What Oil and Filter Do You Use?

[tapdiggy]

I have used the "Green Blood" Kawasaki-branded synthetic (Motul Product) and now I use Rotella T Full synthetic. I ahve always used Fram oil filters because they are widely available and not expensive.

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by tapdiggy

I have used the "Green Blood" Kawasaki-branded synthetic (Motul Product) and now I use Rotella T Full synthetic. I ahve always used Fram oil filters because they are widely available and not expensive.

FWIW, several members have noted flaws in the Fram filters for our bikes that were rather concerning.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780

[Ramen]

Originally Posted by Greg_E

You need to read the articles linked

I have. However, it seems to be all theory. Until someone actually states that they had to have their clutch replaced due to not using a specific type of oil, I remain skeptical that it is the oil rather than abuse or neglect. I place motorcycle oils in the same bin as filling your tires up with nitrogen.

In any case, the Shell Rotella listed above doesn't have those friction modifers, so it's win-win.

[tapdiggy]

Originally Posted by Momaru

FWIW, several members have noted flaws in the Fram filters that were rather concerning.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780

I am finding lots of negative reports about auto "pot-type" filters, not so much cartridge filters like for motorcycles. The possibility is that there is a difference. For instance, WIX oil filters for cars are billed as too restictive with oil flow-through but the motorcycle filters do not suffer such stigma, and many here use them.

[kevlar250]

Originally Posted by Ramen

I have. However, it seems to be all theory. Until someone actually states that they had to have their clutch replaced due to not using a specific type of oil, I remain skeptical that it is the oil rather than abuse or neglect. I place motorcycle oils in the same bin as filling your tires up with nitrogen.

In any case, the Shell Rotella listed above doesn't have those friction modifers, so it's win-win.

I had to replace the clutch in my Suzi DR350s because previous owner used car oil. It would slip in the upper gears. When I removed the friction plates they were the same thickness as the new plates I put in. I believe they were saturated with that friction modifier stuff and could not grip as they should. Now it grabs solid.
Heard many times that the Rotella T syn is great bike oil and lower cost than the Amsoil I use.
Nitrogen is better for stabilizing the pressure in car tires that go from -20 to 100 deg. Not sure if it makes any diff in bike tires.

[jonthechron]

Originally Posted by kevlar250

I had to replace the clutch in my Suzi DR350s because previous owner used car oil. It would slip in the upper gears. When I removed the friction plates they were the same thickness as the new plates I put in. I believe they were saturated with that friction modifier stuff and could not grip as they should. Now it grabs solid.
Heard many times that the Rotella T syn is great bike oil and lower cost than the Amsoil I use.
Nitrogen is better for stabilizing the pressure in car tires that go from -20 to 100 deg. Not sure if it makes any diff in bike tires.

the air we breath is 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, oxygen escapes from your tires 3-4 times faster than nitrogen. having 95% nitrogen just keep the air in your tires 3-4 times longer. Less having to fill up often. Then again, how often do you pump your tires?

[Reswob]

Originally Posted by jonthechron

the air we breath is 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, oxygen escapes from your tires 3-4 times faster than nitrogen. having 95% nitrogen just keep the air in your tires 3-4 times longer. Less having to fill up often. Then again, how often do you pump your tires?

The real advantage to nitrogen is that the pressure fluctuates less due to temperature changes than standard 'air'. If you're actually losing air from your tires you have a leak, no matter what 'air' is in them...

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by MKlein3004

shell rotella and wix filter.

+1

[Rayme]

I use nothing but amsoil and K&N filters.

Since I switched to amsoil I never seen that "fog" in the sight lens ever after a ride, which makes me beleive it's way better than dinosaur oil.

[Momaru]

What is that 'fog' anyway, if you know?

[headshrink]

If I have ever had fog, I didn't know it.

[BlueRaven]

Kawasaki synthetic and K&N filter. Will swith to amsoil synthetic at next oil change. Can't find rotella synthetic 5W40 around here just the 15W40 for diesel engines.

[DarkNinja52]

Does anyone know what size crush washer is necessary on the drain plug? I didnt change it when I did my oil change but im beginning to think I should have? I heard it doesnt matter so much, but you never know.

