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Old November 6th, 2018, 01:19 PM   #1
Kennylxix
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Noise with Clutch Out

I recently bought a 92 250 and got it running today. I noticed that at idle with the clutch out I'm getting a bit of noise from the transmission. It's like an extra clunk with each ignition impulse. It's not very loud but it is noticable. As soon as I pull the clutch in it stops so I'm guessing it's coming from the clutch itself or input side of the trans.

I know all bikes have noises associated with them that are nomal and each model has its own personality but this is my first ninja 250 so I'm not sure if this is normal.

Insight is appreciated.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 01:23 PM   #2
Kennylxix
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Ok. So i just found the info on the ninja250 will about the clutch basket bumpers deteriorating. Does this sound about right to you guys from what I described?
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Old November 6th, 2018, 01:56 PM   #3
Kennylxix
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Yeah. It's that for sure. I'll be looking for a cheap one on eBay to rebuild.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 03:42 PM   #4
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I'm in the process of doing a Next-Gen clutch transplant on my '07 Pre-Gen EX250, which means installing the entire clutch basket assembly from an EX250J ('08 to '12) on my '07 EX250F.

The Pre-Gen EX250 clutch basket used rubber bumpers as dampers, which was a real cheapo decision by Kawasaki. I can understand Kawasaki had to make some cost-saving moves on a high sales volume beginner bike like the EX250. On the good side the rest of the EX250's engine is of very good quality.

I've been in the EX250 world for over a decade now and I've seen a lot of complaints about the clutch dampers. The durability of these rubber bumpers was very hit-or-miss, with some bikes developing problems at low mileage while other bikes just kept piling on miles without any clutch basket trouble. I guess it might be down to something as simple as how an individual rider handles the clutch (just true that some people are smoother than others).

There must have been enough blow-back on this issue to make Kawasaki switch to using metal springs as clutch basket dampers when it designed the Next-Gen EX250.

So far I've just been gathering the necessary parts to do the swap: Purchased a complete clutch basket assembly from a low-miles, parted-out '09 EX250 off of Ebay, purchased a new clutch cover gasket and new set of EBC clutch springs from Partzilla.

I'll be doing the actual instal work after the Christmas season is over. I'll come back to this thread to post about the work when I get to do it.

Here's a link to a thread here on the forum where guys were discussing this transplant a couple of years ago: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...t+modification
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Old November 6th, 2018, 03:45 PM   #5
Kennylxix
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Hmm. Well as as the newer model clutch is a direct swap I'll probably just.go that route. Has anyone actually done the swap? I e seen several theoretical swaps but no physical ones.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 03:59 PM   #6
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The link I included in my post (above) has a guy who did the complete transplant with success. The only modification he had to make was including a 2mm thick washer in between the "shoulder" of the clutch actuation rod and the clutch pressure plate bearing.

Apparently there's a very slight difference in the overall stack-height of the Pre-Gen and New-Gen clutch basket assemblies with the New-Gen being the slightly higher (taller) stack, which means that without the 2mm washer acting as a shim the Pre-Gen clutch lever arm wouldn't be able pull enough to completely disengage clutch plates.

I plan to do some careful measurements of the two assemblies along with pictures when I'm doing my transplant so I can pass on a precise description of the situation to other people here on the forum.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 04:01 PM   #7
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Excellent. Thanks!

So far I'm enjoying the bike. I've only ridden it a tiny bit but it's been pretty nice to work on.

I'm coming from riding cruisers for about a decade and I forgot how much fun a "sport" bike is.
It also helps that I got the bike for practically no money. Cheap fun is the best fun!
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Old November 6th, 2018, 04:35 PM   #8
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If you mean the noticeable but not loud noise when it's idling with the lever out (clutch engaged), the noise is common on pregen 250s. It's not harmful, just a little annoying if you listen to it. I ignore it. You can dig in and install new parts to make it go away if you feel the need.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 03:38 PM   #9
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Make sure that you clean out the oil screen as the rubber had to end up somewhere.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 04:43 PM   #10
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Right, if the rubber is really coming apart. I'm assuming what usually happens is the rubber shrinks a bit and things rattle around. I've checked my screen, and there was no rubber in there, even though my clutch has the slight rattle.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 04:47 PM   #11
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Some pretty nasty pictures of the worst case here:

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What%2..._the_clutch%3F
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Old November 7th, 2018, 08:35 PM   #12
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I read that article when I first got my 250. According to the first sentence:

"There is probably nothing wrong with your clutch. There is seldom any real trouble from clutches on the EX250. They all make noise, even when brand new. 'Normal' is somewhere between barely noticeable and totally annoying. It's a relatively expensive fix, so this is not something everyone needs to run out and do... until it starts to sound like someone is pounding on the motor with a sledgehammer."

