Handlebar risers

Brian250R · July 19th, 2010, 07:04 PM

Is it possible to raise the stock handlebars WITHOUT moving the fork tubes up?

kkim · July 19th, 2010, 07:17 PM

yes.

Brian250R · July 19th, 2010, 07:24 PM

I guess I need to be really specific. I figured if someone knew that it was possible they'd also tell me how it's done. Thanks.

kkim · July 19th, 2010, 07:43 PM

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9804

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5586

just follow the first link on how to lower the front end, except after you install the lowering blocks, leave the forks where they are instead of lowering them. You'll need to purchase the lowering blocks.

Brian250R · July 19th, 2010, 07:52 PM

Thanks kkim. I contacted Slingshot and was told I would need to move the fork tubes.
Can someone verify it is safe to do this mod without moving the tubes?

kkim · July 19th, 2010, 07:55 PM

why are they saying you need to move the tubes?

How would not lowering the tubes make it unsafe?

Brian250R · July 19th, 2010, 08:16 PM

I don't know. I was hoping someone here could explain that to me tonight before I am able to contact them again tomorrow.
When I asked if I could use this riser without lowering the bike the exact reply was...
"you can raise the bar by 1 inch, you will need to move the fork tube."

randomwalk101 · July 19th, 2010, 08:19 PM

I thought you leave everything and just stick that aluminum block between the tripple tree and the handlebar and bolt them down thus rise the handle bars up?? Why lower forks?
Posted via Mobile Device

Brian250R · July 19th, 2010, 08:21 PM

John - the risers are marketed as a product used to lower the front of the bike.

kkim · July 19th, 2010, 08:32 PM

yes, but if you choose not to lower the forks, the handlebars are raised by an inch. if you want to lower the front end, then yes, you must move the forks, but if you don't, just stick the blocks in there to simply raise the handlebars.

what are your concerns on doing so? look at the DIY I linked and see how this all goes together. As long as the longer handlebar bolts they sell with the lowering blocks are strong enough, you shouldn't have any problems.

Brian250R · July 20th, 2010, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

why are they saying you need to move the tubes?

How would not lowering the tubes make it unsafe?

Slingshot just emailed me their answer....
"you just need to move the fork tube enough for the riser to sit on top of the fork for stability."

I replied with "What are you stabilizing? The fork or the handlebar?"

?

kkim · July 20th, 2010, 12:40 PM

Thank you Brian. I'm interested in what they have to say.

There have been other forum members that have used the lowering blocks as risers in the past and to my knowledge, there have been no problems reported.

Brian250R · July 20th, 2010, 01:03 PM

"the handle bar. the riser and the handle bar needs to get a hold of the fork to make it stable while handling."

kkim · July 20th, 2010, 01:12 PM

um... isn't that the job of the triple tree???

The handlebar's strength/rigidity would be directly linked to hardness/quality of the longer bolts used to secure the handlebars to the triple tree and the torque spec used install them.

btw, what do their risers look like and what is that you're trying to achieve with your bike? Most on the forum want to go the other way of lowering the bars, not raising them.

Ninjamomma · February 22nd, 2011, 09:54 AM

I purchase 1" riser from the below link (cheapest I found $59.99). It states, "lowering block/handlebar risers." All you need to do is unscrewed handlebars, inserted the riser and screw back on handlebars with longer screws provided with purchase and whalaa! Took 10 minutes - BUT!, be careful to make sure your cables are not stressed. My clutch cable was too tight and it frayed after a month of riding. I had to purchase a new cable and reroute it through the engine for more play - and I'm a GIRL (actually older WOMEN) with no experience in motorcycle maintenance, just good common sense of looking at how something comes apart and putting it back the same way.

The riser made a big difference, although I'm still looking for something myself to raise it ever higher. If you come across something more than 1", let me know

Ninjamomma

http://www.buynowroaringtoyz.com/Nin...p/rtk725jb.htm

slolane · February 22nd, 2011, 01:07 PM

Suzanne is right, put the risers on and use the longer bolts that are included with em. As far as higher, I wonder if you could make larger ones or doublestack the Roaring Toyz risers and just get longer bolts and cables. Maybe go up another inch but wouldn't want to hit the upper fairing at full lock left/right. I'm ordering a set for my wifes 250 soon and will see how far off the bolts and cables would be if doublestacked. I did this on my ZX14 and it worked perfectly.

