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Old January 9th, 2014, 09:23 AM   #121
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Old May 21st, 2014, 07:22 PM   #122
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Old June 6th, 2014, 02:10 PM   #123
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@CThunder-blue's extensive off-site write-up is gone.

Anyway, I just unboxed two HID Xenon projector kits from eBay (green halos, yellow halos) and things are looking a little... weird.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuAx...ature=youtu.be

Link to original page on YouTube.

This is the listing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151075390896...84.m1439.l2649

I notice now that it doesn't say "Bi-Xenon" anywhere and doesn't seem to mention hi/lo or anything related in the description. Oop$. I would have ordered the BKmoto kit if they had it in yellow, but now I know I should have ordered it regardless. I thought that Bi-Xenon beam control was the whole point of the projectors.

First, the seller contacted me before shipping to say that he was including 6000k bulbs, so I assume he was out of the 4300/4700 I requested. A marker pen was used to check certain options on the bottom of each projector assembly. One from the green kit was marked BOTH 6000 and 8000k. A wire attached to the bulb said "6000k" so it matches in specification, but the attached rubber grommet is completely different from the other three (more like @borka's BKMOTO DIY). The others look like plugs instead of grommets.

The four HID ballasts were packaged individually but the wiring harnesses and CCFL inverter/ignitors were supposed to be in each projector box. Instead, only one projector from each kit has a wiring harness and the green kit had no igniters! I made a test fit with the whole assembly (ballast, control box, igniter, bulb, CCFL, etc) and discovered that, yes, I would need four of each. Sure enough, the listing says each kit is supposed to have two wiring harnesses and two ignitors. In the video I thought one wire harness was for two projectors. The listing also shows an H4 connector on the harness yet these have bullet connectors.

One of the yellow projector kits the warranty seal broken, no paperwork, no shrink wrap, hand prints, all mounting hardware removed and packaged directly against the projector shroud, and no bag for the igniter. WTF?!

The yellow kit had "Red Evil Eye" checked on the boxes despite there being no option for demon/devil/evil eyes in the auction listing. Interesting. That's why the yellow kit has an extra wire. The installation instructions say that the wire coming from the "control box" that fits here is for "Bi-Xenon control light."

WAIT. So the yellow kit has Bi-Xenon after all?! Or the hi-beam's solenoid power used for the evil eye instead? Despite calling it "Bi-Xenon," the manual still says "Do not use this product on high beam of headlamp." The rest is almost unintelligible Engrish. I can see what looks like a spring and a metal shutter when I look into the lens of all four projectors, so are these Bi-Xenon after all? The green kit still has nothing to connect there even though the control box still has the cable. I hesitate to open them up to look thanks to the warranty seal issue I already have.

If one kit does have shutters and solenoids in both projectors, can I move one to the other kit so that both kits have one aim down and the other switch between hi/lo? Because these were designed to mount in standard bulb opening, I can only adjust the aim of entire assembly so I might have to fab up a fixed shutter.

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Old June 6th, 2014, 02:24 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
@CThunder-blue's extensive off-site write-up is gone.
I updated the URL in a previous post http://www.modmy250.com/250RHID/250RHIDretrofit.htm

Not sure how long it will be there though.
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Old June 6th, 2014, 07:43 PM   #125
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CZroe, chill. You have the bixenons. See the extra red wires going into the projector in your video? Those are what power the solenoids. Also, I can see the spring and stuff inside the projector when you point the camera down the lens.

Take it for what it is; cheap bixenon projectors with terrible engrish instructions.
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Old June 7th, 2014, 04:45 AM   #126
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Thanks, but I'm still confused.

The green kit has no wire to connect to the "Bi-Xenon control light" connection from the control box. It has four connectors, two of which go to the HID bulb, two which connect to the inverter/igniter (assume they are both for CCFL). I don't think any of those could control the solenoid.

The yellow kit has the extra wire to connect to the "Bi-Xenon control light" connection from the control box, but it also supposedly has demon/devil/evil eyes, which I assume is powered on when I flip on my high beams. I guess it also activates the solenoids when I do that, but it's still only on the yellow kit.

There's still the whole problem where each kit is missing a wire harness and the green kit has no CCFL inverters/igniters.

I sent the seller an email last night. I'm not in a hurry because I have enough to get one kit working (all I need for now) but I do need them to make it right.
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Old June 7th, 2014, 05:46 AM   #127
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You might just have to do your own wiring for a bunch of it. You can pretty easily splice the high beam to the solenoid control. That's not hard. Powe both lights off the stock low beam, and both the solenoids off the high beam.

