DIY - Adjusting the rear shock preload

noche_caliente · January 15th, 2009, 08:54 PM

Ok, so here is my first attempt at a small DIY.

Adjusting the preload isn't a really big deal, but if you've never worked on a bike before, it can be a little bit daunting! Since I was going to do it anyway, I figured I would take pictures and post it up here.

After having the chance to ride another forum member's bike, I realized just how mushy mine felt. Knowing that he'd adjusted his, I decided to give it a try with mine, and I like it much better now! The suspension is stiffer, and it's not as much the feeling that I'm turning in pudding or something...

So, to adjust your rear shock preload:

1. You need this thing out of your tool kit that came with the bike:

2. I reached in from the right side, preferring to avoid removing the chain guard and the grease on the chain if at all possible... I placed the spanner as far around as I could, and pulled:

it takes a little effort, so I used both hands:

3. And now it's on the second notch

That's all there is to it - rather simple really!

Alex · January 15th, 2009, 08:59 PM

Is it preferable to leave on or to remove expensive jewelry before trying to break the lock collar loose?

kkim · January 15th, 2009, 09:05 PM

hey, thanks... there have been many that have asked about how to do this... pictures help.

I would add...

1. wear gloves... it's very easy to slip off the adjuster when trying to move the ring and slipping can cause nice bobos to your hands.

2. when pulling on the adjuster wrench, keep it as flat in the grooves of the adjuster ring as possible so all the force is in line with the adjuster. If you are at an angle to the adjuster, the wrench will slip off easier.

3. when you adjust it for the first time, it is really difficult to get it moving. Once you get it to move, it seems to adjust easier for the other positions. It's like it's "stuck" the first time you try to move it.

kazam58 · January 15th, 2009, 09:09 PM

First attempt at a DIY and all Alex can do is point out what's wrong...

All joking aside, thanks for the pics. I hadn't considered doing this as the bike is plenty stiff with me on it (hooray for being tiny), but it's nice to see the pics.
EDIT: kkim beat me to posting, and so kindly followed Alex's footsteps, lol

Alex · January 15th, 2009, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazam58

First attempt at a DIY and all Alex can do is point out what's wrong...

Au contraire!

I was just posting up what made me smile.

Big props to noche_caliente for posting up a DIY!

noche_caliente · January 15th, 2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

Is it preferable to leave on or to remove expensive jewelry before trying to break the lock collar loose?

Ah, so you know about the 4 C's do you? I NEVER take them off. They insured if anything happens to them, as am I....
You're just jealous that your hands aren't this pretty

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

hey, thanks... there have been many that have asked about how to do this... pictures help.

I would add...

1. wear gloves... it's very easy to slip off the adjuster when trying to move the ring and slipping can cause nice bobos to your hands.
...
3. when pulling on the adjuster wrench, keep it as flat in the grooves of the adjuster ring as possible so all the force is in line with the adjuster. If you are at an angle to the adjuster, the wrench will slip off easier.

Yes, it does slip if it's not flat, and yes, it does hurt when that happens. In the words of the great Kkim, 'ask me how I know'!

kkim · January 15th, 2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noche_caliente

Yes, it does slip if it's not flat, and yes, it does hurt when that happens.

lol... How do you think I know to advise wearing gloves? It freakin' hurts when it slips!!

noche_caliente · January 15th, 2009, 09:28 PM

I still have a pretty little bruise on the back of my hand from it. It will heal - no biggie!

Oh, speaking of healing - the knee got a clean bill of health (as clean as it gets anyway) - when going in for my injections today!

kkim · January 15th, 2009, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noche_caliente

Oh, speaking of healing - the knee got a clean bill of health (as clean as it gets anyway)

so, what does that mean?

noche_caliente · January 15th, 2009, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

so, what does that mean?

all the damage from the summer is as healed as it's going to get, and I don't seem to have shortened the life expectancy of them prior to the replacements by too much... only 16 more years to go...