Ninjamomma · February 23rd, 2011, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slolane

Suzanne is right, put the risers on and use the longer bolts that are included with em. As far as higher, I wonder if you could make larger ones or doublestack the Roaring Toyz risers and just get longer bolts and cables. Maybe go up another inch but wouldn't want to hit the upper fairing at full lock left/right. I'm ordering a set for my wifes 250 soon and will see how far off the bolts and cables would be if doublestacked. I did this on my ZX14 and it worked perfectly.

Hey James,

I went out and measured how much higher a second riser would be since you mention about it hitting the fairing (didn't think of that) and it comes close to hitting the inside of clutch and brake lever when locked.

You would definitely need longer cables with a second riser as my cables have no slack (in locked position) with one.

I posted this earlier, finding a youtube modification that I would absolutely love, but it probably cost too much if having a skill mechanic do it - although I sent the link to a mechanic to ask if he could do it and will find out soon what it may cost.

Check it out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IrtI2VYZHs

slolane · February 23rd, 2011, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninjamomma

Hey James,

I went out and measured how much higher a second riser would be since you mention about it hitting the fairing (didn't think of that) and it comes close to hitting the inside of clutch and brake lever when locked.

You would definitely need longer cables with a second riser as my cables have no slack (in locked position) with one.

I posted this earlier, finding a youtube modification that I would absolutely love, but it probably cost too much if having a skill mechanic do it - although I sent the link to a mechanic to ask if he could do it and will find out soon what it may cost.

Check it out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IrtI2VYZHs

I agree, a double stack would require longer lines for sure... I have one set on my 250 and that's about the max with the stock lines. I'm not sure if you would hit the fairing or not as it's not only higher but also coming further back towards the rider at the same time based on the fork angle. I checked with my wife tonight and she's good with the simple one set of risers but I really like the bikes with the risers and MX style bars, looks great and could be really comfy. I watched that Youtube vid, that's a very neat 250, he has a lot of work into it!!

FrugalNinja250 · February 24th, 2011, 11:22 AM

WRT to moving the fork tubes, they likely mean to move the forks up just enough that the top of the fork tubes catches the hole in the bottom of the riser. The hole for the fork tube is fairly precision so they're using the tube to help locate the riser. At least, that's what I read out of it...

NathanF · April 26th, 2011, 01:09 PM

Brian,
Did you ever give this mod a try? I'm looking to accomplish the same thing, to raise the handle bars without significantly affecting the height of the bike. My main aim is a slightly more upright riding position. (For comfort, as well as to stop my helmet from catching on my shoulder armor when I need to look behind me. This is proving to be a serious problem for me, for whatever reason, using different jackets with my RF-1100 helmet.)

I called Roaring Toyz and asked if it was possible, using their risers, to simply move the handlebars up without affecting the height of the bike. The person I spoke to said it was not, that the forks had to slide up into them.

Ninjamomma,
I'd be very curious to hear what your thoughts are about that. When you installed them, did the forks go up into the risers? Does the bike feel lower to you?

I also asked the guy if it was possible to have problems with your cables as a result of the risers. He said no, so that already makes me suspect given your experience.

Thanks!

NathanF · April 26th, 2011, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

yes, but if you choose not to lower the forks, the handlebars are raised by an inch. if you want to lower the front end, then yes, you must move the forks, but if you don't, just stick the blocks in there to simply raise the handlebars.

what are your concerns on doing so? look at the DIY I linked and see how this all goes together. As long as the longer handlebar bolts they sell with the lowering blocks are strong enough, you shouldn't have any problems.

I just got a chance to go over those that DIY posts you linked to, so I think I am understanding things a bit better. Thanks for that.

It seems like there are two contradictory claims going on:

1) The riser blocks can be installed without touching the forks. This gains 1" on the bars without changing the bike height.

2) The riser blocks once installed have to have the forks adjusted to slide up into them. Otherwise, the handle bars are purely relying on the bolts to hold them in place and take riding stress, rather than the bolts AND the bars slid up into them.

