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Old April 26th, 2014, 03:23 PM   #41
scorch
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i did this mod a while ago on my 08 ninja. Then i remember that it was way too stiff and went back to the old shock. about 50k miles later my original shock went bad and im not using the gsxr shock. My question to you is dont you find it very VERY stiff? mine is. Im trying to adjust it, how do you make the thing a little softer?
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Old April 26th, 2014, 05:27 PM   #42
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i did this mod a while ago on my 08 ninja. Then i remember that it was way too stiff and went back to the old shock. about 50k miles later my original shock went bad and im not using the gsxr shock. My question to you is dont you find it very VERY stiff? mine is. Im trying to adjust it, how do you make the thing a little softer?
Some people use a gsxr1000 spring from the 01 model... Others buy a custom spring...
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Old April 26th, 2014, 05:53 PM   #43
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wouldnt the gsxr1000 shock spring be even stiffer?

my fork seals are busted too, so it looks like my suspension is all over the place.
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Old April 26th, 2014, 06:24 PM   #44
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wouldnt the gsxr1000 shock spring be even stiffer?

my fork seals are busted too, so it looks like my suspension is all over the place.
Nope... The older gsxr 1000 uses an 8.1 spring while your 600 spring is 9.4
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Old April 26th, 2014, 10:06 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by scorch View Post
i did this mod a while ago on my 08 ninja. Then i remember that it was way too stiff and went back to the old shock. about 50k miles later my original shock went bad and im not using the gsxr shock. My question to you is dont you find it very VERY stiff? mine is. Im trying to adjust it, how do you make the thing a little softer?
When you read in the german Gixxer-Forum then you'll see that at least all of the Gixxer-Rider, except the real heavy ones, have the problems about a too stiff suspension and there especially it's the rear shock and so they change the spring of it (many use the spring from the 03/04 GSX-R 1000 whats a 8.3 N/mm).
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Old June 6th, 2015, 09:29 AM   #46
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Here's a quick chart of stock spring rates on the little Ninjas and GSXR shocks, taken from RaceTech's calculators. This is just to make it easier to see which bikes have which spring rates. I don't know if all of these shocks can be easily DIYed or if the springs will swap between all the different GSXR shocks.

I've also included the ideal rider weights for race and street from RT's NewGen calculator. These are just numbers based on RT's formula, not race-proven experience. They're not gospel, but they should give you an idea what spring rate you should be looking for and/or how far off your current spring is. Note that in his suspension thread a while back, rojoracing53 said that RT's calculator gave results that didn't match his real-world testing, and that the stock rear spring still seemed to be too soft for his (unspecified) 160lb weight.

Code:
BIKE MODEL	RATE (kg/mm)	RATE (lb/in)	RIDER (lb)
EX500 OEM 	5.4         	300         	<30
PreGen OEM	7.9         	440         	136-144
NewGen OEM	9.3         	520         	209-218

98-00 GSXR600	6.4         	360         	58-64
01-03 GSXR600	8.0         	450         	141-149
04-05 GSXR600	7.6         	425         	120-128
06-09 GSXR600	9.4         	525         	214-224
11-13 GSXR600	10.1         	565         	250-261

00-03 GSXR750	7.2         	400         	99-107
04-05 GSXR750	7.3         	410         	105-112
06-07 GSXR750	9.5         	530         	219-229
08-10 GSXR750	9.5         	530         	219-229
11-13 GSXR750	10.5        	590         	271-282

01-02 GSXR1000	7.7         	430         	125-133
03-04 GSXR1000	8.6         	480         	172-181
05-06 GSXR1000	8.1         	455         	146-155
07-08 GSXR1000	10.1        	565         	250-261
09-11 GSXR1000	11.6        	650         	329-341
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Old June 7th, 2015, 12:57 AM   #47
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@InvisiBill, thanks for that work
From what I think maybe it would be a good idea to have all your information in one thread - rear and front end. What do you think about?
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Old June 8th, 2015, 05:44 AM   #48
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9.3 kg/mm? is that really the new gen spring? I would have never guess it was that high
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Old June 8th, 2015, 06:58 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Somchai View Post
From what I think maybe it would be a good idea to have all your information in one thread - rear and front end. What do you think about?
A lot of my info is just based on RT's calculators. They generally seem to be at least decent, but we know they've had different data in there for the NewGen, and actual racers here have said that the numbers were quite a bit off (at least in the past). I don't want my (copies of RT's) data to be seen as 100% always the perfect number, so I'm hesitant to include that in any sort of "official" copy, but at the same time I think it helps give people an idea of how different rates and weights match up across the board.

