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Old March 11th, 2016, 11:19 AM   #1
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Worldwide bearings. Com

Worldwide bearings. Com
These are ceramic wheel and transmission bearings for the 250 Ninja.
I ordered these bearings because everyone that races says they are a definite improvement. They reduce rolling resistance and friction.

I will do this DIY to show how to install the bearings. It is easy to do the wheel bearings with simple hand tools. The trans bearings involve splitting the case. But it is not difficult. Again with hand tools or during a rebuild it is simple to do.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 11:24 AM   #2
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Ceramics ain't cheap....what's the cost on them? Proper lube to use or are they the self lubing type?

Part numbers??
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Old March 11th, 2016, 12:04 PM   #3
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review as well?
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Old March 11th, 2016, 12:16 PM   #4
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Ceramics are amazing, on my zx-10rs I ran them in the transmission and wheels. World wide bearings makes top quality stuff to!
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Old March 11th, 2016, 12:39 PM   #5
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Looking forward to the DIY!
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Old March 11th, 2016, 12:56 PM   #6
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I wonder what the dyno pull for a ninja 250 stock vs ninja 250 with ceramic Bearings, aluminum sprocket, titanium sprocket nuts, and a 415 chain conversion would be... It would be a perfect example of how you can cheat dynopulls.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 01:01 PM   #7
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I wonder what the dyno pull for a ninja 250 stock vs ninja 250 with ceramic Bearings, aluminum sprocket, titanium sprocket nuts, and a 415 chain conversion would be... It would be a perfect example of how you can cheat dynopulls.
The inertia of the rear wheel and tire would dominate on the bike side of things, so lighter wheels and tires would show a much larger difference (though still negligible, I assume).
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Old March 11th, 2016, 01:24 PM   #8
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The people at the land speed racing mile track say three mph difference between stock bearings no speedo no seals and ceramic.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 01:54 PM   #9
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The people at the land speed racing mile track say three mph difference between stock bearings no speedo no seals and ceramic.
This is a good point. We should emphasize that dyno pulls and top-speed runs are limited by different mechanisms (e.g. you don't care about the inertia of the wheels and tires in a top speed run because they will be turning at a constant rate at top speed, meaning that you'll be limited by engine and drivetrain losses.)
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Old March 11th, 2016, 01:54 PM   #10
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The people at the land speed racing mile track say three mph difference between stock bearings no speedo no seals and ceramic.
The no seals bit I think is a hang up there for me. Are the ceramic bearings sealed at all themselves? I assume "no seals" means ditching the OEM outer seal? I guess on a racebike its just a bit of added maintenance but I would prefer them sealed for piece of mind.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 02:53 PM   #11
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The ceramic bearings are sealed. I remove the outer dust seals . But but not the bearing seals. And for the salt. I would leave all the seals in
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Old March 11th, 2016, 03:32 PM   #12
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Cost?, longevity? Vs OEM?

Gotta e-mail them for available and prices? I sent one and I'm waiting for a response, I will post their response.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 04:10 PM   #13
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Wheel bearing kit is 325.00 trans set is 175.00. I don't know about longevity. But less friction usually means less wear.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 04:32 PM   #14
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WOW!!! I'm afraid I'll have to pass, too rich for my blood for now.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 06:15 PM   #15
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Speed cost. That is just the way it goes. It definitely put a dent in my budget. But for three mph I have spent more and gotten less. I am playing with the big boys and girls so it's step up or stay home.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 06:19 PM   #16
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To install the wheel bearings you need simple tools. First you must remove the wheels. This is a simple thing and is covered in the manual so I won't go into that.

Once you have the wheels off. Use a seal puller or flat screw driver. Prying the seals out carefully will not damage them. I would recommend cleaning everything with simple green or break clean before you begin.


