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Old July 25th, 2009, 10:36 AM   #1
Purspeed
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DIY: Replacing the Clutch Plates

This is a full DIY on replacing a clutch pack. The job is not difficult and virtually all of the steps are pictured here. The Ninja 250 clutch replacement for clutch problems (like clutch slipping due to worn clutch friction and metal plates) is very similar to all other motorcycle clutch replacement methods.

There are a few differences (like properly indexing the clutch pressure plate to the hub), but other than that, it should be a straightforward installation.

Your first step is drain the oil completely. Remove oil filter and oil screen. This will help remove any friction plate material that may have shredded off of the friction plates and into the oil/engine.
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf Replacing the Clutch Plates - ninjette.org.pdf (5.25 MB, 426 views)
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Old July 25th, 2009, 10:50 AM   #2
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Now you will remove the clutch cover bolts and clutch pressure plate bolts. When removing these bolts, go in a "star" pattern when removing each individual bolt.

When installing, also install and torque (tighten with torque wrench) in a star pattern. Why? Because this way, you evenly distribute the load (pressure) and you won't have to deal with any leaks.

You will need to (carefully...it's soft aluminum) clean off the old paper gasket material. Take your time and use a bronze brush. A newer bike may not require much cleaning because the gasket will come off clean. But, if not, make sure that the mating surfaces are 100% clean of gasket material. This way, when you put on a fresh gasket, tighten and torque down the clutch cover plate (in a star pattern), you will not have any leaks. Also, you will not need to use any gasket sealer, either.

After you remove the clutch cover, clutch pressure plate bolts, washers and springs, clutch pressure plate...you can remove the clutch friction discs and metal plates. Easy!
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Old July 25th, 2009, 11:28 AM   #3
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Here are a few pictures of what a worn-out friction disc looks like. Basically, you will see the friction disc material worn to the point that the diagonal marks will be close to worn off. Also, you will see friction disc 'gunk' and bits and pieces around the clutch area and on the oil screen.

The interior of the engine should be extremely clean. So, get rid of all of the gunk inside the engine by hand and throw in a fresh oil change. Ride for a few miles and throw in another fresh oil change. This will guarantee that you all of the particles are gone for optimal engine performance.

You do not have to, but I soaked the fricion discs overnight in oil so that they "swell" and absorb the oil. This will help prevent binding upon installation, as well.

The last image is of a new metal plate. You will want all of the "sharp" edges of the new metal plate pointed AWAY from the bike when installing. The "sharp" edge is difficult to see in the picture, but when you see them in person, you will notice that on one side of the disc edge, it is softer than the other side. This is due to the stamping process of manufacturing the metal plates. Why do you want the "sharp" edges pointed outward? Because, theoretically, when the pressure plate pushes on the discs, the "soft" edge will not sheer the hub (housing) edges and be smooth in actuation. Some say that as long as the "sharp" or "soft" edge run in the same direction, you are okay.

The Kawasaki manual states that the sharp edges should be pointed to the outside of the bike.

Do a full oil change with a fresh filter and gaskets. Note the clean oil screen. Be sure to clean the areas where the oil screen is housed and the oil filter area. Clean, clean, clean.

*Use only OEM friction discs and metal plates and paper gasket. Aftermarket friction discs are terrible. You can use EBC clutch springs for about 15% more pressure, but this will also give require 15% more clutch lever pull.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 11:53 AM   #4
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Here are a few more comparisons of old vs. new materials.

Now, you must begin with the friction disc, then metal disc, and then alternate until you put in the friction disc last.

So, the friction disc will be the first and the last plate. The metal discs are sandwiched in between the discs. Be sure to oil these up so they don't stick to tight to eachother upon installation.

When re-installing the pressure plate, you MUST "index" the plate. This simply means that the little round protrusion on the pressure plate must align with the indentation on the clutch hub. The pictures are below. If the clutch pressure plate is not indexed properly, the clutch will never 'grab' and you will be in neutral. You can also tell by looking at the top of the installed discs and pressure plate in that the pressure plate will be hugging the discs real tight.

