Oil Pressure Light Staying on at Start Up - Page 2

mgentz · August 24th, 2016, 07:40 PM

had this. synthetic oil cured it...

some oils just suck.

bogiejr · August 24th, 2016, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgentz

had this. synthetic oil cured it...

some oils just suck.

That is something I also wondered if the type of oil was causing this. I have a semi syn in there now. Was your filter screen dirty? Did you keep same weight when switching to synthetic?

mgentz · August 25th, 2016, 04:32 AM

Went from Dino to full synthetic. My screen was not dirty. I clean it regularly and I always use k&n oil filters.

I did not change oil weights.

bogiejr · August 25th, 2016, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgentz

Went from Dino to full synthetic. My screen was not dirty. I clean it regularly and I always use k&n oil filters.

I did not change oil weights.

Thats good to know. Did this synthetic oil change involve an oil filter o-ring swap? I don't believe K&N filters give you new o-rings. However, I don't use their over priced Chinese filters but do have their air filters.

The type of oil could definitely play a factor in this. Im running a semi-blend 10W-40. Only used kawi conv oil until around 3K during break in.

alex.s · August 25th, 2016, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

5w-40 means when its cold, it behaves like a 5 weight oil. when its hot, it behaves like a 40 weight.

when single viscosity oil warms up, it gets less viscous.

but a 5w oil is less viscous than a 15w oil, when they are at the same temperature.

multiviscosity oil means that the oil does not change viscosity as much as a single viscosity oil would. as in, when it heats up, it doesn't thin out as much.

so if it was single viscosity 40 weight... when it got cold, it would be much too thick. if it was single viscosity 15 weight... when it got hot, it would be much too thin.

engines are made of metal. metal changes size when it heats up. every single clearance on the engine is "incorrect" when it is cold. only once they are hot do they take the correct clearances. the clearances they take up when cold are very different. the cold weight of the oil must match these cold clearances. if the cold weight oil doesn't correctly match the cold clearances of the engine, you get bearing and oil pump wear.

when a lubrication system is designed for a maximum amount of viscosity for the given clearances (e.g. on ours, 15w cold) when you try to push oil with less viscosity through it (10w, 5w, cold) then the oil pump won't produce as much pressure until it warms up and those clearances tighten up. the crank and cams also will have too much clearance until it warms up.

someone thumbed up this post and i noticed i misspoke.

when you run an oil with a cold weight that is higher than stock, it raises the oil pressure. the flow is essentially constant.

bogiejr · August 25th, 2016, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

someone thumbed up this post and i noticed i misspoke.

when you run an oil with a cold weight that is higher than stock, it raises the oil pressure. the flow is essentially constant.

You are correct that the oil preasure will be higher with a higher base weight oil. However, flow is quicker with lower weight oil especially at startup and in cold temps.

alex.s · August 25th, 2016, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogiejr

You are correct that the oil preasure will be higher with a higher base weight oil. However, flow is quicker with lower weight oil especially at startup and in cold temps.

every oil pump i've seen is constant volume type that doesn't "leak back" which means flow should be linear with oil pump rpm. oil weight, oil pressure, oil temperature... nothing changes the fact that the oil pump is constant volume per rpm.

mgentz · August 25th, 2016, 07:38 PM

Pressure can be increased by modifying the relief valve. Volume is volume with our OEM pump.

bogiejr · September 6th, 2016, 03:28 PM

Drained the oil and spun the filter off. As soon as I got the filter off, I realized what the problem probably was because I found that the filter grommet was jammed against the union Bolt causing it not to move up and down. I believe this was from the Grommet being improperly sized. I fixed it, reinstalled it, and it's been working fine ever since. Still trying to prove it out but I think that was the major problem. Hopefully, it's fixed now. To be more clear about it, the top of the filters grommet was jammed against the end of the threads on the union Bolt.

Alex · October 2nd, 2016, 09:45 PM

Glad it's fixed!

bogiejr · October 26th, 2016, 10:05 AM

Anyone tried the fram oil filter instead of wix? Generally not a fan of fram, but it looked like it was made well. India made.

September 6th, 2016, 03:28 PM	#49
bogiejr ninjette.org member Name: Jon Location: East TN Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: 23	update... Drained the oil and spun the filter off. As soon as I got the filter off, I realized what the problem probably was because I found that the filter grommet was jammed against the union Bolt causing it not to move up and down. I believe this was from the Grommet being improperly sized. I fixed it, reinstalled it, and it's been working fine ever since. Still trying to prove it out but I think that was the major problem. Hopefully, it's fixed now. To be more clear about it, the top of the filters grommet was jammed against the end of the threads on the union Bolt.

October 2nd, 2016, 09:45 PM	#50
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Glad it's fixed! __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
oil pressure light	contact148	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	28	June 21st, 2018 06:54 AM
Oil Pressure Light on Startup	quicklooker	1986 - 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	28	July 19th, 2013 07:16 AM
Oil pressure light question...	Iffita	1986 - 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	3	October 9th, 2012 07:44 PM
Oil pressure switch	randomwalk101	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	13	February 23rd, 2011 06:58 PM
Oil & Temp light staying on longer at start-up	headshrink	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	5	June 19th, 2009 01:24 AM

August 24th, 2016, 07:40 PM	#41
mgentz Board Member Name: ... Location: WI Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250R (street), 250R (dirt) Posts: A lot.	had this. synthetic oil cured it... some oils just suck.

August 25th, 2016, 04:32 AM	#43
mgentz Board Member Name: ... Location: WI Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250R (street), 250R (dirt) Posts: A lot.	Went from Dino to full synthetic. My screen was not dirty. I clean it regularly and I always use k&n oil filters. I did not change oil weights.

August 25th, 2016, 07:38 PM	#48
mgentz Board Member Name: ... Location: WI Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250R (street), 250R (dirt) Posts: A lot.	Pressure can be increased by modifying the relief valve. Volume is volume with our OEM pump.

October 26th, 2016, 10:05 AM	#51
bogiejr ninjette.org member Name: Jon Location: East TN Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: 23	Anyone tried the fram oil filter instead of wix? Generally not a fan of fram, but it looked like it was made well. India made.