Finish valve adjustment now having issues

[Spencerrides]

I just finish doing a valve adjustment and I feel good about the job I did but I having a few issues. I dont think its major but I dont know how to fix it.

Here are the issues

when I switch the bike on the red oil light no longer comes on.

the bike is heating up really quickly when running. I did take off the radiator while doing a valve adjustment alot of coolant leaked out. I collected some of it but did know if or how I put it back in the motorcycle.

while doing the valve adjustment I did suck some of the oil out to see and adjust one of the screws dont know if this could of effected something.

The bike does run when I put it together.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Spencerrides

........Here are the issues

when I switch the bike on the red oil light no longer comes on.

the bike is heating up really quickly when running.......

It is possible that the wire going to the oil pressure sensor/switch located at the top-front-left corner of the crankcase has been inadvertently disconnected.



You may have some air trapped in the cooling circuit and need to purge it out:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

[Spencerrides]

Hey When i was popping off the zip tie that is connected to the oil pressure sensor i briefly
put it on fire for maybe 2-3 seconds by accident trying to melt the zip tie, could this be why its not working? It doesn't seem like much/any damage was done.

What else could it be because it seems like everything is connected properly, i'm going to recheck it though. @Triple Jim @Motofool

[Spencerrides]

The coolant is working find now after I purged it. But the oil sensor isn't. Is it the cord that's damage or is it something else.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Spencerrides

The coolant is working find now after I purged it. But the oil sensor isn't. Is it the cord that's damage or is it something else.

We have had some progress then

The oil pressure switch is normally closed.
When the pressure of oil reaches around 14 psi, it pushes the switch to open the circuit of the bulb by disconnecting it from ground.

A length of wire connected to ground can indicate the point of faulty connection.
With the ignition switch on and the engine off, touch the closer point to the bulb with that wire and have somebody see if the bulb lights up.
If so, keep touching points downstream towards the oil pressure switch.
The problem (open circuit) should be between the points of light and no light.

[Spencerrides]

Originally Posted by Motofool

We have had some progress then

The oil pressure switch is normally closed.
When the pressure of oil reaches around 14 psi, it pushes the switch to open the circuit of the bulb by disconnecting it from ground.

A length of wire connected to ground can indicate the point of faulty connection.
With the ignition switch on and the engine off, touch the closer point to the bulb with that wire and have somebody see if the bulb lights up.
If so, keep touching points downstream towards the oil pressure switch.
The problem (open circuit) should be between the points of light and no light.

I cut a electric cord so on both sides copper was showing then connected it to the female part of the sensor and the negative part of my battery and got absolutely nothing.

[Triple Jim]

If I'm understanding you correctly, that sounds like you just grounded something that was already grounded. Grounding the wire that's connected to the sensor should make the light come on, since grounding that wire completes the circuit from 12v, through the light, and to ground.

But I'm not sure I know what you mean by the female part of the sensor.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I'm not sure I know what you mean by the female part of the sensor.

@JohnnyBravo, @Snake, @Koala; explain this to him

[JohnnyBravo]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

@JohnnyBravo, @Snake, @Koala; explain this to him

I've seen pictures of female parts... But they aren't really my area of expertise


Helpful... On topic starts here @Triple Jim
The male part has something poking out... Like the male genitallia
The female part is the one the male part pokes into... Like the female genitallia
When speaking mechanically of course

[Triple Jim]

Mine has a 1/8" male pipe thread for the oil pressure, and a small screw terminal on top, so yes, explain what the female part is please. Maybe the small female threaded hole of the screw terminal?

[JohnnyBravo]

From the picture it would be 26011... I'd imagine just ran a jumper wire to see if his wire was still functional; I've been wrong before though / id hope he is referring to the wire, if he is testing the sensor i imagine he is going about it the wrong way

If he is talking about the sensor... You would be correct saying the screw hole

[Triple Jim]

26011 is a rubber boot. Yes, I agree... which is what I said above, ground the wire attached to the sensor and the light should come on.

The assembly is not what I'm used to. I expected to pull the rubber boot and have a connector snap off the sensor under it, but the wire has a terminal that's attached by tightening the terminal screw on the sensor. So to check to see if the wire is connected, you have to carefully slide the rubber boot back while feeding more wire into it. Eventually you get it far enough up the wire that you can see the screw connection.

[JohnnyBravo]

You are correct sir... Just like a spark plug wire... The female has the boot

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo

You are correct sir... Just like a spark plug wire... The female has the boot

Except with a spark plug wire, you can just plug it back on the spark plug. Not in this case.

[JohnnyBravo]

thread jack

You already won Jim

[Triple Jim]

Johnny, I really wasn't trying to be a smart-ass (this time). When I saw that there was a question about the sensor connection, I took the rubber book off mine and found that in doing so, I had yanked the brass terminal on the wire out of the screw connection on the sensor. Now I wonder if Spencer's problem is that his terminal has come apart, but he can't tell because it's hidden in the rubber boot.

[JohnnyBravo]

was helpful!

Sometimes gettin to the meat of things takes a bit of dentistry

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Spencerrides

I cut a electric cord so on both sides copper was showing then connected it to the female part of the sensor and the negative part of my battery and got absolutely nothing.

Then, electricity is not getting to that point, as it should.
Keep testing going up along/through the cable and connectors.

