What Oil and Filter Do You Use? - Page 3

Angel-be-Good · February 16th, 2009, 11:54 AM

I've changed twice with the Kawi filter and Redline 10W-40 full synthetic. If I knew NAPA filters came with the o-rings, I'd've bought there instead (will next time!).

What's the benefit of a 5W-40 instead of the Kawasaki recommended 10-40? Wouldn't mind having more options when I buy...

kkim · February 16th, 2009, 11:55 AM

5w-40 will flow better at lower ambient startup temps.

komohana · February 16th, 2009, 12:19 PM

changed oil & filter yesterday, made the switch to synthetic Rotella 5w - 40 with a kawasaki filter the previous owner gave me. didn't change o-rings this time (didn't have any actually..), and all seems to have gone alright.

Suey250 · February 16th, 2009, 07:40 PM

Using Castrol 10w40 at first with Fram filters, but now using Castrol with K&N filters. After this thread I'm going to definitely check out this Rotella synthetic oil once I get closer to 3,500 miles.

Nemy · March 13th, 2009, 03:57 PM

I'll be using Rotella T conventional 15w40 with K&N filters during break-in and probably switch to Rotella T synthetic 5w40 after.

I have also tried Castrol Motorcycle 10w40 in the 06 and it runs just fine... but new bike deserves extra attention

00v_Lucky · March 13th, 2009, 11:59 PM

QUESTIONS:

How do you change to full synthetic/Part synthetic? Any loops I have to jump through or any special procedures.

If I do change to synthetic, do you think the kawi/k&n filters will be sufficient?

Also, the dealership gave me crap about the crush washer. Thoughts about that? They said there is a certain metal inside of it that is only good for one "crush" but I do not buy that **** at all. (I previously did get the crush washer, and saw on the receipt they charged me $5.00 for that POS.) I know that the FRAMs from walmart come with a crush washer and thinking about getting that.

kkim · March 14th, 2009, 12:21 AM

changing to synthetic or part synthetic takes no special procedure, just change the oil. I would not suggest changing to synthetic until at least 1000 miles.

Personally, I would use any of the filters listed in the oil change DIY except Fram.

no oil filters that I know of come with crush washers... you are mixing them up the o-rings for the filters.

Crush washers are indeed a one time use item. $5 for on is ridiculous. Get new crush washers from any auto parts store. Just take the old one with you and match it up with what's available there.

xTKx · April 2nd, 2009, 02:12 PM

Changed the oil a while back ago just over 100mi. using kawi 10-40 oil and a carquest oil filter (came with all new o-rings). Didn't see any metal shavings and the oil was still a nice amber color.
Plan to change again around 400mi. before the bike goes in for it's first maintenance service where they'll give me another oil change for free.

sometimesido · April 2nd, 2009, 10:02 PM

changing to Rotella in 200 miles and one of the filters listed on the "other" site.

kkim · April 2nd, 2009, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sometimesido

changing to Rotella in 200 miles and one of the filters listed on the "other" site.

filters are listed on this site, too.

sometimesido · April 2nd, 2009, 10:15 PM

hehe. just so used to the faq page.
and this I just found.

link

kkim · April 2nd, 2009, 10:22 PM

lol... Alex gets a rash every time someone mentions that site and there he is linking to it.

sometimesido · April 2nd, 2009, 11:03 PM

Alex · April 2nd, 2009, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

Alex gets a rash every time someone mentions that site

True, but I found a great cream for that...

kkim · April 3rd, 2009, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

True, but I found a great cream for that...

ew... I'm not even going to ask.

Blue Ninja 250R · April 3rd, 2009, 02:59 AM

One of the mechanic here advice that not to use fully shythetic on bike as it's good for the engine but not the gear. any comment? (I've changed to fully shythetic at 2000km anyway). BTW, how offen you change the oil for :-
1) Fully synthetic - ???KM or miles
2) Semi synthetic - ??? KM or miles
3) water base/non synthetic - ??? km or miles.

kkim · April 3rd, 2009, 03:52 AM

I've not had any clutch slippage problems since switching to a full synthetic at 1000 miles and now have a little over 2500. As far as gear changes, my shifting seems to have gotten smoother, though I have no statistical/analytical data to prove less pressure is needed by my foot to engage my next gear.