My question is this - by default, with no changes made, do the forks actually protrude any amount into the stock handle bars such that they bottom out (or in this case, top out) in them?

If they don't, if they are purely held in with the clamps on the triple, it seems to me that Option 1 would be no problem.

If they do slide into them, then that makes things more fuzzy. If nothing else, it makes it plausible that you're running a risk by raising the bars without sliding the forks up. Clearly, four bolts AND the forks would be vastly superior to just the four bolts.

kkim · April 26th, 2011, 02:03 PM

yes, the stock setup does have a bit of the fork protruding into the handlebar clamps. If you think they did that for extra strength, you could be correct, but I say what about the clipon sets that are sold to replace the stock handlebars? they rely strictly on bolts to hold the clipons to the fork tubes. They are strong enough that people race with them like that and suffer no problems from "strength/rigidity".

look at "moto" style handlebars... they rely on four bolts to clamp the handlebars to the triple tree.

I still maintain that the strength and bolt quality used is key and that combined with good install practices and knowledge, the handlebars will be quite safe and sturdy. If you're looking for someone to give you a 100% guaranty that it will never fail, you'll never get that, but riding with a set of spacer blocks, properly installed, without the forks slid up is far from unsafe. If it bothers you so much, you could always slide the forks up into the blocks say 1/4" and still reap a higher handlebar height.

NathanF · April 26th, 2011, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

yes, the stock setup does have a bit of the fork protruding into the handlebar clamps. If you think they did that for extra strength, you could be correct, but I say what about the clipon sets that are sold to replace the stock handlebars? they rely strictly on bolts to hold the clipons to the fork tubes. They are strong enough that people race with them like that and suffer no problems from "strength/rigidity".

look at "moto" style handlebars... they rely on four bolts to clamp the handlebars to the triple tree.

I still maintain that the strength and bolt quality used is key and that combined with good install practices and knowledge, the handlebars will be quite safe and sturdy. If you're looking for someone to give you a 100% guaranty that it will never fail, you'll never get that, but riding with a set of spacer blocks, properly installed, without the forks slid up is far from unsafe. If it bothers you so much, you could always slide the forks up into the blocks say 1/4" and still reap a higher handlebar height.

That sounds totally reasonable to me. I'm going to purchase the Roaring Toyz risers listed above, and give them a go.

If I don't like the look of it, I'll adjust the forks 1/4" into the the riser blocks. If I'm even more paranoid, I could get some steel tube stock of the proper diameter and use that to fill the remaining gap between the handlebars and riser. More than likely though I'll do neither.

As for bolt quality, any thoughts on Roaring Toyz? Would I be better off tossing them and buying some higher quality ones elsewhere, and if so, any recommendations?

Thanks.

kkim · April 26th, 2011, 06:39 PM

I think the RT bolts should suffice... I don't know what their rated strength is, though. I'm assuming they use high quality bolts to ward off any liability issues of their product failing, which is why I think they are just being extra safe and saying the fork tubes needs to be up into the spacers.

when you get the kit, there should be class numbers on the top of the bolts. If they read 10.8 (vs a lower number) or something of that magnitude, you should be fine.

Ninjamomma · April 27th, 2011, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NathanF

Brian,
Did you ever give this mod a try? I'm looking to accomplish the same thing, to raise the handle bars without significantly affecting the height of the bike. My main aim is a slightly more upright riding position. (For comfort, as well as to stop my helmet from catching on my shoulder armor when I need to look behind me. This is proving to be a serious problem for me, for whatever reason, using different jackets with my RF-1100 helmet.)

I called Roaring Toyz and asked if it was possible, using their risers, to simply move the handlebars up without affecting the height of the bike. The person I spoke to said it was not, that the forks had to slide up into them.

Ninjamomma,
I'd be very curious to hear what your thoughts are about that. When you installed them, did the forks go up into the risers? Does the bike feel lower to you?

I also asked the guy if it was possible to have problems with your cables as a result of the risers. He said no, so that already makes me suspect given your experience.

Thanks!

