DIY- Oil Change - Page 11

nah.uhh · July 17th, 2011, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LazyMaxy

Thanks. I will definitely take my time.. also is it ok to do the oil change on the side stand? Don't have one of those other things yet..

I actually prefer doing it on the sidestand, from the right side
But you have to check the oil level with the bike vertical/perpendicular to the ground

kkim · July 17th, 2011, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LazyMaxy

is it ok to do the oil change on the side stand?

yep... it does make it a bit harder to work, but it can be done. just make sure to stand the bike up vertical when reading the oil level in the sight glass.

LazyMaxy · July 18th, 2011, 04:37 AM

Cool! Thanks for the help.

LazyMaxy · July 29th, 2011, 06:44 AM

This helped big time. Just did first oil change. Runs great no leaks or funny noises! Thanks

Used Pennzoil 10w40 with k&n-401 filter. Had to order the filter from my auto parts store so I had them get me two to save some time down the road. My used oil had one really tiny pebble shaped metal piece and lots of little shavings (can't see them unless you move it around a lot). Didn't change the crush washer as my local mechanic advised me it's not necessary to replace every oil change unless the drain plug was previously overtightened. And he also told me that what he meant by overtightened is like taking a hammer to the socket wrench. So I think it'll be ok.

Honko · August 1st, 2011, 12:10 PM

Is there any significant difference between "high-mileage" oils and normal oils that I should be worried about. I did my recent oil change with this:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ge_10W-40.aspx

because it was the only synthetic 10W-40 I could find at the wal-mart I went to. It's fully synthetic (not a mix) and it isn't energy-conserving so I figured it was okay, but I just want to make sure. Probably should have asked a while ago

dubojr1 · August 1st, 2011, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Honko

Is there any significant difference between "high-mileage" oils and normal oils that I should be worried about. I did my recent oil change with this:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ge_10W-40.aspx

because it was the only synthetic 10W-40 I could find at the wal-mart I went to. It's fully synthetic (not a mix) and it isn't energy-conserving so I figured it was okay, but I just want to make sure. Probably should have asked a while ago

I've always heard that the "high mileage" oils are just a sales tactic. I'm no expert on them though. Was the oil you purchased non energy conserving?

Honko · August 1st, 2011, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubojr1

I've always heard that the "high mileage" oils are just a sales tactic. I'm no expert on them though. Was the oil you purchased non energy conserving?

It is in fact non-energy conserving (the bottom half of the circle is empty) which is why I figured it was fine to use, just wanted some opinions on if there is anything different in the formulation of the oil I should be worried about to make sure.

dubojr1 · August 1st, 2011, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Honko

It is in fact non-energy conserving (the bottom half of the circle is empty) which is why I figured it was fine to use, just wanted some opinions on if there is anything different in the formulation of the oil I should be worried about to make sure.

Have a read of this noting the JASO spec...

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...66&postcount=7

The Mobil you posted is probably not a good choice.

Pete22x · August 3rd, 2011, 10:17 AM

Thanks for that write up. As soon as it stops raining I'm gonna attempt changing my own oil! I am not so mechanically inclined as I wish I were.

Honko · August 3rd, 2011, 11:31 AM

I have never been much of a gear head (I've never even changed the oil in my car), but this was still incredibly easy. Good luck! Be prepared to give the bolt on the filter some muscle, it was a pita for me to get mine off.

Cuongism · August 26th, 2011, 02:07 PM

Adding pics for reference:

setasai · August 26th, 2011, 02:59 PM

Just wanted to say thanks for the clearly annotated photos.

YORCHI · September 1st, 2011, 01:43 PM

I have a dumb question to ask that I didn't see asked or answered in this thread...

So I got everything ready to do the bikes first oil change at 250 miles today but I was wondering something about checking the oil itself. Is it fine to check the oil in the mornings after the bike has been sitting all night so the oil can collect all the way at the bottom. I noticed that mine seems to be right at or slightly under the low mark on the sight glass.

So is it fine to check in the morning or should it always be checked after the bike has been warmed up?