Guinss · January 15th, 2009, 11:44 PM

great diy. will help many 250R-owners.

Didnt remove the chain guard. I didnt wear gloves, and it didnt slip either

You just have to make sure the key is properly in place before you pull, or i guess it can go wrong.

Mine was at the second notch, stock. Have adjusted it to 3, even though im in the very bottom of the weight-range for notch two. Second notch was just too soft really.

zartan · January 16th, 2009, 12:01 AM

That tool was created directly from hell.by the devil.. that is all I have to say about when I adjusted mine. hell hell hell. Demon spawn.. Ok not helpful but it had to be said.

Thanks for the DYI !!! noche_caliente

um... Alex, How do you think we get MORE expensive jewerly!! duh

Sound Wave · January 16th, 2009, 12:46 AM

noche_caliente thanks for posting the pics. next time i will try your way and not remove the chain guard.

about the gloves thing... when i was doing it, i didn't have my gloves on and it didn't seem the wrench was on all too securely. i was thinking, "please don't slip, please don't slip."

kkim, thanks for the info about it only turning in one direction. i was wondering about that. i currently have mine set to #3 and it feels a bit too stiff. gonna try #2 out.

one more thing.... does anybody know what weight each setting is? i think i remember the first one was 150#.

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 12:53 AM

Gary,

I don't think there is a weight chart for specific adjuster settings. You just need to adjust it and see how it feels for you and the type of riding you do. Use what feels best. I cranked mine up one notch at a time until I felt it was too harsh, then went back down to the setting before that.

I was running the middle setting with the stock tires, but since I switched to a bit taller rear tire, I backed the adjuster back one notch to the the second softest setting (#2) w/ #1 being the softest.

Experiment to find what is the best for you and be thankful we at least have a degree of adjustability with these bikes. The previous gen bikes don't have an adjustment feature on the rear shock.

Viper-Byte · January 16th, 2009, 01:02 AM

I just adjusted mine to the middle setting (2nd softest is too soft) and I had just oiled the chain with the chain guard removed, but I put it back on before changing the rear shock

I find it easier on the left of the bike above the chain, that way you can push on the tool. luckily it has not slipped off on me as yet.

Guinss · January 16th, 2009, 02:08 AM

There is a table in the owners manual with weight and settings. But ofcourse, adjust it to what works best.

I wonder, is it easier to do a wheelie with the rear shock adjusted to 3, 4 or 5? 2 is stock.

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guinss

There is a table in the owners manual with weight and settings. But ofcourse, adjust it to what works is best.

If there is, I stand corrected. Thank you for that clarification.

edit- I just checked my owners manual and there is no such table in our manuals. Must be a difference between the euro and US owner's manuals? Plus, our stock shock setting is set to the lowest of the 5 settings, what they label as the #1 setting which is supposed to be for a 150lb rider. They just tell you the spring gets stiffer the higher the number with no other weight references.

g21-30 · January 16th, 2009, 05:39 AM

I adjusted mine prior to this DIY. Since I'm 195 lbs, the preload is now set in the 3rd slot. Noche..still thanks for the DIY. You should consider taking the rings off, especially when working around the battery. A battery short via jewelry is very painful...HOT

Guinss · January 16th, 2009, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

If there is, I stand corrected. Thank you for that clarification.

edit- I just checked my owners manual and there is no such table in our manuals. Must be a difference between the euro and US owner's manuals? Plus, our stock shock setting is set to the lowest of the 5 settings, what they label as the #1 setting which is supposed to be for a 150lb rider. They just tell you the spring gets stiffer the higher the number with no other weight references.

I remembered wrong sorry. Theres only a table showing that the shock gets stronger when increasing the number( 1--> 2,3,4 or 5). I guess its the same table that you talk about. The one with an arrow pointing from No.1 towards No. 5.

So it has no weight references, but it does say this: "The standard setting position for an average-build rider of 68kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accesories is No. 2."

