Ninja 250r OEM Elec Connectors

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by edxmon

which connectors would I need to be able to install an integrated tail light AND keep my rear turn signals, in other words, I want to make a Y-splitter for the rear turn lights, which ones do I need? is the the first ones, mentioned in the original post?

Edxmon, for an integrated tail light, you just need to connect the new turn signal wires to the existing turn signal wires. Something like a vampire tap (Radioshack: Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connector) is your easiest solution.



Simply remove a tiny bit of the insulation, line up your exposed wire inside the vampire connector, and squeeze with pliers. Done! Wrap it in electric tape for added water resistance and you're good to go. Very sturdy.

Adding OEM connectors is unnecessary. If you really wanted to add a y-splitter you could create one with extra wire and spade connectors, but that's way more time-intensive.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by sleepless

- $20 minimum order quantity is a new policy. Think it used to be $16.
- Process? It's one guy putting 4 connectors in an envelope, printing a label, and dropping it off at the post office with the other 100 orders. Very little additional time.
- No profit? Let's say he makes only 10% on each connector.
Two male and one female 2 Position HB050 Connectors = $5.85
One 2 Position .110 Connector Set = $2.69
Subtotal = $8.54
Assuming 10% profit on each connector:
$8.54, Profit = $0.85
$20, Profit = $2.00

I would have paid $5 extra to not have to buy $20 of connectors. That would have been pure profit. $5.85 > $2.00. More money for both of us.


Seriously? The only reason to buy OEM connectors is to connect to existing OEM connectors. Otherwise, quick disconnects are readily available from any auto or electronics store for cents on the dollar - ($2.79 for a 10 pack, 1/4" Insulated Quick Disconnects)

I don't know why you're all up on this guy like white on rice. Yes, it's nice the company provides these OEM connectors, but next time I'll just go to a kawi dealership and buy one of the mechanics a beer.

Point is, a rude email response was unnecessary. $1.15 of profit is usually not worth the bad PR.

You're just not getting it. No one said he wasn't making a profit. I said that it wasn't worth his time. He said that too and made it clear before you contacted him and attempted to waste more of his time. You try "picking" from the parts staging areas, packing, filling out customs forms, making trips to the post office, communicating with customers via email, and working out exceptions for email customers all for a few dollars profit. If I invested $1 into my business and made $15 a month but spent 20 hours a week earning that $13 profit, then it isn't worth my time even if I can keep my monthly living expenses under $13! He wants VOLUME but, if he spends too much effort on the small orders, he'll never have the time he needs to serve that volume. The email response was exactly what I would expect when emailing someone about something they said not to email them about: He said in advance and in no uncertain terms specifically so that you would NOT email him about that and waste even more of his time, but you did it anyway. Heck, as far as we know, this is his primary income and he really can't afford to waste time like this.

And you are completely wrong about "the only reason" to buy them: most people do not want to splice or modify their existing wiring to connect AFTERMARKET devices. Therefore, you need enough to make Y-cables with male and female parts as well as making connectors on the aftermarket part. I have an integrated tail light and an undertail. This required connectors for the brake light, tag light, 2x rear turn signals in brake light, 2x rear turn signals in undertail, 2x Y-splitters (or 4x if I retained my stock signals or added stalk signals), LED flasher relay, and so on. If I added LEDs at the front, I'd need more for the signals and diode mod. That is a lot of connectors in order to avoid cutting any OEM wiring.

Originally Posted by sleepless

Edxmon, for an integrated tail light, you just need to connect the new turn signal wires to the existing turn signal wires. Something like a vampire tap (Radioshack: Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connector) is your easiest solution.



Simply remove a tiny bit of the insulation, line up your exposed wire inside the vampire connector, and squeeze with pliers. Done! Wrap it in electric tape for added water resistance and you're good to go. Very sturdy.

Adding OEM connectors is unnecessary. If you really wanted to add a y-splitter you could create one with extra wire and spade connectors, but that's way more time-intensive.