Cuongism · September 1st, 2011, 01:46 PM

You can do it with the oil hot or cold. You do have to wait a few minutes for the oil to settle if you're just turning off the ignition.

YORCHI · September 1st, 2011, 02:22 PM

Okay so my oil is low then...good thing I'm doing an oil change today

YORCHI · September 1st, 2011, 09:24 PM

It was pretty easy changing the oil, but I wasn't expecting a challenge since it couldn't be harder than changing it on a regular car where you need a jack, jack stands, and then to crawl on ur back and stuff...

Anyways, I filled it up using one entire quart, and then slightly under the 1/4 mark on the second bottle. I turned the bike on and let it run for several minutes while I cleaned up everything and then lowered the bike off the stand. Called the wifey over to help me check the sight glass while I held it level and she said the oil was just below the top line which is good for me.

After that we went on a nice ride to make sure everything was good and now the bike is parked and sleeping comfortably. Tomorrow morning I'll do another check on the oil level to make sure I didn't over fill it.

Thanks to everyone that posted advice or information here. It was very helpful!

YORCHI · September 2nd, 2011, 12:37 PM

so going slightly below the 1/4 mark on a quart of oil is too much oil

I had to drain some out of the drain plug this morning...hopefully I didn't damage anything on my 25 mile ride yesterday with too much oil in the bike

Now the level is sitting steadily between both marks

eds2fitty · September 2nd, 2011, 01:10 PM

Quick question: does the k&n filter come with the rubber o-rings or are those purchased separately?

Cuongism · September 2nd, 2011, 01:48 PM

k&n 401 comes with the o-rings

areion457 · September 15th, 2011, 01:20 PM

Thanks for the images Cuongism! Although, the original post from KKIM has 30+ images. Any chance that you have a copy of those that I could get? I'm looking to make a little manual for myself and it's tough when all that shows up now are little blocks. Thanks!

koenigcitizen · October 14th, 2011, 05:28 AM

The links to the pictures in DYI are broken.

Anyway to get those fixed? That would be awesome!

I will be attempting my first oil change soon

dubojr1 · October 14th, 2011, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koenigcitizen

The links to the pictures in DYI are broken.

Anyway to get those fixed? That would be awesome!

I will be attempting my first oil change soon

New pictures are needed to repair this DIY. Hopefully we will have this fixed soon but in the mean time I'll PM you something you can use. GL!

areion457 · October 14th, 2011, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koenigcitizen

The links to the pictures in DYI are broken.

Anyway to get those fixed? That would be awesome!

I will be attempting my first oil change soon

Hi Andrei!

I've attached a PDF that I found from a user on this forum with all the images from KKIM's original post. I forget her name but she's awesome for having done that! I had already changed the oil in my bike by the time I found it, so I didn't know to change both of my o rings. I will on my next (second) oil change though. Oh and remember to change your crush washer if you can. Good luck!

koenigcitizen · October 14th, 2011, 10:34 AM

dubojr1, areion457,

Thank you so much! This helps a lot!

dubojr1 · October 14th, 2011, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by areion457

Hi Andrei!

I've attached a PDF that I found from a user on this forum with all the images from KKIM's original post. I forget her name but she's awesome for having done that! I had already changed the oil in my bike by the time I found it, so I didn't know to change both of my o rings. I will on my next (second) oil change though. Oh and remember to change your crush washer if you can. Good luck!

That's awesome!!!

Alex: Can we use the pdf pictures to correct the DIY???

areion457 · October 14th, 2011, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubojr1

That's awesome!!!

Alex: Can we use the pdf pictures to correct the DIY???

If Alex approves, I can extract all the images out of the PDF and post them as a zipped file for the post to be updated

dubojr1 · October 14th, 2011, 11:35 AM

I'm sure he will.

Prepare those pics.... we're gonna fix this DIY!!!

Thanks in advance for your help!

Alex · October 14th, 2011, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubojr1

That's awesome!!!

Alex: Can we use the pdf pictures to correct the DIY???

Yup! That's how I recreated a bunch of the rest. I hadn't realized we had a PDF of this one as well.

