Want a current gen 250r, but I'm afraid of valve adjustments

249cc · November 8th, 2012, 06:12 PM

I'm coming from riding a pregen 250 that completely killed itself on the freeway a couple weeks ago. I was thinking about getting a Ninja 300 but no one would finance me. :\

In time, I could come up with the cash for a 250r. I figure that when I come up with extra money, I could turn over the 250 and buy the 300 in cash once its price goes down.

As most of you know, the pregen's valve adjustment procedure is a DREAM...but I've read that the new gen is very difficult. What's worse, I looked at the thread in the stickies on this forum and the videos are down :[. What do I do?! I'm not the type to pay $300 to a dealer to do my services, plus, I don't trust 'em.

Kygirl · November 8th, 2012, 09:11 PM

Don't let the valve adjustment be the deciding factor in your purchase. It does take time , but with the help of this forum and a service manual (I read the diy but couldn't watch the videos due to crappy internet connection) it's not as hard as you might think. If you can follow directions you can do the valve adjustment on a 08-12 250r

249cc · November 8th, 2012, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kygirl

Don't let the valve adjustment be the deciding factor in your purchase. It does take time , but with the help of this forum and a service manual (I read the diy but couldn't watch the videos due to crappy internet connection) it's not as hard as you might think. If you can follow directions you can do the valve adjustment on a 08-12 250r

Where did you get your shims?

And wasn't there a guy on here that would do valves cheaply?

YunMing · November 8th, 2012, 10:44 PM

I did my valves the first time by myself you just need the gauges and the right tools. The process is actually fairly simple.

249cc · November 8th, 2012, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YunMing

I did my valves the first time by myself you just need the gauges and the right tools. The process is actually fairly simple.

It says you ride a 2007 Ninja in your stats. Pre-gen Ninjas are SUPER easy to adjust. The current gen I want (2008-2012) is way more involved, from what I gather. :[

YunMing · November 8th, 2012, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 249cc

It says you ride a 2007 Ninja in your stats. Pre-gen Ninjas are SUPER easy to adjust. The current gen I want (2008-2012) is way more involved, from what I gather. :[

Probably a few more things to take apart. The whole process is mainly taking everything apart.

249cc · November 8th, 2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YunMing

Probably a few more things to take apart. The whole process is mainly taking everything apart.

That much I can do. I can pull fairings and misc parts apart...but when I started reading about shims, thickness gauges, calculators, and charts, I freaked out.

Just found out the guy who helped people on this site do the adjustments no longer comes on and deleted his videos >:[

YunMing · November 8th, 2012, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 249cc

That much I can do. I can pull fairings and misc parts apart...but when I started reading about shims, thickness gauges, calculators, and charts, I freaked out.

Just found out the guy who helped people on this site do the adjustments no longer comes on and deleted his videos >:[

Uhh for gauges you just measure the clearances. No idea about the calculators and charts really.

menikmati · November 8th, 2012, 10:55 PM

There are quite a bit of DIYs and guides out there. The main time-consuming part is taking off or moving a bunch of things so you can get an accurate measure of the valve lash. The actual adjustment requires a little more work but isn't that daunting.

Grab a service manual and read up on the DIYs out there and TAKE YOUR TIME. If you have a garage you can dedicate a Saturday/Sunday to it or split it across both days.

HKr1 · November 9th, 2012, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YunMing

Probably a few more things to take apart. The whole process is mainly taking everything apart.

LOL, yeah like removing the cams.......

choneofakind · November 9th, 2012, 12:47 PM

Removing the cams isn't that bad. Just make sure to put the engine on 2T and get them all lined up when you're done. Don't let the different style of valve adjustments be a huge reason to not to buy a newer bike. Let it be a learning experience.

Kygirl · November 10th, 2012, 05:23 PM

The valve adjustment is a bit more extensive for the newer gen 250. It is a different design than the pregen.The new gen uses buckets and shims unlike many other bikes (some BMWs old Hondas etc) that can be adjusted roadside with a flathead screwdriver.

Hot cams makes a shim kit that works for the new gen 250. OR You can order individual shims from Kawasaki (part numbers are in the service manual) OR you can simply take the old shims to a good shop and they will match them up. My shop did it for less that $2 for each shim. Yes, it is a little time-consuming the first time but well worth the effort and not too difficult as long as you follow the manual.

As far as the calculators and charts go it isn't as complicated as it might first appear. The charts are mainly organizational tools that help you remember which shims came from where.( intake or exhaust and cylinder #) Basically the shims must be a certain thickness. The "math" is just doing easy subtraction to figure out the thickness of the new shim you need to buy. (Don't forget that you might be able to use an old shim in a new position if the size is right!)