Maybe I'll add something to https://www.ninjette.org/wiki/ with all this data...
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Old June 8th, 2015, 07:26 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by subxero View Post
9.3 kg/mm? is that really the new gen spring? I would have never guess it was that high
Rojo clarified that he's 160lb and it still felt soft to him, so there's a chance that RT's NewGen data or formula needs some correction. Their rates match up pretty well with the 500's chart, and the rear suspensions are pretty similar, so it could be that they have the wrong spring rate. I don't have the tools to do it myself, but it shouldn't be extremely difficult for someone to measure the spring rate to verify (if you put 93kg/205lb on the spring, it should compress 10mm).

The NewGen shock/spring is a huge improvement on my 500 with my fat butt. I had an SV shock (its rate is similar to the PreGen's) installed before, but there was a bit of binding on the clevis, so it wasn't actually operating properly, so I don't have a good direct comparison between the two rates. I have a Penske with a 525# spring waiting to go on, so that should be a good indicator if the NewGen is actually 520#. Between all the different shocks/springs I have, I can probably figure out which it's closest to at least (assuming I'm able to sufficiently notice the different spring rates while riding).

Honestly, it surprised me that nobody mentioned the rear being too stiff for many Ninjette riders' weights, especially with the fork springs being so soft. Rojo's statement that it was actually too soft for him goes even further beyond that. Even if it's about the same as the PreGen, that's still almost 50% stiffer than my stock 500 spring, so it would still be a huge improvement even if wasn't the full 9.3kg/mm listed.
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Old June 8th, 2015, 03:32 PM   #51
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Yes... but consider where that statement is coming from. It's someone with a medalled racing pedigree in AMA Superbike. Of course it's too soft for him.

This is not a cookie cutter comparison you're making here, Bill. Average Joe like you and me has problems with the front loooooong before the rear, likely would appreciate damping adjustment on the rear rather than spring rate change.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 07:42 AM   #52
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Yes... but consider where that statement is coming from. It's someone with a medalled racing pedigree in AMA Superbike. Of course it's too soft for him.
Based on RT's numbers (once again, for whatever that's worth), it still seems really stiff to me. They suggest 8.364kg/mm for 160lb with their race setting. 9.3kg/mm is over 11% higher than that, good for 209lb. For comparison, their street settings say 8.2kg/mm for 160lb and 9.121kg/mm for 209lb, or making the race specs 1.5-1.8% higher than street. Even if he is a top-notch racer who likes the very firm end of the suspension range, it still doesn't seem right to me that he'd use a spring meant for someone 40% heavier.

With that much difference, I'm inclined to believe there's a problem with RT's data or formula. I know that small suspension measurement differences can result in large changes in the final numbers, but all these little Ninjas have pretty similar suspensions (as indicated by the ease of swapping their parts around), and the NewGen calculator seems to match up pretty well to the race-accepted numbers for the 500. That makes me think their formula isn't insanely wrong. Based on the Ninjas' history of soft springs, it wouldn't surprise me if the NewGen rear is actually softer than the listed 9.3kg/mm.

Maybe real racers really do just use springs that much stiffer. He did say that their fork spring calculations (a while back, before changes of some sort were made to the NewGen calc) were low too. Or maybe he's just a fatty in denial about his actual weight.


Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
This is not a cookie cutter comparison you're making here, Bill. Average Joe like you and me has problems with the front loooooong before the rear, likely would appreciate damping adjustment on the rear rather than spring rate change.
Speaking from experience with a binding rear shock mod, I can say that a too-stiff rear will make even a bike with a really good front feel bad (someone with more experience might be able to more easily tell where the problem is, but the bike as a whole felt "bad", worse than with the way-too-soft spring). And if the front is also too soft, the stiff rear will exacerbate the rocking horse effect. If the rear spring really is quite a bit too stiff, getting a softer spring might actually make the front seem less bad because the front isn't being forced to absorb all the force that the rear won't (though you should still install springs of the right rate if you need to).