The tool needed are..
Snap ring players
A screw driver
long punch
and a hammer
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Old March 11th, 2016, 06:28 PM   #17
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Speed cost. That is just the way it goes. It definitely put a dent in my budget. But for three mph I have spent more and gotten less. I am playing with the big boys and girls so it's step up or stay home.
What gets you 3mph at 180mph might not neccasacry do anything at 123mph.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 07:44 PM   #18
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No, that is on both the 250 ninja And the 300. Both teams gained 3mph with the bearings and no other changes. The 200 mph teams are on a different level. I don't even know how they react to changes like this. But I do know they all use the ceramic bearings.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 07:54 PM   #19
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Eric there's no necessity for you to justify your decision.
If in the end the result is 123.370 mph it will proof you did the right thing.
Good luck for your challenge
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Old March 11th, 2016, 08:30 PM   #20
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My 123 was a bad run and I can go much faster with a good run and favorable weather. My best run without nitrous was below 113. And the orange bike went 109 wth consistanly enough to say that it could run 110.
Greg Neal with TLN racing has a stock 250 ninja. I gave him a cut down tank and my old 88 ignition module. And I help him with tuning. His bike ran 109 fairly consistently. Then with the ceramic bearings it went 112. I was shocked. Then Rachel Johnson picked up 3 mph on her tuned 300 ninja. After that ceramic bearing went from somthing I always wanted to somthing I need to be competitive. I don't have money to spend much less money to waste. But I bought the bearings.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 08:37 AM   #21
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Front wheel first

After removing the front wheel and the speedometer drive . I find a nice flat serface. Like a work bench or even a piece of plywood on the floor.

Lay the wheel on its side. Brake disc up.
Then carefully remove the dust seals. I use a screw driver and use a twisting action and go around and pry the seal out. It would be easyer to replace the seals. But that is not always an option. First clean everything and get the screwdriver under the actual lip of the seal.

Once the seal is out. Wipe out the grease and you will see a snap ring. This is next. Sometimes they can be stuck. A punch and hammer can be used to carefully dislodge the ring . Put the point in the snap ring hole and gently tap it until you see it spring back. Then use snap ring plyers to remove
Next use a rod to knock out the bearings. The rod I use is 3/8 in diameter and slightly mushroomed. The mushroomed part is what I use to get the edge of the bearing. You put the rod through the upper bearing on the brake disc side. Slide it in at an angle . You will feel the lip of the bearing. Then tap the bearing out.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 08:44 AM   #22
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These are the parts inside the bearing that need to be removed. I don't have seals to show you. Or a seedometer drive. But te bearing and support tube should come out like those in the photo. Clean everything well and use a scotch bright to scrub stage serface inside until every bit of paint or crud is gone. You want to clean and smooth for the next step.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 01:48 PM   #23
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If I was track only, then I can see the advantage of a few seconds faster, but for street use, well I shall see if I come into some disposable income then sure why not, but not at this time.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy View Post
I wonder what the dyno pull for a ninja 250 stock vs ninja 250 with ceramic Bearings, aluminum sprocket, titanium sprocket nuts, and a 415 chain conversion would be... It would be a perfect example of how you can cheat dynopulls.
It's not cheating a dyno pull. Power not wasted to friction is power put to the wheel.

Friction, inertia, etc, all require power. Reduce those and you're putting more to the wheel. Sure you're not "making" more power, but you're getting more. I don't see why you think it's "cheating". Obviously inertia is a drag on transitional power instead of peak power, but that still doesn't make it a cheat.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:03 PM   #25
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It's not cheating a dyno pull. Power not wasted to friction is power put to the wheel.

Friction, inertia, etc, all require power. Reduce those and you're putting more to the wheel. Sure you're not "making" more power, but you're getting more. I don't see why you think it's "cheating".
Sure it's not actually cheating, but a lighter chain and better bearings will make a bigger difference on a dyno than in real life.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:04 PM   #26
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Sure it's not actually cheating, but a lighter chain and better bearings will make a bigger difference on a dyno than in real life.
In what sense are you saying this? Again, numbers are numbers. Those are more objective (if done properly so as not to add more variables) than the butt dyno ever is.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:05 PM   #27
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Using the available HP more efficiently isn't cheating, its just smart.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:44 PM   #28
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In what sense are you saying this? Again, numbers are numbers. Those are more objective (if done properly so as not to add more variables) than the butt dyno ever is.
Yes, numbers are numbers, but there might be some truth to those differences. On the road, the motor has to accelerate the entire motorcycle. On the dyno, the motor has to accelerate just the rear wheel and the connected drivetrain parts, and the dyno drum itself. Shaving weight off the rear wheel (or drivetrain in general) will definitely improve both the dyno numbers and the real world numbers. But if the accelerated mass in its entirety is less on the dyno, compared to the accelerated mass of the entire bike on the road, the improvement will seem higher. Same with reduced friction. No matter what, reduced friction is better than increased friction. But the effects might not translate exactly/linearly/proportionally.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:54 PM   #29
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^That is what I was trying to say.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 02:55 PM   #30
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Old March 12th, 2016, 03:12 PM   #31
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Fair enough. The small increase in tractive force is small, so when there's a significant mass being accelerated, it's not a life altering powe bump.