As far as the halo/demon eye thing... Whatever man, that's not really my cup of tea. I've no experience with that and I like it better without. I installed an LED ring around my headlight and still have not wired it in.
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Old June 7th, 2014, 06:00 AM   #128
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
...
As far as the halo/demon eye thing... Whatever man, that's not really my cup of tea. I've no experience with that and I like it better without. I installed an LED ring around my headlight and still have not wired it in.
I feel the same way about the demon eyes but I think it's powered with the solenoid and I'd have to break into the projector to isolate it.

Because the other kit doesn't even have the wire at all I think I have to break the warranty seal to wire up the solenoid. It's very strange that it would even have a solenoid with no way to power it.

I picked yellow angel eyes so that I can make the blue bike look more like the Blue Falcon from F-Zero but even that was because I was forced to pick a color. I originally planned black mesh in the fairing vents with yellow skateboard tires sitting in there like frame sliders for the same visual effect.
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Old June 7th, 2014, 02:42 PM   #129
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Huh. I would have just gotten projectors without all the farkely LED's honestly...
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Old June 7th, 2014, 04:12 PM   #130
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...
That's exactly what I would have done if this weren't a salvage job on a ruined headlight with time/effort constraints. I had to buy a kit to avoid trial and error and the cheapest kits I found specifically for the 250 have CCFL angel eyes. Because I had to do the retrofit to salvage the headlight anyway, yellow rings there are actually easier than my idea of using black mesh + yellow skateboard tires in the fairing vents. *shrug* They point forward more like the Blue Falcon's intakes too, so I felt like everything was pointing toward doing that. I, too, think they look too gaudy for a simple "style" upgrade.

This conversation reminds me of this exchange on Kawiforums a few short weeks after I got my bike:
http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...ml#post1356274

I actually agreed but couldn't resist the opportunity to post another "ORLY?!" owl.
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Old June 10th, 2014, 07:47 AM   #131
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You were right, Chris. The missing wire from the green kit was from the demon eye and the remaining two were for the angel eye and the solenoid. I thought I did a test fit and determined that the remaining two could only connect to the igniter, but I was wrong.

This also explains my missing inverters. The yellow kit had two because the extra demon eyes need another. The auction listing packing list says "2x CCFL Angel Eye with inverter," which can be interpreted as either one or two inverters (in context one would assume/expect two). Because I didn't ask for or pay for the demon eyes, they probably expect me to leave them disconnected and use the inverter on the other kit's angel eyes.

I noticed something new to complain about though: the screw hole for securing a tiny bracket holding the bulb is too close to the threads used for actually mounting the projector so you can see a hollow shaft under the threads! The other projectors aren't like that.

Of course, I am still missing two wiring harnesses. One would assume that they'd make ONE harness with ONE fuse and ONE relay with ONE connection to the battery, but the description says otherwise and the harness definitely only connects to one projector/ballast.
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Old June 11th, 2014, 06:22 AM   #132
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I made that post yesterday with the specific intention to point out something else I noticed during the test fit and then completely forgot to mention it.

The projectors are clearly labeled as to which side is the "top" and that correctly orients the CCFL ring gap at the bottom, but the plate that blocks the hi-beam is on the BOTTOM. This can't be right. It's not like a camera lens making an upside-down image on the other side of the lens because the spring and solenoid aren't flipped when I look through the lens. It looks like I'm going to have to mount them upside-down with the CCFL gap at the top.
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Old June 11th, 2014, 07:52 AM   #133
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The gate goes on the bottom. The curve of the reflector inverts the image. So the gate on bottom creates a shadow on top.

Physics.
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Old June 11th, 2014, 09:27 AM   #134
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The gate goes on the bottom. The curve of the reflector inverts the image. So the gate on bottom creates a shadow on top.

Physics.
Thanks.

That was actually my first thought so I looked for a diagram or discussion about it and could find nothing on Google after wasting lots of time.

