October 22nd, 2010, 06:33 PM | #81 | |||||
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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I don't think anyone is doubting that there is something to be said for peg weighting and the end result of controlling lean. I am, however, weary of your [inaccurate] explanations. Quote:
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FWIW, the reason steering input would be required in your above example is because the front wheel will naturally turn when the bike is leaned. That was not the original point, but it was something I thought you should understand. I am not sure anyone here appreciates stubbornness, btw. |
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October 22nd, 2010, 06:41 PM | #82 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Oh, and here is one of those billions of links you mentioned. Though, this one happens to exactly refute what you have been arguing: that peg weighting changes the CG.
http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.c...center-gravity Quote:
Again, the most logical process by which weighting the outside peg picks the bike up is that by weighting the outside peg, you are in a sense allowing your body to "fall" more toward the left side of the bike, changing the CG and allowing the bike to stand more upright. |
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October 22nd, 2010, 07:05 PM | #83 |
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I just want to ride! All this thinking about what I am doing is too much work. LOL didn't think my thread would spark so much sprited discussion.
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October 22nd, 2010, 08:54 PM | #84 |
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Manos - continuing to call something simple and easy, and then proceeding to butcher the explanations with irrelevant and misleading examples, is becoming tiresome. When pressed, then extending it to implying that anyone who disagrees with your comments (including people with, you know, actual engineering degrees) is less experienced or isn't thinking clearly, isn't exactly calming the waters.
Weighting the pegs isn't witchcraft, and yes, it can have an effect. But you're greatly exaggerating the effects, and discounting the related activities that are causing the majority of the physical effects on the bike related to lean angle and cornering behavior. Bar input. Body position. Throttle control. Get those right, and you're 95% of the way there to smooth, fast, and safe cornering skills. Bake in optimal peg weighting at the end of that, and some time can be gained on track, and a rider with those skills can take advantage of an otherwise equally skilled rider who isn't able to take advantage of those (relatively small) effects.
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October 22nd, 2010, 11:56 PM | #85 |
Mr. 988
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Just remember to stick your knee out just a little bit
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October 23rd, 2010, 05:04 AM | #86 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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No, I've changed my position. If you're knee ain't draggin', you ain't ridin'.
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October 23rd, 2010, 05:12 AM | #87 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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And looking at that link I posted above, I didn't realize it was a whole discussion. It was just one of the first links I found that wasn't simply a message board with people simply asking of they should weight the pegs.
But, they are all agreeing the only way it works is when you allow your body to move independently of the bike, which is what I've been saying is the only logical mechanism by which peg weighting can work. It sounds like all it ultimately accomplishes is to allow the rider to move the bike independently of himself. If one is out of options of doing this with his thighs or arms** (pulling his weight to either side and therefore raising or lowering the bike during the turn), then the same thing could be accomplished with applying pressure to either foot peg. **I know you aren't supposed to do this, especially mid-corner, but I am just illustrating that it all just allows the rider to move the bike independently of himself. |
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October 23rd, 2010, 05:15 AM | #88 |
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Yeah, great job, troublemaker. lol!
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October 23rd, 2010, 02:15 PM | #89 |
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October 24th, 2010, 05:51 AM | #90 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
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Manos, im a little disappointed you didnt stick it out. I was hoping we could all learn something, but you just left us with "Im right and you're all stupid!" as you stomped your feet out :/ .
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October 24th, 2010, 10:04 AM | #91 |
Ninja chick
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Just let it rest! He spoke his mind, we spoke ours, so let's agree to disagree and not keep . Cheers! Go outside and ride!
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October 24th, 2010, 05:11 PM | #92 |
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James - sending aspirin your way. Ally - went out and rode!
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October 24th, 2010, 05:45 PM | #93 |
Professional belly dancer
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October 24th, 2010, 05:58 PM | #94 |
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all out of them, and box was too small anyway.
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October 24th, 2010, 06:50 PM | #95 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771
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Quote:
BTW, I've found I've been mostly putting my weight on the inside peg. I've been getting pretty far off the bike, being able to see my outside shoulder through the inside mirror while sliding a whole cheek off at the same time, so it would be pretty difficult to get much weight on that outside peg. |
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October 24th, 2010, 07:21 PM | #96 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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lots of inside peg weight here. article blamed the right side pipes as making it hard to keep a peg on the right peg during a left turn.
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October 24th, 2010, 08:01 PM | #97 |
Professional belly dancer
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J, what was the issue you wanted resolved? (I'm seriously asking, as I don't feel like reading the past responses...too many convoluted explanations and whatever).
