Help! Don't want to get electrocuted!!

LR1914 · July 4th, 2013, 10:25 AM

I installed a license plate frame with turn signals after getting rid of the rear fender. I pulled the wires out of the stock turn signals because the screws on them were stripped.

This picture is what I pulled out from the stock turn signals. Can I just remove the black tape and gold connector things and just tie the wires to the ones that are coming from the new turn signals??

I don't know if they have any electrical current running though them. The bike is off of course....

fishdip · July 4th, 2013, 10:27 AM

Take the + cable off the batter then you don't need to worry about it.

contact148 · July 4th, 2013, 12:25 PM

turn signals should only have power when ON (ie hitting turn switch) so bike off key out and your fine

or as above disconnect battery if your that worried

I would solder the wires and heat shrink tube them

when I did mine I ordered the OEM conectors from eastern beaver that way I had no sketchy connections

LR1914 · July 4th, 2013, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by contact148

turn signals should only have power when ON (ie hitting turn switch) so bike off key out and your fine

or as above disconnect battery if your that worried

I would solder the wires and heat shrink tube them

when I did mine I ordered the OEM conectors from eastern beaver that way I had no sketchy connections

I don't have a soldering iron. Or a heat shrink thing.

But I did realize that I had to connect them further down toward the battery, duh!

I bought an LED flash relay that wasn't the exact same model as what I needed; the connectors were different. So I just snipped the connectors off, stripped the wires, wrapped them together with the correct ones, wrapped each bundle in electrical tape, threw the fairing on, and everything works great.

Should I go back in and do something with the wires to make it more permanent? Or will I be okay this way?

I really would rather not have to go out and buy a bunch of stuff like soldering irons just to use them once.

fishdip · July 4th, 2013, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LR1914

I don't have a soldering iron. Or a heat shrink thing.

But I did realize that I had to connect them further down toward the battery, duh!

I bought an LED flash relay that wasn't the exact same model as what I needed; the connectors were different. So I just snipped the connectors off, stripped the wires, wrapped them together with the correct ones, wrapped each bundle in electrical tape, threw the fairing on, and everything works great.

Should I go back in and do something with the wires to make it more permanent? Or will I be okay this way?

I really would rather not have to go out and buy a bunch of stuff like soldering irons just to use them once.

I have seen wires just hanging open on a bike and it was fine with that said as long as you put care in to the electrical tape part id not worry to much about it other then looks.

LR1914 · July 4th, 2013, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishdip

I have seen wires just hanging open on a bike and it was fine with that said as long as you put care in to the electrical tape part id not worry to much about it other then looks.

Cool. Well the fairing is covering it 100% so the look is fine. I may check it after a week or so and make sure nothing is jostling. It's pretty tightly packed so I'm not too worried.

Thanks for the reassurance!

ChaoSS · July 4th, 2013, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishdip

Take the + cable off the batter then you don't need to worry about it.

No. Always disconnect the - cable off first. Always.

Ktam · July 4th, 2013, 06:11 PM

http://image.made-in-china.com/4f0j0...-Connector.jpg

^Quick and easy...but seriously...soldering irons and heat shrink is always the way to go

fishdip · July 4th, 2013, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaoSS

No. Always disconnect the - cable off first. Always.

why so you don't make sparks fly? I did not post how to do it safe I posted how to make it so the wire has no way to shock you. how you remove said + wire and in what order is up to him.

Ktam · July 4th, 2013, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishdip

why so you don't make sparks fly? I did not post how to do it safe I posted how to make it so the wire has no way to shock you. how you remove said + wire and in what order is up to him.

Look...the OP might not be the top of his class in electrical engineering, but we still don't want him discharging 12 volts into himself - unlikely and even then it's only 12 volts yes. Don't be the the kid that convinces the gullible kid to touch the electrical fence

. Safety always!

fishdip · July 4th, 2013, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ktam

Look...the OP might not be the top of his class in electrical engineering, but we still don't want him discharging 12 volts into himself - unlikely and even then it's only 12 volts yes. Don't be the the kid that convinces the gullible kid to touch the electrical fence

. Safety always!

Your right we really don't. in less its recorded

Asspire · July 4th, 2013, 09:20 PM

1. use male and female weatherproof spade connectors (makes it easier to revert or remove)

2. doesn't matter if you disconnect the positive or negative battery cable first, just disconnect at least one.