I've installed a couple springs on one street bike, so obviously I'm an expert now. =) But I tend to agree with the general idea that getting the proper spring rate should be the first step. That'll get it bouncing in the right range, allowing the damping to be most efficient. If the spring is too soft, it'll be moving too much and the damping system will be straining to control the excess movement. But if the spring is too stiff, then it's already not moving enough, so restraining the already-lacking movement isn't going to help any.

Luckily, the GSXR shock can take care of both spring rate and damping settings (assuming you choose one with a spring matching your weight) so you don't have to choose one or the other.

The 600 shocks that most people seem to be using have spring rates in the same range as the PreGen and NewGen OEM springs, so most people probably ended up ok (e.g. the '06-'09 is pretty much the same as the stocker (based on RT's listed data)). It just seemed to me that a lot of people didn't know/care what they needed for their weight or what they were installing - they just heard that a GSXR shock was an upgrade so they bought the cheapest one off eBay. A different year 600 or a 750/1000 might have a spring that better matches the person's weight, rather than just duplicating the stock numbers. Maybe I'm just reading too much into it, but I got the impression that people weren't necessarily informed enough to make the best decision. If you can just make a slightly different model choice when buying your GSXR shock and get one with a spring better suited to your weight, it makes the DIY that much better.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 07:58 AM   #53
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Average Joe like you and me has problems with the front loooooong before the rear, likely would appreciate damping adjustment on the rear rather than spring rate change.
Alot of what you say is valid but I would disagree with this statement. The right rate spring is a required foundation for proper suspension action. It is the primary source of taking your KE (mass of you and the bike moving in relationship to the mass of the earth); storing it as PE and releasing some of it as your KE state changes.

A damper transforms the unwanted KE/PE into thermal energy and spreads it to another media (air). A damper being adjusted up and down to transform more or less of that energy cannot correct a spring that does not have the capability of handling the energy input needed to be stored sufficiently. In the same token but on the opposite side, a spring that does not deflect because it stores and returns KE far to quickly will not allow the tire to track the surface of the road/track and no amount of increase/decrease in damper function is going to change that.

Spring first -> Dampen second
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Old June 10th, 2015, 08:05 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
Speaking from experience with a binding rear shock mod, I can say that a too-stiff rear will make even a bike with a really good front feel bad

Luckily, the GSXR shock can take care of both spring rate and damping settings (assuming you choose one with a spring matching your weight) so you don't have to choose one or the other.
Can show up like this;

Rear chatter while hard on the front brake (harder than your average track rider)
Front pushing because rear will not give up enough travel/speed of travel so the tires, forks and frame must absorb the force
Numb feeling of traction from the rear - too much preload or wrong spring
Too much track feedback from the rear - too much preload or wrong spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
The 600 shocks that most people seem to be using have spring rates in the same range as the PreGen and NewGen OEM springs, so most people probably ended up ok (e.g. the '06-'09 is pretty much the same as the stocker (based on RT's listed data)). It just seemed to me that a lot of people didn't know/care what they needed for their weight or what they were installing - they just heard that a GSXR shock was an upgrade so they bought the cheapest one off eBay. A different year 600 or a 750/1000 might have a spring that better matches the person's weight, rather than just duplicating the stock numbers. Maybe I'm just reading too much into it, but I got the impression that people weren't necessarily informed enough to make the best decision. If you can just make a slightly different model choice when buying your GSXR shock and get one with a spring better suited to your weight, it makes the DIY that much better.
I think you're pretty much spot on.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 10:13 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
The 600 shocks that most people seem to be using have spring rates in the same range as the PreGen and NewGen OEM springs, so most people probably ended up ok (e.g. the '06-'09 is pretty much the same as the stocker (based on RT's listed data)). It just seemed to me that a lot of people didn't know/care what they needed for their weight or what they were installing - they just heard that a GSXR shock was an upgrade so they bought the cheapest one off eBay. A different year 600 or a 750/1000 might have a spring that better matches the person's weight, rather than just duplicating the stock numbers. Maybe I'm just reading too much into it, but I got the impression that people weren't necessarily informed enough to make the best decision. If you can just make a slightly different model choice when buying your GSXR shock and get one with a spring better suited to your weight, it makes the DIY that much better.
You are probably right about this but some people my self in particular put a lot of time and effort into trying to track down a rear spring that would be better for my weight for the gsxr shock. It was difficult and a waste of money. It is hard to find much info let alone accurate info on rear springs. I figured I could find a used shock from some bike that had the rate I wanted and the correct size but it never worked out. Most of the springs were never the right size despite doing research and looking like the numbers added up and I ended up just wasting money trying different shock springs. I should have just bought a new racetech spring from the get go and saved myself the time and money.