I'm guessing the spring appeared on the side it was physically on because I was observing from too close for the camera lens flip/reverse effect.
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Old June 11th, 2014, 05:32 PM   #135
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It's not the lens that flips it. It's the reflector. You can look into that projector all day and it's never going to look like the gate is on top :P

That gate actually is on bottom.
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Old June 12th, 2014, 05:26 AM   #136
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Any idea what the connectors at 3m40s (direct link) in the video are called? I don't want to splice because I may be in a dispute with the seller over the missing wire harnesses and broken warranty seal. They look like the blinkers connectors from the F-gen wire harness which, IIRC, were a weird size that was not easily available at auto parts stores and such. This is the closest I can find online and it doesn't look right (too big):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=930107_0_0_
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Old June 12th, 2014, 06:11 AM   #137
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No idea on the connectors.

It looks like you got shipped some parts that had previously been returned by other sellers. Hence the bad packaging and hand prints and broken seal. Bad seller. IMHO, you should return everything and try again with a plain projector without the fancy extras. Use a different seller.
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Old June 13th, 2014, 02:12 PM   #138
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I need an "ignition on" power source (like dash lights) that isn't only "post engine start" (like headlights) so that I can have fewer toggle switches for HID/angel/demon and only power my 12v socket while the key is turned.

Somehow, I don't think it would be smart to tap the dash lights for two dual CCFL inverters with four CCFLs (2angel+2demon) and a 12v socket. Is there a better alternative that doesn't involve using a relay? If not, what specs should I look for in a relay?

I don't want an illegal headlight kill switch but I do want the ability to temporarily power the CCFLs without the HIDs when the engine is off. If the HIDs behave like the headlights while the CCFLs behave like the dash lights, the HIDs should shut off when I move the key to off and back on but the dash, CCFLs, and 12v socket would all still have power.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 08:01 AM   #139
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The brown wire is basically the source of all switched power on the bike. It goes into the junction box and feeds all the circuits that aren't always hot (I'm assuming a bit based on the PreGen/500, as the wiring diagram doesn't show where a few of the fuses are sourced from). The switched brown wire in the dash is fed off the brown/black wire from the Ignition fuse, which in turn should be fed by the main switched brown wire going into the j-box.

You could use the brown wire going into the junction box to trigger a relay, and feed that into the j-box in place of the original brown wire (to remove losses for any switched circuits) as well as running it to your accessories. The 500/PreGen j-box also has an unused Acc fuse and an output from the Headlight fuse that bypasses the turn-on-delay relay - I'm not sure how the NewGen compares.

The Main fuse is only 30A and the individual circuits are only 10A, so any standard automotive relay (usually 40A) should be more than enough for anything on the bike. Depending on exactly where you're going to mount it, it's probably a good idea to get something waterproof. http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html
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Old June 15th, 2014, 08:09 AM   #140
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The brown wire is basically the source of all switched power on the bike. It goes into the junction box and feeds all the circuits that aren't always hot (I'm assuming a bit based on the PreGen/500, as the wiring diagram doesn't show where a few of the fuses are sourced from). The switched brown wire in the dash is fed off the brown/black wire from the Ignition fuse, which in turn should be fed by the main switched brown wire going into the j-box.

You could use the brown wire going into the junction box to trigger a relay, and feed that into the j-box in place of the original brown wire (to remove losses for any switched circuits) as well as running it to your accessories. The 500/PreGen j-box also has an unused Acc fuse and an output from the Headlight fuse that bypasses the turn-on-delay relay - I'm not sure how the NewGen compares.

The Main fuse is only 30A and the individual circuits are only 10A, so any standard automotive relay (usually 40A) should be more than enough for anything on the bike. Depending on exactly where you're going to mount it, it's probably a good idea to get something waterproof. http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html
Awesome info! Thanks a lot. The F-bike has a convenient way to convert the stock accessory plug to being switched but since the J-bike doesn't have accessory plugs I'd prefer to make my own distribution block with a switched power (relay-controlled).

I wouldn't go through the trouble just for HID farkles except that I also plan to install a stealth stereo in the near future and it would really come in handy then. Don't worry: I'm not the type to go around town blasting obnoxious music (I listen with helmet speakers). It's so that I can momentarily blast Captain Falcon quotes ("Show me your moves!") and F-Zero tunes for anyone who recognizes the Blue Falcon theme at a stop light.
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Old May 28th, 2018, 05:59 PM   #141
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Not to ressurect an old post, but I was wondering if anyone who had a copy of the original DIY would be able to post a link? I'm keen to do this mod on my bike but all the links are dead (which I suppose is understandable!
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Old May 28th, 2018, 06:23 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by simo26246 View Post
Not to ressurect an old post, but I was wondering if anyone who had a copy of the original DIY would be able to post a link? I'm keen to do this mod on my bike but all the links are dead (which I suppose is understandable!
Here's link to kit to purchase: http://www.bkmoto.com/index.php?rout...&product_id=55