I hit a hole in the road last summer, and the "fender" or whatever its called, got pushed in a little by the tire. The tire fell into the hole, the bike came after, but when it did the tire was on its way up again, as i had passed the hole, and somehow they actually the tire smashed into the fender. I can see a little print (2-3inches deep) in the black fender, if I stick my head up there. I was going like 45mph. Therefore i got it up from 2 to 3, and i also think its a little soft for my driving. So can wait to test No.3 on the road. Im about 145 lb by the way.

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 10:39 AM

What position on the adjuster does it come from the dealers when you purchase it? Ours come set in the softest position. (#1)

Guinss · January 16th, 2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

What position on the adjuster does it come from the dealers when you purchase it? Ours come set in the softest position. (#1)

No.2

as it says in the manual, thats the standard position. looks like you got it all wrong in US, because No.2 is for 150lbs

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 11:00 AM

Maybe they just put in a lighter spring for the euro bike? Big Macs take their toll after a few years, so they may have had to compensate for the US riders!

Guinss · January 16th, 2009, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

Maybe they just put in a lighter spring for the euro bike? Big Macs take their toll after a few years, so they may have had to compensate for the US riders!

hehehe

Sailariel · January 16th, 2009, 01:31 PM

Kelly, Mine came set at 2 and I changed it to 3. I`ll see what it feels like when the snow and ice goes away. This morning, it was 26 degrees below zero--coldest day so far. Incidentally, I tamed the shock spanner down by fabricating a handle from a hose. The hose is glued in place with J B Weld Epoxy. I agree that gloves are a good idea.

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 01:41 PM

Alex,

IIRC, wasn't yours a used bike when you purchased it?

HKr1 · January 16th, 2009, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guinss

No.2

as it says in the manual, thats the standard position. looks like you got it all wrong in US, because No.2 is for 150lbs

We(USA) probably got a heavier spring

Guinss · January 16th, 2009, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKr1

We(USA) probably got a heavier spring

i guess so

, my table in the manual doesnt look like yours either.

what does this mean?
road = bad, and speed = high

Dan Kyle · January 16th, 2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKr1

We(USA) probably got a heavier spring

The spring on the 2009 USA bike I have here is about 90 Nmm.

I had to go to a 80Nmm spring for a 180 Lb rider to get the correct Rider sag (30MM) with a reasonable amount of spring preload.

I would say a 90 NMM would be OK with a 210 to 230 LB rider

On the spring chart below Green is the stock spring and Red is the spring that comes on the New Ohlins Ninja 250R shock (KA840)

http://www.rogueracing.org/dk/KA840.jpg

By the way same with the fork spring waaaay too stiff for a 180 Lb rider.

HKr1 · January 16th, 2009, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Kyle

I had to go to a 80Nmm spring for a 180 Lb rider to get the correct Rider sag (30MM) with a reasonable amount of spring preload.
I would say a 90 NMM would be OK with a 210 to 230 LB rider

By the way same with the fork spring waaaay too stiff for a 180 Lb rider.

Thats good info. Was gonna bring up the sag thing(the whole point of the pre-poad adjuster), the manual doesnt even mention it...... guess it's too much for the beginner bike

I think the front is way to soft, if this was my bike(not the wifes)..... I would have already changed the front spring out. Maybe the spring is OK, just needs better damping?

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 04:16 PM

thicker fork oil?

Dan Kyle · January 16th, 2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HKr1

Thats good info. Was gonna bring up the sag thing(the whole point of the pre-poad adjuster), the manual doesnt even mention it...... guess it's too much for the beginner bike

I think the front is way to soft, if this was my bike(not the wifes)..... I would have already changed the front spring out. Maybe the spring is OK, just needs better damping?

Why do you think it is too soft??

Have you checked sag??

I will give you my answer first why it is not.