Actually, those are a kind of IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector), so they cut through the insulation with the same blade that contacts the conductor. There is no reason to remove any insulation with one of those tap splices.

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by edxmon

which connectors would I need to be able to install an integrated tail light AND keep my rear turn signals, in other words, I want to make a Y-splitter for the rear turn lights, which ones do I need? is the the first ones, mentioned in the original post?

For the Y-splitter for the turn signals, you'll need at least two pairs of mated 2P050-HB connectors (2 male, 2 femals). They come with the necessary pins, but I advise getting some extras unless you're really good a crimping; they're small and easy to mangle.

For the tail light itself, you may need the smaller side of the 3-position .110 connector. My integrated tail didn't need one, but that's all you should need if you do.

As an alternative to a Y-splitter on the flashers, if you're keeping the OEM stalks in place, you could try this. No cutting, crimping, splicing or soldering and completely removable. However, if you swap out the OEM hardware later, you'll need to change things around.

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by CZroe

You're just not getting it. No one said he wasn't making a profit. I said that it wasn't worth his time. He said that too and made it clear before you contacted him and attempted to waste more of his time.

Trying reading my last point again. Communication with buyers and potential buyers is inevitable and a normal part of a business, yes? Therefore, if we assume email correspondence is part of the job, it cost NO more time or effort to type a polite "No, I'm sorry but I cannot go any lower on minimum order price. Unfortunately I'm too busy as it is and have slim profit margins" versus "This email is a waste of time, lol buy more". Do you see MY point now?

Originally Posted by CZroe

You try "picking" from the parts staging areas ... If I invested $1 into my business and made $15 a month ... He wants VOLUME but, if he spends too much effort on the small orders ... The email response was exactly what I would expect

you are very passionate.

Originally Posted by CZroe

He said in advance and in no uncertain terms specifically so that you would NOT email him about that and waste even more of his time, but you did it anyway. Heck, as far as we know, this is his primary income and he really can't afford to waste time like this.

$20 minimum at the bottom of the page is "in no uncertain terms"? So you've never contacted a seller about a possible deal if certain concessions are made? You've gone totally white-knight at this point, do you have a vested interest or just fighting for the 'little guy'

Originally Posted by CZroe

And you are completely wrong about "the only reason" to buy them: ... I have an integrated tail light and an undertail. This required connectors for the brake light, tag light, 2x rear ... LED flasher relay, and so on ... That is a lot of connectors in order to avoid cutting any OEM wiring.

With a fender eliminator, integrated tail light, aftermarket license plate leds, led rear turn signals, front protons, and integrated mirror led turn signals.. I will have used 2 y-splitters (modmy250.com), 4 male connectors, and can reuse the original plate connectors as that light has since been chopped. The only "cutting" of the OEM wiring is two vampire connectors for the additional two rear turn signals over stock. I don't consider that irreversible as a nick in the insulation is easily covered by a 1/4" sliver of electrical tape. If you truly need everything ready to revert to stock in a split second, then by all means buy 10 or 20 connectors. To each his own . Personally, the cost does not justify it.

P.s. The only reason for more OEM connectors is to connect to OEM connectors, inherently this is true haha, cannot use one without the other. Additionally most quality aftermarkets (plug and play), i.e. integrated tails or led rear turn signals, re-use or provide oem connectors. So there's no reason to splurge on a whole bunch of additional connectors.

? LED flasher relay? don't be silly, that requires no additional connectors

Originally Posted by CZroe

Actually, those are a kind of IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector), so they cut through the insulation with the same blade that contacts the conductor. There is no reason to remove any insulation with one of those tap splices.

Yes, thank you smartypants I like to be extra sure of a good connection, so I do that part myself and then wrap everything up nice and secure.

