chain not "free"

isuoboe · October 31st, 2017, 12:07 PM

I'm sure this has been addressed, but I cannot find it. My chain is fairly consistently not what a would call free, but there aren't any links that I would call stuck. Basically, if I curve the chain (wheel is removed), the links will stay as I put them. It seems as though this would create significant friction while driving.

I clean and lube it almost as often as you're supposed to, and check the slack every time. I haven't had to adjust it for a few thousand miles! The chain measures length (between rollers 1 and 21) like new. The rear sprocket shows little wear. The front sprocket shows some wear, but nothing like the examples in pictures people show of sprockets that need to be replaced. Bike has about 12,500 miles.

While I'm at it:
1. When you guys replace chains, are you disassembling the bike (swing arm, etc.) as the manual says, or are you using a master link of some kind? (if so rivet or clip?) The manual (I think the owners manual too) specifically says not to break the chain. I'm wondering what is different about this bike that would make them say that--or maybe manuals of all bikes say that for liability reasons?
2. What are people using for chains and sprockets? Discounted prices on OEM's are over $150 for just the chain. I see on Ebay sprocket and chain sets for $75 and less. All appear to have clip master links. I'm not interested in saving money and creating safety issues.

DannoXYZ · October 31st, 2017, 12:15 PM

What model chain you have? Does it have O-ring seals? Or X-ring?

1. If I'm replacing chain, I'm throwing it away, so what's the big deal about breaking it? I use one of the plate-puller tools to cut chain and use free-end to thread in new chain. Master-link with new chain works fine.

2. Cost difference I've found has more to do with type of chains. Heavy-duty non-sealed chains costs the least, but wears out 3-4x faster than sealed O/X-ring chains. Sure you can remove a non-sealed chain, clean it in tin of kerosene, re-install and re-oil every 250-miles to last as long as O/X-ring chain, but who does that kind of meticulous maintenance? All the O/X-ring chains I've gotten have used master-links, even my race-bike, and never had any problems with master-links in the past 35-years.

Yes, they do introduce a point-of-failure if improperly installed, but same case if you used a rivet master-link and didn't install properly. Or if you didn't tighten the sprockets on properly. Or if you didn't align wheel properly. Of if you didn't tension chain properly. Design is rarely an issue, more of materials specs and/or installation error that causes problem.

isuoboe · October 31st, 2017, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JacRyann

What model chain you have? Does it have O-ring seals? Or X-ring?

1. If I'm replacing chain, I'm throwing it away, so what's the big deal about breaking it? I use one of the plate-puller tools to cut chain and use free-end to thread in new chain.

My chain is the original o-ring chain. I guess I never really stated that my question is whether people think the chain needs replacing.

What I meant about "breaking" the chain was that the manual says you aren't supposed to use a chain that is installed by "unbreaking" it with a master link.

Good idea about threading new chain so nothing has to be disassembled on the bike! It's so obvious; I wonder if I would have thought of it.

DannoXYZ · October 31st, 2017, 12:50 PM

Yes, in many cases, breaking chain that doesn't come with master-link may not be good. Unless you find master-link with exact dimensions. Aside from just roller size, the thickness of the plates and length of pins needs to be accounted for as well. If you do find master-link of proper dimensions to match chain, it should be OK to break it, I haven't had any issues.

October 31st, 2017, 12:07 PM	#1
isuoboe ninjette.org member Name: Kevin Location: Central Iowa Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 1981 Honda CB125S, 2006 Ninja 250 Posts: 65	chain not "free" I'm sure this has been addressed, but I cannot find it. My chain is fairly consistently not what a would call free, but there aren't any links that I would call stuck. Basically, if I curve the chain (wheel is removed), the links will stay as I put them. It seems as though this would create significant friction while driving. I clean and lube it almost as often as you're supposed to, and check the slack every time. I haven't had to adjust it for a few thousand miles! The chain measures length (between rollers 1 and 21) like new. The rear sprocket shows little wear. The front sprocket shows some wear, but nothing like the examples in pictures people show of sprockets that need to be replaced. Bike has about 12,500 miles. While I'm at it: 1. When you guys replace chains, are you disassembling the bike (swing arm, etc.) as the manual says, or are you using a master link of some kind? (if so rivet or clip?) The manual (I think the owners manual too) specifically says not to break the chain. I'm wondering what is different about this bike that would make them say that--or maybe manuals of all bikes say that for liability reasons? 2. What are people using for chains and sprockets? Discounted prices on OEM's are over $150 for just the chain. I see on Ebay sprocket and chain sets for $75 and less. All appear to have clip master links. I'm not interested in saving money and creating safety issues. __________________________________________________ isuoboe

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October 31st, 2017, 12:15 PM	#2
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	What model chain you have? Does it have O-ring seals? Or X-ring? 1. If I'm replacing chain, I'm throwing it away, so what's the big deal about breaking it? I use one of the plate-puller tools to cut chain and use free-end to thread in new chain. Master-link with new chain works fine. 2. Cost difference I've found has more to do with type of chains. Heavy-duty non-sealed chains costs the least, but wears out 3-4x faster than sealed O/X-ring chains. Sure you can remove a non-sealed chain, clean it in tin of kerosene, re-install and re-oil every 250-miles to last as long as O/X-ring chain, but who does that kind of meticulous maintenance? All the O/X-ring chains I've gotten have used master-links, even my race-bike, and never had any problems with master-links in the past 35-years. Yes, they do introduce a point-of-failure if improperly installed, but same case if you used a rivet master-link and didn't install properly. Or if you didn't tighten the sprockets on properly. Or if you didn't align wheel properly. Of if you didn't tension chain properly. Design is rarely an issue, more of materials specs and/or installation error that causes problem.

October 31st, 2017, 12:50 PM	#4
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Yes, in many cases, breaking chain that doesn't come with master-link may not be good. Unless you find master-link with exact dimensions. Aside from just roller size, the thickness of the plates and length of pins needs to be accounted for as well. If you do find master-link of proper dimensions to match chain, it should be OK to break it, I haven't had any issues.