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Old November 2nd, 2021, 02:59 PM   #1
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Trouble with Fuel Mixture Screws

Hello! I'm back from the dead on this fine site.

Okay, so, I've been outta the riding game for a little while, now. I used to ride constantly, but it slowly died-out after I got hit some while back. I was fine, but I just lost the desire to ride for whatever reason! It was kinda weird! But, I'm wanting a bigger bike, so I'm trying to sell my kick-ass lil' Ninja I've got. Obviously, I'm prepping it in order to be sold.

Here's where the issue comes in: The bike is, now, a bitch to start and it bogs, hangs, all that. It ran flawlessly about two months ago! But, I've since touched it. I've given the bike a bath, cleaned the carbs spotless, used Sea Foam, put in clean gas, etc. So, it is *NOT* dirty carbs. I've also changed the spark-plugs. The battery is fully-charged, as well.

I've narrowed it down to the issue being the fuel mixture screws. Let me run you through my specs on my carbs, because they've been modded.

Specs:

- 38/ 110 jets
- 3 shims on each needle
- K&N oval air-filter
- K&N mini for gearbox

Since that's out of the way, let me cover a bit more. I'm hoping someone could help me!

If I manage to fire the bike up with the screws set to the standard 2-1/2 turns, it'll bog when you give it gas. If you get past the little spot that bogs, like ripping the throttle, it'll hang real bad. The carbs/ engine block also sputter exhaust from one of the manifolds (right-hand manifold). The rubber tubes are completely intact, also.

I managed to get it running just enough to force it up the road earlier today, before messing with the fuel mixture screws. I had to rip the throttle to keep it from stalling in 1st. Once the RPMs were high-enough, it was pulling strong. Kicked into 2nd, still fine. Kicked into 3rd to be ready to just cruise after a turn onto the main road, and I immediately felt it dying. It felt wimpy and eventually just bogged-out, then stalled/ died. I thought the float needles might've been getting stuck, but they have no problem moving about!

Moving to this past hour:

I screwed both screws in fully, then backed them out 3 whole turns. Now, it doesn't even wanna start. If I give it gas when I turn the engine over w/ full choke, it just makes the typical bogging noise. I knew it wouldn't be the fix, but I just wanted to try it out and see how close I'm getting. I've given it a break for today. I *hate* tuning the fuel mixture screws. It's had me beat working on it.

I appreciate any and all help I can get!

Thanks. ฅ(^・ω・^ฅ)
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Old November 2nd, 2021, 04:08 PM   #2
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Almost certainly your carburetors need a thorough cleaning. I know you said they're clean.

By the way, Seafoam does next to nothing. In my experience, only additives with PEA actually do much, but even they can't clean a dirty carb.
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Old November 2nd, 2021, 04:09 PM   #3
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Did you completely disassemble carbs down to every last nut, bolt and individual components?

Did you scrub out all hidden secret petrol passages in carb body with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner? BTW - seafoam is useless

Did you poke out all bleed-holes in jets, emulsion tubes, carb-venturi with soft copper wire?

Did you soak everything in ultrasonic cleaner for days on end in radioactive solvents?

Did you micro soda-blast everything @10000psi?


Hate to break it to you, but if you didn't do all that, carbs aren't factory-fresh clean. Clue is tightening and loosening pilot-screws temporarily fixes things. What's happening is sharp tip of screw pierces and squeezes against clog in bleed-hole in carb-venturi. Then when you loosen-screw, this opens channel for petrol to flow and bike runs. But, more goo and dried petrol from further down ends up flowing into circuits and clogs it up again. You'll need to do complete carb restoration, not just cursory cleaning.


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Old November 2nd, 2021, 04:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Did you completely disassemble carbs down to every last nut, bolt and individual components?

Did you scrub out all hidden secret petrol passages in carb body with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner? BTW - seafoam is useless

Did you poke out all bleed-holes in jets, emulsion tubes, carb-venturi with soft copper wire?

Did you soak everything in ultrasonic cleaner for days on end in radioactive solvents?

Did you micro soda-blast everything @10000psi?