If anyone has any more lying around somewhere, please let me know...

Quote:

Originally Posted by areion457

If Alex approves, I can extract all the images out of the PDF and post them as a zipped file for the post to be updated

No need, I've got a tool that does exactly that.

areion457 · October 14th, 2011, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

Yup! That's how I recreated a bunch of the rest. I hadn't realized we had a PDF of this one as well.

If anyone has any more lying around somewhere, please let me know...

No need, I've got a tool that does exactly that.

In case you didn't get a chance to run your tool on the PDF, I had already extracted all of them in Acrobat

They're all numbered for organizational purposes

C L · October 15th, 2011, 12:48 PM

I've got a question about the crush washers.
Is it supposed to look like this? I went to the Nissan dealer to get part #11026-01M02 because the wiki said it was the equivalent for our 250r's. At the dealer the parts guy gave me part # 11026-JA00A saying it was the exact same item.

Looks like this:

rz3r0 · October 15th, 2011, 04:38 PM

I did not see a crush washer when I oil changed... and I never put a crush washer in there. Is my bike okay? I already ran like 200 miles after the oil change, no problems so far though.

Boom King · October 15th, 2011, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rz3r0

I did not see a crush washer when I oil changed... and I never put a crush washer in there. Is my bike okay? I already ran like 200 miles after the oil change, no problems so far though.

If you torqued the drain bolt according to specs and there are no leaks then you should be fine. Just grab some next time before you do your next oil change.

rz3r0 · October 15th, 2011, 05:11 PM

Torqued it by feel, no leaks, and I pickued up some washers for next time. So I hope I'll be fine.

Alex · October 15th, 2011, 06:14 PM

OK - thanks all, the initial pics have been reloaded into post 1 and 2 of this thread. If folks suggest that there are even better pics to replace 'em with (I like some of Cuong's), I'm up for that as well, just let me know.

kevheads · October 15th, 2011, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C L

I've got a question about the crush washers.
Is it supposed to look like this? I went to the Nissan dealer to get part #11026-01M02 because the wiki said it was the equivalent for our 250r's. At the dealer the parts guy gave me part # 11026-JA00A saying it was the exact same item.

Looks like this:

I have a 2011 and my crush washers look nothing like that. The Kaw. dealership had to order me a couple new ones so I just reused the original for my first 2 oil changes with no problems

Ichiro · October 15th, 2011, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C L

I've got a question about the crush washers.
Is it supposed to look like this?

Looks like this:

Doesn't look like the crush washer for the 250.

dubojr1 · October 17th, 2011, 10:17 AM

Here's a picture of a used one but you get the idea...

CZroe · March 7th, 2012, 06:08 PM

I just wanted to point out that the DIY itself did not mention replacing the crush washer. He only mentioned it sticking to the engine. If Alex could edit that in there, that would be great.

Anyway: I lied. That isn't all I wanted to point out. I wanted to say that I had the opposite problem with my crush washer: I couldn't get it off the drain bolt! It would spin when all the way on but would immediately cross-thread when trying to take it off (no way to stay perfectly perpendicular). I just had to clamp it in some vice grips and thread it out, hoping that I don't damage the drain bolt threads. The other concern is that the replacement that I got from a dealer has a much smaller outer diameter, so I wouldn't be able to get it in the vice grips again if it happened again.

I went to the dealer with a list of compatible oil filters and the first they had in stock was one of the Honda ones. The big O-ring was very different than the one with my K&N filter that I was replacing. The K&N filter's O-ring was flat on one side and the Honda one was perfectly round. It was also frustratingly large. I remember being a little annoyed when trying to fit the K&N one in last year but this one was crazy. I would carefully push in two opposite sides with an equal amount of slack between them and then turn 90-degrees and do it again and then turn 45-degrees and do it again then 90-degrees again but the slack would always pop out somewhere and leave me chasing the lump all the way around. Eventually, I got it to stay down all around but I have no idea if it stayed during/after installation. I can say one thing for certain: I will not be buying the Honda filter again! I think I'll go with Wix next time because I know they are American-made.

