Clutch plate gap

[Unicyclone]

Hello all,

I'm a new '02 ninja 250 owner, but have had a KLR for a couple years now.

Question is, what should the space be between the tabs on the edge of the friction plates, when it's all assembled? I measure 2.4 something mm.

The manual has spec for the friction plate thickness, but I can't measure that without disassembling it.

I have adjusted the cable, and it still slips a bit.

Assuming the clutch sounds like it's bad, what's my cheapest still decent bet for plates and springs?

Thanks!

[Alex]

/moved to pre-gen tech area

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Unicyclone

Hello all,

I'm a new '02 ninja 250 owner, but have had a KLR for a couple years now.

Question is, what should the space be between the tabs on the edge of the friction plates, when it's all assembled? I measure 2.4 something mm.

The manual has spec for the friction plate thickness, but I can't measure that without disassembling it.

I have adjusted the cable, and it still slips a bit.

Assuming the clutch sounds like it's bad, what's my cheapest still decent bet for plates and springs?

Thanks!

Okay first off I'm assuming your using the proper oil for a wet clutch?

Second the clutch on these bikes is pretty much bulletproof, the weak link is the springs, which are crap at best friend on Kawasaki, reason is they made them soft due to the Ninjette is an entry level bike.

Here my write-up on the subject

Upgrading to performance clutch springs by Ghostt

IMHO, The OEM clutch springs are soft/weak, and there's only 4 of them unlike bigger bikes like the Zx600, due to this is a beginner's bike according to Kawasaki, to make it easier for beginners male and female. This leads to slippage in certain cases, especially at high RPMs
This is an easy fix, replace with aftermarket performance springs.

Choosing Clutch Springs

Barnett aftermarket clutch springs for a 1985-1989 ZX-600, Part # 501-50-05055. You can view them online at the Barnett catalog, here: http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...&clutch_cc=600 They can be ordered through your local dealership, or at a number of online sources. Here is one such online catalog: http://www.exoticsportbike.com/6001.htm


Another option is the EBC CSK10 (see http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_..._springs.shtml). This kit isn't quite as stiff as the Barnett, but is better than stock and usually a little cheaper. The kit does include six springs, while the ninja 250 only uses four.
I have done this to both my Ninja 250 & EX 500


Final verdict:
The clutch pull is a little bit more stiff, but nothing to worry about. The shifts have more of a crisp and positive feel, and eliminating slippage is always a good thing when it comes to the clutch.
It's my personal opinion that this is a must do item, as it saves the clutch itself, and eliminates a possible problem especially when the springs get older.

[Z1R rider]

What I've done on a couple of mine is to put a washer under each of the factory spring retainers (4) to preload the springs. I never did find a washer the right inside and outside dimensions, so I found one that was right on the outside and made the hole right with a die grinder. The ones I used are 1.5 mm thick, 20 mm outside, and about (?) 12 mm inside. I know....doesn't sound like much preload, but it's worked on the 3 Ninjettes I've put them in.

[Ghostt]

Pre-load doesn't increase the spring weight itself, your still dealing with a spring which does a minimal job.

I highly recommend doing the spring upgrade, you won't be sorry you did, and you'll have happy with the results I'm sure.

[Unicyclone]

Sorry I posted in the wrong spot.

Thanks for the replies!

When I posted, I had lubed the clutch cable, but not replaced it.

I put a fresh cable in, and rode it 4000 miles with no issues. I did carry backup gasket/springs/friction plates for peace of mind though​.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Okay first off I'm assuming your using the proper oil for a wet clutch?

Second the clutch on these bikes is pretty much bulletproof, the weak link is the springs, which are crap at best friend on Kawasaki, reason is they made them soft due to the Ninjette is an entry level bike.

Here my write-up on the subject

Upgrading to performance clutch springs by Ghostt

IMHO, The OEM clutch springs are soft/weak, and there's only 4 of them unlike bigger bikes like the Zx600, due to this is a beginner's bike according to Kawasaki, to make it easier for beginners male and female. This leads to slippage in certain cases, especially at high RPMs
This is an easy fix, replace with aftermarket performance springs.

Choosing Clutch Springs

Barnett aftermarket clutch springs for a 1985-1989 ZX-600, Part # 501-50-05055. You can view them online at the Barnett catalog, here: http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...&clutch_cc=600 They can be ordered through your local dealership, or at a number of online sources. Here is one such online catalog: http://www.exoticsportbike.com/6001.htm


Another option is the EBC CSK10 (see http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_..._springs.shtml). This kit isn't quite as stiff as the Barnett, but is better than stock and usually a little cheaper. The kit does include six springs, while the ninja 250 only uses four.
I have done this to both my Ninja 250 & EX 500


Final verdict:
The clutch pull is a little bit more stiff, but nothing to worry about. The shifts have more of a crisp and positive feel, and eliminating slippage is always a good thing when it comes to the clutch.
It's my personal opinion that this is a must do item, as it saves the clutch itself, and eliminates a possible problem especially when the springs get older.

I put Barnett clutch springs on my 82' Honda FT500. They were too stiff. I removed them after a two mile ride and gave them away.

Bill

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Z1R rider

What I've done on a couple of mine is to put a washer under each of the factory spring retainers (4) to preload the springs. I never did find a washer the right inside and outside dimensions, so I found one that was right on the outside and made the hole right with a die grinder. The ones I used are 1.5 mm thick, 20 mm outside, and about (?) 12 mm inside. I know....doesn't sound like much preload, but it's worked on the 3 Ninjettes I've put them in.

I've been reading about fork spring pre-load spacers here and on other forums. One guy says 1 1/2" spacers work for him. The only thing I've done to my forks is replaced the fork oil with 15w and installed real snap rings in the fork caps. I weigh 180lbs and wouldn't touch the springs or adjust the preload. Maybe it's beacuse I'm an old fart and don't ride too aggressively, or, maybe that's why I have lived for 69 years. Just sayin'.

Bill

[Ghostt]

Setting up suspension is to one's personal taste, and how they ride, setting the sag is important, like spring weight, oil, etc....

I set mine up for what I like, I cut and spaced out my OEM springs, 15 wt oil, and a Zx6 rear shock.

Adding pre-load to a spring doesn't increase its weight, it effect sag, ride, etc....

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Setting up suspension is to one's personal taste, and how they ride, setting the sag is important, like spring weight, oil, etc....

I set mine up for what I like, I cut and spaced out my OEM springs, 15 wt oil, and a Zx6 rear shock.

Adding pre-load to a spring doesn't increase its weight, it effect sag, ride, etc....

I get about 1 1/2" sag on my EX500 rear shock and nearly no sag on my stock front forks. Right, it's a mater of taste/preference. I'm of the Colon Chapman/Lotus school of suspensions - "light springing and heavy damping". Works for me.

Bill