Hate to break it to you, but if you didn't do all that, carbs aren't factory-fresh clean. Clue is tightening and loosening pilot-screws temporarily fixes things. What's happening is sharp tip of screw pierces and squeezes against clog in bleed-hole in carb-venturi. Then when you loosen-screw, this opens channel for petrol to flow and bike runs. But, more goo and dried petrol from further down ends up flowing into circuits and clogs it up again. You'll need to do complete carb restoration, not just cursory cleaning.




I've done everything but the ultrasonic cleaner and soda-blast. I assure you I've cleaned the living Hell out of those carbs. I've used copper wire for the holes, carb cleaner, all that junk. I took apart everything that I could. Like I said, I'm very sure it's gotta do with the mixture screws. I don't flake on the carbs when I clean them, because I hate having to rip them back out to clean them all over again. They look spotless! Everything is open!

I just think my tuning is whacked-out. The butterflies are synched. It's gotta be the screws.
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Old November 2nd, 2021, 04:21 PM   #5
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Almost certainly your carburetors need a thorough cleaning. I know you said they're clean.

By the way, Seafoam does next to nothing. In my experience, only additives with PEA actually do much, but even they can't clean a dirty carb.

I dunno, man! I've laid the smackdown on those carbs! And, I know that Sea Foam is more for stabilizing and junk like that. But, it's saved me a few times. And, it's cheap, so I figured I'd try it. I really just think my tuning is off with the FM screws. I'll have to play with it more tomorrow.
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Old November 2nd, 2021, 04:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
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And, I know that Sea Foam is more for stabilizing and junk like that.
According to the MSDS, Seafoam is just a hydrocarbon (naptha maybe) with some isopropyl alcohol in it. That won't stabilize or clean or anything else.

STA-BIL is good for preserving fuel. Techron is a decent fuel system cleaner, but limited in what it can do if a carb needs cleaning.

I'll let Ducatiman comment on your theory of the idle mixture screws being to blame. My money is on some passages that you missed, so they're still clogged.
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Old November 2nd, 2021, 04:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
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According to the MSDS, Seafoam is just a hydrocarbon (naptha maybe) with some isopropyl alcohol in it. That won't stabilize or clean or anything else.

STA-BIL is good for preserving fuel. Techron is a decent fuel system cleaner, but limited in what it can do if a carb needs cleaning.

I'll let Ducatiman comment on your theory of the idle mixture screws being to blame. My money is on some passages that you missed, so they're still clogged.

We shall see!
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 01:18 AM   #8
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did you replace all rubbers?

- fuel-rail o-rings
- float valves
- float bowl seals
- pilot screw O-rings

Look down hole when you've got pilots removed to make sure there's no remnants of previous washers & O-rings in there. Make sure you get order of O-ring, washer, spring correct. Insert everything aimed up so everything stays put on pilot screw.

These are static adjustments. Whatever you set them to, it stays and bike behavior doesn't change. Fact that your bike's bike's behavior changes on exact same settings means you've got chunks of debris that's breaking free and clogging holes in carb passages.

Pilots screws also only affect transition from idle to 15-20% throttle up to about 3000 rpms, after that fueling is controlled by needles and mains. Did you poke out all lateral bleed holes in emulsion tubes? Make sure you re-installed needle jets/collars with taper in correct direction?

Also go back to bone stock factory specs. It's already super-rich from factory anyway and only reason people can report better running with larger jetting is that it makes up for dirty and clogged carbs.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 06:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
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did you replace all rubbers?

- fuel-rail o-rings
- float valves
- float bowl seals
- pilot screw O-rings

Look down hole when you've got pilots removed to make sure there's no remnants of previous washers & O-rings in there. Make sure you get order of O-ring, washer, spring correct. Insert everything aimed up so everything stays put on pilot screw.

These are static adjustments. Whatever you set them to, it stays and bike behavior doesn't change. Fact that your bike's bike's behavior changes on exact same settings means you've got chunks of debris that's breaking free and clogging holes in carb passages.

Pilots screws also only affect transition from idle to 15-20% throttle up to about 3000 rpms, after that fueling is controlled by needles and mains. Did you poke out all lateral bleed holes in emulsion tubes? Make sure you re-installed needle jets/collars with taper in correct direction?