I used Mobile Clean 5000 and a K&N 401 Oil Filter (came with O-rings).

[2WheelGuy]

http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687...-097/Source/KA

I buy a bunch of them to keep on hand even though I do reuse them several times.

[greg737]

I highly recommend using a high quality synthetic oil. I use Shell Rotella T synthetic.

250 Ninja motors have a design flaw that can cause a loss of oil pressure when run hard. I don't know if this has been corrected in the new motors or not but I doubt it.

I have seen many 250s with spun bearings. I've even lost a motor myself before I got anal about oil. I was running dinosaur oil and letting the oil level get down to the lower level mark.

Since burning up my (my girlfriends) motor I switched to Shell Rotella T and have maintained the oil level at the full mark at all times. Since then I have ridden many dozens of days at the track with no engine failures.

Somebody can correct me if this is wrong, but when I bought my 2005 (used) I was told that the problem with the EX-250 engine oil system was the oil-return galleries. At really high RPMs the oil can't get back down out of the head (camshaft galleries, etc.) fast enough and ends up filling the head, getting vented overboard into the air box and onto the road via the drain hose. If you're even the tiniest bit low on oil while running at sustained high PRMs (right at the redline) this filling of the head can leave the main bearings exposed and they burn up.

Kawasaki's fix was to lower the CDI spark-cut threshold to a point below where this starts to really be a problem.

The point at which the IC igniter begins cutting spark, by year:

1988-1995: 15,500 RPM
1996-2005: 14,500 RPM
2006-->: 14,000 RPM

Unless you've substantially modified the engine (carbs, porting, pistons, rods, exhaust, etc.) it runs out breathing room and stops making horsepower at about 12,500 to 13,000 anyway, so there's not a lot to be gained from riding at the redline.


It is nice to know that if it wasn't for one little flaw in the design the EX-250 (pre-gen) engine is really a pretty bullet-proof 15,500 RPM design.

[DarkNinja52]

Originally Posted by 2WheelGuy

http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687...-097/Source/KA

I buy a bunch of them to keep on hand even though I do reuse them several times.

sweet thanks for the link

[CZroe]

OK, I was told to go to Wal-Mart for Shell Rotella T 5W-40. What I found was Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Same thing? It was the last bottle and it was leaking all over the place due to a partially unscrewed cap.

[Samer]

Originally Posted by CZroe

OK, I was told to go to Wal-Mart for Shell Rotella T 5W-40. What I found was Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Same thing? It was the last bottle and it was leaking all over the place due to a partially unscrewed cap.

This one is actually certified. Quote from Wikipedia:

"The newer fully synthetic T6 oil also lists JASO-MA compliance as per the Rotella website."

[backinthesaddleagain]

I just put the T6 in monday night. Havent had a chance to ride since however due to weather and a couple obligations that required using a car.

[utahninja]

I am going to go with the Rotella T6 myself for my first oil change since I bought the bike. The prevous owner used Mobile 1, but it seems a lot of people are raving about Rotella, and with the lower price it is a go for me.

The question I have is how long does everyone go between oil changes with synthetics? I was thinking of 5k, but is this too long?

[tapdiggy]

I haven't gone more than 2,000 miles between changes. The interval is dictated by how the bike feels when I ride. When the clutch gets consistently less smooth, I change it out.

[HKr1]

Golden Spectro & Kawi filters, always keep a few on hand

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Samer

This one is actually certified. Quote from Wikipedia:

"The newer fully synthetic T6 oil also lists JASO-MA compliance as per the Rotella website."

Thanks!

[headshrink]

I saw the words, "Energy saving" on the Shell website for the T6..... does that indicate friction modifiers, or is that different?

[utahninja]

It is my understanding if it says "Energy Conserving" then you shouldn't use it because of the additives, however, the T6 oil says "Energy Saving" and is JASO-MA approved.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t6_detail.html

[CZroe]

The Kawi service shop called me to say that I provided them the wrong oil (Shell Rotella T6 5W-40)!