Alex · March 7th, 2012, 09:03 PM

Where should I or could I edit? I'm happy to do it, just tell me what post where you think it makes sense.

Mr.E · April 21st, 2012, 08:27 PM

So I Changed my oil. First, it came out too over filled. Now, the oil drain plug won't screw in. it tightens, then last second loosens. Is it the screw, or the case? Do I have to take it to kawasaki?? Ugh. Bad day. Help please.

EDIT As I was doing this, and trying to figure out why it wouldn't screw, I did notice some metal shavings on my hand. What could this mean? Thanks.

July 18th, 2011, 04:37 AM	#403
LazyMaxy ninjette.org member Name: Andrew Location: Long Island Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250r Posts: 30	oil change side stand Cool! Thanks for the help.

July 29th, 2011, 06:44 AM	#404
LazyMaxy ninjette.org member Name: Andrew Location: Long Island Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250r Posts: 30	oil change This helped big time. Just did first oil change. Runs great no leaks or funny noises! Thanks Used Pennzoil 10w40 with k&n-401 filter. Had to order the filter from my auto parts store so I had them get me two to save some time down the road. My used oil had one really tiny pebble shaped metal piece and lots of little shavings (can't see them unless you move it around a lot). Didn't change the crush washer as my local mechanic advised me it's not necessary to replace every oil change unless the drain plug was previously overtightened. And he also told me that what he meant by overtightened is like taking a hammer to the socket wrench. So I think it'll be ok. Last futzed with by LazyMaxy; July 29th, 2011 at 09:17 AM. Reason: add info

August 3rd, 2011, 10:17 AM	#409
Pete22x ninjette.org member Name: Pete Location: WV Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): '09 SE GREEN 250 Posts: 37	Thanks for that write up. As soon as it stops raining I'm gonna attempt changing my own oil! I am not so mechanically inclined as I wish I were. __________________________________________________ 7.24.11 - 09' Ninja 250R in SE Green. 1494 Miles. Currently, 1721 Miles

September 1st, 2011, 01:43 PM	#413
YORCHI n00b Name: Jorge Location: Perris, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 581	I have a dumb question to ask that I didn't see asked or answered in this thread... So I got everything ready to do the bikes first oil change at 250 miles today but I was wondering something about checking the oil itself. Is it fine to check the oil in the mornings after the bike has been sitting all night so the oil can collect all the way at the bottom. I noticed that mine seems to be right at or slightly under the low mark on the sight glass. So is it fine to check in the morning or should it always be checked after the bike has been warmed up? __________________________________________________ Facebook YouTube #KCCO

September 1st, 2011, 02:22 PM	#415
YORCHI n00b Name: Jorge Location: Perris, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 581	Okay so my oil is low then...good thing I'm doing an oil change today __________________________________________________ Facebook YouTube #KCCO

August 1st, 2011, 12:10 PM	#405
Honko ninjette.org sage Name: Hyon Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Green SE Posts: 574	Is there any significant difference between "high-mileage" oils and normal oils that I should be worried about. I did my recent oil change with this: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ge_10W-40.aspx because it was the only synthetic 10W-40 I could find at the wal-mart I went to. It's fully synthetic (not a mix) and it isn't energy-conserving so I figured it was okay, but I just want to make sure. Probably should have asked a while ago

August 3rd, 2011, 11:31 AM	#410
Honko ninjette.org sage Name: Hyon Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Green SE Posts: 574	I have never been much of a gear head (I've never even changed the oil in my car), but this was still incredibly easy. Good luck! Be prepared to give the bolt on the filter some muscle, it was a pita for me to get mine off.

August 26th, 2011, 02:07 PM	#411
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	Adding pics for reference:

August 26th, 2011, 02:59 PM	#412
setasai ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Brian Location: Detroit, MI Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Green Posts: A lot.	Just wanted to say thanks for the clearly annotated photos.

September 1st, 2011, 01:46 PM	#414
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	You can do it with the oil hot or cold. You do have to wait a few minutes for the oil to settle if you're just turning off the ignition.