Also go back to bone stock factory specs. It's already super-rich from factory anyway and only reason people can report better running with larger jetting is that it makes up for dirty and clogged carbs.

I went ahead and ordered a cheap little carb rebuild kit on eBay for the Ninja. I had to order a super-stubby flat-head, also. So, I'm gonna wait for those things to arrive, then slap it all together and see what's what. I'll set the FM screws to 2-1/2 turns, also. Today, though, I'm gonna rip the carbs apart all over again and junk the real worn-out parts, then leave it sitting until the kit comes.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 06:17 AM   #10
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Just don't use any jets from the kit!
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 07:56 AM   #11
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Just don't use any jets from the kit!
^THIS!!! If you have non-OEM jets in it already - throw them away.

I would add - I think your jetting is too rich overall. The adjustments of the Idle Mixture screws are only going to significantly affect the mixture at idle, and the transition past. If significantly rich, an engine will stumble, chug, and fail to accelerate.

We ran a similar set-up with 108 Mains and 1 shim, and it ran great using ethanol-free 87. It wasn't lean.

Also check for a vacuum leak or sticky slides if the RPMs are hanging. Make sure the rubber carb diaphragms are in good condition.

Confirm that the Pilot Jets are completely clear, as are the cross-drilled holes in the Pilot jet and "Holder" shown in post #4.

Use only OEM Kehin jets - not even the DynoJet ones (with different numbering).

No matter what you do, you are going to get some hesitation if you whack the throttle open with CV carbs - and it's going to get worse with pod filters.

Think of your carb tuning in terms of throttle opening - closed, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, etc. That helps you isolate the circuit that needs adjustment.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 07:59 AM   #12
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Just don't use any jets from the kit!
Way ahead of you, buddy! Wasn't planning on it!
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 08:13 AM   #13
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Way ahead of you, buddy! Wasn't planning on it!
I wouldn't say that quite yet...
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 08:17 AM   #14
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^THIS!!! If you have non-OEM jets in it already - throw them away.

I would add - I think your jetting is too rich overall. The adjustments of the Idle Mixture screws are only going to significantly affect the mixture at idle, and the transition past. If significantly rich, an engine will stumble, chug, and fail to accelerate.

We ran a similar set-up with 108 Mains and 1 shim, and it ran great using ethanol-free 87. It wasn't lean.

Also check for a vacuum leak or sticky slides if the RPMs are hanging. Make sure the rubber carb diaphragms are in good condition.

Confirm that the Pilot Jets are completely clear, as are the cross-drilled holes in the Pilot jet and "Holder" shown in post #4.

Use only OEM Kehin jets - not even the DynoJet ones (with different numbering).

No matter what you do, you are going to get some hesitation if you whack the throttle open with CV carbs - and it's going to get worse with pod filters.

Think of your carb tuning in terms of throttle opening - closed, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, etc. That helps you isolate the circuit that needs adjustment.

I'll see what's up once the kit comes and I change the real old pieces. It's just weird, because the bike ran amazing just a few months ago! Zero issues! But, I let it sit for about 2 months and, now, it's a total pain! Like, maybe two years ago, I absolutely nailed it with the 38/ 110 jet ratio and never changed it since, because I had zero need to! That's why I'm so-damn-confused! No matter the weather temp, it always fired right up and had zero problems!
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 08:49 AM   #15
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It's not unusual that being parked for two months clogs the carburetors. A friend had it happen to his newgen 250 with a one month park.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 11:26 AM   #16
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My race-bike sits for about 3-months without use over winter. In heated garage. More than once, I forgot to drain float-bowls beforehand and carbs end up needing complete restoration. First time, I missed 1st race of season as bike ran for 1-lap and died. No amount of spraying with carb-cleaner spray in pits was able to revive it. Next season, I sent them off to ducatiman to be sure they're fully functional.


