09' Ninja 250 Running On One Cylinder

[jnr1114]

Hello there!
So I was recently went riding after the bike has been sitting all winter. I started every couple of weeks and rode it too keep things flowing.

I encountered a problem several miles from my house. The bike had a sudden loss of power. I managed to get the bike home not being able to succeed 50mph and very VERY slow acceleration.
I got home and started diagnosing the bike. First thing I did was let it cool off and test if both cylinders were working by touching both header pipes as it warmed up. Well, to my surprise, only one header got hot while the other was dead cold after 5 minutes of running. So obviously the first thing I checked was spark. I have a beautiful blue spark from the dead side of the engine.

I'm thinking it could be a clog in the carburetor from sitting all winter. The bike has 15,000 miles on it. (bought it at 12,000 last summer) So I don't know if it had any valve adjustments or carburetor tuning. Had a nasty crash last summer (breaking some bones) and had to replace the rear wheel and several other parts. Bike ran 2,000 miles after the crash so I doubt it had anything to do with that.

Just asking for tips on what it might be. Something that commonly goes out on the bikes? It is my first bike and first time ever working on one. I just removed the carburetor and it looks beautiful. Haven't took it apart yet.

[choneofakind]

First thing first. Take the tank off and confirm that the spark plug in the non-running cylinder is still physically threaded into the head the whole way. When I had a problem with the threads in cylinder 1, my number 1 spark plug blew out, denting the bottom of the tank. Single cylinder operation and lots of backfiring when at forced idle ensued.

After that, assuming the plug is still installed properly and nothing is physically wrong there, check all the electrical connections. Then work your way to electrical checking.

Easy stuff first.

[MrAtom]

Look on the bright side. Now you have a really heavy Grom!

[Linkin]

How did you check spark? It might work OK outside of the cylinder but not under compression. Can't hurt to replace the plugs anyway.

Do a compression test. If the reading is low, measure and adjust the valve clearance. Do another compression reading.

If the reading is back into an acceptable range, you found your problem.

If it's not, do a leakdown test. If that comes up OK look at your spark and fuel supply.

[choneofakind]

Gee, that definitely sounds like the hard stuff first... He's right, that's a possibility to check, but check the easy stuff first.

Suck, squish, bang, blow. That's how an engine works. So check for fuel, spark, air, and compression. But for the sake of your own sanity, check the simple stuff first.

[bruce71198]

Take the air cleaner cover off and while the bike is running spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the non running cylinders carburetor, if the cylinder picks up you have a fuel delivery problem.

[VaFish]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Take the air cleaner cover off and while the bike is running spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the non running cylinders carburetor, if the cylinder picks up you have a fuel delivery problem.

I'd use starting fluid not carb cleaner, but same principal.

My guess is a stuck float valve if it has been sitting for a while.

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by VaFish

I'd use starting fluid not carb cleaner, but same principal.

You could, but if you go buy a can of starting fluid to use 2 squirts out of then you'll end up with a mostly full can of starting fluid laying around your shop. At least if you buy a can of carb cleaner you can use the rest to clean out the carb if it ends up being your problem.

[jnr1114]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Take the air cleaner cover off and while the bike is running spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the non running cylinders carburetor, if the cylinder picks up you have a fuel delivery problem.

Wish I would've thought of this before I took the whole damn thing apart! Haha. Since everything is out today I will be replacing sparkplugs, air filter, and cleaning the carbs. Getting the carbs out was hell. The airbox is still in the bike, it'll be hard to squeeze that thing back in.

I do have a compression tester so once I put everything back in and it still refuses to combust, I will test that. I'm worried about the whole valve adjustment deal. But I do believe it is way overdue. I'm sure there is a good article to help me out about it if it comes to that.

Thanks for the responses guys.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by jnr1114

Getting the carbs out was hell. The airbox is still in the bike, it'll be hard to squeeze that thing back in.

It does get easier after you've done it a few times but yes; it's a fight! Make sure you've loosened the airbox so you can wiggle it back as much as possible.

[VaFish]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

You could, but if you go buy a can of starting fluid to use 2 squirts out of then you'll end up with a mostly full can of starting fluid laying around your shop. At least if you buy a can of carb cleaner you can use the rest to clean out the carb if it ends up being your problem.

Have cans of both on the shelf in the garage.

Or you could be like Racerx and use an unlit propane torch.