[jonthechron]

Motul 7100 and K&N-401

[Snake]

I usualy use Mobile 1 10W-40 full synthetic but they were out so I am going to try Royal Purple 10W-40 full synthetic. I will let you know if I notice a difference.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by CZroe

The Kawi service shop called me to say that I provided them the wrong oil (Shell Rotella T6 5W-40)!

shops are dumb.

[BlueRaven]

Kind of reminds me when i last went to my dealership to get a screw and told him i was gonna put Rotella synthetic at my next oil change and he said "why". Kinda of felt guilty so i bought a jug of kawi synthetic from him. Figured if he was gonna back me up for my warranty by doing my own work the least i could do is use kawi oil once.

[miks]

Just switched to Mobil 1 5w-50 Full Synthetic with Supersyn!

[headshrink]

We can use synthetic oils in our bikes!!!???? Are you crazy.... my dealer said it would burn the clutch!!!!

[HKr1]

Originally Posted by BlueRaven

Kind of reminds me when i last went to my dealership to get a screw

Going to get what

[BlueRaven]

lol...i was hoping no one would twist that one around

[ScorpionNinja]

Originally Posted by utahninja

The question I have is how long does everyone go between oil changes with synthetics? I was thinking of 5k, but is this too long?

Hmmm good question! @ 2,000 miles i switched and changed my own oil and used the 5w-40 Rotella T (kkim uses)
bought mine at wal-mart $14.00 for a 4 qrt. jug!

Thats about 2 oil changes per/Year! (unless you ride a shitload of miles like 25k in 1yr)

I changed my oil again the day i Winterized it, about 4,000 miles later!
The oil looked pretty good in color and not too dirty.

Im not a SAE certi-moto mechanic, but i would say 5,000 miles would be the MAX I personally go, between oil changes!

If you live in a Hot, High Humid state,etc (like Florida/AZ/TX) and do alot of Highway miles, then you might wanna change your oil 3k for peace of mind!

Me, im going to leave in the Rotella T 5w-40 i put in the day i winterized it, then change it around Middle of June! Just b4 the Hotter weather really starts setting in.

Next oil change im gonna use my works Account for a discount, and Order some 5w-40 or 10w-40 full synthetic Oil from AMS-Oil! I read a magazine that i got in the mail (junk mail like) weeks ago, from AMS oil, and it had some nice info and tests about a bunch of Oils vs eachother!

We use AMS-Oil in all our equipment/machines at work and never had a problem with them in the 7 yrs ive been working there!


But, answer IMO, sure 5,000 miles = max b4 oil changes!

[Focus Mike]

I am waiting for my Wix filters to get shipped out, I just purchased 4 quarts of AMSOIL too.

Oil change coming by this weekend I hope. I want to see what the hype is about with the smooth shifting and what not. I use it in my turbo charged Focus. Never had a problem.

[ScorpionNinja]

Originally Posted by Focus Mike

I am waiting for my Wix filters to get shipped out, I just purchased 4 quarts of AMSOIL too.

Oil change coming by this weekend I hope. I want to see what the hype is about with the smooth shifting and what not. I use it in my turbo charged Focus. Never had a problem.

'smooth shifting' - are you referring to AMSOIL being that?
Or when you dump the Dino/Conventional oil to full synthetic?

I really did notice a smoother shifting and clutch play when i dumped the Kawi-dealership oil i had done at 610 miles, at the 2,000 mile mark when i changed to the Rotella T 5w-40!

I now have 6,500 miles. I dunno if the Rotella T made that difference, or just cuz the bike being broke-in!

Im sure it felt better, smoother though!

[Focus Mike]

With synthetic oil in general I suppose. I purchased the Amsoil because I run it in my hi power car and its been great. It supposed to be the best oil money can buy weather true or not I have had good experience from it.

Oh my mom called me and told me my Wix filters came in the mail!

This weekend I will do the oil change and maintenance. I am rather excited.

[headshrink]

This would make a good poll.

[utahninja]

I just changed the oil to Rotella T6 5W-40, and can't believe the difference in shifting. So nice and smooth now. I should have changed it sooner, but was waiting for the oil filters I ordered off of eBay and warmer weather.