But we all know shocks are more than just springs, there are valves, if you are going to go through the trouble of getting the correct spring, that still doesn't mean it is going to work any better on that actual shock as the valving can be way off. Might be a step in the right direction but with a new spring you are still only addressing some of the potential problems and I don't think the gsxr shocks can be rebuilt/revalved very easily or cheaply for that matter.

In short, sticking with the stock spring on the gsxr shock isn't all that bad or big of a deal. If you are going to drop $70 or so to make the conversion work then another $110 for a new spring you are $180 into it, that is a good chunk towards an aftermarket shock built specifically for you and the ninja that keeps the stock geometry. If I could go back and do it again I would probably have went aftermarket
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Old June 10th, 2015, 11:12 AM   #56
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In short, sticking with the stock spring on the gsxr shock isn't all that bad or big of a deal. If you are going to drop $70 or so to make the conversion work then another $110 for a new spring you are $180 into it, that is a good chunk towards an aftermarket shock built specifically for you and the ninja that keeps the stock geometry. If I could go back and do it again I would probably have went aftermarket
That is a fair and accurate point. The GSXR shock works as a budget replacement situation, mostly if your in the range of the stock spring, or you can get an appropriate rate spring off another model for really cheap and swap it yourself. A respring and revalve by a suspension tuner on a GSXR shock is not the best cost effective solution.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 11:16 AM   #57
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That is a fair and accurate point. The GSXR shock works as a budget replacement situation, mostly if your in the range of the stock spring, or you can get an appropriate rate spring off another model for really cheap and swap it yourself. A respring and revalve by a suspension tuner on a GSXR shock is not the best cost effective solution.
exactly, guess that is what I was trying to say but never got to it.

budget replacement that works and gives you lots of adjustment vs stock shock that works and gives you no adjustment
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Old June 10th, 2015, 11:19 AM   #58
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You are probably right about this but some people my self in particular put a lot of time and effort into trying to track down a rear spring that would be better for my weight for the gsxr shock. It was difficult and a waste of money. It is hard to find much info let alone accurate info on rear springs. I figured I could find a used shock from some bike that had the rate I wanted and the correct size but it never worked out. Most of the springs were never the right size despite doing research and looking like the numbers added up and I ended up just wasting money trying different shock springs. I should have just bought a new racetech spring from the get go and saved myself the time and money.

But we all know shocks are more than just springs, there are valves, if you are going to go through the trouble of getting the correct spring, that still doesn't mean it is going to work any better on that actual shock as the valving can be way off. Might be a step in the right direction but with a new spring you are still only addressing some of the potential problems and I don't think the gsxr shocks can be rebuilt/revalved very easily or cheaply for that matter.

In short, sticking with the stock spring on the gsxr shock isn't all that bad or big of a deal. If you are going to drop $70 or so to make the conversion work then another $110 for a new spring you are $180 into it, that is a good chunk towards an aftermarket shock built specifically for you and the ninja that keeps the stock geometry. If I could go back and do it again I would probably have went aftermarket
Absolutely. http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...swap-myth.html

The 500 guys are lucky in that the PreGen spring (or SV650 shock) is good for a ~180lb rider and the NewGen/300 shock/spring is good for bigger guys. We have a few drop-in options that cover a pretty good range of common adult sizes. They're all cheap, non-adjustable shocks, but the horrible stock spring rate means that getting the right rate is a huge upgrade, even if you can't tweak the shock.

But if you can buy a slightly different $25 GSXR shock that will fit the Ninja the same, or buy a second $25 GSXR shock and swap the springs, you might get much better results than just accepting the default one mentioned in the DIY. I'm not sure about the origins of the GSXR shock swap - the fact that it matches the stock spring rate might be carefully researched or pure coincidence. And there seems to be some question about the applicability of the stock rate too.

I found a deal on a used Penske and jumped on it. However, I've been happy enough with the NewGen shock that I haven't bothered to install it yet (the Penske really is overkill for me). The Penske also uses standard(ish?) 6"x2" springs, so it's fairly easy to find replacements pretty cheap (though maybe not in the exact rate you want).
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Old June 10th, 2015, 05:03 PM   #59
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...