Oil change frequency is a matter of debate and left mostly up to the owner. As long as you change it as often as recommended by the maintenance schedule, you should do no harm the engine and changing it more frequently might prove beneficial. I plan to change my oil every 3-5k miles now that my motor is fully broken in and I'm running a full synthetic.

almost40 · April 8th, 2009, 01:39 PM

I run Fram filter and Mobil 1 Synt got it all at AutoZone. I changed to Synth at 3000 miles and will change it again this winter or at 6000 miles. FYI I have 4 used filters for sale and 7 quarts of used oil.

Snake · April 8th, 2009, 01:45 PM

U use the Kawi filter and Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil

kkim · May 20th, 2009, 12:55 AM

smcbride11 · May 20th, 2009, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrueFaith

Actually, even the Ninja 250 manual states that you can use automotive oil although I wouldn't want to try it with a wet clutch that has enough problems shifting with motorcycle-specific formulations. The clutch really needs a thicker oil like Rotella.

I've got automotive Quaker State 10w-40 and a WIX filter at the moment, based on the manual and a few other sites I saw online... I figured that worst case it'll be in there for about 500 miles until I switch to Rotella-T, and that's not going to cause any lasting harm.

Anecdotally, I've noticed improved cold starting and easier shifting since I got off the Kawi oil. The cold starts (under 50* F) may be more related to break in than oil, but I'm sure the shifting is oil related as it improved immediately - I very, very rarely catch the gear 1.5 false neutral anymore and I used to grab it all the time even with a hard kick upward on shift.

IlBLisSlI · May 20th, 2009, 08:16 AM

i just use the kawi filter with synthetic aimsoil 10w-40
its what my local shop keeps in stock

its always funny though to hear them ask "you are aware this oil is 10 dollars a bottle right...?"
who the hell makes a big deal out of spending 20 dollars for an oil change? hell it costs 60 or so to change the oil in my small car, so when i see 20 dollars for an oil change i feel like doing an Irish jig!

SpyderGirl · May 20th, 2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl

Right now I'm using Castrol 10w-40 and a K&N filter.

I am using the same thing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by IlBLisSlI

its always funny though to hear them ask "you are aware this oil is 10 dollars a bottle right...?" who the hell makes a big deal out of spending 20 dollars for an oil change? hell it costs 60 or so to change the oil in my small car, so when i see 20 dollars for an oil change i feel like doing an Irish jig!

I got that the last time I went and got oil for the Spyder. Of course I have to buy 4 quarts for that. Costs me about $75 to do an oil and filter change in the Spyder and about $35 in the Ninja.

beowuff · May 20th, 2009, 02:10 PM

I'm currently running Mobil 1 synth with a K&N filter. I'm planning on switching to Rotella on the next change.

When switching to synth, the only thing you have to worry about is switching too soon.

The issue has to do with the clutch plates, not the gears or engine. If the clutch plates are not worn in enough when you switch to synth, then the plates won't catch when you release the clutch. This happens because the molecules in synth oil are more "uniform and slippery"... If you're on a dry clutch bike, then I'd switch at the first change. My 250 got switched at about 3500 miles.

chess · May 21st, 2009, 06:04 AM

Still in the break in period. Oil changes at 300 and 600. Using 10W-40 Quaker State (cheapest name brand at Wal-Mart) and Fram filters (O'reilly's hasn't been terribly reliable about having the Wix). I figure with oil changes at very short intervals, neither the oil nor the filter have much time to break down.

The next change will be at about 1200, and it should be my last with conventional oil...and I was thinking about a small dose of Restore to make sure I have a good seal around the rings.

At 2000 or so, I'll go full synthetic (will check out Rotella) and I finally got a couple of Wix filters.