Check out these seals. They've upgraded materials to viton and fluoroelastomers to better deal with modern ethanol petrol:

https://www.litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Kawa...1986-2012.html
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 12:55 PM   #17
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^ though the above kit will not prevent circuit/jet varnishing. I've currently got that set here as an upgrade/option within my service.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 06:33 PM   #18
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Okay, so, I had someone come by and check out the bike. They had nothing but positive things to say and they're *very* interested in it. They want me to call them back as soon as I get everything running. I told them I had a super-stubby coming tomorrow and a carb kit coming sometime this week or on Monday. They had a fat wad of cash and everything, so he's serious.

He wanted me to slap the carbs together before he came, which I did so. Man, I'm telling you, that system is *spotless*. *Everything* has flow through it. Also, the intake manifold does not burp, spit exhaust anymore. One of the rubber tubes weren't tightened-down completely. But, I dialed the FM screws out 2-1/2 turns and it ran. I had to choke it and bump the idle screw up some, so it would idle around 1,500 when the choke was off. It revs and everything just fine. But, when I kick it in first and give it gas, it bogs and dies. I even shown the dude, too.

I'd love some more input. My plan is to use the stubby to tune the FM screws some tomorrow and see if that does it. If it doesn't, I'm gonna mess with the jet sizes and set the screws back to 2-1/2 turns, then go from there. Does that sound reasonable to you guys? Once again, I have a 38/ 110 jet ratio w/ 3 shims on each needle. And, yet again, the bike ran killer about two months back! I definitely think the weather has something to do with it, because it's gotten colder. I'm going to check the float height tomorrow, too.

I've been looking all over and there are a lot of videos about the same issue I'm having, and there definitely are other things that could be going on carb-wise if the carbs are clean, which mine are. It's just a matter or figuring it out.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 09:02 PM   #19
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While you're waiting for parts, remove all washers from needles. Set mixture screws to factory settings. Bike will run much, much better.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=300693
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36301

There's absolutely zero reason to change carbs from factory settings. It ran perfectly fine fresh off showroom floor. It will run like that again when carbs are restored to factory-fresh clean with stock settings.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 05:58 AM   #20
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When I got my '07 a few years ago, it had a stumbling, burbling low-midrange, right around cruise throttle. I shimmed the needles 1/2mm and that cured the problem. Then when Ducatiman rebuilt the carbs he removed the shims and the engine ran much better all around.

The shims fixed the lean midrange. Cleaning and restoration cured the need for shims.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 06:18 AM   #21
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While you're waiting for parts, remove all washers from needles. Set mixture screws to factory settings. Bike will run much, much better.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=300693
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36301

There's absolutely zero reason to change carbs from factory settings. It ran perfectly fine fresh off showroom floor. It will run like that again when carbs are restored to factory-fresh clean with stock settings.

Even though I have different jets and a pod filter mod? I have the FM screws set to factory right now and it ran last night, but still died when I tried going in first. It pulls, but bogs and dies.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 07:10 AM   #22
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Why the pod filters? Or were they on when you got the bike? They are a pain to tune around on most bikes but magnified on these 250s.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 08:20 AM   #23
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Even though I have different jets and a pod filter mod? I have the FM screws set to factory right now and it ran last night, but still died when I tried going in first. It pulls, but bogs and dies.
yes, put as much back to stock as possible. Pods don't do anything to improve flow, so no jetting changes needed. Even if you had mods that improves flow, you still need to downsize jets due to super rich factory mixtures.

My bike has been dyno-tuned with full Tyga exhaust (which improves flow way more than pod filters). It's got 22% more flow than stock for 22% more power. And it STILL needed to have mains decreased by 2 sizes. And it's still rich.

This whole idea of increasing jet sizes was started by people with dirty clogged carbs who didn't or couldn't get them clean. So they compensated by putting bigger jets in. But effects are only temporary, as clogs will continue to increase.

Easiest and fastest way to restore functionality is to restore everything back to stock. Without having stock sized jets to install, first thing you can do is remove those shim washers. Don't even have to remove carbs to do that and you'll be amazed at difference in improved behavior.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 08:24 AM   #24
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next step is to put stock airbox back in. Do search here for "pod filters" and you'll find every single case is people having driveabiliy problems, stumbling, dying engine. When they put everything back to stock, magically bike runs just like stock bike off showroom floor.