*The last picture shows the tiny round protrusion on the pressure plate that aligns with the round, horse-shoe-like indentation (IMG_2084) on the clutch hub. These are positioned at 180-degrees from eachother.

FYI: Image IMG_2087 shows the pin that gets pulled away from the bike, when you ride, in order to pull apart the friction discs and shift gears smoothly.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 12:22 PM   #5
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Here is where you continue to put everything back together.

Now, you will notice that the clutch disc assembly rotates. This seems like a problem when trying to remove the clutch bolts. But, there is a simple solution. Get a screw driver and wedge it between the peg and the groove on the pressure plate. This will prevent the clutch disc assembly from rotating as you apply pressure to either remove the bolts or torque them down to spec. (It is a little tricky and kind of a balancing act, but I did it by myself. Having a friend to help you may make things a bit easier)

Take your time. Insert the bolts with love and care. Hand tighten all of the bolts first (in a star pattern). Then, grab your trusty torque wrench and begin to torque down the bolts.

Lube everything with a little oil. Don't get overzealous, just a nice thin coat is fine. If you need to clean parts before the installation, WD40 works great!

Keep all particles away from the open engine. If the job requires an extra day, then put the clutch cover back on and tighten a couple of bolts slightly to hold it in place. More importantly, this will keep moisture out of the engine. Moisture collects VERY QUICKLY overnight, so seal that clutch cover to the engine case to prevent outside moisture from creeping into the engine.

*Note the nice and clean gasket mating surface. This is what it should look like...clean. No scratches. Scratches may cause oil to leak. Don't get paranoid, just take your time and use a soft brush. Also, keep the mating surface free and clean of any oil when you install the paper gasket.

Yes, you may end up getting a little oil on the gasket, and as long as you dry it up as best as possible with paper towels, you will be fine. It won't cause a leak as long as you have clean metal-paper gasket-metal contact and you torque the clutch cover in a star-pattern to proper torque specs.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 12:36 PM   #6
NaughtyusMaximus
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Wow

Very nice pictures. I hope I never have to do this, but I'm going through the DIY because the pics look so damn good
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Old July 25th, 2009, 12:42 PM   #7
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Below are a few pictures of the gasket install along with the clutch cover plate.

The clutch cover plate has a lever that must be pointed down when you slide the clutch cover into place (see image IMG_1964). After you seat the clutch cover, hand tighten a couple of bolts and then attache the cable to the lever and now rotate it up to proper position (see images IMG_1973)...(in the image the clutch cable is not attached...however, it should be attached BEFORE you rotate it up because it is difficult to attach otherwise).

*When you rotate this lever up, this lever (on the inside of the clutch cover) will pull the pin (see above post) that, in turn, pulls the friction discs apart to shift between gears. If the lever is not pointed down upon install, the clutch cover will not mate to the engine case.

When installing the bolts to the clutch cover plate, you may get the longer and shorter clutch cover bolts mixed up. It's easy. There are only (2) shorter bolts. These two are installed immediately above and below the clutch cable lever (on the clutch cover...see pic IMG_1973).

Installation is the reverse of taking it apart, but below are a few pictures, just in case.

Clutch Cover Plate bolts' TORQUE SPECS: 87 in/lbs.

**Be extra careful with the clutch cover bolts. Hand tighten first in star-pattern. Then calibrate your torque wrench properly and in one smooth motion torque to spec/tighten until the torque wrench clicks or beeps. You do not want to strip these threads. It's soft aluminum which is easy to strip. Nice even pressure all around is what you want. Overtightening one bolt or area may result in leaks. The manual wants you to use gasket sealer. This stuff is messy and unneccesary if you have clean mating surfaces and a new factory gasket along with proper star-pattern tightening.