SpyderGirl · May 21st, 2009, 08:18 AM

I've been reading through here and I was curious about something. Are you guys using standard automotive oil or motorcycle specific oil?? I use motorcycle specific oil as I hear that automotive oil had detergents in it that is not good for motorcycles. I have heard this from more than one person.

kkim · May 21st, 2009, 01:21 PM

I've been using regular car oil, but with a caveat.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_o...NOT_be_used%3F

SpyderGirl · May 21st, 2009, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

I've been using regular car oil, but with a caveat.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_o...NOT_be_used%3F

Ah yes, the deal with having a wet clutch and using that energy conserving stuff... the Spyder is exactly the same way. I'm going to just stick with the MC oil, I feel safer that way.... even though that automotive oil is cheaper.

Any issues with me using a part synthetic during my break-in period?? I bought the 5w40 part synthetic for my first oil change.

beowuff · May 21st, 2009, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpyderGirl

Any issues with me using a part synthetic during my break-in period??

It's my understanding that the issue with synthetic is that your clutch plates may take longer to wear in. This could mean loss of power early on. Even with synthetic, the plates should EVENTUALLY wear in. Dino oil is usually used during break in to make sure they wear together in a timely manner.

I have, however, heard rumors that all Ducatis, even wet clutches, ship with synthetic. So, I don't know how true any of this is...

The best idea is to read up on oil and make a best guess...

kkim · May 21st, 2009, 01:40 PM

You should be okay, but my recommendation would be to use a full conventional oil until the break in period is over. There is no telling how much synthetic is in that blend and it might cause you some ring seating problems. Now (the break in period) is the time you want to be sure your engine rings seat well against the cylinder walls.

Lots of high load (on/off throttle) applications (rev at least to 9k), lots of heat cycles (short trips) and frequent oil/filter changes.

SpyderGirl · May 21st, 2009, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

You should be okay, but my recommendation would be to use a full conventional oil until the break in period is over. There is no telling how much synthetic is in that blend and it might cause you some ring seating problems. Now (the break in period) is the time you want to be sure your engine rings seat well against the cylinder walls.

Lots of high load (on/off throttle) applications (rev at least to 9k), lots of heat cycles (short trips) and frequent oil/filter changes.

Okie. Thanks. I'll just take it back or maybe just hold onto it for one of the next oil changes. At the time I was in a hurry and that's what they had sitting out that was easiest to get to.

kkim · May 21st, 2009, 01:49 PM

yeah, save it for the first oil change after the break in period is over. The conventional should be rather cheap to pick up, so it's not like it's a great financial drain, especially if you use regular car oil.

SpyderGirl · May 21st, 2009, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

yeah, save it for the first oil change after the break in period is over. The conventional should be rather cheap to pick up, so it's not like it's a great financial drain, especially if you use regular car oil.

Yeah, no problem. I'll stop by Auto Zone on the way home and pick some up. I don't want to take any chances. I'll save the part syth oil until like my 4th oil change.... I plan on doing it every 400 - 500 miles until I hit around 3K. I think by the time I get up close to 2K it won't hurt to use part synthetic then go to full synthetic after 3K. What do you think?

kkim · May 21st, 2009, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpyderGirl

Yeah, no problem. I'll stop by Auto Zone on the way home and pick some up. I don't want to take any chances. I'll save the part syth oil until like my 4th oil change.... I plan on doing it every 400 - 500 miles until I hit around 3K. I think by the time I get up close to 2K it won't hurt to use part synthetic then go to full synthetic after 3K. What do you think?

Yep, I went to a full synthetic at 1K and have had no problems, so you using the blend anytime after 1K sounds like a good plan.

SpyderGirl · May 21st, 2009, 02:14 PM

Excellent. Thanks.

chess · May 21st, 2009, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpyderGirl

Yeah, no problem. I'll stop by Auto Zone on the way home and pick some up. I don't want to take any chances. I'll save the part syth oil until like my 4th oil change.... I plan on doing it every 400 - 500 miles until I hit around 3K. I think by the time I get up close to 2K it won't hurt to use part synthetic then go to full synthetic after 3K. What do you think?