Millions of racers have used Ninja 250s on track for past 33-years. Racers are cheating bastards who will do anything and everything to gain an advantage. And they know what works and what doesn't through tonnes of trial & error of millions. And they only do what works. Fact that not a single racer uses pod filters (even though they are allowed by rules) shows that pod filters just don't work.

When I had my bike dyno-tuned, we tried pods, we tried no filters at all. Not a bit of sifference! If the fans were aimed wrong at an angle, we actually LOST power with pods! Just shows that factory airbox and filter is not restrictive to begin with. Airbox and filter is same size as on my CBR600RR, a bike with 5x airflow and 5x the power. So airbox is definitely not a restriction on 250. The only time you have restriction is when you've got old dirty filter.

Stop wasting your time fiddling with stuff that doesn't make difference. The sooner you restore bike back to all stock condition with stock airbox and carb-jetting, the quicker you'll have well-running bike like brand new one off showroom floor. Yours ran that way at one point, then stuff changed. Undo changes from showroom stock condition and it'll run like brand new again.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 08:32 AM   #25
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Returning everything back to stock would be a giant pain for me. So, that's the very, very last resort. I just finished fiddling with the bike. I'll fill you guys in and see if you can help me out. Like I said, stock is my very, *VERY* last resort. The buyer *LOVES* how I have this bike looking.

I fixed the float height. They were a little off. But, now, I get a drip from the float bowls. The seals are brand-spanking-new. So, I guess I've gotta fix the floats again. I set the FM screws to 2 turns, and that fixed the drip just a bit.

Mid and high-range response is solid.

When it drops down to about 3-1k, it starts bogging and wanting to die. The exhaust is pretty strong, so it's rich there.

What can I do to fix it? I'm hoping I narrowed it down enough for you guys to have a better understanding.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 08:58 AM   #26
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Stop wasting your time fiddling with stuff that doesn't make difference.
You can say it, but it can only be learned once the time has been wasted
Bodhi, it sounds like your customer wants form over function. They are asking you to provide something that is outside of the physical capabilities of this machine.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 09:06 AM   #27
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You can say it, but it can only be learned once the time has been wasted
Bodhi, it sounds like your customer wants form over function. They are asking you to provide something that is outside of the physical capabilities of this machine.
If they're cool with the stock air-box going back in, then, Hell, it's going back in! I won't care what he does with it once everything is traded and I got the cash, as awesome as the bike is!
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Old November 4th, 2021, 09:46 AM   #28
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I fixed the float height. They were a little off. But, now, I get a drip from the float bowls. The seals are brand-spanking-new. So, I guess I've gotta fix the floats again. I set the FM screws to 2 turns, and that fixed the drip just a bit.

Mid and high-range response is solid.

When it drops down to about 3-1k, it starts bogging and wanting to die. The exhaust is pretty strong, so it's rich there.

What can I do to fix it? I'm hoping I narrowed it down enough for you guys to have a better understanding.
Your float valves are leaking, and adjusting the idle mixture screws fixed it a bit? Are you listening to yourself?

As I said early in this thread, your carbs need a proper and thorough cleaning. Something in the idle-midrange circuits is not working properly. Returning everything to stock is also going to be necessary if you want it to run right.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 09:51 AM   #29
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Your float valves are leaking, and adjusting the idle mixture screws fixed it a bit? Are you listening to yourself?

As I said early in this thread, your carbs need a proper and thorough cleaning. Something in the idle-midrange circuits is not working properly. Returning everything to stock is also going to be necessary if you want it to run right.

Dude, I know it sounds weird, but I'm just telling you what I saw. It went from a steady stream to a drip when I turned the screws in. Dunno what else to say about that. Believe it or not, I guess! Ha!
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Old November 4th, 2021, 09:58 AM   #30
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Dude, I know it sounds weird, but I'm just telling you what I saw. It went from a steady stream to a drip when I turned the screws in. Dunno what else to say about that. Believe it or not, I guess! Ha!
That's like saying there was a total solar eclipse and it got dark outside. Then you went out in your yard and did a Hula dance and it got light again, so doing the dance ended the eclipse.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 10:01 AM   #31
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That's like saying there was a total solar eclipse and it got dark outside. Then you went out in your yard and did a Hula dance and it got light again, so doing the dance ended the eclipse.
I reckon that's what I did, then!
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Old November 5th, 2021, 09:38 AM   #32
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Returning everything back to stock would be a giant pain for me. So, that's the very, very last resort. I just finished fiddling with the bike. I'll fill you guys in and see if you can help me out. Like I said, stock is my very, *VERY* last resort. The buyer *LOVES* how I have this bike looking.