Quick Tip: you will need to push down the rear brake pedal with your hand in order to get the clutch cover on.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 12:49 PM   #8
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A+ DIY

a tip that i picked up from MX bikes, sometimes the clutch will not seem to be working correctly until the bike has been started and warmed up. this is especially true if you dont soak the plates long enough. put the bike in neutral start it pump the clutch lever a few times and you should be good to go. remember to turn the bike off before you check it again.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 12:59 PM   #9
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Additional Notes:

Here is a link regarding how the clutch lever functions with additional pictures that I posted and a decent description:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ghlight=clutch

Clutch Cover Plate TORQUE SPECS: 87 in/lbs.

Here is a link that I posted when I began the project and the problems that were subsequently solved:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...h+cover+torque

My clutch cable was also replaced, but KKim did a fine job of doing a clutch cable DIY. Follow KKim's article for adjusting the clutch cable (easy).

Use factory parts, folks. I purchased all my OEM parts from here:

http://cheapcycleparts.com/General.a...partmentID=280

I used Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Oil. Some suggest to only use mineral oil, but most professionals think that the Shell oil is fine.

Be sure to check the metal discs on a glass table to see if they are bent or warped. It's easy, just place the metal disc on a glass table and make sure that it sits on the table evenly all around. Some online suggest to use a flashlight and see if you can see light coming through. This is a ridiculous method, as light can penetrate the tiniest spaces.

I will now post a general article on clutch replacement. It is NOT Ninja 250 specific, so some of it does not apply to our bikes. It is for informational purposes only.

To Alex or Admin, can you stamp the images with my screen name and this website, so as to drive traffic this way and prevent copyright problems?

Thank you guys for helping me through my clutch problems and here is the long awaited Purspeed's Clutch DIY!!

Enjoy.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 01:00 PM   #10
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http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...ew_clutch.html

Clutches with lots of miles may have notches worn into the splines, which prevent the plates from engaging smoothly, or cracks between the finger webs of the outer drum. If anything significant is found replacement is the only cure. Finally, check the clutch hub nut just to make sure it hasn't loosened up on you. If it has, follow the tightening procedure detailed in your manual.


Inspection and reassembly
Because the clutch was slipping it's a given that you're going to replace the friction discs, so there's no real need to inspect them. My recommendation is to always replace the clutch springs as well, although if the spring's free length is within factory specifications you can certainly reuse them.

Visually inspect the steel plates for damage. If they're scored, galled or show signs of being overheated (they'll be blued as if put to a torch), toss them. If they look good measure the thickness and compare it to the factory dimension. If the plates are within specification they can be reused provided they're not warped. To check, lay the plate on a flat surface (a heavy piece of glass works fine) and see if it rocks or if a feeler gauge can be slid under any side. Even easier: Place two plates together and pinch them at one point. If they separate they're warped. If they don't, flip one of them over and try again. If they remain flat they're fine and can be reused.

The last step before reassembly is to remove all traces of the old gasket from both sides of the case. This can be tedious, but stay with it-the cleaner the surface the better the new gasket will seat and the less likely it'll be to start leaking down the road.

Clutch Replacement How To Steel Plate Specs
If the steel plates aren't scored or blue from overheating they can be reused provided they're still within specification.

Installing the new clutch
Clutch plates should never be installed dry; both the frictions and the steels should be given a good dousing in fresh oil beforehand. If you've got time let the friction plates soak for at least half an hour in a pan of clean oil to swell them to their working dimensions.

In most instances a friction disc will be installed first, followed by a steel plate. Before you install the first steel plate rub your finger over the teeth. When the plates are stamped the process leaves one smooth and one sharp edge. Some guys like to face all the sharp edges toward the pressure plate, claiming this gives the clutch a smoother action and prevents premature clutch-hub wear. Some point them toward the inner hub, claiming the exact same thing. I've tried it both ways and never noticed a difference, and as far as I'm concerned, so long as the sharp edges all face the same direction it doesn't matter which way they're pointed.