Hey Nathan,

You ask if the forks went up into the riser - yes they do. About a 1/4" of fork fits in the riser (as it did with the handlebar). The handlebar floats on the riser with the bolts holding it in place. There is no lowering required, just a 10 min. install. Concerning cable length, the stock cables are long enough for a 1" riser. It may have been my lack of experience to check to see if the clutch cable was bent too much (making it rub) and it may be each Ninja cable routing could be a fraction different. But it is easy to re-route, as I did with the new cable.

I still wanted the bars higher and contacted my local Kawasaki dealer to ask the question of just adding a 2nd (or even third) set of risers (the cheapest way to go) - how safe is was (because my thoughts were the same with everyone here - needing the stability of the fork). They told me the bolts are all that is needed for stability, just make sure they are torked correctly. I don't have a tork wrench, but went by feel. You may say that is dangerous, but I would think it is safer to under-tork than over tork, resulting in a broken screw. I check it every time I ride to see if there is any play in the handlebars (if so, just tighten it - but haven't had to do that) and it has been great for the last 6 month. The only problem I have found with adding an additional riser is finding longer screws. I guess you could go to a machine shop and have them made.

There are a few different kind of handlebar rising options besides the risers (links below) but they can cost a minimum of $300-600 dollars - not including cables. Cables is the big question. I have looked for months and have had the dealership look - no one (as of yet) makes longer cables for the 2008-2010 Ninja 250r. I was directed by the mechanic to go to a shop that can take your original cables and (through weaving) make them longer. This is another big cost. Might as well buy a Ninja 650 that has the classic type handlebars which are more upright or can be changed easily - BUT, I love my Ninja 250r - so either I put $600+ in resolving this or $200+ in Ibuprofen for my back and arms.

http://japan.webike.net/products/1820204.html
http://japan.webike.net/products/9651934.html

If anyone comes across longer cables, please post site.

Thanks

Ninjamomma

p.s. I just read on another blog that Concourse and Ninja 250 parts are inter-changeable. Anyone know about this? Maybe the Concourse cables will fit.

Seattle_Chris · May 1st, 2011, 05:21 AM

I used the "1 risers, and just bolted 'em on. No problem, handles fine. Though at full lock, the cables get a little overly tight, but I don't think so much that it's damaging.

Brian250R · May 4th, 2011, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NathanF

Brian,
Did you ever give this mod a try? I'm looking to accomplish the same thing, to raise the handle bars without significantly affecting the height of the bike. My main aim is a slightly more upright riding position. (For comfort, as well as to stop my helmet from catching on my shoulder armor when I need to look behind me. This is proving to be a serious problem for me, for whatever reason, using different jackets with my RF-1100 helmet.)

I called Roaring Toyz and asked if it was possible, using their risers, to simply move the handlebars up without affecting the height of the bike. The person I spoke to said it was not, that the forks had to slide up into them.

I never did purchase the risers but when I get some time it is something I'd still like to do.

Pigeonherd · January 8th, 2016, 03:52 PM

1 1/4" (32mm) riser built specifically for Ninja:
http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index...roducts_id=106

Walk-through:
http://grayraven.com/JimNtexas/?p=395

Don't need to lower your bike to enjoy higher bars. I want to do this to mine because my wife won't ride it due to the discomfort it creates in her back (we bought it as a first-bike for both of us).

Here's the difference 1.25" makes for a shorty like me (5'5" with 28" inseam):

stock

with 1.25" rise

Okay, obviously it's not a lot, but it's enough that my gaze would be naturally out toward the road ahead and not at the ground 20ft in front of me.

choneofakind · January 9th, 2016, 11:32 AM

How about just don't look at the ground 20' in front of you??

People are so quick to blame the equipment and not ever consider user error as a possibility...

Pigeonherd · January 11th, 2016, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

How about just don't look at the ground 20' in front of you??

People are so quick to blame the equipment and not ever consider user error as a possibility...

LOLOLOL.
It's not about practicality, it's about ergonomics. (read: it's a preference)
Also, I personally don't think it's raised enough.

July 19th, 2010, 07:04 PM	#1
Brian250R ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: East Coast Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R Posts: 77	Handlebar risers Is it possible to raise the stock handlebars WITHOUT moving the fork tubes up?