3. you will NOT get shocked from 12V. and if it does short it self, the fuse will blow first.

ChaoSS · July 4th, 2013, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asspire

1. use male and female weatherproof spade connectors (makes it easier to revert or remove)

2. doesn't matter if you disconnect the positive or negative battery cable first, just disconnect at least one.

3. you will NOT get shocked from 12V. and if it does short it self, the fuse will blow first.

No, but it is important to be careful working around car electronics, somethings are more than 12 volts, and if you don't know anything about what you are doing, better safe than sorry. And sometimes stuff gets damaged before the fuse manages to blow itself.

fishdip · July 4th, 2013, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaoSS

No, but it is important to be careful working around car electronics, somethings are more than 12 volts, and if you don't know anything about what you are doing, better safe than sorry. And sometimes stuff gets damaged before the fuse manages to blow itself.

How dose a fuse blow its self?

LR1914 · July 5th, 2013, 06:38 AM

Thanks, ChoSS and Ktam for warning me about fishdip's attempt to get me electrocuted for his own entertainment.

adouglas · July 5th, 2013, 07:26 AM

It's only 12 volts. What are you worried about?

Panda · July 5th, 2013, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ktam

Look...the OP might not be the top of his class in electrical engineering, but we still don't want him discharging 12 volts into himself - unlikely and even then it's only 12 volts yes. Don't be the the kid that convinces the gullible kid to touch the electrical fence

. Safety always!

It's the amps that get you.

bdavison · July 5th, 2013, 09:12 AM

The only thing on the bike that could effectively "electrocute" you is the ignition circuit, the one going to the sparkplugs. And it will give you one heck of a zap if you happen to hit the starter button while holding onto one of the plug wires.

As for the turn signals, its highly unlikely you would recieve any shock from it...however
I can stop your heart with a 9V battery if I use it the right way.

But in the case of your bike, your body's resistance is too high, and you wont get electocuted by a turn signal wire. Your body is probably in the 8,000 ohms category of resistance...and could be as high as 50,000 ohms, and that effectively drops the amperage down below anything you could feel from a 12V turn signal wire.

You'd have to attach spikes to the + and -, and jab them into your chest to pretty much feel anything.

OH, and its NOT the amps that gets you.
60,000VDC at 3mA will turn you into a flopping chicken just as fast as 32VDC at 600A will.
Electrocution depends on more than that, Current, Voltage, Resistance, Duration, and Path.

adouglas · July 5th, 2013, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panda

It's the amps that get you.

That is a true statement.

Asspire · July 5th, 2013, 07:00 PM

it only takes .6 amps to stop your heart.

that being said, I've tasted 120v and 240v. it all depends how and where it happens.

Vintage Smoke · July 6th, 2013, 10:24 PM

Oh man...
You will never get zapped with any of the 12V circuits on your bike. You can grab the neg and pos terminals on the battery directly and nothing will happen. Really...it's simple physics. The battery just doesn't have the power to do it (as was explained above). Maybe if you were wet with a highly conductive liquid or you did it with your tongue LOL.

Now....as to ALWAYS removing the negative terminal FIRST....that is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT GOOD ADVICE.
- If while removing the negative terminal first you slip with the wrench hitting something metal that is connected to ground you do nothing. The negative terminal is already connected to ground so it doesn't matter.

- If you do the same while removing the positive terminal first...ZAPPPP!! You will be creating a dead short of the battery directly from the positive terminal. Remember...current traveling through a metal wrench which is highly conductive is much different than your body which is not very conductive. It can melt the negative battery cable(if it is thin gauge) or even worse it will melt the wrench in half like a fuse if it gets stuck to the terminal. A 12V battery at a dead short has enough power to melt the wrench in half and can weld a ring to your finger if it is part of the circuit you just accidentally created. I have seen BOTH in person. It is very ugly. Snap on wrenches are NOT supposed to glow red and the smell of burning flesh is horrible.

If you remove the NEGATIVE FIRST then you have broken the circuit. If you THEN slip while removing the positive terminal it isn't a problem.

July 4th, 2013, 10:27 AM	#2
fishdip ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Fish Location: co Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 250/300 Posts: A lot.	Take the + cable off the batter then you don't need to worry about it. __________________________________________________ Hey Unregistered never go faster than your brakes can be applied...

