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Old September 28th, 2009, 07:43 PM   #41
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Wayan,

Once you finalize your jetting, please add your info to the jetting database.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

Mahalo,
Kelly
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Old September 28th, 2009, 08:18 PM   #42
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oh, that other thread almost seems the same as this one, lol I've seen both at some point, and thought they were the same. ill try and remember to update my dyno runs and fine tuning on the other thread.

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Old June 21st, 2010, 05:25 AM   #43
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Alright guys... Just a little advise needed to perfect my setup. Here's what I have so far.

YEAR: 2009 SE
INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: Stock Air Box Removed with K&N Filters, Kleen air Removed
EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: Area "P" CF QC
JET KIT OR STOCK? Jet Kit
BRAND OF JET KIT? Factory Pro 3
MAIN JET: #112
NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: e-clip #3 from top
MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: 3 turns out from stop
ELEVATION: 0-100

Bike pulls good through the RPM range. Idle is good and sync is perfect. Only complaint I have is a stumbling (lean) feeling when I am at "cruise" speed on the expressway. I started with the mixture screws 2.5 turns out and increased them to 3 hoping to fix this. Is this where the #40 pilot jet comes into play. Should I increase the mixture screws more, switch the pilot jets, or pull the plugs to read them first?

Thoughts?
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Old June 21st, 2010, 05:33 AM   #44
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Go to www.factorypro.com and check out the tuning recommendations!
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Old June 21st, 2010, 05:35 AM   #45
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Yeah i've done that. I'm just not real clear on when to replace the pilot jet so to know wether or not this would fix my issue. Thanks.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 11:21 AM   #46
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the general rule is to go to the next larger pilot when you need to back the mixture screws out more that 3-4 turns. the reason they say to do that is because of the potential of the mixture screw being so loose, it may fall out from vibration.

What I'm getting at is that you can back the mixture screws out a bit more than what they say as a tuning tool. Back it out 4 turns and see if that fixes the stutter. if it does, then you know you need to go to the next larger size pilot.

have you read this thread? Bob is going through the same issue right now. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...799#post181799
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Old June 21st, 2010, 11:44 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
the general rule is to go to the next larger pilot when you need to back the mixture screws out more that 3-4 turns. the reason they say to do that is because of the potential of the mixture screw being so loose, it may fall out from vibration.

What I'm getting at is that you can back the mixture screws out a bit more than what they say as a tuning tool. Back it out 4 turns and see if that fixes the stutter. if it does, then you know you need to go to the next larger size pilot.

have you read this thread? Bob is going through the same issue right now. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...799#post181799
Just caught up on that thread. I'll try backing out to 4 turns and go from there. Thanks kkim
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Old June 21st, 2010, 11:51 AM   #48
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just be careful when you back it out that far... for testing only. the mixture screw falling out could result in gas dripping out that hole, so be careful... did I mention, be careful?

also, you might want to put a piece of tape to cover that mixture screw access hole just in case the mixture screw does fall out, you'll have all the parts and not lose them somewhere along the road.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 12:04 PM   #49
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Ok kkim.... you scaring me Just kidding. Would be just as easy to go ahead and put in a larger jet and start back at 2.5 turns from stop?
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Old June 21st, 2010, 12:07 PM   #50
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sure, if you don't mind doing all that work to change the pilots.

didn't mean to scare you... just thought I needed to emphasize the safety aspect off what I was suggesting.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 12:19 PM   #51
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Wait....Do I need to go up to the #40 pilot or go up to the next Main jet size. I believe is #112.5?

I can handle the 4 turns out, with tape, if you think this will help determine what's needed. I'm good with either direction.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 12:27 PM   #52
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I was recommending you back out the mixture screw 4 turns and see if that fixes your stutter problem. If it does, then you need to increase you pilot to #40.

I know, different advice as what I'm recommending for Bob, but in his case his needle clip is in the richest position as opposed to yours.
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Old June 21st, 2010, 12:35 PM   #53
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Ok I think I'm with ya. Weather here is not so great today but I'll do the 4 turns when I can and report back. Thanks again kkim!
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Old June 23rd, 2010, 06:45 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
I was recommending you back out the mixture screw 4 turns and see if that fixes your stutter problem. If it does, then you need to increase you pilot to #40.
Update: went to 4 turns, used double-sided tape to keep needles from falling out, stumble seemed better, switched to #40 pilot jet (without removing the carbs BTW), started out with 2.5 turns, settled on 2 turns out. Bike is running much better now. Seems maybe a little rich on the bottom off of idle but not too bad. I'm gonna ride it a bit to determine if any additional adjustments are needed.