Not sure if that deserves being called a cheat or not, but hey. Power saved is power to the wheel.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 03:37 PM   #32
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It's only cheating if it is agenced the rules.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 03:46 PM   #33
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Last resort, go on a diet, HP/weight ratio.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 04:13 PM   #34
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With lad speed racing weight is less important than road racing. In drag racing weight is critical.

With road racing breaking and acceleration are the key to better lap times. With drag racing it is a pure power vs weight to accelerate mass from a stand still to max speed as quickly as possable.
Land speed racing is power vs aerodynamics ss weight is not a big factor. Once the body is in motion the weight becomes less important or even can help as wind gusts can slow down a light object easyer than a heavy one.
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Old March 12th, 2016, 07:03 PM   #35
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So if one rider weighs 120 lbs, and another weighs 260 it doesn't make a difference??
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Old March 12th, 2016, 07:04 PM   #36
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The only difference would be the 260lb guy is less areodynamic
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Old March 12th, 2016, 07:18 PM   #37
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Yes and no
Land speed racing is about personal goals as much as records. So once the 260 lb guy makes a run. Then adds somthing that reduces drag ,then runs again. If he or she went faster then it helped.
But if the 260 lb rider is unable to get into an aerodynamic tuck that is not as clean as the 120 lb guy then it matters. Or if the power is very low and the track is short then the weight matters.
I am 200 lb in my full leather gear. In 2009 My bike with no fairing went 104 six runs in a row. A friend that is Sixty pounds lighter made two passes on my bike and went 104 each time. In that case the weight made no difference.
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Old March 13th, 2016, 06:27 AM   #38
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Join Date: May 2009

Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawmeracchi 350 2010 Project X

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MOTM - Sep '18, Feb '16
To instal the bearings it is fairly streight forward. After removing the bearings from the wheels and the gear holder. Clean everything with brake clean and scrub the inside of the wheel with a scotch bright. You really want everything very clean. Next I put te bearings in the freezer for a couple hours. Not over night or for a long time as condensation can develop.

I start with the bearing that has the snap ring. There is a small hole behind it that will support the inner tube. So start from that side.

Next I use a propane torch but I would recommend a heat gun.( I don't have one) but I heat the wheel slightly. Not a lot but enough so it is hot to the touch. Then working fast I instal one bearing. They should just drop in. But if you need to push the bearings. I use a socket.
Make sure the socket only pushed on the outer steel edge of the bearing. Make sure it is not to big. It won't fit if it is. And if it is to small. There is a real danger of damaging the bearing. Do not push on the seal. Use the back of the socket. The flat part and tap the bearing into place.
Next the support tube goes in. It should slide in and touch the bearing on the other side. One side has a small hole behind the bearing and that will help support the sleeve..
Then you can install the other side.
Next lube the dust seal with a little grease and tap them in and you are done.

This is a photo of the parts of the rear wheel
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Old March 13th, 2016, 06:33 AM   #39
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Name: Eric
Location: Iowa City
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MOTM - Sep '18, Feb '16
After installing the front wheel I gave it a spin.
Now this is a VERY UNSCIENTIFIC TEST. But this is what I have found. A stock 250 ninja front wheel with speedo brake disc and all the seals with spin for about 30 seconds. Like I said I just gave it a light spin. Not a big spin . With out brakes and seals it will spin for a muinite and a half and stop.

With the new ceramic bearings it spun and spun for three and a half muinite. And at the end it turned very slow. As it stopped it turned around and rotated back reviling the light spot. I had to move my balance weight twice to get the wheel to slowly rotate to a stop. Then I could move it and it would not rotate back to the light spot. I think that shows a definite difference.
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Old March 13th, 2016, 06:38 AM   #40
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Name: Ryan
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When doing bottom end rebuilds I used to put the engine cases in the oven on warm. Rims are heat treated though, so it would likely be better to prevent them from getting to hot.
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