This has been fun, but it seems we're getting nowhere. My offer stands of extra connectors to anyone else, but I'll keep my further opinions to myself. No reason to argue more.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by sleepless

Trying reading my last point again. Communication with buyers and potential buyers is inevitable and a normal part of a business, yes? Therefore, if we assume email correspondence is part of the job, it cost NO more time or effort to type a polite "No, I'm sorry but I cannot go any lower on minimum order price. Unfortunately I'm too busy as it is and have slim profit margins" versus "This email is a waste of time, lol buy more". Do you see MY point now?

Originally Posted by sleepless

you are very passionate.

I was once an order filler at a warehouse. "Order fillers" are dispatched to "pick" parts to assemble an order. The whole process typically involves many people.

Originally Posted by sleepless

$20 minimum at the bottom of the page is "in no uncertain terms"? So you've never contacted a seller about a possible deal if certain concessions are made? You've gone totally white-knight at this point, do you have a vested interest or just fighting for the 'little guy'

No interest. I just read many statements on his site about not having enough time for this, that, and minimum order exceptions. He's got a statement on there right now about many of his kits being unavailable because he doesn't have the time for those in particular (he makes them to order). I agree though: He should have a more permanent message in the FAQ or Shipping sections or a clickable info link on the $20 minimum order message. I do recall a message specifically stating not to contact him for exceptions to that, but he seems to have removed it. He probably thinks it's still there if he responded like that.

Originally Posted by sleepless

With a fender eliminator, integrated tail light, aftermarket license plate leds, led rear turn signals, front protons, and integrated mirror led turn signals.. I will have used 2 y-splitters (modmy250.com), 4 male connectors, and can reuse the original plate connectors as that light has since been chopped. The only "cutting" of the OEM wiring is two vampire connectors for the additional two rear turn signals over stock. I don't consider that irreversible as a nick in the insulation is easily covered by a 1/4" sliver of electrical tape. If you truly need everything ready to revert to stock in a split second, then by all means buy 10 or 20 connectors. To each his own . Personally, the cost does not justify it.

Even if you had no interest in preserving the stock wiring for warranty or resale purposes, it also helps you sell removed equipment like the tag light. If not preserving the wiring to and from OEM parts, I see no need for a complete Y-splitter at all. To preserve the internal wiring, you could have one OEM connectors per splitter and use your locally acquired connectors for the aftermarket parts on the other side.

Originally Posted by sleepless

P.s. The only reason for more OEM connectors is to connect to OEM connectors, inherently this is true haha, cannot use one without the other. Additionally most quality aftermarkets (plug and play), i.e. integrated tails or led rear turn signals, re-use or provide oem connectors. So there's no reason to splurge on a whole bunch of additional connectors.

My integrated tail light came with the brake light connector and two connector-less wires. Some don't even include that much. I have yet to find tag light bolts and such with OEM connectors. :P

Originally Posted by sleepless

? LED flasher relay? don't be silly, that requires no additional connectors

Mine did. It needed one extra connector for ground. I could have gotten a all-in-one three-pole connector intended for a headlight and an OEM Y-connector to plug the ground into the wiring harness, but I used my own spade terminal and ring terminal to ground to the frame.

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by Momaru

For the Y-splitter for the turn signals, you'll need at least two pairs of mated 2P050-HB connectors (2 male, 2 femals). They come with the necessary pins, but I advise getting some extras unless you're really good a crimping; they're small and easy to mangle.

For the tail light itself, you may need the smaller side of the 3-position .110 connector. My integrated tail didn't need one, but that's all you should need if you do.

As an alternative to a Y-splitter on the flashers, if you're keeping the OEM stalks in place, you could try this. No cutting, crimping, splicing or soldering and completely removable. However, if you swap out the OEM hardware later, you'll need to change things around.

Thanks Momaru, sleepless and Czroe for answering my questions.

I think I like Momaru's route, costs $0 dorra! I'll PM you when I get my LED tail in!

[skilletmo]

Anyone know a place were i can buy MTW .110" Connectors that isnt more then like $10! I mean cmon, there so small and worth like 3$ lol