Or maybe he's just a fatty in denial about his actual weight.
lol, not a fatty.

also, dude. you've had a lot of time to think about the RT calculator... Don't take that the wrong way. just... wow.

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Spring first -> Dampen second
^^ werd. You're totally right.


but hear me out.

average joe or average sally rides their ninja. They've been riding 3 years, no track time. Comfortable and safe in twisties, able to ride spirited but not dragging knee. Comfortable enough to have some fun, but smart enough to be cautious still.

Where do these riders notice the front end? Bumps. brake dive, corner vagueness. They want that fixed soon.

Where do they feel the rear end? It pogo's over bumps. Maybe they play with the preload a little to stop it from squatting a ton when they just sit on it. But realistically the rear end for an average rider on street is low on rebound damping more than it is undersprung. What I'm saying is that an average rider is going to want a damping change in the rear before they'll really want spring changes.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 05:05 PM   #60
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the PreGen spring is good for a ~180lb rider
Just putting this out there... no it's not.

If it is, then the 500's suspension geometry is different enough from the pregen that you're not comparing apples to apples with all your spring rate thoughts.


EDIT: wait... pregen spring or pregen shock? I've never seen someone change the spring rate on the stock pregen shock. Just not worth it.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 06:01 PM   #61
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also, dude. you've had a lot of time to think about the RT calculator... :rotflmao: Don't take that the wrong way. just... wow.
I'm currently not working, so I've got all sorts of time to think way too much about all kinds of stupid things. You wouldn't believe how much useless crap I've accomplished!


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Just putting this out there... no it's not.

If it is, then the 500's suspension geometry is different enough from the pregen that you're not comparing apples to apples with all your spring rate thoughts.


EDIT: wait... pregen spring or pregen shock? I've never seen someone change the spring rate on the stock pregen shock. Just not worth it.
PreGen spring transplanted to the 500 shock (which is pretty similar, but has a preload adjuster), or with the SV650 shock/spring swapped in. The 500 chart compiled from veterans' info states that a 450# spring is good for a geared-up rider at 200lb. These springs are ~45% stiffer than the 300# stocker.

I haven't done any extensive testing on it, I'm just accepting the word of guys who've been racing these for a long time. So far, their numbers have given me good results. Like I said, the NewGen shock/spring has been such an improvement that I've had a used Penske sitting here in the box for a year because it's just sooooo much work to bolt it in and strap the reservoir to the frame.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 07:21 PM   #62
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@InvisiBill I agree with all you said about the rear shock.
After I bought a new shock from YSS for my bike I'd order it with a 85 N/mm spring (the standard is 80 N/mm) and from what I feel and think now with riding my Ninja I'd better took the standard spring, since my bike still feels really stiff (at the lowest point of pre-load).
And let me say one word about the GSX-R shock, when one reads in the German gixxer forums one can read that around 50% of all 600/750 Gixxer-rider (not the 1000 cc) change the spring of the rear shock to a softer one and this also means nearly no rider is happy with the rear spring, but some guys just take it like it is.
And this I think can be transfered to Ninja-riders also, even when the spring is to stiff nobody will talk about this, because that means confirming a wrong decision was made.
Also since humans are some kind of herd they always follow what others did or say
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Old June 10th, 2015, 07:37 PM   #63
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@InvisiBill I agree with all you said about the rear shock.
After I bought a new shock from YSS for my bike I'd order it with a 85 N/mm spring (the standard is 80 N/mm) and from what I feel and think now with riding my Ninja I'd better took the standard spring, since my bike still feels really stiff (at the lowest point of pre-load).
And let me say one word about the GSX-R shock, when one reads in the German gixxer forums one can read that around 50% of all 600/750 Gixxer-rider (not the 1000 cc) change the spring of the rear shock to a softer one and this also means nearly no rider is happy with the rear spring, but some guys just take it like it is.
And this I think can be transfered to Ninja-riders also, even when the spring is to stiff nobody will talk about this, because that means confirming a wrong decision was made.
Also since humans are some kind of herd they always follow what others did or say