[Snake]

Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo

I've seen pictures of female parts... But they aren't really my area of expertise


Helpful... On topic starts here @Triple Jim
The male part has something poking out... Like the male genitallia
The female part is the one the male part pokes into... Like the female genitallia
When speaking mechanically of course

Perfect explanation. To put it in simpler terms: The male part gives and the female part receives.

[SLOWn60]

Rubbers, female boots, screw holes, zip ties and a heat wrench on a wire! This thread has everything!

...ok; I'll step away from the keyboard now!

[Spencerrides]

Here I made a quick video showing the issue

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Triple Jim]

For the test, you need to connect your ground wire to some bare metal on the bike's frame, or the negative terminal of the bike's battery. Connecting it to a clutch cable that's not connected to the bike frame does nothing.

The wire coming from the oil pressure sensor needs to be attached to the top of the sensor at the sensor's screw terminal. This is under the rubber boot on top of the sensor (see my posts above). It's possible that the wire's terminal came out from under the screw. Of course it could also be that your bulb is burned out as you suggested, etc..

[Spencerrides]

Okay excuse my ignorance in this.

What I got from what you said is to connect the wire that is not connected to the engine(the ground)to another wire and connect it to the the battery's negative terminal. And take the top of the oil pressure wire and connect it to the screw on top of it? Correct ? If so the light still doesn't turn on.

[Triple Jim]

I was suggesting two different things:

1. To test the oil light circuit minus the sensor itself, you need the ignition on, and the wire coming from the instrument cluster grounded to something like the motorcycle frame or the battery negative terminal.

2. If the light comes on in "1", then the sensor or its wire has a problem. The problem could be a bad connection of the wire to the screw terminal on top of the sensor, or the problem could be something else.

[Spencerrides]

Hey your in North Carolina I'm in South Carolina want to come meet me lol jk.
I just did it and got nothing happen, I connected my wire to the wire that's not connected to the engine and connected the other side to the battery's negative terminal.

Hell Im thinking about leaving it as is.
I can't believe I broke something I was as gentle as I could be.


The bulb was working find before I did the valve adjustment should I replace it?

[Triple Jim]

It's easy enough to check and/or change the bulb. Also, there isn't much wiring between your test point and the bulb, so if you follow it up, you should eventually find the problem, as Motofool was saying.

I really like a low oil pressure idiot light. If something causes the oil level in my engine to get low, I'll know it before I ruin the engine.

[Spencerrides]

Hey I got out the oil pressure light how do I check to see if it works

[Triple Jim]

You can put 12v on its two contacts and see if it lights up, or you can put an ohm meter across its two contacts and see what the reading is. Or you can swap it with a known working bulb.

[Spencerrides]

@Triple Jim hey I took the supposedly bad bulb and put it in a working socket and it worked so its not the bulb. I guess I could buy a replacement wire if thats possible?

[Triple Jim]

Wire's cheap, but you should find where the problem is. Follow the wire from the bulb down toward the oil pressure sensor and examine it carefully. Most likely a connector is unplugged, or the wire is broken, requiring a little solder and a small piece of shrink tubing, or something else simple and easy to fix.

[Koala]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

Rubbers, female boots, screw holes, zip ties and a heat wrench on a wire! This thread has everything!

...ok; I'll step away from the keyboard now!

sorry I showed up late, sounds like a party to me

[InvisiBill]

I think you managed to properly test it, but I'm not sure due to your wording.

If you disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor, and run a test wire from ground (like the negative battery post) to the wire where the sensor normally connects, the light should come on. You're simply substituting a known-good ground in place of the sensor.

If the light comes on, the circuit is working, so the problem is with the sensor itself. If the light doesn't come on, then there's a problem in the circuit.

If you caught the wire on fire (!!!), you probably damaged the wire. You can use your ohmmeter to check for continuity of the wire between the sensor and bulb ends, since you already tested that the bulb is good.

[Spencerrides]

@InvisiBill

Unfortunately I ripped the piece that connects to the wire that's connected to the dashboard to raw copper but now I can test it.

I have raw copper from the bike's wire connected to ground wire that's connected to the bike's battery ground.

It's still not working which is weird, and I don't know how I'm going to reconnect the connector to the wire.

[Spencerrides]

Alright guys I cut off some of the wire on my bike connected to the bike side to test the oil light sensor and it still didn't work, now I'm left with two problems the connector that's connected to the wire won't reconnect. And the light sensor still isn't working after testing it from the battery's negative terminal.

I'm willing to take it to a shop and have them fix it. Anyone know how much it should cost me to get that fixed?

[Triple Jim]

Spencer, if you can find a mechanic or a knowledgeable friend who will fix the problem and let you watch how he did it, it would be great. I have no idea where Goose Creek is, but if it's near me, I'd be glad to lend you a hand.

Edit: I see one near the southeast part of NC, near the coast. Not very near here, unfortunately.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Spencer, if you can find a mechanic or a knowledgeable friend who will fix the problem and let you watch how he did it, it would be great. I have no idea where Goose Creek is, but if it's near me, I'd be glad to lend you a hand.

Edit: I see one near the southeast part of NC, near the coast. Not very near here, unfortunately.

Yup. It's just north of Charleston.

[Triple Jim]

I thought Spencer was in NC, but I'm probably wrong.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

I use a speaker wire like here its 0.2$ per meter , then a cheap copper thang like 0.1$ for battery terminal then screwed it there and it works