249cc · November 10th, 2012, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kygirl

The valve adjustment is a bit more extensive for the newer gen 250. It is a different design than the pregen.The new gen uses buckets and shims unlike many other bikes (some BMWs old Hondas etc) that can be adjusted roadside with a flathead screwdriver.

Hot cams makes a shim kit that works for the new gen 250. OR You can order individual shims from Kawasaki (part numbers are in the service manual) OR you can simply take the old shims to a good shop and they will match them up. My shop did it for less that $2 for each shim. Yes, it is a little time-consuming the first time but well worth the effort and not too difficult as long as you follow the manual.

As far as the calculators and charts go it isn't as complicated as it might first appear. The charts are mainly organizational tools that help you remember which shims came from where.( intake or exhaust and cylinder #) Basically the shims must be a certain thickness. Your shims may not be as thick as they need to be so the "math" is just doing easy subtraction to figure out the thickness of the new shim you need to buy. (Don't forget that you might be able to use an old shim in a new position if the size is right!)

Thanks for your input. The reason I was a little taken back was because I was reading this DIY : http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008_n..._clearance.htm

His excel sheets had a bunch of numbers that just weren't making sense. After skimming an online service manual, it all makes sense. PLUS, the excel spreadsheet he has up for download is INTERACTIVE.

All I have to do is measure the shims the bike already has AND the valve clearance and the sheet does the MATH!!!

I feel much more confident now and am saving up for the next gen. I'm going to start making phone calls to see which dealership/shop is going to get my business from now on

There is something else that's bothering me. With the Pregen, I had to check my valves every 6k miles, but in the service manual for the Next Gen, it's every 12k miles. Is that a benefit of the new valve adjustment style or should I still be checking them every 6k miles?

Kygirl · November 10th, 2012, 06:34 PM

Yes, from what I understand, it is a benefit of the shim and bucket style of adjustment. More in-depth maintenance but longer miles between adjustments. Not a bad trade-off.

For example according to the manual I waited far too long to do my first valve adjustment (17K miles) and mine weren't too far out of spec. Some were actually still in spec.

Also, I just noticed that my earlier post could be confusing. I wrote "Your shims may not be as thick as they need to be so the "math" is just doing easy subtraction to figure out the thickness of the new shim you need to buy." I should have written "your shims may be thicker than they need to be" (remember clearance decreases as the miles go by in this arrangement). Just a grammar thing but it sounds confusing the way I originally wrote it. I just fixed the post. I wanted to make sure I didn't make it sound like the shim under bucket arrangement caused things to loosen as time went by.

ChaoSS · November 11th, 2012, 06:05 PM

Actually I believe the newgens are supposed to be adjusted (or checked, at least) at 7500 mile intervals.

choneofakind · November 11th, 2012, 11:25 PM

Yes, that's what he was saying. He said he waited until 17000 miles.

ChaoSS · November 11th, 2012, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Yes, that's what he was saying. He said he waited until 17000 miles.

Yeah, but 249CC said it was supposed to be 12k.

choneofakind · November 11th, 2012, 11:30 PM

Gotcha. I didn't see that.

249cc · November 12th, 2012, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaoSS

Actually I believe the newgens are supposed to be adjusted (or checked, at least) at 7500 mile intervals.

According to the manual, we're both correct. You're supposed to check at the first 6k miles of the bike's life. Then 6k miles later, you check at 12k. But after 12k, the FSM doesn't say to check until 24k miles....so I'm guessing after the first two, you can wait a while. Ateast I hope so.

ChaoSS · November 12th, 2012, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 249cc

According to the manual, we're both correct. You're supposed to check at the first 6k miles of the bike's life. Then 6k miles later, you check at 12k. But after 12k, the FSM doesn't say to check until 24k miles....so I'm guessing after the first two, you can wait a while. Ateast I hope so.

Are you looking at KM or Miles? My Service manual says 7.5 thousand miles, 15 thousand miles, and 22.5 thousand miles, and it doesn't go any higher, I guess the assumption is that you keep checking at 7500 mile intervals.

And the 7.5k miles is 12k kms, which is why I asked if you are looking at miles or kms.