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July 19th, 2010, 07:17 PM	#2
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	yes.

July 19th, 2010, 07:24 PM	#3
Brian250R ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: East Coast Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R Posts: 77	I guess I need to be really specific. I figured if someone knew that it was possible they'd also tell me how it's done. Thanks.

July 19th, 2010, 07:43 PM	#4
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9804 http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5586 just follow the first link on how to lower the front end, except after you install the lowering blocks, leave the forks where they are instead of lowering them. You'll need to purchase the lowering blocks.

July 19th, 2010, 07:52 PM	#5
Brian250R ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: East Coast Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R Posts: 77	Thanks kkim. I contacted Slingshot and was told I would need to move the fork tubes. Can someone verify it is safe to do this mod without moving the tubes?

July 19th, 2010, 07:55 PM	#6
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	why are they saying you need to move the tubes? How would not lowering the tubes make it unsafe?

July 19th, 2010, 08:16 PM	#7
Brian250R ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: East Coast Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R Posts: 77	I don't know. I was hoping someone here could explain that to me tonight before I am able to contact them again tomorrow. When I asked if I could use this riser without lowering the bike the exact reply was... "you can raise the bar by 1 inch, you will need to move the fork tube."

July 19th, 2010, 08:19 PM	#8
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	I thought you leave everything and just stick that aluminum block between the tripple tree and the handlebar and bolt them down thus rise the handle bars up?? Why lower forks? Posted via Mobile Device

July 19th, 2010, 08:21 PM	#9
Brian250R ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: East Coast Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R Posts: 77	John - the risers are marketed as a product used to lower the front of the bike.

July 19th, 2010, 08:32 PM	#10
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	yes, but if you choose not to lower the forks, the handlebars are raised by an inch. if you want to lower the front end, then yes, you must move the forks, but if you don't, just stick the blocks in there to simply raise the handlebars. what are your concerns on doing so? look at the DIY I linked and see how this all goes together. As long as the longer handlebar bolts they sell with the lowering blocks are strong enough, you shouldn't have any problems.

July 20th, 2010, 12:40 PM	#12
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Thank you Brian. I'm interested in what they have to say. There have been other forum members that have used the lowering blocks as risers in the past and to my knowledge, there have been no problems reported.

July 20th, 2010, 01:03 PM	#13
Brian250R ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: East Coast Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R Posts: 77	"the handle bar. the riser and the handle bar needs to get a hold of the fork to make it stable while handling."

July 20th, 2010, 01:12 PM	#14
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	um... isn't that the job of the triple tree??? The handlebar's strength/rigidity would be directly linked to hardness/quality of the longer bolts used to secure the handlebars to the triple tree and the torque spec used install them. btw, what do their risers look like and what is that you're trying to achieve with your bike? Most on the forum want to go the other way of lowering the bars, not raising them.

February 22nd, 2011, 09:54 AM	#15
Ninjamomma ninjette.org member Name: Suzanne Location: Shady Shores, Texas Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 35	I purchase 1" riser from the below link (cheapest I found $59.99). It states, "lowering block/handlebar risers." All you need to do is unscrewed handlebars, inserted the riser and screw back on handlebars with longer screws provided with purchase and whalaa! Took 10 minutes - BUT!, be careful to make sure your cables are not stressed. My clutch cable was too tight and it frayed after a month of riding. I had to purchase a new cable and reroute it through the engine for more play - and I'm a GIRL (actually older WOMEN) with no experience in motorcycle maintenance, just good common sense of looking at how something comes apart and putting it back the same way. The riser made a big difference, although I'm still looking for something myself to raise it ever higher. If you come across something more than 1", let me know Ninjamomma http://www.buynowroaringtoyz.com/Nin...p/rtk725jb.htm

February 22nd, 2011, 01:07 PM	#16
slolane Motorcyclist Name: James Location: Maryland Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 ABS Posts: A lot.	Suzanne is right, put the risers on and use the longer bolts that are included with em. As far as higher, I wonder if you could make larger ones or doublestack the Roaring Toyz risers and just get longer bolts and cables. Maybe go up another inch but wouldn't want to hit the upper fairing at full lock left/right. I'm ordering a set for my wifes 250 soon and will see how far off the bolts and cables would be if doublestacked. I did this on my ZX14 and it worked perfectly.

