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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:12 PM   #1
cableguy
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"Removed" rear axle and found this - How to reassemble / fix / salvage

Hi All!

So I bought a 1994 250R that "used" to run. I spent last fall sorting out the carbs and getting it into a "running" fashion. I was able to drive it and it shifts and revs good now.

So now I am doing cosmetics, gas tank painting, wiring work and painting most of the silver black.

So, that leads me removing the entire rear end as it is all silver, including bolts, brackets, etc.

Long story short -

It took my about an hour to remove the rear axle and this is what I found. Had the beat the hell out of it with a 2.5LB sludge + extensions.

What is going on here? I have both of the axle seals (dry and slightly rusted) and then there is another piece that I think is/was a bearing but I only found like 6 ball bearing and then a bunch of twisted metal. The axle looks good but does have a few niks in it at the end of the bearings (or where bearing should be. )


Can anyone point me to a guide on how to fix / reassemble / get new parts?
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:15 PM   #2
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That was the bearing of the sprocket.
You will need a new bearing, a new dust seal and a new sprocket base, at least:

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/k...ar-wheel-chain

Assembly 42033 in this picture:

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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
That was the bearing of the sprocket.
You will need a new bearing and a new sprocket base.

Assembly 42033 in this picture:
...and a good cleaning!

Thank you!

Checking eBay now. Will probably get a new axle too.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:27 PM   #4
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You are welcome.

That is the only bearing in the wheel assembly that is not sealed.
The last grease the poor thing had was the one Kawa put in 1994.

It is possible that parts 42036 and 92027 have been damaged as well.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:36 PM   #5
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You may do better to locate a complete used rear wheel and sprocket carrier in good condition. It looks like there is damage to the wheel itself that may cause problems even with a new carrier and spacer.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 09:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
You may do better to locate a complete used rear wheel and sprocket carrier in good condition. It looks like there is damage to the wheel itself that may cause problems even with a new carrier and spacer.
I did just that.

Found a tire in great shape, a good rim with everything on it (Rotor, sprocket, and axle) and they all look to be in good shape from an 05 250. Only $85 more invested....

Thanks for the quick replies!
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Old April 12th, 2017, 03:11 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy View Post
Hi All!

So I bought a 1994 250R that "used" to run. I spent last fall sorting out the carbs and getting it into a "running" fashion. I was able to drive it and it shifts and revs good now.

So now I am doing cosmetics, gas tank painting, wiring work and painting most of the silver black.

So, that leads me removing the entire rear end as it is all silver, including bolts, brackets, etc.

Long story short -

It took my about an hour to remove the rear axle and this is what I found. Had the beat the hell out of it with a 2.5LB sludge + extensions.

What is going on here? I have both of the axle seals (dry and slightly rusted) and then there is another piece that I think is/was a bearing but I only found like 6 ball bearing and then a bunch of twisted metal. The axle looks good but does have a few niks in it at the end of the bearings (or where bearing should be. )


Can anyone point me to a guide on how to fix / reassemble / get new parts?
This happened to my 1982 Honda FT500. It was due to a poorly finished rear axle spacer that chewed-up the wheel bearing seal. Water got into the rear hub and rusted the inner bearing race onto the axle. I too had to beat the snot out of the rear axle after I soaked the rear hub in a ATF/gasoline mixture and soaked it for two days. Looks to me like you ought to hit eBay and look for a new axle and entire rear wheel assembly. From the looks of it your rear wheel hub is beyond repair. A little tip I would pass on. Upon reassembly lightly coat the rear axle with lithium grease to prevent this happening in the future. I polished my rear axle spacer on my buffing wheel and made it mirror smooth so it wouldn't chew-up my new bearing seal.

Bill
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Old April 12th, 2017, 05:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
This happened to my 1982 Honda FT500. It was due to a poorly finished rear axle spacer that chewed-up the wheel bearing seal. Water got into the rear hub and rusted the inner bearing race onto the axle. I too had to beat the snot out of the rear axle after I soaked the rear hub in a ATF/gasoline mixture and soaked it for two days. Looks to me like you ought to hit eBay and look for a new axle and entire rear wheel assembly. From the looks of it your rear wheel hub is beyond repair. A little tip I would pass on. Upon reassembly lightly coat the rear axle with lithium grease to prevent this happening in the future. I polished my rear axle spacer on my buffing wheel and made it mirror smooth so it wouldn't chew-up my new bearing seal.

Bill

Hi Bill - Thanks for the tips! I am new to "motorcycle rehabbing" so I appreciate the tips on how to avoid this in the future.