Thanks again kkim!
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Old June 23rd, 2010, 12:48 PM   #55
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glad the problem is improving.
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Old June 24th, 2010, 06:24 AM   #56
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kkim... Question for you. The bike seems to be running pretty good now. My only concern is each time I come to a stop, I can smell signs the bike is running rich. BP has damaged the environment enough with their spill, I don't want to lend any assitance to them by producing these fumes. Is this normal because the cats have been removed from the exhaust. I didn't really notice it with the #38 pilot jet though. What can you suggest?
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Old June 24th, 2010, 07:20 AM   #57
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Straight from Factory Pro's Website:

Quote:
4. Idle and low rpm cruise
Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs have no caps, but use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit. We do have them available separately, too. 800 869-0497 to order -
Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation. (pj tuning information)
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level (but, you've "fixed" the fuel level in Step 3 - which you have already done!) AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!
Here's the link in you need it...

http://www.factorypro.com/
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Old June 24th, 2010, 11:59 AM   #58
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YEAR:2009
INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: air box delete, K&N R-0990 filter
EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: full yoshimura
JET KIT OR STOCK? kit / stock
BRAND OF JET KIT? dynojet stage 2 / stock (dynojet needles, klien [sic] jets)
MAIN JET: #114
NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: e-clip #4 from top
MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: 3.25 turns out
ELEVATION: 0-700

Just did everything is week. Bike pulls alot harder throughout the rev range. A little easier to ride at high speeds. Don't have to constantly be in sixth gear while going through the city (speed limit where I live is 80km/h).
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Old June 24th, 2010, 12:49 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubojr1 View Post
kkim... Question for you. The bike seems to be running pretty good now. My only concern is each time I come to a stop, I can smell signs the bike is running rich. BP has damaged the environment enough with their spill, I don't want to lend any assitance to them by producing these fumes. Is this normal because the cats have been removed from the exhaust. I didn't really notice it with the #38 pilot jet though. What can you suggest?
how (what method) are you tuning the mixture screw settings?
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Old June 24th, 2010, 01:53 PM   #60
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how (what method) are you tuning the mixture screw settings?
Using the "blip" method and listening to the reaction of the engine. Time needed to return from fast idle to idle = lean. Stumble and return to idle = rich.
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Old June 24th, 2010, 01:57 PM   #61
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you should be okay. The bike will smell a bit "richer" due to the cats being removed. Ever been behind some kid in a street car that has had the cats removed? smells like the car exhausts in the old days before cats...a definite sweeter, strong gas smell. I hate being behind one of them in a drive thru.
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Old June 28th, 2010, 05:16 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubojr1 View Post
Update: went to 4 turns, used double-sided tape to keep needles from falling out, stumble seemed better, switched to #40 pilot jet (without removing the carbs BTW), started out with 2.5 turns, settled on 2 turns out. Bike is running much better now. Seems maybe a little rich on the bottom off of idle but not too bad. I'm gonna ride it a bit to determine if any additional adjustments are needed.

Thanks again kkim!
Heh, did the pilot jet swap as well without removing the carbs. Had a helluva time finding a screwdriver short enough to fit between the carbs & crankcase, but long & thin enough to reach the pilot screw head. I settled on 2 2/3 turns out; kinda surprised on how far I needed to turn it out but seems to behave a bit better now (checked for obvious leaks/blockages on intakes). If nothing else finally don't need choke to start in the summer.
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Old July 3rd, 2010, 10:18 AM   #63
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Quote:
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Heh, did the pilot jet swap as well without removing the carbs. Had a helluva time finding a screwdriver short enough to fit between the carbs & crankcase, but long & thin enough to reach the pilot screw head. I settled on 2 2/3 turns out; kinda surprised on how far I needed to turn it out but seems to behave a bit better now (checked for obvious leaks/blockages on intakes). If nothing else finally don't need choke to start in the summer.
Yeah I swapped them without removing the carbs. I custom made a screwdriver to fit in the space and turned it with vice-grips. Worked well.
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Old August 23rd, 2010, 10:14 AM   #64
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Okay Kelly, I have a question for you. From the Factory The mixture screws are set at two different heights. I think it is L=2.5 and R=1.75 turns. When you are re-jetting and adjusting your mixture, are you setting them uniform; ex: L=2.5 and R=2.5 or at this same offset; ex: L=3.0 and R=2.25?