It's stiff for sure. I'm able to be backed out on pre-load and just hit ~30ish sag. If you're ~180lbs I still think it's a bang for your buck thing using the shock as is.
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Old June 11th, 2015, 01:06 AM   #64
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It's stiff for sure. I'm able to be backed out on pre-load and just hit ~30ish sag. If you're ~180lbs I still think it's a bang for your buck thing using the shock as is.
Tom I don't have any problems with what you're doing since its all your way.
But please remember what you are doing:
- with a shorter shock (which from the low sales price could be understood at the end of its life-cycle already) made for a complete different bike (and not only from progression) you are changing the progression of the Ninja's suspension in one way
- just to then use different dog bones to change the progression more backwards in the opposite way
and this only to talk about height and not about the internal components of the gixxer-shock.
But like I said, you must feel and be happy with this mod
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Old June 12th, 2015, 03:41 AM   #65
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9.3 kg/mm? is that really the new gen spring? I would have never guess it was that high
When I calculate the spring rate by the given parameters of the spring the result is: 9.4955 kg/mm.
Here please note that my number of free coils might not be exactly correct so I think the given 9.3 kg/mm spring rate should be the real number.
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Old September 10th, 2015, 02:33 PM   #66
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I got looking at the old Intiminator thread on the SV forum, and ended up browsing some of their shock upgrade stuff. It seems they're using ZX-10/14 shocks for budget upgrades.

Code:
BIKE MODEL	RATE (kg/mm)	RATE (lb/in)	RIDER (lb)
06-07 ZX-10R	8.3         	465         	157-166
06-11 ZX-14R	9.7         	543         	230-240
These two particular models have the reservoir coming straight off. Other years have angled reservoirs, which makes mounting them harder/impossible on the SV.

I was hoping to find a comparable Kawasaki shock that wouldn't require messing with the mounting stuff. Unfortunately, these both use 10mm mounting bolts, so they'll still require the same mods as the GSXR shock there. The width may or may not fit our little Ninjas better. RT does list the same replacement spring part numbers for these and the GSXRs, so they might serve as cheap spring donors if nothing else. They talked about getting these dirt cheap (under $30), but they seem to be closer to $100 on eBay now. If these manage to be less work to get installed and/or you do find one cheap, they might still be a good budget upgrade.

Hopefully someone here has access to one of these shocks (or is willing to buy one as a guinea pig) and can see how applicable it is.
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Old December 14th, 2015, 04:16 PM   #67
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There are a fair number of posts on these forums about long wait times and a complete lack of communication for Burkhart. I thought I'd offer my experience simply because it's recent (unless you're read this months from now).
  • My links were ordered on 7 December 2015
  • $17.00 for the links, $6.35 for shipping
  • Arrived at my doorstep on 14 December 2015
Seems like I got the best case scenario, compared to what others have experienced.
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Old December 14th, 2015, 10:08 PM   #68
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Maybe real racers really do just use springs that much stiffer. He did say that their fork spring calculations (a while back, before changes of some sort were made to the NewGen calc) were low too. Or maybe he's just a fatty in denial about his actual weight.

Just noticed this thread come across the portal page and since I have still yet to install the GSXR shock I bought like two years ago I figured I'd glance at what you guys have figured out. It would seem you've done quite a bit of homework since last I checked.

Couple quick notes. Yes very fast racers use stiff springs then most and the calculators can't compensate for this because there's like only 2% of racers that fall into that scenario. My forks noticeably stiff on the street but at least when I have to jam on the brakes they are there to hold me up. Because my fork are so stiff my stock shock feels even softer then before but I can deal with that because it's not dangerous. The rear shock is only an issue at this point while on the track which hasn't happened for a while and won't be happening again any time soon. It's also too soft when I'm bike camping with all my gear and the MTB on the rear, it actually bottoms out with a noticeable bump over big dips and such. Sadly my laziness dictates It'll still be quite awhile longer before I get to installing that GSXR shock.
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Old December 15th, 2015, 06:59 AM   #69
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Do it already, you bum.
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Old July 8th, 2016, 06:56 PM   #70
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bump ......
This topic has me getting ready to hit up my boxed oem stuff. (I did swap them all out for tunability reasons.) The sec gen 10r shock mentioned above got my attention since I know that one of those sits in a box that an SV 1000 owner wanted. I am still new to the 250, but keep up on the good reads.
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Old July 8th, 2019, 10:43 PM   #71
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Updating this DIY guide to simplify and make it even easier to do. For those wishing to install GSX-R shocks on Ninjette, there is no need to drill out upper shock bushing or your frame mounts. The 10mm bolt used for GSX-R shock is fine because it generates sufficient friction to hold bushing in between ears.