I would guess you think it is too soft because it dives Waaaaay to much under braking.
Diving should not be only controled by spring rate, the oil level and more important damping should take care of it.
In the stock fork it does not.
The problem with controling it with the spring, is when you are not using the brakes a stiff spring will ride like a dump truck because the springs are too stiff.

grandmaster · January 16th, 2009, 08:44 PM

Adjusted mine today. much better, thanks.

Sound Wave · January 16th, 2009, 11:39 PM

ok, i was trying to change my setting from #3 to #2. so, i was going all the way around from 3, 4, 5, 1, 2. anyways, i can't get it to go from #5 to #1. there is too much spring tension now. i was wearing my mechanic glove and the wrench slipped. i still cut and bruised my finger. there has to be a better tool!

anyways, so i am stuck on setting #5 now. would it be easier if i got someone to sit on the seat while i did it? or would that just make it more difficult to turn? thanks in advance.

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 11:44 PM

I would think having someone sit on the seat would make it even more difficult. Do you have a rear stand to lift the bike off the ground from the swingarm?

Sound Wave · January 16th, 2009, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

I would think having someone sit on the seat would make it even more difficult. Do you have a rear stand to lift the bike off the ground from the swingarm?

no. but i was meaning to get one. maybe now would be a good time, huh?

kkim · January 16th, 2009, 11:56 PM

It would help, by taking as much load off the shock when you are adjusting it, but I've adjusted the shock w/o it on the rear stand before.

Do you have someone to help you? You can have them pivot the bike up as much as possible w/o lifting the rear wheel by using the sidestand as the pivot point. Have them push the handlebars forward and to the left while holding the front brake lever. The rear of the bike will get lighter and perhaps that would help with the rear shock.

Also, you can try spraying some wd-40 between the shock body and adjustment collar and see if that helps the collar to slide easier.

Concentrate on keeping the wrench completely square to the adjustment teeth on the adjuster. Don't give up... it is possible to go from 5 to 1.

Sound Wave · January 17th, 2009, 12:10 AM

thanks i will get a friend to help me tomorrow. i will try those ideas.

kkim · January 17th, 2009, 12:11 AM

good luck!

Dan Kyle · January 17th, 2009, 08:23 AM

You were at 3, why not just go to 2??

Even now it is EASIER to reduce prelaod then adding more. go from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2.

If you have weight on the bike it is compressing the shock spring making it harder to add or reduce preload.

Sound Wave · January 17th, 2009, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Kyle

You were at 3, why not just go to 2??

Even now it is EASIER to reduce prelaod then adding more. go from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2.

If you have weight on the bike it is compressing the shock spring making it harder to add or reduce preload.

well, kkim mentioned that you can only turn it in one direction so i didn't even attempt to turn it back from 3 directly to 2.

so you are sure it can turn in both directions? not doubting you.... just confused now. thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

....
2. the adjuster can only move in one direction, from softer to harder, so if you need to back a notch, you will need to go through all of the adjustment settings to get back to the softest.

....

January 16th, 2009, 12:01 AM	#12
zartan ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: zartan Location: spam la Join Date: Oct 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250 R Posts: A lot.	That tool was created directly from hell.by the devil.. that is all I have to say about when I adjusted mine. hell hell hell. Demon spawn.. Ok not helpful but it had to be said. Thanks for the DYI !!! noche_caliente um... Alex, How do you think we get MORE expensive jewerly!! duh __________________________________________________ "Don't let adverse facts stand in the way of a good decision" Colin Powell

January 16th, 2009, 12:46 AM	#13
Sound Wave Ramen Rider Name: Gary Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.	noche_caliente thanks for posting the pics. next time i will try your way and not remove the chain guard. about the gloves thing... when i was doing it, i didn't have my gloves on and it didn't seem the wrench was on all too securely. i was thinking, "please don't slip, please don't slip." kkim, thanks for the info about it only turning in one direction. i was wondering about that. i currently have mine set to #3 and it feels a bit too stiff. gonna try #2 out. one more thing.... does anybody know what weight each setting is? i think i remember the first one was 150#. Last futzed with by Sound Wave; January 16th, 2009 at 12:47 AM. Reason: changing names to screen names