July 4th, 2013, 09:20 PM	#12
Asspire Fix It Till Ya Break It Name: Asspyre Location: T.Dot Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623	1. use male and female weatherproof spade connectors (makes it easier to revert or remove) 2. doesn't matter if you disconnect the positive or negative battery cable first, just disconnect at least one. 3. you will NOT get shocked from 12V. and if it does short it self, the fuse will blow first.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

July 5th, 2013, 07:26 AM	#16
adouglas Cat herder Name: Gort Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 6 MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13	It's only 12 volts. What are you worried about? __________________________________________________ I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem.

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July 4th, 2013, 12:25 PM	#3
contact148 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Toronto Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250 2013 GSXR 600 Posts: 96	turn signals should only have power when ON (ie hitting turn switch) so bike off key out and your fine or as above disconnect battery if your that worried I would solder the wires and heat shrink tube them when I did mine I ordered the OEM conectors from eastern beaver that way I had no sketchy connections

July 4th, 2013, 06:11 PM	#8
Ktam ninjette.org member Name: Kelvin Location: Vancouver Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: 15	http://image.made-in-china.com/4f0j0...-Connector.jpg ^Quick and easy...but seriously...soldering irons and heat shrink is always the way to go

July 5th, 2013, 06:38 AM	#15
LR1914 ninjette.org member Name: Luis Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250r Posts: 47	Thanks, ChoSS and Ktam for warning me about fishdip's attempt to get me electrocuted for his own entertainment.

July 5th, 2013, 09:12 AM	#18
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	The only thing on the bike that could effectively "electrocute" you is the ignition circuit, the one going to the sparkplugs. And it will give you one heck of a zap if you happen to hit the starter button while holding onto one of the plug wires. As for the turn signals, its highly unlikely you would recieve any shock from it...however I can stop your heart with a 9V battery if I use it the right way. But in the case of your bike, your body's resistance is too high, and you wont get electocuted by a turn signal wire. Your body is probably in the 8,000 ohms category of resistance...and could be as high as 50,000 ohms, and that effectively drops the amperage down below anything you could feel from a 12V turn signal wire. You'd have to attach spikes to the + and -, and jab them into your chest to pretty much feel anything. OH, and its NOT the amps that gets you. 60,000VDC at 3mA will turn you into a flopping chicken just as fast as 32VDC at 600A will. Electrocution depends on more than that, Current, Voltage, Resistance, Duration, and Path.

July 5th, 2013, 07:00 PM	#20
Asspire Fix It Till Ya Break It Name: Asspyre Location: T.Dot Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623	it only takes .6 amps to stop your heart. that being said, I've tasted 120v and 240v. it all depends how and where it happens.

July 6th, 2013, 10:24 PM	#21
Vintage Smoke The 2 Stroke Ninja!! Name: Nick Location: Sussex, NJ Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R, 1977 RD400, 72&73 RD350 75 RD200 Posts: 79	Oh man... You will never get zapped with any of the 12V circuits on your bike. You can grab the neg and pos terminals on the battery directly and nothing will happen. Really...it's simple physics. The battery just doesn't have the power to do it (as was explained above). Maybe if you were wet with a highly conductive liquid or you did it with your tongue LOL. Now....as to ALWAYS removing the negative terminal FIRST....that is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT GOOD ADVICE. - If while removing the negative terminal first you slip with the wrench hitting something metal that is connected to ground you do nothing. The negative terminal is already connected to ground so it doesn't matter. - If you do the same while removing the positive terminal first...ZAPPPP!! You will be creating a dead short of the battery directly from the positive terminal. Remember...current traveling through a metal wrench which is highly conductive is much different than your body which is not very conductive. It can melt the negative battery cable(if it is thin gauge) or even worse it will melt the wrench in half like a fuse if it gets stuck to the terminal. A 12V battery at a dead short has enough power to melt the wrench in half and can weld a ring to your finger if it is part of the circuit you just accidentally created. I have seen BOTH in person. It is very ugly. Snap on wrenches are NOT supposed to glow red and the smell of burning flesh is horrible. If you remove the NEGATIVE FIRST then you have broken the circuit. If you THEN slip while removing the positive terminal it isn't a problem.