Once the plates have been put in, oil the throwout bearing and install it, followed by the pressure plate. If your clutch has coil springs install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and tighten them evenly, using your torque wrench for the final setting.

Wipe down the gasket surfaces of both cases with a solvent-soaked rag to remove all traces of oil. Then apply the gasket sealer according to the manufacturer's instructions and let it air-dry. Hang the gasket on the crankcase side, then slide the cover into place and screw it down. Many a good clutch has been ruined by a sticking clutch cable, so inspect yours and, if need be, replace it before you consider the job finished. Likewise if your bike uses a hydraulic clutch, now's the time to change the fluid. A new clutch will wear in over the first 500 or so miles, so don't be too concerned if the adjustment goes off slightly during that time. By that same token the bedding-in process will contaminate the oil and filter to some degree, though by how much is debatable, so my advice is to halve the recommended interval to the next oil and filter change.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 01:07 PM   #11
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Suggestion:

This DIY should be posted in both pre-08 and 08+ models since the install is virtually identical.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 02:42 PM   #12
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Hey, I was going to thank the original reply poster (with the white bike avatar) for your compliments, but someone deleted your post!

You guys are welcome. Purspeed came through, after all.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 04:45 PM   #13
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Very nice, thank you!

Roughly how many miles can we expect out of the average clutch?
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Old July 25th, 2009, 05:03 PM   #14
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Very nice, thank you!

Roughly how many miles can we expect out of the average clutch?
Depends on which bike and whether it's a wet or dry clutch, adjustment and riding style.

On the Ninja 250r, it should last the life of the engine, from what I have researched. My bike overheated, so that led the clutch to overheat and fall apart. Hence, I had to replace mine. However, some of the racer guys probably replace theirs every so often.

It's not something that most Ninjetters need to worry about. But, if they are having problems with the clutch or would like to see how to replace one out of curiosity, here's the info.
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Old July 25th, 2009, 06:18 PM   #15
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Purspeed.................you have outdone yourself! Excellent DIY
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Old July 25th, 2009, 06:24 PM   #16
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Purspeed.................you have outdone yourself! Excellent DIY
Agreed! Can you do one on the rear brake next?
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Old July 25th, 2009, 07:23 PM   #17
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nice job! gret to see you finally get it up, but I can see why it took so long!
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Old July 26th, 2009, 12:43 AM   #18
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Purspeed.................you have outdone yourself! Excellent DIY


@ Kkim...funny, I was about to do the rear-break delete DIY...you're reading my mind.

@ Noche...I told ya I'd come through. I figure, anything worth doing, is worth doing right. There was a true lack of resource info on doing the Ninja 250r clutch. Considering that the Ninja 250r is the highest selling model in Kawi history, it seems about time that we have a proper clutch DIY!

...and one that includes all of those details that are near impossible to get without lots of time and effort.
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Old July 26th, 2009, 09:23 PM   #19
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Very nice job Purspeed!!!
can you go over the "indexing" part one more time? Everything looks straight forward..except for this part.
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Old July 27th, 2009, 09:53 PM   #20
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Very nice job Purspeed!!!
can you go over the "indexing" part one more time? Everything looks straight forward..except for this part.
Personally, I like visuals, so hopefully the below pictures will help you understand how the pressure plate should be "indexed" (rotated so that it is oriented properly over the clutch hub, when the pressure plate is seated and bolted to).

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2084.jpg (85.8 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2085.jpg (101.2 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2096.jpg (88.8 KB, 170 views)
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Old July 28th, 2009, 05:11 AM   #21
randomwalk101
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thanks for the pic purspeed. So basically just matching up the indentation on the pressure plate to the indentation on the hub as pictured (indexing)....?
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Old July 28th, 2009, 11:09 PM   #22
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thanks for the pic purspeed. So basically just matching up the indentation on the pressure plate to the indentation on the hub as pictured (indexing)....?
That's correct.