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
DIY - GSX-R Rear Shock	ForceofWill	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	79	December 10th, 2022 05:17 PM
DIY preload adjuster	alex.s	General Motorcycling Discussion	69	May 14th, 2020 05:57 AM
DIY: Adjusting rear pre-load on 2013+ Ninja 300	Alex	2013 - 2017 Ninja 300 Tech Talk	34	July 26th, 2015 10:04 PM
Rear shock Preload for 2up?	Ninja Chris	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	5	August 10th, 2014 08:35 PM
Rear Shock Preload 2up	oblivion007	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	4	December 7th, 2011 05:01 AM

January 15th, 2009, 08:59 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Is it preferable to leave on or to remove expensive jewelry before trying to break the lock collar loose? __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

January 15th, 2009, 09:05 PM	#3
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	hey, thanks... there have been many that have asked about how to do this... pictures help. I would add... 1. wear gloves... it's very easy to slip off the adjuster when trying to move the ring and slipping can cause nice bobos to your hands. 2. when pulling on the adjuster wrench, keep it as flat in the grooves of the adjuster ring as possible so all the force is in line with the adjuster. If you are at an angle to the adjuster, the wrench will slip off easier. 3. when you adjust it for the first time, it is really difficult to get it moving. Once you get it to move, it seems to adjust easier for the other positions. It's like it's "stuck" the first time you try to move it. Last futzed with by kkim; January 17th, 2009 at 05:40 PM. Reason: edited out some bad advice :)

January 15th, 2009, 09:09 PM	#4
kazam58 Sarcasm: Yea that'll work Name: Andy Location: Essex Jct, VT Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250R Posts: 330	First attempt at a DIY and all Alex can do is point out what's wrong... All joking aside, thanks for the pics. I hadn't considered doing this as the bike is plenty stiff with me on it (hooray for being tiny), but it's nice to see the pics. EDIT: kkim beat me to posting, and so kindly followed Alex's footsteps, lol

January 15th, 2009, 09:28 PM	#8
noche_caliente ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Kim Location: mundo de ensueño Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.	I still have a pretty little bruise on the back of my hand from it. It will heal - no biggie! Oh, speaking of healing - the knee got a clean bill of health (as clean as it gets anyway) - when going in for my injections today!

January 15th, 2009, 11:44 PM	#11
Guinss ninjette.org guru Name: Simen Location: Norway Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R (Black) Posts: 298	great diy. will help many 250R-owners. Didnt remove the chain guard. I didnt wear gloves, and it didnt slip either You just have to make sure the key is properly in place before you pull, or i guess it can go wrong. Mine was at the second notch, stock. Have adjusted it to 3, even though im in the very bottom of the weight-range for notch two. Second notch was just too soft really.

January 16th, 2009, 12:53 AM	#14
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Gary, I don't think there is a weight chart for specific adjuster settings. You just need to adjust it and see how it feels for you and the type of riding you do. Use what feels best. I cranked mine up one notch at a time until I felt it was too harsh, then went back down to the setting before that. I was running the middle setting with the stock tires, but since I switched to a bit taller rear tire, I backed the adjuster back one notch to the the second softest setting (#2) w/ #1 being the softest. Experiment to find what is the best for you and be thankful we at least have a degree of adjustability with these bikes. The previous gen bikes don't have an adjustment feature on the rear shock.

January 16th, 2009, 01:02 AM	#15
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	I just adjusted mine to the middle setting (2nd softest is too soft) and I had just oiled the chain with the chain guard removed, but I put it back on before changing the rear shock I find it easier on the left of the bike above the chain, that way you can push on the tool. luckily it has not slipped off on me as yet.

