Track stuff from Finland

[petrolhead]

Budget limitations mean I'm also the team's seamstress and electrician.

[petrolhead]

The two sets of warmers I have, were bought second hand. And they're not the most hitech to begin with.
When we get to trackside, putting them on is the first thing I do. Front goes on first and comes off last. I keep a blanket with aluminium foil on top of the front heater.
I'm not so much concerned with the surface temperature. More interested that the heating time is long enough. Rubber in itself is a heat insulator. Takes a long time for it to be hot on the inside too.

I realized that that philips head screw on the filler cap assembly is just an anti theft measure. Can't remove the assembly without out a key. I took the screw out. Now, should I ever forget the key, the bike is still operable.

[petrolhead]

Google maps link to the karting track we call our home circuit.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HdAGKoSMujQDJKbp7

Narrow, short, twisty. Great for training riding technique. 8 metres elevation change in a small space. Reasonable run off areas, low top speeds. So I can tell my son to just go for it.

My boy's favorite, Pesämäki circuit at Honkajoki, Finland.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ay6z9nsbgKfQeiLj8
Just perfect for a youngster with a 250. A lot faster than a karting track, half the size of a proper racing circuit. 400 metre main straight, 5th gear.

[DannoXYZ]

Oooh, very nice!!! Since track-day season is over for summer-break and racing won't start up again until Sept., I've been going to PKRA weekly - https://goo.gl/maps/3zSio5kgVa2FrMtG6

However, N250 is too big for this track, I'm stuck between 1 & 2nd-gear most of time. Looking for smaller lighter (100kg max) 65-100cc 2-stroke bike. Something like Kawi KX65/85 or Honda CR85R...

[petrolhead]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Oooh, very nice!!! Since track-day season is over for summer-break and racing won't start up again until Sept., I've been going to PKRA weekly - https://goo.gl/maps/3zSio5kgVa2FrMtG6

However, N250 is too big for this track, I'm stuck between 1 & 2nd-gear most of time. Looking for smaller lighter (100kg max) 65-100cc 2-stroke bike. Something like Kawi KX65/85 or Honda CR8R...

Closest possible gearing is the answer for karting tracks. Rev drop between 1-2 is massive. 2-3 is a lot better, noticeable everywhere.

We're currently at Pesämäki circuit. So far 3 seconds quicker than last year.
Edit: 4,7 sec improvement from last year. 3km/h higher top speed. On shorter straights almost 10 km/h faster. I'll compose a video at some point. Morning warm up plus 43 timed laps.

[petrolhead]

Link to original page on YouTube.

I could swear replacing the front warmer's power cord with a thick one with good connections made it heat up better.

I haven't got previous years' data available anymore, but jugding from videos the apex speeds were now higher and he opens the throttle earlier on exit.

[petrolhead]

Since I cant edit the opening post, here's a recap of the current specs:
- race fairings, DIY foam seat from a camping mattress
-Michelin Power Cup evos(110 & 140), Bstone R11s in storage
-13/48 sprockets (others in storage)
- ~0,5kg battery
-1,5kg DIY muffler v 2.0
-DIY rear sets
-tank grips
-some cheap clip ons with soft Renthal grips
-Front brake Brembo P30/34 caliper, stock disc
-Braking 16mm radial master cylinder
- ~8% quicker throttle
-about 140kg or bit less with couple liters of fuel. Nonessential wiring and most brackets deleted. Kickstand, its bracket and aux parts deleted.
-Stock suspension, bit thicker oil in forks.
-Rear wheel pushed as far forward as it can fit.
-Ignition lock deleted

[petrolhead]

I was familiarizing myself with stuff related to swapping the engine. The new motor came without clutchparts, stator etc.
Now the factory manual says the clutch outer basket needs to match the crank gear. Match color markings and choose the right part number accordingly. I'm guessing this has to do with tooth clearance between them. Does anyone have practical experience of this? I was going to swap the old clutch stuff to new engine. Thinking am I allright if I measure the tooth free play before and after and call it good if it's not very wrong.

[DannoXYZ]

yeah, should be OK.

[petrolhead]

The rider mentioned that the throttle travel feels long/difficult on certain spots of track. So..

14,90€ minus company discount, throttle tube with a set of cams/rings whatddoyacallem. I had previously used some 2 component plastic repair goo to get little more diameter. It was now 37mm, the new one is bit over 40mm. Not a big change but surely helps some. For some reason it took a lot of filing and sand paper to have smooth operation and return. Lot of my mods are like this. Get the cheapest solution and then spend half a day trying to make it fit and work.