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October 24th, 2010, 08:13 PM | #98 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Yeah, it seems like in some cases trying to keep enough weight on the outside foot to "weight" the peg would actually prevent the rider from getting off as far as he could otherwise. Of course, if one has enough traction to really lean the bike over, then there is not as much need to get as far off the bike (because the elbow would already rubbing heh). But, I definitely don't get anywhere near that traction from the tires, so for me trying to keep weight on the outside peg would prohibit the optimal body position for best manipulated traction.
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October 25th, 2010, 11:53 AM | #99 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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I have also been using my inside knee against the tank to help push my weight off the bike.
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October 25th, 2010, 01:50 PM | #100 | ||
ninjette.org sage
Name: Misti
Location: Vancouver, BC
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I don't have enough time to read every single post (my kid is due to wake up from his nap any minute now) but I scanned through and think I have the gist of the discussion. Here is my two cents. As mentioned here, you cannot steer the bike by weighting the pegs (this seems to be agreed upon). The main questions appears to be, how does peg weighting effect hanging off, body position and knee dragging. As we know, the main point of hanging off and of having good body position is to be able to reduce the amount of lean angle needed for cornering at a certain speed. The faster you go the more you have to lean the bike, so by hanging off and giving yourself more available lean angle you will enable yourself to go faster. Less lean angle makes the bike more stable, gives you more ground clearance, gives you more traction, leaves you with a margin of error in case you had to lean it over a little more and all that allows you to go faster. One of the things we talk about when discussing good body position and hanging off is lower body stability. The more stable you are on the bike the better all of your control actions will be. You are able to remain more relaxed, have better and more effective steering inputs and keep some of the weight off the seat to allow the suspension to work better. At the Superbike School we teach a skill called Pivot Steering which involves weighting the OUTSIDE PEG. This technique is all about efficiency. By using the outside peg as a pivot point the rider is able to get a more effective steering input. Steering is quicker with less effort. As the rider approaches the corner he weights the outside peg and presses on the inside handlebar to initiate steering. From Twist II "His body is stronger in this position because he is like a camera tripod; the farther out you spread the legs, the more stable it becomes." Not only does this create an effective steering input but weighting the OUTSIDE peg also helps to "reduce your weight on the seat and and puts the majority of the weight on that lower, outside peg." This helps steer the bike as already mentioned but it also helps to allow the suspension to work better underneath you and is ideal for riding surfaces that are less than smooth. Picture a jockey riding a horse, he is up in the saddle letting the horse move up and down below him. Pressing on the outside peg helps to anchor the outside leg into the tank which allows you to easily keep your weight off the seat and helps with overall rider stability. I'll try to read all the posts individually and comment if I have the time..... Misti
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October 27th, 2010, 07:45 AM | #101 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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The last few days I've been working on keeping weight off the handlebars when riding aggressively. I'm slowly getting used to supporting myself with my legs and back. I rode for about an hour this morning, and everytime I was hanging off the bike I would get my body position, and then take my left hand off the bar to obviously force myself to support all my weight with my legs and back.
I never thought I'd get to the point where I could do that (I saw it in a video once, where the guy was dragging knee with only one hand in figure-eights), but I guess I'm barely starting to get it! I notice I am still squeezing the tank with my inside knee, so I am not anywhere nearing draggin' it, and I still can't understand how someone could only hold on eith one hand (supporting no weight) and only one leg. I like learning! Just sharing . |
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October 27th, 2010, 02:40 PM | #102 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Misti
Location: Vancouver, BC
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Quote:
Get into the same BP that you use when riding and try to take the inside hand off the handlebar. If you notice that you are slipping off the bike or that you can't let go without falling off then adjust your BP until you can do it. Most of the time you just need to sit a little further back in the seat, hang your butt off a little less or (hint) lift your outside heel up and push your toes into the footpeg. This often helps you get a better push/anchor with your outside leg onto the tank. Try that before riding and then see if you can get it while on the move. Hope that helps! Misti
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October 27th, 2010, 05:32 PM | #103 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Lee
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Saw a video somewhere that showed one way to work body positioning. Bike was on stands and folks were practicing going from one knee lock to the other. Once there taking hands off bars. If weight and position are correct letting go of the handle bars shouldnt change your position.
Here are the two videos that helped me.
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October 30th, 2010, 10:43 PM | #104 |
Mr. 988
Name: Jeff
Location: Sandy, Utah
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Experimented with the body positioning as explained in the above videos. Wow, now I know what a stable position feels like. That little hip twist just locks you into a solid spot and allows for light pressure on the bars in a turn. +1.
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November 1st, 2010, 02:56 PM | #105 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Lee
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Glad it helped. Safety note: Between those vids and putting the clip ons on the 250 found myself having to double check my turning. Without realizing it I started turning in later to corners and dropping lower. Since I dont wear armor pants/knee pucks riding to and from work that could be bad.
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