January 16th, 2009, 02:08 AM	#16
Guinss ninjette.org guru Name: Simen Location: Norway Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R (Black) Posts: 298	There is a table in the owners manual with weight and settings. But ofcourse, adjust it to what works best. I wonder, is it easier to do a wheelie with the rear shock adjusted to 3, 4 or 5? 2 is stock.

January 16th, 2009, 05:39 AM	#18
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	I adjusted mine prior to this DIY. Since I'm 195 lbs, the preload is now set in the 3rd slot. Noche..still thanks for the DIY. You should consider taking the rings off, especially when working around the battery. A battery short via jewelry is very painful...HOT

January 16th, 2009, 10:39 AM	#20
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	What position on the adjuster does it come from the dealers when you purchase it? Ours come set in the softest position. (#1)

January 16th, 2009, 11:00 AM	#22
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Maybe they just put in a lighter spring for the euro bike? Big Macs take their toll after a few years, so they may have had to compensate for the US riders!

January 16th, 2009, 01:31 PM	#24
Sailariel ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Alex Location: Belfast, ME Join Date: Jul 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Honda NT-700-V, formerly, Green 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.	Kelly, Mine came set at 2 and I changed it to 3. I`ll see what it feels like when the snow and ice goes away. This morning, it was 26 degrees below zero--coldest day so far. Incidentally, I tamed the shock spanner down by fabricating a handle from a hose. The hose is glued in place with J B Weld Epoxy. I agree that gloves are a good idea.

January 16th, 2009, 01:41 PM	#25
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Alex, IIRC, wasn't yours a used bike when you purchased it?

January 16th, 2009, 04:16 PM	#30
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	thicker fork oil?

January 16th, 2009, 08:44 PM	#32
grandmaster ninjette.org member Name: Levi Location: St. George, Utah Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R, CR125R Posts: 191	Adjusted mine today. much better, thanks.

January 16th, 2009, 11:39 PM	#33
Sound Wave Ramen Rider Name: Gary Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.	ok, i was trying to change my setting from #3 to #2. so, i was going all the way around from 3, 4, 5, 1, 2. anyways, i can't get it to go from #5 to #1. there is too much spring tension now. i was wearing my mechanic glove and the wrench slipped. i still cut and bruised my finger. there has to be a better tool! anyways, so i am stuck on setting #5 now. would it be easier if i got someone to sit on the seat while i did it? or would that just make it more difficult to turn? thanks in advance.

January 16th, 2009, 11:44 PM	#34
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I would think having someone sit on the seat would make it even more difficult. Do you have a rear stand to lift the bike off the ground from the swingarm?

January 16th, 2009, 11:56 PM	#36
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	It would help, by taking as much load off the shock when you are adjusting it, but I've adjusted the shock w/o it on the rear stand before. Do you have someone to help you? You can have them pivot the bike up as much as possible w/o lifting the rear wheel by using the sidestand as the pivot point. Have them push the handlebars forward and to the left while holding the front brake lever. The rear of the bike will get lighter and perhaps that would help with the rear shock. Also, you can try spraying some wd-40 between the shock body and adjustment collar and see if that helps the collar to slide easier. Concentrate on keeping the wrench completely square to the adjustment teeth on the adjuster. Don't give up... it is possible to go from 5 to 1.

January 17th, 2009, 12:10 AM	#37
Sound Wave Ramen Rider Name: Gary Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.	thanks i will get a friend to help me tomorrow. i will try those ideas.

January 17th, 2009, 12:11 AM	#38
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	good luck!

January 17th, 2009, 08:23 AM	#39
Dan Kyle ninjette.org newbie Name: Dan Location: Sand City Calif Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 1098 848 ZX10R GSXR1000 Posts: 8	You were at 3, why not just go to 2?? Even now it is EASIER to reduce prelaod then adding more. go from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2. If you have weight on the bike it is compressing the shock spring making it harder to add or reduce preload.