I think that you're OK by 1K.

At 1000 miles, assuming an average speed of 50MPH, you've ridden 20 hours or 1200 minutes. Assuming you average 6000 RPMs for that 1200 minutes, each piston has cycled 7.2 million times at 1000 miles.

The above is just for arguments sake, and you could vary a few million either way depending on how softly you break her in, but if the rings haven't seated by 1000 miles, they're not going to.

Just saying.

Alex · May 21st, 2009, 02:18 PM

But if the train was going 35 mph when it left heading due west 28 minutes ago, when would it pass the Albuquerque-bound express?

chess · May 21st, 2009, 02:22 PM

beowuff · May 21st, 2009, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chess

7.2 million times

This is why break in is arguably more important for the clutch plates then the engine. 90% of the engine break in is already done by the engine manufacturer and the mechanic at the bike shop. Both test the engine with high RPM's before they sell the bike. Gotta make sure it starts up

Just sayin :P

00v_Lucky · May 21st, 2009, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

I've not had any clutch slippage problems since switching to a full synthetic at 1000 miles and now have a little over 2500. As far as gear changes, my shifting seems to have gotten smoother, though I have no statistical/analytical data to prove less pressure is needed by my foot to engage my next gear.

yes, this was the first thing i noticed when i switched over to shell synthetic 5w-40 (with 401 K&N oil filter) about 200 miles ago.

February 16th, 2009, 11:54 AM	#81
Angel-be-Good ninjette.org guru Name: Ryan Location: San Francisco Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, '11 Street Triple R Posts: 337	I've changed twice with the Kawi filter and Redline 10W-40 full synthetic. If I knew NAPA filters came with the o-rings, I'd've bought there instead (will next time!). What's the benefit of a 5W-40 instead of the Kawasaki recommended 10-40? Wouldn't mind having more options when I buy... __________________________________________________ The Sunday Best \| Current mileage: 50,000

February 16th, 2009, 12:19 PM	#83
komohana ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Steve Location: Kekaha, Kauai HI Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 GSX-R 600 2003 EX250: Woodcraft Bars, Levers, Mirrors, Shim'd Mixture, Synthetic, '08 Rear Shock Posts: A lot.	changed oil & filter yesterday, made the switch to synthetic Rotella 5w - 40 with a kawasaki filter the previous owner gave me. didn't change o-rings this time (didn't have any actually..), and all seems to have gone alright. __________________________________________________ Remember when sex was safe and motorcycles were dangerous?

April 2nd, 2009, 02:12 PM	#88
xTKx Finally! Name: Tony Location: Central TX Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 Red 250R Posts: 420 Blog Entries: 4	Changed the oil a while back ago just over 100mi. using kawi 10-40 oil and a carquest oil filter (came with all new o-rings). Didn't see any metal shavings and the oil was still a nice amber color. Plan to change again around 400mi. before the bike goes in for it's first maintenance service where they'll give me another oil change for free. __________________________________________________ -2009 Red Ninja 250R- Intuitive frame sliders, comp werkes fender eliminator ...

April 2nd, 2009, 10:02 PM	#89
sometimesido ninjette.org sage Name: Chris Location: Norcross, GA Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 250R Posts: 772 Blog Entries: 14	changing to Rotella in 200 miles and one of the filters listed on the "other" site. __________________________________________________ my flickr™

April 2nd, 2009, 10:15 PM	#91
sometimesido ninjette.org sage Name: Chris Location: Norcross, GA Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 250R Posts: 772 Blog Entries: 14	hehe. just so used to the faq page. and this I just found. link __________________________________________________ my flickr™

February 16th, 2009, 11:55 AM	#82
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	5w-40 will flow better at lower ambient startup temps.

February 16th, 2009, 07:40 PM	#84
Suey250 Da Peon Name: Tony Location: Virginia Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 31	Using Castrol 10w40 at first with Fram filters, but now using Castrol with K&N filters. After this thread I'm going to definitely check out this Rotella synthetic oil once I get closer to 3,500 miles.