[jnr1114]

Ok so this is interesting... I took my spark plugs into my local motorcycle shop. They said that they are for the old ninja 250 model up to the 07'. (CR8HSA), and told me my bike needs CR8E. The post is longer on the CR8E. The bike was running beautifully for the whole time I had it on spark plugs not meant for the bike? I'm a little nervous replacing it with it's proper spark plug because I don't know how much clearance is between the spark plug and the cylinder at TDC. Hopefully I didn't by a 09' body with an 07 engine. I don't know the physical difference between those engines so I can\t tell if it had a swap or not.

Any way to tell if it's a older engine that was swapped into the bike? The only code I could find on the engine was EX250JEA31086. The J looks promising showing that it is infact the original engine.

[Racer x]

Is there a vacuum hose coming out of the top of the valve cover? That is a new gen engine. And the long cr8e is the proper plug.

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by VaFish

Have cans of both on the shelf in the garage.

Or you could be like Racerx and use an unlit propane torch.

I would argue that the length of straw on the carb cleaner can that doesn't come on the starting fluid can would make it easier to direct the spray into an individual carburetor. I like the propane trick.

[jnr1114]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Is there a vacuum hose coming out of the top of the valve cover? That is a new gen engine. And the long cr8e is the proper plug.

Large vacuum hose running off the valve cover. So I guess I'm putting in the CR8Es. After I reinstall the carb... I opened her up and she looks flawless. like brand freakin' new. What a nightmare this is getting it back in there. Next time I am definitely throwing out the air box and getting pods or something.

[Racer x]

The easy way is to remove the rear wheel and rear bodywork. Once you have done not a couple times it is not a big deal. But the first time is difficult.did you remove the caps over the idle screws?

[jnr1114]

Originally Posted by Racer x

The easy way is to remove the rear wheel and rear bodywork. Once you have done not a couple times it is not a big deal. But the first time is difficult.did you remove the caps over the idle screws?

Didn't want to remove the whole back because I had so many bolts, screws, and body already and I was stressin haha.

The bike is running right now. Got everything back together and she idles fine and revs good and both pipes are hot.

Although the choke now raises the rpm to 6,500 when fully warmed up and before it was 4,500. (I leave the choke on 'till it stays at a consistent RPM every time).

[jnr1114]

Also my throttle is pretty sticky. I think the pull back cable must need to be tightened?

[Racer x]

Be careful adjusting both cables. Loose is better on both sides. Also there is a cable adjustment for the choke.
Glad you got it back to running on two cylinders . The Ninja 125 is very slow.

[choneofakind]

Sticky throttle = check for places where the throttle cables may have pinched under the tank as you put the bike back together. Also, lube them as needed.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by jnr1114

Didn't want to remove the whole back because I had so many bolts, screws, and body already and I was stressin haha.

The bike is running right now. Got everything back together and she idles fine and revs good and both pipes are hot.

Although the choke now raises the rpm to 6,500 when fully warmed up and before it was 4,500. (I leave the choke on 'till it stays at a consistent RPM every time).

Reduce the choke as soon as possible and only use enough to keep it running around 2500 or so. Less is more.

Don't let it idle to "warm up" - because it really won't. The water temp will come up, but it really takes riding at a moderate level to bring the oil up to operating temp.

That's when it's truly "warmed-up".

[jnr1114]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Sticky throttle = check for places where the throttle cables may have pinched under the tank as you put the bike back together. Also, lube them as needed.

I'll definitely check that out. How do I lube it up?
I think I may have placed that little ball thing at the end of each cable backwards so it is rubbing on the side of the butterfly valve actuator where the cable connects. (No idea what it's actually called lol).

[jnr1114]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Be careful adjusting both cables. Loose is better on both sides. Also there is a cable adjustment for the choke.
Glad you got it back to running on two cylinders . The Ninja 125 is very slow.

Yes it was very slow. And having to rev it to 8k just to take of was annoying as well.

[choneofakind]

Motion pro cable lubing tool.

[Ghostt]

Dri Slide Bike Aid, the one I use and find it a lot less messy, and easier that the Motion Pro tool

Dri-Slide* Bike Aid Lubricant, 4oz Plastic Spout-Top Bottle
Bike Aid creeps into the smallest spaces including the pins on the chain and cures to leave behind a dry film of moly. This unique dry film won't attract dirt or dust, is highly resistant to water, and prevents rust and corrosion It is the perfect lubricant to use on brake and gear cables, derailleurs, front and rear brake pivot points, shift controls, chains quick release nuts. Prevents cable freeze up. It functions properly in temperatures from -20* F to 7500* F.

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Dri-Slide.../dp/B001F2Y25G


And don't forget the throttle tube as well.