I will polish the new axle and grease it up real nice.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 06:10 AM   #9
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Hi Bill - Thanks for the tips! I am new to "motorcycle rehabbing" so I appreciate the tips on how to avoid this in the future.

I will polish the new axle and grease it up real nice.
By the way, the next time (I hope you don't) have to hammer out a bolt , thread the nut on to the threads so you'll be less likely to damage the threaded male portion of the bolt/axle. I think I've seen a rear wheel assembly on eBay recently. Not sure. Keep at it and be glad your bike isn't 35 years old like my ol' Honda.

Cheers,

Bill
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Old April 12th, 2017, 06:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
By the way, the next time (I hope you don't) have to hammer out a bolt , thread the nut on to the threads so you'll be less likely to damage the threaded male portion of the bolt/axle. I think I've seen a rear wheel assembly on eBay recently. Not sure. Keep at it and be glad your bike isn't 35 years old like my ol' Honda.

Cheers,

Bill
Probably should have left the nut on... I was so frustrated trying it get it out I was more focused on that.

Grabbed this with a tire that looks like it is in good shape.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181138382065...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old April 12th, 2017, 06:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy View Post
Probably should have left the nut on... I was so frustrated trying it get it out I was more focused on that.

Grabbed this with a tire that looks like it is in good shape.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181138382065...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
You should be good then.

A couple things about that tire - look at the production date. It's 4 numbers on an oval on the sidewall like "3607". The first 2 digits are the week of the year (36th week) and the second 2 are they last 2 of the year (2007). Generally 5 years is the lifespan of a cycle tire - no matter how much tread is on it. Rubber dries out and traction degrades with age no matter how much use it has. Some factors like UV , heat, heat cycles, etc will speed-up the process.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it may say "2913", so it would be on the edge. It's in about the 10:00 position in the photo.

One other thing on that particular tire - it looks like the sell has used some type of rubber treatment on it to "wet it down". If so, that's a problem. If you decide to use it you will need to clean all of it off well or risk having the rear tire slide out when cornering.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 06:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy View Post
Probably should have left the nut on... I was so frustrated trying it get it out I was more focused on that.

Grabbed this with a tire that looks like it is in good shape.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181138382065...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Ya dun good laddy! Heck, even the tire has some miles left in it. And the axle and adjusters to boot! What would you charge me to shop for me on eBay? Hey, you might not have wanted a black wheel but if you took some 320 grit then some 400 grit and (whew) some 600 grit sandpaper to just the outside rim it looks pretty cool.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 07:36 AM   #13
cableguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
You should be good then.

A couple things about that tire - look at the production date. It's 4 numbers on an oval on the sidewall like "3607". The first 2 digits are the week of the year (36th week) and the second 2 are they last 2 of the year (2007). Generally 5 years is the lifespan of a cycle tire - no matter how much tread is on it. Rubber dries out and traction degrades with age no matter how much use it has. Some factors like UV , heat, heat cycles, etc will speed-up the process.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it may say "2913", so it would be on the edge. It's in about the 10:00 position in the photo.

One other thing on that particular tire - it looks like the sell has used some type of rubber treatment on it to "wet it down". If so, that's a problem. If you decide to use it you will need to clean all of it off well or risk having the rear tire slide out when cornering.
Again, learning more and thanks for the tips! Will check the dates.

I know!! It looks like he dunked the tire in a vat of "tire wet".


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
Ya dun good laddy! Heck, even the tire has some miles left in it. And the axle and adjusters to boot! What would you charge me to shop for me on eBay? Hey, you might not have wanted a black wheel but if you took some 320 grit then some 400 grit and (whew) some 600 grit sandpaper to just the outside rim it looks pretty cool.
I did want black. The current bike is a 1994 Black and Purple paint scheme, which will be all black soon.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 08:07 AM   #14
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You're right

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
You should be good then.

A couple things about that tire - look at the production date. It's 4 numbers on an oval on the sidewall like "3607". The first 2 digits are the week of the year (36th week) and the second 2 are they last 2 of the year (2007). Generally 5 years is the lifespan of a cycle tire - no matter how much tread is on it. Rubber dries out and traction degrades with age no matter how much use it has. Some factors like UV , heat, heat cycles, etc will speed-up the process.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it may say "2913", so it would be on the edge. It's in about the 10:00 position in the photo.

One other thing on that particular tire - it looks like the sell has used some type of rubber treatment on it to "wet it down". If so, that's a problem. If you decide to use it you will need to clean all of it off well or risk having the rear tire slide out when cornering.
That's why I broke down and replaced my 32 year old front tire on my 82 Honda a couple of years ago. I'm so cheap I squeak.

Bill
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