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Old April 27th, 2012, 03:01 AM   #1
rich3389
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Too rich or too lean

On my 96 Ninja the engine hesitates/surges and doesnt even have enough power to keep 45+ mph once warmed up. Engine seems to run great until warmed up but after a few minutes and more than 50% throttle this problems occurs. Idles great cold and hot.
Carbs were just cleaned/rebuild. Do I need to shim the needle or is it already running to rich?
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:08 AM   #2
davenay67
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When warmed up, does it run better with the choke 'on or 'off'..??

Pull the plugs and inspect the electreode area; black is rich, white is lean, you want a nice tan colour.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:25 AM   #3
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http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Lean_or_Rich

Sounds like a rich problem. Pull the air filter and see if it gets better.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:59 AM   #4
rich3389
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Under load it runs better with the choke when warmed. But it idles better with no choke warmed.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:01 AM   #5
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Personally, I would suspect the main jets in the carbs.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 01:44 PM   #6
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I agree with most everybody else on this. Sounds like its too rich.

Make sure your main needles are fitting the seats properly and that the seats are in right side up. The needle seats are just under the main jet. I'm not sure if they will even go in upside down, but its something to check. Otherwise, its possible that they are just worn out.

You can try cranking your mixture screws all the way in and see if that has an effect, but if they do, its likely to only affect the idle.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 01:47 PM   #7
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BTW, when you rebuilt the carb, did you remove the diaphragms and protect them from solvents, gas and oil? Solvents destroy them. I'm not sure if a broken one will produce your symptoms or not, but its not going to run right if they are damaged.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 04:53 PM   #8
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pause for a moment before we continue assuming something is wrong:

What's your intake setup?
What's your exhaust setup?
What is your jetting looking like? (main jet size, needle height, pilot jet size etc)
Are you sure you got everything back together correctly after your cleaning/rebuild?
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Old April 27th, 2012, 05:31 PM   #9
rich3389
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OK the bike has a slip on exhaust(F1 brand?) and a KN filter...I took the carbs apart and found that one of the diaphragms was torn a bit..
I am working on a fix now for that and I am going to shim the jets with 2 washers.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 05:33 PM   #10
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K&N airbox filter? or K&N pod filter that replaces the airbox?
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Old April 27th, 2012, 05:34 PM   #11
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K&N airbox filter? or K&N pod filter that replaces the airbox?
Its a drop in filter, uses the factory airbox.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 06:04 PM   #12
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The intake, carbs, headers and exhaust are so precisely tuned on a Ninja that any tinkering with the design can mess things up. If you change the mufflers to a single muffler, or airbox to pods, then that generally means rejetting the carbs. If someone changed any of that stuff, and didn't rejet the carbs, it might cause the bike's performance to suffer in a manner similar to what you described.

So if you have a stock bike, it should have two mufflers, an airbox and an oil sponge air filter. Based on what you have said so far, it sounds like this is the case.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 06:33 PM   #13
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Oops, looks like I missed a few posts there.

Officially, the only cure for a torn diaphragm is to buy a new one ($100 ea). But I'm wondering if a little rubber cement will be good enough.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #14
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There's a DIY around here by theduck about using a tire patch kit to fix them. Search around a little bit. It's worth a $5 patch kit to fix a $112 part.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 03:19 AM   #15
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I think I just saw a pair on ebay. Make sure you measure like this website says though http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=10006158529
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:31 AM   #16
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Do they come apart from the plastic thing? I didn't think they would without a fight.

Another option to consider is silicone RTV. I have no idea if that will work, but if the rubber cement or patches don't work, then maybe that.

I'm wondering what other bikes use this same diaphragm. Maybe other bikes sell the same thing cheaper.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 07:26 AM   #17
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OK I got it running almost perfectly now, I guess the ripped diaphragm was the problem.
The bike only has a slight hesitation/stutter at cruising speeds between 7-8k rpms.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 02:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
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OK I got it running almost perfectly now, I guess the ripped diaphragm was the problem.
The bike only has a slight hesitation/stutter at cruising speeds between 7-8k rpms.
What was the diaphragm repair method that worked for you?
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Old April 28th, 2012, 02:35 PM   #19
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What was the diaphragm repair method that worked for you?
I used rubber cement from a tire repair kit.
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Old May 1st, 2012, 10:32 AM   #20
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I've been having the exact same problem. Slightly torn diaphragm at the edge. Bike runs great until a half hour into the ride, then sputters and stalls. K&N filter, airbox delete, stock exhaust, 107.5 main, 6 shims. If that tire patch kit does the trick, you'll have made me a very happy man. Lol
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