And how-to guide: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...aki-ninja-250r
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Old May 28th, 2018, 07:18 PM   #143
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Thanks for that. Any chance you know where to find a more detailed DIY guide? I was more looking for a project and a plug and replace deal!
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Old May 29th, 2018, 03:07 PM   #144
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Not sure there's more detailed one for Ninja 250R. Basis of most effective HID retrofits is to re-use original reflector as bridge that holds HID lamps to outer lamp-housing. This is preferable to HID lamps that just sit in original bulb-socket, resulting in large cantilever moment and lots of waggling and waving lights, which eventually breaks bulb-socket.

Simplest to separate HID light and line up its reflector with original reflector and draw an outline with Sharpie. Cut that with Dremel inside line to make hole too small and gradually expand it to it grips HID light firmly and balanced fore and aft. Then epoxy it to original reflector for firm attachment. The shrouds may need some trimming to to fit all way down original reflector.

Obviously, this is lots of custom work since this light configuration never left factory production-line of any sort. So you're not going to be able to find finished product that's plug-n-play unless you buy someone else's custom work. In which case, be careful and inspect everything extremely closely, especially aim of light.
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Old May 29th, 2018, 04:03 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Not sure there's more detailed one for Ninja 250R. Basis of most effective HID retrofits is to re-use original reflector as bridge that holds HID lamps to outer lamp-housing. This is preferable to HID lamps that just sit in original bulb-socket, resulting in large cantilever moment and lots of waggling and waving lights, which eventually breaks bulb-socket.

Simplest to separate HID light and line up its reflector with original reflector and draw an outline with Sharpie. Cut that with Dremel inside line to make hole too small and gradually expand it to it grips HID light firmly and balanced fore and aft. Then epoxy it to original reflector for firm attachment. The shrouds may need some trimming to to fit all way down original reflector.

Obviously, this is lots of custom work since this light configuration never left factory production-line of any sort. So you're not going to be able to find finished product that's plug-n-play unless you buy someone else's custom work. In which case, be careful and inspect everything extremely closely, especially aim of light.
Thanks for that. Yea, that's the conclusion that I'd pretty well come to. I've ordered a new headlight so that if (or, more likely when) I fu** it up, I don't mess up my only headlight.
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Old May 29th, 2018, 05:21 PM   #146
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Do what the original DIY did... make a mounting bracket out of ABS and swap the aiming hardware off the reflector onto the plate. Lemme search a bit and see if I can find it.

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Old May 29th, 2018, 05:23 PM   #147
simo26246
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Do what the original DIY did... make a mounting bracket out of ABS and swap the aiming hardware off the reflector onto the plate. Lemme search a bit and see if I can find it.

Don't buy BKmoto, it's crap quality
Yea, I found some other guides online that suggested other products - have bought some decent ones and was going to print myself a mounting bracket. Thanks for confirming that's the way to go!
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Old May 29th, 2018, 05:32 PM   #148
Momaru
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And for those that want the opposite of plug & play, a project, here's a dump of the original DIY plus my comments on wiring and changes I made when I went through the process.
This will require going the extra mile to build your own mounting plate (skip the reflector completely) like the OP and I did, perhaps also doing your own wiring harness.
I apologize for wonky formatting, but the copy I have was in a series of .mht files, which the file server doesn't seem to like. So I've "printed" to PDF and combined them all into one in landscape to give the biggest image sizes I could think of easily/offhand.

For what it's worth, my retrofit is still happy 7 yrs and 20,000mi later (not a fraction as much riding as I should've done).
I did have to replace the mounting plate because it started to warp from getting a little too hot on all-day rides in 100+ weather. If you can source it, I'd strongly recommend polycarbonate/lexan instead of PVC/ABS (more temp-resistant)

The headlight does bounce a little, but no worse than the stock did, given the whole assembly is floating from fairing instead of being frame-mounted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simo26246 View Post
Thanks for that. Yea, that's the conclusion that I'd pretty well come to. I've ordered a new headlight so that if (or, more likely when) I fu** it up, I don't mess up my only headlight.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf DIY HID retrofit by CThunder-blue.pdf (6.20 MB, 7 views)
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