if you use the speedo cable adapter (instead of the magnets + sensor) there is a certain magnet setting that you need to use... not sure what that is... but i believe that you still need to dial in the correct tire circumference. its usually around 1850mm (with a battlax front tire).

if i were you, id take out the original speedo cable, and hook up the sensor & 3or6 magnets to the disk brake. this results with really accurate readings once you put in the correct circumference and the number of magnets used~

MAKE SURE that you face the magnet side with the N (north) facing out... they are annoying to get back out, lol

peace~