November 8th, 2012, 06:12 PM	#1
249cc QrtLtrDog Name: Chris Location: SoCal Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '09 250 Posts: 88	Want a current gen 250r, but I'm afraid of valve adjustments I'm coming from riding a pregen 250 that completely killed itself on the freeway a couple weeks ago. I was thinking about getting a Ninja 300 but no one would finance me. :\ In time, I could come up with the cash for a 250r. I figure that when I come up with extra money, I could turn over the 250 and buy the 300 in cash once its price goes down. As most of you know, the pregen's valve adjustment procedure is a DREAM...but I've read that the new gen is very difficult. What's worse, I looked at the thread in the stickies on this forum and the videos are down :[. What do I do?! I'm not the type to pay $300 to a dealer to do my services, plus, I don't trust 'em.

November 8th, 2012, 10:55 PM	#9
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	There are quite a bit of DIYs and guides out there. The main time-consuming part is taking off or moving a bunch of things so you can get an accurate measure of the valve lash. The actual adjustment requires a little more work but isn't that daunting. Grab a service manual and read up on the DIYs out there and TAKE YOUR TIME. If you have a garage you can dedicate a Saturday/Sunday to it or split it across both days. __________________________________________________

November 10th, 2012, 05:23 PM	#12
Kygirl ninjette.org member Name: Sarah Location: Kentucky Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 ninja 250R 1979 SuzukiGS425E Posts: 94	The valve adjustment is a bit more extensive for the newer gen 250. It is a different design than the pregen.The new gen uses buckets and shims unlike many other bikes (some BMWs old Hondas etc) that can be adjusted roadside with a flathead screwdriver. Hot cams makes a shim kit that works for the new gen 250. OR You can order individual shims from Kawasaki (part numbers are in the service manual) OR you can simply take the old shims to a good shop and they will match them up. My shop did it for less that $2 for each shim. Yes, it is a little time-consuming the first time but well worth the effort and not too difficult as long as you follow the manual. As far as the calculators and charts go it isn't as complicated as it might first appear. The charts are mainly organizational tools that help you remember which shims came from where.( intake or exhaust and cylinder #) Basically the shims must be a certain thickness. The "math" is just doing easy subtraction to figure out the thickness of the new shim you need to buy. (Don't forget that you might be able to use an old shim in a new position if the size is right!) Last futzed with by Kygirl; November 10th, 2012 at 06:37 PM.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

November 11th, 2012, 06:05 PM	#15
ChaoSS ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Goshen CA Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 red 250 ninja Posts: 740	Actually I believe the newgens are supposed to be adjusted (or checked, at least) at 7500 mile intervals.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

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November 8th, 2012, 09:11 PM	#2
Kygirl ninjette.org member Name: Sarah Location: Kentucky Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 ninja 250R 1979 SuzukiGS425E Posts: 94	Don't let the valve adjustment be the deciding factor in your purchase. It does take time , but with the help of this forum and a service manual (I read the diy but couldn't watch the videos due to crappy internet connection) it's not as hard as you might think. If you can follow directions you can do the valve adjustment on a 08-12 250r

November 8th, 2012, 10:44 PM	#4
YunMing ninjette.org member Name: Alexander Location: Santa Rosa Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): (Sold) 2007 Red Ninja 250r, 2003 Cbr 600 F4i Posts: 137	I did my valves the first time by myself you just need the gauges and the right tools. The process is actually fairly simple.

November 9th, 2012, 12:47 PM	#11
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Removing the cams isn't that bad. Just make sure to put the engine on 2T and get them all lined up when you're done. Don't let the different style of valve adjustments be a huge reason to not to buy a newer bike. Let it be a learning experience.

November 10th, 2012, 06:34 PM	#14
Kygirl ninjette.org member Name: Sarah Location: Kentucky Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 ninja 250R 1979 SuzukiGS425E Posts: 94	Yes, from what I understand, it is a benefit of the shim and bucket style of adjustment. More in-depth maintenance but longer miles between adjustments. Not a bad trade-off. For example according to the manual I waited far too long to do my first valve adjustment (17K miles) and mine weren't too far out of spec. Some were actually still in spec. Also, I just noticed that my earlier post could be confusing. I wrote "Your shims may not be as thick as they need to be so the "math" is just doing easy subtraction to figure out the thickness of the new shim you need to buy." I should have written "your shims may be thicker than they need to be" (remember clearance decreases as the miles go by in this arrangement). Just a grammar thing but it sounds confusing the way I originally wrote it. I just fixed the post. I wanted to make sure I didn't make it sound like the shim under bucket arrangement caused things to loosen as time went by.

November 11th, 2012, 11:25 PM	#16
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Yes, that's what he was saying. He said he waited until 17000 miles.

November 11th, 2012, 11:30 PM	#18
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Gotcha. I didn't see that.