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Old May 13th, 2011, 02:17 PM   #1
pilot815
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2005 With carb issues and water leak

I have a 2005 that i just bought last week. When we bought it, it wouldnt run unless the choke was on. For the past couple days ive been working on it, and i cleaned the carbs and put them back on the bike today. I got the bike running, but when i rev the engine to about 3 or 4 thousand RPMs it will stay there when i release the throttle. The cables are returning properly and the butterflys are working right. If i put it under load, like releasing the clutch a bit, it will lower down to about 1500 rpms where i have it set and then it will settle. When i rev it back up, it stays there again.

The other problem i have is that it seems to be leaking water from cyl head. I took the cover off to check the valves, does that have any effect on the seal?

I know my way around a carb... sort of, but need help solving this issue.

The idle are screw seems to be correct on both carbs. 2.5 turns out.
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Old May 13th, 2011, 07:41 PM   #2
pilot815
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I have the water leak figured out. See last part: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Hints_%...lve_Adjustment

Ill fix that on Monday. Ive got some ideas as to what the carbs issue is, but i cant touch it until Monday. Tomorrow im meeting up with some KLR650 buds to switch out a doo-hickey!
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Old May 13th, 2011, 07:43 PM   #3
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Best name for a motorcycle part ever. It's almost reason enough to buy a KLR.
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Old May 13th, 2011, 07:53 PM   #4
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Best name for a motorcycle part ever. It's almost reason enough to buy a KLR.
They make good keychains...if you get it before its broken! My dads KLR has a thermobob. Im not convinced its needed though.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 06:39 PM   #5
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They make good keychains...if you get it before its broken! My dads KLR has a thermobob. Im not convinced its needed though.
I installed a Thermobob and it gets the water temp up to at least 1/3 or higher on the temp gauge in the winter. I forgot what temp thermostat came with the kit. Before I had it, it would not get off C during the winter.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 07:29 PM   #6
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I installed a Thermobob and it gets the water temp up to at least 1/3 or higher on the temp gauge in the winter. I forgot what temp thermostat came with the kit. Before I had it, it would not get off C during the winter.
Im sure when it gets cold where he lives it will be nice. Right now in the summer it keeps the bike too hot, when he stops after getting off the highway the engine almost overheats.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 12:28 PM   #7
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Hanging rpm's is a sign of a vacuum leak or running really lean.

Make sure the carbs are pushed up against intake runners and tighten. Same with the air filter.

Check if vacuum lines are correct and not leaking either.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 12:36 PM   #8
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Hanging rpm's is a sign of a vacuum leak or running really lean.

Make sure the carbs are pushed up against intake runners and tighten. Same with the air filter.

Check if vacuum lines are correct and not leaking either.
Another cause of vacuum leak like symptoms are the idle air screws. I found that the rubber o-rings on one screw was missing, and the other was very badly damaged. I should be receiving new ones any day now to replace those. All the vacuum hoses are new on the carbs and have been checked for leaks by spraying with carb cleaner. They all checked out fine.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 12:40 PM   #9
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Another cause of vacuum leak like symptoms are the idle air screws. I found that the rubber o-rings on one screw was missing, and the other was very badly damaged. I should be receiving new ones any day now to replace those.
good find!
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Old May 20th, 2011, 12:45 PM   #10
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good find!
I thought so to, i just hope its the solution. Im ready to ride this little beast. I took if for a spin around the block, and its actually a fun little bike. I honestly didnt think i would enjoy it as much as i did. The wife doesnt take her class for the license until June 18th so that gives me time to play with the bike before i have to turn it over to her. From then on it will be full time on the KLR.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 12:54 PM   #11
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unfortunately, that means someone was in there before you. The problem now is, what else was touched on the bike by this "mechanic"? Ah, the joys of buying a used bike... always be looking out for the "easter egg".

btw, was just watching some offroad klr vids on yt last night of some trail rides in new zealand. man, those things are beasts.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:02 PM   #12
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unfortunately, that means someone was in there before you. The problem now is, what else was touched on the bike by this "mechanic"? Ah, the joys of buying a used bike... always be looking out for the "easter egg".

btw, was just watching some offroad klr vids on yt last night of some trail rides in new zealand. man, those things are beasts.
IDK the bike is really clean other than that. I dont think there will be many other surprises, besides the price was very very good compared to other bikes in this area.