March 13th, 2009, 03:57 PM	#85
Nemy ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Portland, OR Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2009 SE Ninja 250R Posts: 796	I'll be using Rotella T conventional 15w40 with K&N filters during break-in and probably switch to Rotella T synthetic 5w40 after. I have also tried Castrol Motorcycle 10w40 in the 06 and it runs just fine... but new bike deserves extra attention

March 13th, 2009, 11:59 PM	#86
00v_Lucky ninjette.org sage Name: Howard Location: Cypress, So. Cal. Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Candy Thunder Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 618	QUESTIONS: How do you change to full synthetic/Part synthetic? Any loops I have to jump through or any special procedures. If I do change to synthetic, do you think the kawi/k&n filters will be sufficient? Also, the dealership gave me crap about the crush washer. Thoughts about that? They said there is a certain metal inside of it that is only good for one "crush" but I do not buy that **** at all. (I previously did get the crush washer, and saw on the receipt they charged me $5.00 for that POS.) I know that the FRAMs from walmart come with a crush washer and thinking about getting that.

March 14th, 2009, 12:21 AM	#87
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	changing to synthetic or part synthetic takes no special procedure, just change the oil. I would not suggest changing to synthetic until at least 1000 miles. Personally, I would use any of the filters listed in the oil change DIY except Fram. no oil filters that I know of come with crush washers... you are mixing them up the o-rings for the filters. Crush washers are indeed a one time use item. $5 for on is ridiculous. Get new crush washers from any auto parts store. Just take the old one with you and match it up with what's available there.

April 2nd, 2009, 10:22 PM	#92
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	lol... Alex gets a rash every time someone mentions that site and there he is linking to it.

April 2nd, 2009, 11:03 PM	#93
sometimesido ninjette.org sage Name: Chris Location: Norcross, GA Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 250R Posts: 772 Blog Entries: 14	__________________________________________________ my flickr™

April 3rd, 2009, 02:59 AM	#96
Blue Ninja 250R ninjette.org member Name: Stanley Location: Kedah, Malaysia Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 Posts: 80	One of the mechanic here advice that not to use fully shythetic on bike as it's good for the engine but not the gear. any comment? (I've changed to fully shythetic at 2000km anyway). BTW, how offen you change the oil for :- 1) Fully synthetic - ???KM or miles 2) Semi synthetic - ??? KM or miles 3) water base/non synthetic - ??? km or miles.

April 3rd, 2009, 03:52 AM	#97
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I've not had any clutch slippage problems since switching to a full synthetic at 1000 miles and now have a little over 2500. As far as gear changes, my shifting seems to have gotten smoother, though I have no statistical/analytical data to prove less pressure is needed by my foot to engage my next gear. Oil change frequency is a matter of debate and left mostly up to the owner. As long as you change it as often as recommended by the maintenance schedule, you should do no harm the engine and changing it more frequently might prove beneficial. I plan to change my oil every 3-5k miles now that my motor is fully broken in and I'm running a full synthetic.

April 8th, 2009, 01:39 PM	#98
almost40 ninjette.org Monkey Spank Name: Kevin Location: Illinois Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Track-Bike Woodcraft clip-ons and rearsets FZ-6 track bike Posts: A lot.	I run Fram filter and Mobil 1 Synt got it all at AutoZone. I changed to Synth at 3000 miles and will change it again this winter or at 6000 miles. FYI I have 4 used filters for sale and 7 quarts of used oil. __________________________________________________ Black 250R Full Area P QC Dyno Jet Kit 100 main 41T Rear Sprocket

April 8th, 2009, 01:45 PM	#99
Snake ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Rick Location: Alexandria, Louisiana Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 Blue Ninja 250 Posts: Too much. MOTY - 2017, MOTM - Jan '19, Oct '16, May '14	U use the Kawi filter and Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil

May 20th, 2009, 12:55 AM	#100
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.

