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Old September 29th, 2012, 12:51 PM   #1
BearZ
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Cool eBay Levers install instructions and review

I installed Ebay Clutch and Brake levers today, they were just under $50 with expedited shipping, which is still cheaper than ASV, Speed Metal or any other store brand ones. The quality is indiscernible from other, more expensive levers. I took a bunch of photos after installing, unfortunately it's raining here today so I haven't taken it for a spin yet, but I'll post installation instructions and initial thoughts, then do a full length review once I have been on the street with them.

Tips and pointers before installing:
The clutch is a little bit harder, brake is super easy. I did the clutch first, then the brake, that is what I recommend, you decide which way you want to do it.
You'll need:
Aftermarket/replacement levers
10mm socket wrench
a flat head screwdriver (I'll explain why)
Half hour of your time
2 hands
elbow grease

Removing the stock Clutch lever.

Take your 10mm socket wrench and start loosening the Bolt. Remember: Lefty-loosey. There is a lock nut at the bottom, make sure it doesn't fall off when loosening the bolt. Once you get it started, you should be able to just use your hands to take it off.



Loosen the adjuster for the clutch cable, you should be able to use your hands to do it, if not, use an adjustable wrench/spanner to get it started.


Gently nudge the clutch out, this might take a little bit of wiggling around depending on how well it's sitting in there. This is what i looks like once you're taken the clutch lever out.


Take the clutch wire out of the stock clutch lever, just twist and slide out.

Get your aftermarket/replacement lever ready


Put the clutch wire into the new lever, slide in and twist.

Gently slide the new Lever back into position, put the adjuster back into position and screw it in about half way. Line up the holes of the lever. Insert the Bolt back in and begin to tighten until it starts showing up on the bottom end, twist on the lock nut and tighten it down. Note: There isn't enough room where the lock nut goes to put an adjustable wrench, so I wedged a flat head screw driver there to prevent the lock nut from turning while I tightened the bolt.


Test the clutch. If it's too loose, LOOSEN the clutch wire adjuster until the clutch feels taught, then tighten the adjuster ring.

Voila!


Removing Brake lever

Using the same 10mm socket wrench, loosen the bolt, taking care that the lock nut does not fall off.



Gently pull on the lever and it will come right off, there are no wires or cables to worry about here.


Get the Aftermarket/replacement lever ready, line up with the holes and put the nut and bolt back in- tighten.

And, Done!


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Old September 29th, 2012, 05:51 PM   #2
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
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Good instructional but the perch has to be replaced w/ another models' on the 1986-2007 models. What year is yours?
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Old September 29th, 2012, 07:55 PM   #3
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Thanks, but pics are way too big!
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Old September 29th, 2012, 07:57 PM   #4
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/moved to 2008-2012 farkles area
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Old September 29th, 2012, 08:11 PM   #5
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Thanks for moving! My bad. I wish the site had auto resize
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Old September 29th, 2012, 09:26 PM   #6
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we can just hit Ctrl+scroll down. Apart from that, great DIY!
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 05:24 PM   #7
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I've been searching around, but haven't come across the answer. What is the adjustable number dial on each lever for? You mentioned in order to adjust the clutch, to loosen/tighten the clutch wire adjuster.. so what are the dials for?
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 05:39 PM   #8
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I've been searching around, but haven't come across the answer. What is the adjustable number dial on each lever for? You mentioned in order to adjust the clutch, to loosen/tighten the clutch wire adjuster.. so what are the dials for?

No, they adjust the position of the levers for a shorter/longer reach. They do not affect the cable adjustment, they just move the lever closer to the handgrip.
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 06:38 PM   #9
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No, they adjust the position of the levers for a shorter/longer reach. They do not affect the cable adjustment, they just move the lever closer to the handgrip.
Awesome, thank you!
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 09:27 PM   #10
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Holy huge pictures batman! Open them in paint and zoom out, then save and upload again.
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 11:22 PM   #11
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Holy huge pictures batman! Open them in paint and zoom out, then save and upload again.
Haha, paint, that's cute. I'm a graphic designer, I know very well how to resize images, I was just hoping ninjette would have auto-resize... No such luck though.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 06:26 AM   #12
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I suggested paint because for resizing, it's so stupid-proof that anyone can use it; gotta remember that I don't know you past a username for the most part.

There was a thread in the forum information forum about auto-resizing pictures. I don't remember why it didn't get used, but I think it was something about not being compatible with the newer version of vbulletin or something like that.
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Old October 23rd, 2012, 08:28 PM   #13
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This forum auto-resizes attached images; it doesn't resize images that are linked to other sites. We might at some point, but there are impacts to doing so (on mobile devices, for animated pics, on older browsers, etc.)
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Old October 24th, 2012, 06:32 AM   #14
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good diy just like to add it may be wise to remove the clutch switch to prevent from damage
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Old October 24th, 2012, 07:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
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good diy just like to add it may be wise to remove the clutch switch to prevent from damage
Clutch switch?
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Old October 24th, 2012, 04:09 PM   #16
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the switch that prevents the bike starting in gear unless the clutch lever is pulled .

as seen on many threads here it can break easily when removing the clutch leaver.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 07:47 AM   #17
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the switch that prevents the bike starting in gear unless the clutch lever is pulled .

as seen on many threads here it can break easily when removing the clutch leaver.
I haven't had any issues with it myself.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 08:12 AM   #18
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I haven't had any issues with it myself.
If you don't watch the plastic pin when installing the levers it is VERY easy to break. The starter will keep working in neutral unless you completely disconnect the switch.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 08:55 AM   #19
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Yea, I was careful with the switch when I installed it. I read about it actually before I started working on it.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 01:46 AM   #20
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@BearZ do you have a link? I found a few different ones on ebay.
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Old November 13th, 2012, 09:22 AM   #21
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@BearZ do you have a link? I found a few different ones on ebay.
Here
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Old November 13th, 2012, 03:29 PM   #22
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Does anyone know if the green ones from ebay match the 2009 SE 250 or is it more of the new green?
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Old November 13th, 2012, 10:06 PM   #23
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Does anyone know if the green ones from ebay match the 2009 SE 250 or is it more of the new green?
Levers? They aren't painted so of course they won't match. Do they really need to?
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Old November 13th, 2012, 10:10 PM   #24
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I'd say it'll look a hell of a lot better if they did. I don't like when colors are a shade or two off from each other.
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Old November 13th, 2012, 10:21 PM   #25
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Does anyone know if the green ones from ebay match the 2009 SE 250 or is it more of the new green?
I've actually ordered 2 green sets from them for my 2010 SE and to answer your question...both sets were slightly different shades of green I bought a replacement set because when I went down on my bike it scratched one of them (It didn't break it, but I wanted it to look pristine again so I bought another set). The original set was a little darker, the newer set actually matched a little better.

here is a pic of the original set


...and here is a pic of the newer set on my bike
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Old November 13th, 2012, 10:47 PM   #26
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Thanks for the pics...I was thinking about getting the full green ones that's why I was wondering. I think it would be more obvious with the full lever green if it wasn't really close.
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Old November 14th, 2012, 07:43 AM   #27
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We've heard time and time again that they fade and fade fast. Also, the only way for them to match is if they are or look like they are painted. Anodized metals don't look painted and I doubt many would agree that they would look good if they did. They'd look like plastic!
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