September 1st, 2011, 09:24 PM	#416
YORCHI n00b Name: Jorge Location: Perris, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 581	It was pretty easy changing the oil, but I wasn't expecting a challenge since it couldn't be harder than changing it on a regular car where you need a jack, jack stands, and then to crawl on ur back and stuff... Anyways, I filled it up using one entire quart, and then slightly under the 1/4 mark on the second bottle. I turned the bike on and let it run for several minutes while I cleaned up everything and then lowered the bike off the stand. Called the wifey over to help me check the sight glass while I held it level and she said the oil was just below the top line which is good for me. After that we went on a nice ride to make sure everything was good and now the bike is parked and sleeping comfortably. Tomorrow morning I'll do another check on the oil level to make sure I didn't over fill it. Thanks to everyone that posted advice or information here. It was very helpful! __________________________________________________ Facebook YouTube #KCCO

September 2nd, 2011, 12:37 PM	#417
YORCHI n00b Name: Jorge Location: Perris, CA Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 581	so going slightly below the 1/4 mark on a quart of oil is too much oil I had to drain some out of the drain plug this morning...hopefully I didn't damage anything on my 25 mile ride yesterday with too much oil in the bike Now the level is sitting steadily between both marks __________________________________________________ Facebook YouTube #KCCO

September 2nd, 2011, 01:10 PM	#418
eds2fitty ninjette.org member Name: Ed Location: Bay Area Cali Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 250R SE Posts: 63	Quick question: does the k&n filter come with the rubber o-rings or are those purchased separately?

September 2nd, 2011, 01:48 PM	#419
Cuongism ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Cuong Location: San Diego Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.	k&n 401 comes with the o-rings

September 15th, 2011, 01:20 PM	#420
areion457 ninjette.org member Name: Diego Location: New York Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Black 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 12	Thanks for the images Cuongism! Although, the original post from KKIM has 30+ images. Any chance that you have a copy of those that I could get? I'm looking to make a little manual for myself and it's tough when all that shows up now are little blocks. Thanks!

October 14th, 2011, 05:28 AM	#421
koenigcitizen Russian Ninja :) Name: Andrei Location: Ocean City, MD Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Triumph Street Triple R, 2009 Yamaha FZ6, 2010 Kawi 250r (sold) Posts: 335	The links to the pictures in DYI are broken. Anyway to get those fixed? That would be awesome! I will be attempting my first oil change soon __________________________________________________ 2009 Fazer (2009 Yamaha FZ6), 2012 Triumph Street Triple R

October 14th, 2011, 10:34 AM	#424
koenigcitizen Russian Ninja :) Name: Andrei Location: Ocean City, MD Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Triumph Street Triple R, 2009 Yamaha FZ6, 2010 Kawi 250r (sold) Posts: 335	dubojr1, areion457, Thank you so much! This helps a lot! __________________________________________________ 2009 Fazer (2009 Yamaha FZ6), 2012 Triumph Street Triple R

October 14th, 2011, 11:35 AM	#427
dubojr1 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jason Location: Jacksonville, Florida Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE, 07 Honda CRF230F, 06 Honda CRF150F Posts: A lot.	I'm sure he will. Prepare those pics.... we're gonna fix this DIY!!! Thanks in advance for your help! __________________________________________________ 09 250R SE: Paying it forward one post at a time! Don't forget to add yourself to our Member Map

October 15th, 2011, 12:48 PM	#430
C L ninjette.org member Name: Andrew Location: Orlando, FL Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2014 300 Posts: 162	I've got a question about the crush washers. Is it supposed to look like this? I went to the Nissan dealer to get part #11026-01M02 because the wiki said it was the equivalent for our 250r's. At the dealer the parts guy gave me part # 11026-JA00A saying it was the exact same item. Looks like this:

October 15th, 2011, 04:38 PM	#431
rz3r0 ninjette.org member Name: Rick Location: Hawaii Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 Kawasaki Ninja 250R(Sold), 11 Honda Ruckus, 12 Ducati Monster 696 ABS Posts: 145	I did not see a crush washer when I oil changed... and I never put a crush washer in there. Is my bike okay? I already ran like 200 miles after the oil change, no problems so far though.