KLRs are awesome! Ive had mine for about a year and a half and its just 100 miles shy of 15,000 miles. I estimate that about half of that is from riding in Mexico and most of that was rough road and heavily loaded. Its been in all kinds of mountains, and other dirt terrain. It handles twisties very well. The bike is really the ultimate go anywhere do anything machine. The other night i rode my friends 1200GS and fell more in love with the KLR after that. If you could only have one bike, the KLR would have to be it.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:08 PM   #13
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well, the mixture screws have caps on them from the factory so they are not accessible. if yours did not have those aluminum plugs covering the mixture screws, someone was in there.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:13 PM   #14
pilot815
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well, the mixture screws have caps on them from the factory so they are not accessible. if yours did not have those aluminum plugs covering the mixture screws, someone was in there.
Yeah i noticed the caps werent there. I had to remove the one on the KiLleR when i did the needle shim, slide drill, and screw adjustment. What gave me comfort is that the screws on the Ninja were backed out the 2.5 turns that everybody seems to recommend. At least we know the last person to touch the carbs sort of knew what he was doing. On my way to check the mail box and see if the magical kit is in the mail.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:15 PM   #15
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jet kit?
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:23 PM   #16
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jet kit?
Appeared to be stock.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:45 PM   #17
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On my way to check the mail box and see if the magical kit is in the mail.
sorry, I was referring to this.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 01:47 PM   #18
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sorry, I was referring to this.
Oh no its just the screw packing kit to replace to o-rings. No jetting for me.
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Old May 24th, 2011, 01:49 PM   #19
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So got the new o-rings and replaced the springs, washers, and o-rings. I reassembled everything. And it didnt do much to help the problem. I pulled the carbs again and rechecked the floats. The float on the right carb was not shutting off, and that was causing the carb to overflow a lot. I took it all apart again and cleaned it real well. Re-checked float level with the hose on the side method and it worked real well. Both sides were right where they need to be. I think i found a vac leak on the right carb but didnt get a chance to troubleshoot it. It was getting too hot, and i really wasnt in the mood to pull the carbs for the 3rd time today.

While trying to start it i was having a problem with it cutting out. I would turn the bike on, and the lights on the dash would come on for N. I would hit the starter button, it would click from around the fuse box, all the power would go out, and about 10 minutes later everything would work again just fine. Is there some kind of self-resetting fuse in these? Could it have been hot since i had been trying to start it a lot of times? I was letting the starter rest so as to not overheat it.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 03:12 PM   #20
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While trying to start it i was having a problem with it cutting out. I would turn the bike on, and the lights on the dash would come on for N. I would hit the starter button, it would click from around the fuse box, all the power would go out, and about 10 minutes later everything would work again just fine. Is there some kind of self-resetting fuse in these? Could it have been hot since i had been trying to start it a lot of times? I was letting the starter rest so as to not overheat it.
Found this problem. It was a lazy mistake. I had a bad connection on the neg terminal for the battery.

Today i found another o-ring missing causing a vacuum leak. Its the ring from the coasting enricher. Seems like somebody took this thing apart, lost a bunch of little pieces and then put it back together hoping it would run. I had to order the o ring since i couldnt find a generic one that would fit. Should be in next week.
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Old June 3rd, 2011, 11:17 PM   #21
pilot815
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O-Ring worked perfect and i took the bike for a shakedown run. Put 100 miles on it riding to breakfast and back. Carbs ran just fine, just needed a little fine tuning on the idle adjustment as the bike warmed up. Its right where it needs to be now. Fun bike, but too small for me. Im 6'3". The front end has a bad shimmy at 45. I loosened my grip on the bars and it got real bad before i grabbed back on again. Mini tank slapper. Going to balance the front wheel, and change the fork oil and see if that takes care of it. Everything else ran fine.
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Old June 4th, 2011, 12:13 AM   #22
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http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13288
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Old June 4th, 2011, 07:06 AM   #23
pilot815
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So the question is, did you change your tire yet?
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Old June 4th, 2011, 09:40 AM   #24
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So the question is, did you change your tire yet?
nope.
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