To use factory unmolested 12mm mounting ears and 10mm shock eyelet, you just need two sleeves like this. Might need to remove 1mm from width to not extend beyond width of mounting ears on frame. These fill up larger hole in frame mounting ears and allows simple bolt-on use of GSX-R 10mm bolt.

Polaris # 5135275 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/302898035590

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Old May 30th, 2020, 09:56 AM   #72
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Updating this DIY guide to simplify and make it even easier to do. For those wishing to install GSX-R shocks on Ninjette, there is no need to drill out upper shock bushing or your frame mounts. The 10mm bolt used for GSX-R shock is fine because it generates sufficient friction to hold bushing in between ears.

To use factory unmolested 12mm mounting ears and 10mm shock eyelet, you just need two sleeves like this. Might need to remove 1mm from width to not extend beyond width of mounting ears on frame. These fill up larger hole in frame mounting ears and allows simple bolt-on use of GSX-R 10mm bolt.

Polaris # 5135275 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/302898035590

Awesome man, good info I've been searching around for something like this. Been considering the GSXR shock upgrade for a while.

Btw does anyone have any pics of the cutout they had to do to the rear underplastic to get this to fit? I'm trying to picture what it will look like after cutting plastics, and how to mitigate any issues with the cutout and riding in wet weather
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Old May 30th, 2020, 10:27 AM   #73
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Awesome man, good info I've been searching around for something like this. Been considering the GSXR shock upgrade for a while.

Btw does anyone have any pics of the cutout they had to do to the rear underplastic to get this to fit? I'm trying to picture what it will look like after cutting plastics, and how to mitigate any issues with the cutout and riding in wet weather
I'll run to the garage and take a pic.
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Old May 30th, 2020, 10:32 AM   #74
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Here's how mine looks. Luckily the carbs are out with Gordon so pics were easy lol.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 20200530_132956.jpg (93.1 KB, 12 views)
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Old May 30th, 2020, 10:58 AM   #75
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Here's how mine looks. Luckily the carbs are out with Gordon so pics were easy lol.
Thanks for that! Hmm seems I need to cut a big portion of the plastics to get the shock to fit. Worried about rain getting in, as I ride this rain or shine.

Maybe I could use a small lithium ion battery instead to make space and add some kind of block off rubber mat/plastic/metal where the cut above the shock.
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Old May 30th, 2020, 11:14 AM   #76
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Thanks for that! Hmm seems I need to cut a big portion of the plastics to get the shock to fit. Worried about rain getting in, as I ride this rain or shine.

Maybe I could use a small lithium ion battery instead to make space and add some kind of block off rubber mat/plastic/metal where the cut above the shock.
I switched to pod filter when I did this. Mainly to give me more room there than any HP gains but even with the open pod there I've had no issues in the rain.
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Old May 30th, 2020, 03:50 PM   #77
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Depending upon specific GSX-R shock you get, amount to cut from fender-liner will vary. Get shock first, then see where it interferes and cut minimum amount needed.
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Old May 30th, 2020, 06:38 PM   #78
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Depending upon specific GSX-R shock you get, amount to cut from fender-liner will vary. Get shock first, then see where it interferes and cut minimum amount needed.

I'm thinking about grabbing an 03-04 GSXR 1000 shock. I'm 176lbs without gear and I've got a SW Motech rack in the back that adds some weight. I just added 0.75kg racetech springs w/ 15w fork oil.

I left the oil height stock for now, Ill probably start adjusting it this coming week as I don't think I'm using all of my fork travel. I actually forgot to mark where the fork bottoms out so I gotta go back in anyway, and I figure I'll pull out some oil and try 120mm oil height and see how that plays out
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Old May 31st, 2020, 06:51 AM   #79
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I ran the 600 with a 1000 spring with minimal cutting. I cannot remember the specs or year shock I used.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 05:17 PM   #80
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Hi All. I realize that this is an old thread, but I'm hoping you all can help. I bought a get 2 ninjette race bike. It has the GSXR shock installed. I spent the summer dragging rears pegs, burning through boots and generally looking like a fool who doesn't know how to set up a bike. I need to raise the rear over the winter. Ordered raising links from Burkahrt a month and a half ago. No confirmation outside of the website account showing the order pending. No responses. Not sure they will ever come seeing as how it is now 11 years later than this thread started.

So, can anyone help me with dog bone measurements. I have access to a CNC router and am capable of making my own if I have a staring point on measurements. Looking to raise the rear 1.25". Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks.
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