May 20th, 2009, 08:16 AM	#102
IlBLisSlI i'm a cow killer Name: Drew Location: Daytona FL Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 250r Posts: 142	i just use the kawi filter with synthetic aimsoil 10w-40 its what my local shop keeps in stock its always funny though to hear them ask "you are aware this oil is 10 dollars a bottle right...?" who the hell makes a big deal out of spending 20 dollars for an oil change? hell it costs 60 or so to change the oil in my small car, so when i see 20 dollars for an oil change i feel like doing an Irish jig!

May 20th, 2009, 02:10 PM	#104
beowuff ninjette.org member Name: Yancy Location: Redmond Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: 225	I'm currently running Mobil 1 synth with a K&N filter. I'm planning on switching to Rotella on the next change. When switching to synth, the only thing you have to worry about is switching too soon. The issue has to do with the clutch plates, not the gears or engine. If the clutch plates are not worn in enough when you switch to synth, then the plates won't catch when you release the clutch. This happens because the molecules in synth oil are more "uniform and slippery"... If you're on a dry clutch bike, then I'd switch at the first change. My 250 got switched at about 3500 miles.

May 21st, 2009, 06:04 AM	#105
chess Ninjette Afficionado! Name: chess Location: Wichita Falls Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): Red...the sexiest color. Posts: 66	Still in the break in period. Oil changes at 300 and 600. Using 10W-40 Quaker State (cheapest name brand at Wal-Mart) and Fram filters (O'reilly's hasn't been terribly reliable about having the Wix). I figure with oil changes at very short intervals, neither the oil nor the filter have much time to break down. The next change will be at about 1200, and it should be my last with conventional oil...and I was thinking about a small dose of Restore to make sure I have a good seal around the rings. At 2000 or so, I'll go full synthetic (will check out Rotella) and I finally got a couple of Wix filters.

May 21st, 2009, 08:18 AM	#106
SpyderGirl 3 for street, 2 for dirt Name: Katlyn Location: San Francisco Bay Area (California) Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Can Am Spyder PE #1344 / 2009 Kawi KLX140L Monster Energy / 2009 Kawi Ninja 250R (RIP 8.23.09) Posts: 586	I've been reading through here and I was curious about something. Are you guys using standard automotive oil or motorcycle specific oil?? I use motorcycle specific oil as I hear that automotive oil had detergents in it that is not good for motorcycles. I have heard this from more than one person. __________________________________________________ Feel free to look me up on facebook.

May 21st, 2009, 01:21 PM	#107
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I've been using regular car oil, but with a caveat. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_o...NOT_be_used%3F

May 21st, 2009, 01:40 PM	#110
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	You should be okay, but my recommendation would be to use a full conventional oil until the break in period is over. There is no telling how much synthetic is in that blend and it might cause you some ring seating problems. Now (the break in period) is the time you want to be sure your engine rings seat well against the cylinder walls. Lots of high load (on/off throttle) applications (rev at least to 9k), lots of heat cycles (short trips) and frequent oil/filter changes.

May 21st, 2009, 01:49 PM	#112
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	yeah, save it for the first oil change after the break in period is over. The conventional should be rather cheap to pick up, so it's not like it's a great financial drain, especially if you use regular car oil.

May 21st, 2009, 02:14 PM	#115
SpyderGirl 3 for street, 2 for dirt Name: Katlyn Location: San Francisco Bay Area (California) Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Can Am Spyder PE #1344 / 2009 Kawi KLX140L Monster Energy / 2009 Kawi Ninja 250R (RIP 8.23.09) Posts: 586	Excellent. Thanks. __________________________________________________ Feel free to look me up on facebook.

May 21st, 2009, 02:18 PM	#117
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	But if the train was going 35 mph when it left heading due west 28 minutes ago, when would it pass the Albuquerque-bound express? __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

May 21st, 2009, 02:22 PM	#118
chess Ninjette Afficionado! Name: chess Location: Wichita Falls Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): Red...the sexiest color. Posts: 66

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