October 15th, 2011, 05:11 PM	#433
rz3r0 ninjette.org member Name: Rick Location: Hawaii Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 Kawasaki Ninja 250R(Sold), 11 Honda Ruckus, 12 Ducati Monster 696 ABS Posts: 145	Torqued it by feel, no leaks, and I pickued up some washers for next time. So I hope I'll be fine.

October 15th, 2011, 06:14 PM	#434
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	OK - thanks all, the initial pics have been reloaded into post 1 and 2 of this thread. If folks suggest that there are even better pics to replace 'em with (I like some of Cuong's), I'm up for that as well, just let me know. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

October 17th, 2011, 10:17 AM	#437
dubojr1 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jason Location: Jacksonville, Florida Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE, 07 Honda CRF230F, 06 Honda CRF150F Posts: A lot.	Here's a picture of a used one but you get the idea... __________________________________________________ 09 250R SE: Paying it forward one post at a time! Don't forget to add yourself to our Member Map

March 7th, 2012, 06:08 PM	#438
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	I just wanted to point out that the DIY itself did not mention replacing the crush washer. He only mentioned it sticking to the engine. If Alex could edit that in there, that would be great. Anyway: I lied. That isn't all I wanted to point out. I wanted to say that I had the opposite problem with my crush washer: I couldn't get it off the drain bolt! It would spin when all the way on but would immediately cross-thread when trying to take it off (no way to stay perfectly perpendicular). I just had to clamp it in some vice grips and thread it out, hoping that I don't damage the drain bolt threads. The other concern is that the replacement that I got from a dealer has a much smaller outer diameter, so I wouldn't be able to get it in the vice grips again if it happened again. I went to the dealer with a list of compatible oil filters and the first they had in stock was one of the Honda ones. The big O-ring was very different than the one with my K&N filter that I was replacing. The K&N filter's O-ring was flat on one side and the Honda one was perfectly round. It was also frustratingly large. I remember being a little annoyed when trying to fit the K&N one in last year but this one was crazy. I would carefully push in two opposite sides with an equal amount of slack between them and then turn 90-degrees and do it again and then turn 45-degrees and do it again then 90-degrees again but the slack would always pop out somewhere and leave me chasing the lump all the way around. Eventually, I got it to stay down all around but I have no idea if it stayed during/after installation. I can say one thing for certain: I will not be buying the Honda filter again! I think I'll go with Wix next time because I know they are American-made.

March 7th, 2012, 09:03 PM	#439
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Where should I or could I edit? I'm happy to do it, just tell me what post where you think it makes sense. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

April 21st, 2012, 08:27 PM	#440
Mr.E That rider dude. Name: Eric Location: Orlando, Fl. Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 White Ninja 250 SE. Posts: A lot.	So I Changed my oil. First, it came out too over filled. Now, the oil drain plug won't screw in. it tightens, then last second loosens. Is it the screw, or the case? Do I have to take it to kawasaki?? Ugh. Bad day. Help please. EDIT As I was doing this, and trying to figure out why it wouldn't screw, I did notice some metal shavings on my hand. What could this mean? Thanks. __________________________________________________ Mods: flushmount Led front binkers, diode mod, pazzo levers, clear tank pad, racing replica grips, bike monkeys integrated tal light, zx-2r vinyls, rearsets, red bar ends, and more red accented stuff.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Is it normal for oil to increase a bit in the crankcase after an oil change?	cadd	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	10	May 15th, 2014 08:38 PM
Synthetic oil at 300 mile oil change?	anacron	2013 - 2017 Ninja 300 Tech Talk	14	July 29th, 2013 04:58 PM
Not a DIY OIL Change just a view and some info	Surferboy120	2013 - 2017 Ninja 300 Tech Talk	4	October 8th, 2012 11:44 PM
Oil drain plug gasket for oil change.	tsdexter	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	8	July 10th, 2012 01:00 PM
change oil filter, without draining oil?	peter330	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	5	May 30th, 2010 01:08 PM