By matching it up (indexing), the pressure plate will properly seat up against the friction discs and there will be no slippage.
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Old May 18th, 2010, 07:41 PM   #23
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Thank you very much. Pictures = easy. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
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Old August 15th, 2010, 10:26 AM   #24
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I'm stuck

I am doing a plate replacement on my '99 ninja 250- and your post has been very helpful. However, I am stuck at the point where I have to attach the cable to the swing arm. The cable is about a quarter inch short of the attachment on the arm and I can't figure a way to close the gap. You said to attach it before swinging the arm up, but the cable is much too short for that.

Any suggestions?
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Old August 16th, 2010, 08:35 AM   #25
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Bob,

Disconnect the clutch cable from the handlebar clutch lever. This will give you the 'play' necessary to connect it to the clutch case.
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Old August 16th, 2010, 11:46 AM   #26
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Holy hell, that must have taken ages to put the diy together, I look forward to doing this in the future is that an electronic torque wrench? I gotta get me one a those!
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Old August 24th, 2010, 11:45 AM   #27
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M

Thanks for the tip about disconnecting the cable from the handle. I had done that before but, on the second time around, removed the screwed cable holder from the grip area ( if you know what I mean ) which gave me an extra 1/2 inch of play- just enough. Went for a ride last night- shifted through all gears but needs a little cable adjustment. I assume there is a breaking in period before final adjustments made.
thanks again
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Old May 18th, 2011, 09:02 AM   #28
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to those of you who did this, what did your clutch baskets and hub look like like?
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Old October 28th, 2011, 06:31 PM   #29
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to those of you who did this, what did your clutch baskets and hub look like like?
Not sure I understand your question. If this is still a problem for you (I realize you posted WAY back when), then let me know.
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Old October 28th, 2011, 08:26 PM   #30
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Wow

Very nice pictures. I hope I never have to do this, but I'm going through the DIY because the pics look so damn good
Agreed. Very thorough.
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Old October 28th, 2011, 09:13 PM   #31
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Agreed. Very thorough.
Appreciate the compliments from you and everyone.

My goal was to allow even someone with almost zero mechanical experience the ability to replace a clutch.

Good pictures go a long way towards making this install a breeze.

I don't have my Ninja any longer, so I can't do any more DYI's for this model. However, hopefully my style will inspire others to aggregate info into a simple, informative DIY.

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Old October 29th, 2011, 06:19 AM   #32
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Not sure I understand your question. If this is still a problem for you (I realize you posted WAY back when), then let me know.
what I meant to ask was if the splines on the basket and hub had indentations worn into them from the plates...mind did a little, but I sanded them smooth when I replaces my plates.
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Old October 29th, 2011, 02:34 PM   #33
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what I meant to ask was if the splines on the basket and hub had indentations worn into them from the plates...mind did a little, but I sanded them smooth when I replaces my plates.
How has that worked out for you?
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Old October 29th, 2011, 03:08 PM   #34
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Just found this thread major props on the write up!!!
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Old October 29th, 2011, 05:12 PM   #35
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(humbled)

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Old February 8th, 2012, 07:36 PM   #36
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How many ft/lbs or in/lbs to you torque the bolts that hold in the clutch springs and main friction plate?
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Old February 8th, 2012, 08:07 PM   #37
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IIRC its around 25ft/lbs. not much.
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Old February 8th, 2012, 08:58 PM   #38
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I think it's somewhere between 7 and 9 ft pounds, but I don't have a service manual. I know it's not 25 like that last person said.
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Old February 8th, 2012, 09:56 PM   #39
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/moved to pre-gen tech
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Old February 8th, 2012, 10:08 PM   #40
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Are these the torque settings folks are looking for (from a pre-gen service manual):

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