It goes on to say:

"To determine if the noise you're hearing is from the clutch basket, start your bike, hold the brakes tight, put it in gear, and with the brakes still applied, let out the clutch until the motor starts to slow (known as 'slipping the clutch'). If your clutch basket has some slop, the drag will pull the bumpers solidly to one side and the noise will temporarily go away.

This issue isn't really a problem unless it gets excessive."

I don't think it's a good idea to get a newcomer to the board with a recently purchased 250 to think he needs to do a lot of work to his bike, just because he said " I'm getting a bit of noise from the transmission.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 10:04 PM   #13
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Oh I wasn't trying to suggest that he should do the swap, I was just trying to show why you should check the oil screen because i'm guessing he doesn't know the service history.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 05:25 AM   #14
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Actually, shouldn't checking the bike's oil screen be the first step in the diagnosing this issue?

If you find hard, black rubber bits sitting on the oil screen it can only have come from one place inside the engine. If you don't find any evidence of rubber bits you're probably hearing something else, like maybe the cam chain or maybe the engine actually does have a main bearing problem.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 04:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceeloo Yello View Post
Oh I wasn't trying to suggest that he should do the swap, I was just trying to show why you should check the oil screen because i'm guessing he doesn't know the service history.
I wasn't accusing anyone in particular, it's just that the tone of the thread seemed to be leaning toward encouraging Ken to do fairly major work when it isn't known that it's needed.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 05:22 PM   #16
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W.T.F. people, the original poster is a full grown adult, he'll put his big-boy pants on and make his own decisions. Don't think he needs any of us to come to his rescue/protection.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 09:16 PM   #17
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The OP said he's new to 250s and hears a "bit of noise" with his clutch lever out at idle. Then he asked for insight. Adulthood and pants aside, the right thing to do is let him know that in most cases that noise is completely normal and is nothing that requires fixing.

Ceeloo Yello's suggestion to check the oil screen is a good one, and should let him know if the rubber bushings are doing more than just shrinking a little.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 05:11 PM   #18
Kennylxix
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Ugh. Second time saying this as the original post didn't take.

Engage big boy pants!
I bought a 2012 clutch complete on eBay. My frictions are shot and the one i got has low mileage so they "should" be good which saves me the $50 for new frictions (yes I know they can be had cheaper but I learned my lesson on crap frictions long ago). I'll figure out the needed spacer when I get to it.

I'm a professional mechanic and knew as soon as I found out the mod could be done that I'd be doing it. I love to tinker and rarely leave well enough alone.

Oil change soon. Will check screen then.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 05:15 PM   #19
Kennylxix
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Oh and the noise definitely is more then what I would consider normal now that I've messed with it more. I'm sure it would go like that for a long time but I for one can't listen to things clacking like that.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 06:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennylxix View Post
Ugh. Second time saying this as the original post didn't take.

Engage big boy pants!
I bought a 2012 clutch complete on eBay. My frictions are shot and the one i got has low mileage so they "should" be good which saves me the $50 for new frictions (yes I know they can be had cheaper but I learned my lesson on crap frictions long ago). I'll figure out the needed spacer when I get to it.

I'm a professional mechanic and knew as soon as I found out the mod could be done that I'd be doing it. I love to tinker and rarely leave well enough alone.

Oil change soon. Will check screen then.
By any chance was that the one I was watching at $80?
I got an email saying it was now $8 off but when I checked it was already sold.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 06:47 PM   #21
Kennylxix
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Hmm no. This one was $85 but it came with all the bearings and pushrod etc. Off a 2012 with 7k miles.
The one you were looking at was an 08 with 13k it looks like. Not sure I would have trusted the frictions on that one.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 06:54 PM   #22
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Oh ok, maybe a run on then now.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 07:07 PM   #23
Kennylxix
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Yeah the cheapest one on there now is $90 but no mention of mileage on the bike it came off of.

So along with the clutch I need to do the forks, a rear tire, brake pads and misc maintenance. All in after getting a tailbag and registration I'll have $800 in it. It's not mint looking but it is decent. I think that's a reasonable investment.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 07:22 PM   #24
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Might I also suggest doing the newgen oil screen cover swap?
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Old November 9th, 2018, 07:22 PM   #25
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Details please?
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Old November 9th, 2018, 07:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennylxix View Post
Details please?
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changi...ver/drain_plug

I did it, no regrets.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 07:45 PM   #27
Kennylxix
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Hmm. I'll keep my eyes out for a cheap one. I'm not too worried about messing up the threads on the stock drain but I do like me some mods
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Old November 9th, 2018, 07:51 PM   #28
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I got mine for less than $20. I'm old school I like things with fins.
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