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Old May 21st, 2017, 07:59 AM   #1
Speedy3
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Is this chain done?

Gimme your .02. In VA, under a cover, but tons of rain and humidity. Surface rust around about the chain. Pic is aftrr about 10 minutes of grunge brush and kerosene.
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Old May 21st, 2017, 09:04 AM   #2
csmith12
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How to tell if its time to change the chain 101.

1. Does it have any frozen links?
2. Does it make a patterned grinding noise that seems to come and go as speed changes?
3. Once adjusted to spec slack, will hit hold that slack for many, many miles?
4. Is the chain visibly damaged in any way?
5. Is there any abnormal wear patterns that cause concern?
6. Will the clip/rivet stay secure on the master link?
7. Does the chain slack measure "fairly close" if take in 4 different spots on the chain?


8. Do you not like the color of your chain?
9. Is your chain too dirty even after cleaning it very well?
10. Are you jelly that your track buddy has a race chain and you still have the 520?

hahahahahahah
Take a stiff bristled brush and give it a good cleaning, it looks fine to me.
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Old May 21st, 2017, 10:36 AM   #3
Speedy3
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I appreciate the insight!

I broke down and bought a new one. This will be my lady's track bike, and if anything did happen on that chain, I'd hang up my helmet.

Nothing wrong with starting fresh!
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Old May 21st, 2017, 11:13 AM   #4
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Good man!
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 06:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy3 View Post
I appreciate the insight!

I broke down and bought a new one. This will be my lady's track bike, and if anything did happen on that chain, I'd hang up my helmet.

Nothing wrong with starting fresh!
I would consider renewing the sprockets also. A new chain run on worn sprockets usually = early chain damage. Gives you a chance to play with your overall drive ratio also.

Bill
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 06:37 PM   #6
Speedy3
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Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
I would consider renewing the sprockets also. A new chain run on worn sprockets usually = early chain damage. Gives you a chance to play with your overall drive ratio also.

Bill
Agreed! I got the Vortex kit. Kept it stock just so I can learn a bit more before I meddle!
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 10:20 PM   #7
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New Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy3 View Post
Agreed! I got the Vortex kit. Kept it stock just so I can learn a bit more before I meddle!
Great, I never install a new chain on worn sprockets. I remember once on my Kaw 500 triple I got 18K miles out of a set of sprockets and chain (non "O" ring). The sprocket teeth were actually worn to sharp points.

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Old August 2nd, 2017, 09:35 AM   #8
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I didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I'd piggyback on this one.

My chain is very loose and not in great shape.
I am looking to just tighten up the chain to get a little more use out of the bike, I probably won't replace the chain as I do not want to put any more money into the bike.

I watched a video on chain adjustment and they said to not adjust the chain past the horizontal slash on the wheel alignment markers. Is this true, can I tighten up my chain past this point? I added some pics below.
Thanks





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Old August 2nd, 2017, 10:10 AM   #9
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I don't know what slash they're talking about, but you probably have enough adjustment range to tighten that (super loose) chain. That said, it looks like it's in pretty bad shape and probably not safe. Breaking a chain underway can be VERY bad.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 10:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjizzle36 View Post
I didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I'd piggyback on this one.

My chain is very loose and not in great shape.
I am looking to just tighten up the chain to get a little more use out of the bike, I probably won't replace the chain as I do not want to put any more money into the bike.

I watched a video on chain adjustment and they said to not adjust the chain past the horizontal slash on the wheel alignment markers. Is this true, can I tighten up my chain past this point? I added some pics below.
Thanks
You are at the beginning of the horizontal-slash. Go ahead and tighten the chain to proper tension and note where it is on the slash. As you get close to the end of slash, time to get a new chain.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 01:41 PM   #11
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why can you not take it past the horizontal slash? maybe a new chain, so you still have adj room, but other than that I dont see why not. school me.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 02:06 PM   #12
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I guess if you want to not have to replace chain AND both sprockets, you can replace just chain at end of slash mark. After that, things are too worn and you should replace all three.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 02:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
I guess if you want to not have to replace chain AND both sprockets, you can replace just chain at end of slash mark. After that, things are too worn and you should replace all three.
I replace everything when the rear sprocket teeth are worn to points. I'm so cheap I squeak. Cheaper than a third squirt of cat pee.

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Old August 2nd, 2017, 02:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
I guess if you want to not have to replace chain AND both sprockets, you can replace just chain at end of slash mark. After that, things are too worn and you should replace all three.
so it has nothing to do with location, for example when i drop some teeth in the rear, for gearing, on my smallest sprocket i am past the hash mark, and your saying thats no good? i dont want to drop a link just for the smaller sprocket.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 03:07 PM   #15
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so it has nothing to do with location, for example when i drop some teeth in the rear, for gearing, on my smallest sprocket i am past the hash mark, and your saying thats no good? i dont want to drop a link just for the smaller sprocket.
I don't know what all the fuss is about the "hash" mark. I never had a motorcycle, including my present Ninja, with a "hash" mark. Maybe it's just a friendly reminder that your chain is wearing, All the chain and sprockets care about is the amount of free play in your chain. Do your sprocket thing, properly adjust your chain and ride. If you run out of adjustment then worry about removing a link.

Bill
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 03:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
I don't know what all the fuss is about the "hash" mark. I never had a motorcycle, including my present Ninja, with a "hash" mark. Maybe it's just a friendly reminder that your chain is wearing, All the chain and sprockets care about is the amount of free play in your chain. Do your sprocket thing, properly adjust your chain and ride. If you run out of adjustment then worry about removing a link.

Bill
Idid not understand the hoopla on the hash mark either,
i did watch a motogp vid where they kept the axel in the same location when changing out the sprockets, to not change the geometry of the bike, was not sure if thats where they were going with there post.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 05:04 PM   #17
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Yeah, I never bother with marks on swingarm because they're really not that accurate.

I prefer to measure wear in %-stretch or pull-chain-off-sprocket test. I'm running a 18/59t 428 conversion anyway, so those marks don't apply.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 05:08 PM   #18
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Right, it's just a fool-proof test to know when the chain is worn to the point of needing replacement, but it relies on your having the stock sprockets installed. Measuring the chain is really the most straightforward and accurate way to know when it needs replacement.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 07:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrshooter View Post
so it has nothing to do with location, for example when i drop some teeth in the rear, for gearing, on my smallest sprocket i am past the hash mark, and your saying thats no good? i dont want to drop a link just for the smaller sprocket.
Yeah, not location relevant for anything but stock chain & sprockets. I usually mill the slot forwards and remove two links from chain to shorten wheelbase anyway.

You didn't hear that from me and you can't use it to go faster than me!
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