February 24th, 2011, 11:22 AM	#19
FrugalNinja250 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Frugal Location: Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW) Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): Several Posts: A lot.	WRT to moving the fork tubes, they likely mean to move the forks up just enough that the top of the fork tubes catches the hole in the bottom of the riser. The hole for the fork tube is fairly precision so they're using the tube to help locate the riser. At least, that's what I read out of it...

April 26th, 2011, 01:09 PM	#20
NathanF ninjette.org member Name: Nathan Location: Portland, Oregon Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 V-Strom 650 ABS Posts: 166	Brian, Did you ever give this mod a try? I'm looking to accomplish the same thing, to raise the handle bars without significantly affecting the height of the bike. My main aim is a slightly more upright riding position. (For comfort, as well as to stop my helmet from catching on my shoulder armor when I need to look behind me. This is proving to be a serious problem for me, for whatever reason, using different jackets with my RF-1100 helmet.) I called Roaring Toyz and asked if it was possible, using their risers, to simply move the handlebars up without affecting the height of the bike. The person I spoke to said it was not, that the forks had to slide up into them. Ninjamomma, I'd be very curious to hear what your thoughts are about that. When you installed them, did the forks go up into the risers? Does the bike feel lower to you? I also asked the guy if it was possible to have problems with your cables as a result of the risers. He said no, so that already makes me suspect given your experience. Thanks!

April 26th, 2011, 02:03 PM	#22
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	yes, the stock setup does have a bit of the fork protruding into the handlebar clamps. If you think they did that for extra strength, you could be correct, but I say what about the clipon sets that are sold to replace the stock handlebars? they rely strictly on bolts to hold the clipons to the fork tubes. They are strong enough that people race with them like that and suffer no problems from "strength/rigidity". look at "moto" style handlebars... they rely on four bolts to clamp the handlebars to the triple tree. I still maintain that the strength and bolt quality used is key and that combined with good install practices and knowledge, the handlebars will be quite safe and sturdy. If you're looking for someone to give you a 100% guaranty that it will never fail, you'll never get that, but riding with a set of spacer blocks, properly installed, without the forks slid up is far from unsafe. If it bothers you so much, you could always slide the forks up into the blocks say 1/4" and still reap a higher handlebar height.

April 26th, 2011, 06:39 PM	#24
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I think the RT bolts should suffice... I don't know what their rated strength is, though. I'm assuming they use high quality bolts to ward off any liability issues of their product failing, which is why I think they are just being extra safe and saying the fork tubes needs to be up into the spacers. when you get the kit, there should be class numbers on the top of the bolts. If they read 10.8 (vs a lower number) or something of that magnitude, you should be fine.

May 1st, 2011, 05:21 AM	#26
Seattle_Chris Newb since 10/2009 Name: Chris Location: Seattle Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 SE. Slowly morphing to ADV bike. :D Posts: 182	I used the "1 risers, and just bolted 'em on. No problem, handles fine. Though at full lock, the cables get a little overly tight, but I don't think so much that it's damaging.

January 8th, 2016, 03:52 PM	#28
Pigeonherd ninjette.org member Name: pigeonherd Location: Quincy, California Join Date: Jan 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja250, 2014 Honda CB500X, '15CB300F Posts: 65	1 1/4" (32mm) riser built specifically for Ninja: http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index...roducts_id=106 Walk-through: http://grayraven.com/JimNtexas/?p=395 Don't need to lower your bike to enjoy higher bars. I want to do this to mine because my wife won't ride it due to the discomfort it creates in her back (we bought it as a first-bike for both of us). Here's the difference 1.25" makes for a shorty like me (5'5" with 28" inseam): stock with 1.25" rise Okay, obviously it's not a lot, but it's enough that my gaze would be naturally out toward the road ahead and not at the ground 20ft in front of me.

January 9th, 2016, 11:32 AM	#29
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	How about just don't look at the ground 20' in front of you?? People are so quick to blame the equipment and not ever consider user error as a possibility...