I fixed the float height. They were a little off. But, now, I get a drip from the float bowls. The seals are brand-spanking-new. So, I guess I've gotta fix the floats again. I set the FM screws to 2 turns, and that fixed the drip just a bit.

Mid and high-range response is solid.

When it drops down to about 3-1k, it starts bogging and wanting to die. The exhaust is pretty strong, so it's rich there.

What can I do to fix it? I'm hoping I narrowed it down enough for you guys to have a better understanding.
You don't have to put airbox back in, but at least put carbs back to stock so it can run properly.

You've got multiple problems that causes multiple issues, so it's not easy to make cause and effect correlations. Me flipping light-switch DID NOT cause great NY blackout of 1972, but it sure seemed like it because I hit the switch and entire city went black!!!

Your float-bowl seals are fine, so is float-level. Use some UV dye in petrol to pinpoint source of leak. One clue is changing pilot-screws settings changed leak. I suspect something's wrong with your pilot-screw O-rings, washers and springs or their seating area. This has been problem for you all along, with inconsistent behavior with pilot-screw settings. Remove all screws, get magnifying glass with strong light and look down hole! I bet there's remnants of previous O-rings and other gunk that's causing new O-rings to not seal. Scrub out that passage from end-to-end with test-tube brushes. Poke out bleed hole from venturi side back towards bowl.

That and remove those shim-washers. Will fix your low-end bogging issues, too much fuel! Bike will run much, much better when carbs are back to stock settings!
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Old November 5th, 2021, 01:47 PM   #33
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You don't have to put airbox back in, but at least put carbs back to stock so it can run properly.

You've got multiple problems that causes multiple issues, so it's not easy to make cause and effect correlations. Me flipping light-switch DID NOT cause great NY blackout of 1972, but it sure seemed like it because I hit the switch and entire city went black!!!

Your float-bowl seals are fine, so is float-level. Use some UV dye in petrol to pinpoint source of leak. One clue is changing pilot-screws settings changed leak. I suspect something's wrong with your pilot-screw O-rings, washers and springs or their seating area. This has been problem for you all along, with inconsistent behavior with pilot-screw settings. Remove all screws, get magnifying glass with strong light and look down hole! I bet there's remnants of previous O-rings and other gunk that's causing new O-rings to not seal. Scrub out that passage from end-to-end with test-tube brushes. Poke out bleed hole from venturi side back towards bowl.

That and remove those shim-washers. Will fix your low-end bogging issues, too much fuel! Bike will run much, much better when carbs are back to stock settings!


I'm afraid I've already wrestled with the airbox and crammed that sucker back into the bike. I have a carb kit coming tomorrow (matches the 88-07 Ninjette model(s)). So, I'm waiting on that to come. When it does, I'm gonna fix the carbs back to stock and see how it goes. The buyer is 100% fine with the stock airbox going back in. If it leaks like that again, though, *after* I swap the old pieces out -- that's gonna be a different beast.

I've been through the wringer with carb tuning once before, when I first did the air-filter mod. Surprisingly, it didn't take me that long to figure out. But, it's just time for me to move on from messing with the ol' thing. I'm just gonna fix it up for the buyer, sell it, and move onto a bigger bike. I've got a few 600s and 650s I'm eyeballing.
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Old November 8th, 2021, 05:36 PM   #34
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Yeah, stock is best. Even one shim is too many and will mess up smooth running.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...45#post1283845


Leaking from pilot screws is extremely rare. Really should take closer look at it and figure out what caused leak to fix it. Otherwise it's gonna continue leaking. Wonder what changed between earlier non-leaking state to current leaky condition?

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 8th, 2021 at 09:08 PM.
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