Thanks for the input.
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Old August 23rd, 2010, 10:22 AM   #65
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yes... after rejetting with an aftermarket jet kit, set the left and right mixture screw settings the same amounts. The aftermarket kits come with 2 identical needles as opposed to different left and right needles as it does on a stock bike.

to be honest, though, I set the mixture screws to where you get the best results using the "alternate" method.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...dle_mixture%3F
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Old August 23rd, 2010, 10:26 AM   #66
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Thank you sir.
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Old August 25th, 2010, 12:57 PM   #67
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Anyone have part numbers on a #40 Pilot jet? I'm having trouble finding the right one.
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Old August 27th, 2010, 01:33 PM   #68
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Trouble finding #40 pilot jets

So, I need 2 #40 pilot jets. All I can find anywhere are the Keihin 22 series jets, that look like this...


As we all know the stock #38s look like this...


Can the 22 series jets be used? If not where can I buy just the #40s? Non-of the distributors here seem to carry them or be able to order them.
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Old August 27th, 2010, 01:39 PM   #69
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http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_str...50R_Ninja.html
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Old October 8th, 2010, 06:32 AM   #70
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Hello. I have searched for this but I can't figure it out for certain. Do the Factory Pro and Dynojet kits use the same jet sizes? In the database are the sizes for stock, Dynojet, and Mikuni, but most everyone seems to be using the FP jet kit and there isn't a comparison chart for the jet sizes. So, are they the same as the dynojet sizes?



I am just about ready to start my mods .
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Old October 8th, 2010, 07:49 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
yes... after rejetting with an aftermarket jet kit, set the left and right mixture screw settings the same amounts. The aftermarket kits come with 2 identical needles as opposed to different left and right needles as it does on a stock bike.

to be honest, though, I set the mixture screws to where you get the best results using the "alternate" method.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...dle_mixture%3F
Hey, talking about the needles, my oem needles were both the same size.? Not sure if it were a mistake or what.?
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Old October 8th, 2010, 11:36 AM   #72
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Hey, talking about the needles, my oem needles were both the same size.? Not sure if it were a mistake or what.?
look closely on the needles. are they stamped with the same or different part numbers?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9467
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Old October 8th, 2010, 01:16 PM   #73
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I'm not to sure. I got to do some more fine tuning to the carbs. I may d oit tonight, so while I am in their, I will look more closely. I just kinda held them together and they seemed the same length.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 01:34 PM   #74
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they are the same lengths... the taper differs between the two.

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Old October 8th, 2010, 01:38 PM   #75
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In the database are the sizes for stock, Dynojet, and Mikuni, but most everyone seems to be using the FP jet kit and there isn't a comparison chart for the jet sizes. So, are they the same as the dynojet sizes?

that list in the database is the cross reference for comparable sized jets between the manufacturers. each manufacturer uses their own numbering system.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 02:27 PM   #76
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they are the same lengths... the taper differs between the two.

Ah, I see.. I need to check if I got the two mixed up now.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 05:46 PM   #77
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Quote:
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that list in the database is the cross reference for comparable sized jets between the manufacturers. each manufacturer uses their own numbering system.
Ok. So FP and Dynojet don't use the same jet sizes? I only asked because it seemed to be the most popular kit everyone was using, but it was not listed in the chart so I thought I must have been missing something.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 06:16 PM   #78
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what is it that you have questions about in this table?

Here are some main jet conversions between manufactures-

Width------Keihin # -- DynoJet # --- Mikuni #
0.0350---- 92.5--------- 92----------- 86.3
0.0360---- 95----------- 94----------- 88.1
0.0370---- 97.5--------- 96----------- 90.0
0.0380---- 100---------- 98----------- 91.9
0.0390---- 102.5------- 100---------- 93.8
0.0400---- 105--------- 102---------- 95.6
0.0410---- 107.5------- 104---------- 97.5
0.0420---- 110--------- 106---------- 99.4
0.0430---- 112.5------- 108--------- 101.3
0.0440---- 115--------- 110--------- 103.1
0.0450---- 117.5------- 112--------- 105.0
0.0460---- 120--------- 114--------- 106.9
0.0470---- 122.5------- 116--------- 108.8
0.0480---- 125--------- 118--------- 110.6
0.0490---- 127.5------- 120--------- 112.5
0.0500---- 130--------- 122--------- 114.4
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Old October 8th, 2010, 08:17 PM   #79
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I was trying to find where Factory Pro fit in with those.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 08:34 PM   #80
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Keihin and Factory Pro use the same numbering system.... so a 110 Keihin is a 110 Factory Pro.
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