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Old August 19th, 2016, 09:49 AM   #1
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Lightbulb Is there interest in replacement handlebars?

Is there interest in replacement handlebar?

I'm making replacement handlebars out out solid round bar to replace my OEM ones that are bent.

The OEM ones bend easily due to there hollow design. I was wondering would anybody be interested in purchasing a set of solid ones?

As these would be stronger, wouldn't bend easily, and also be heavier, as this should help cut down bar vibration/buzz.

I'm going to start experimenting soon, if there is an interest, or you have input, please feel free to post.

I'm not sure of what price I would charge for a set, but keeping in mind that Kawasaki wants about $60 each for the OEM one's.


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Old August 19th, 2016, 09:52 AM   #2
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Test em out and report back... Money savings, no more bar end weight, yadda yadda
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Old August 19th, 2016, 09:53 AM   #3
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Oooooh ooooh oooooh can you make cheaper clipons?
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Old August 19th, 2016, 09:59 AM   #4
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That is my goal, if not cheaper, a better replacement part to the OEM bar. These would fit the OEM risers, and be a bolt on replacement part.

The OEM bars are cheap, and bend from just a drop, I'm looking for a stronger part, that would take abuse, without bending so easley.

As far as eliminating the bar ends, I don't know about that. Personally I'm going to keep my custom stainless steel bar ends, they are extra heavy, and eliminate a lot of the bar buzz.

Bar buzz is a personal choice, one could try them out without the ends, and make their choices afterwards. I will be tapping them for the ends, the choice would be up to the individual wether or not to use them.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 10:04 AM   #5
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How much did SS bar ends set you back?
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Old August 19th, 2016, 10:07 AM   #6
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How much did SS bar ends set you back?
All the information can be found in my blog

Extra Heavy Bar Ends
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Old August 19th, 2016, 10:25 AM   #7
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Sweet
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Old August 19th, 2016, 11:55 AM   #8
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In the event of a crash/fall, wouldn't a solid bar be more likely to crack/break the risers?
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Old August 19th, 2016, 12:54 PM   #9
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^^^ werd.

This is why the aftermarket using aluminum bars makes so much sense. If the bar is intentionally the most easily bent part in the system, the towers are better protected in the event of a drop. Cheap replacement bars >>>> expensive replacement CNC-milled towers.


Also, solid? You're looking at what, 5 lbs for just the handlebars?
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Old August 19th, 2016, 01:12 PM   #10
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All good points, I'm simply just experimenting to find a cheaper solution instead of having to buy new OEM ones.

Perhaps the bars are intentionally made weak for the reason to save the risers from breaking or damaged, it's far to say that removing this weak link, just moves the weak link to the next part.

But if you do happen to break or damage the risers, they are far more plentiful and cheaper, then the bars themselves.

An interesting observation I've made is that the PreGen Ninjette uses the same riser/bar set-up as other model Kawasakis, like the EX500, is a direct replacement.

I'm using a set of risers off a zx600 on my PreGen, How to lower your bars.... as seen here in my write-up.

So it may be safe to assume that not only does the EX500 use the bar inserts, but maybe the ZX600 as well. I have no way to confirm or deny this, but it's a good possibility.

The bar stock I might use is carbon steel, or perhaps something else, cheaper, maybe just plain round bar.

As I said I'll be doing some experimenting over the coming weeks, right now I'm in the research phase.

So keep the ideas coming, and if anyone else is interested in an alternative replacement to the OEM ones.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 01:16 PM   #11
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Well, I support your efforts to find an alternative, but yes... the bar should bend/break before anything else. Woodcraft and other companies have been doing this for a while now and have replacement bars for $10 MSRP or cheaper from other sources. I know you have a vibration issue you are working on as well, but how about a flexible, weighted insert into the hollow bar?

The first thing I would try is to put the heaviest chain that will fit in the hollow bars. Next I would take lead weight discs, drill a hole in the center of each and string them through the bar (latex dipped). Just some ideas so you can customize the weight and placement. Either end or in the center via small holes drilled in the hollow bar to hold in place.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 01:20 PM   #12
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Also some PreGens have already been dropped/down, and when a new owner gets the bike, they are already bent, like in my case.

I looked into replacing them but your looking at $120 USD for the pair if you order them thru Kawasaki.

I know the risks of making them stronger might lead to other issues, but I'm not in the habit of dropping mine, so I'm willing to take that chance, as I'm sure other owners might be as well.

In the event of a crash, I'm gonna have a lot more damage to worry about besides the risers.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 01:31 PM   #13
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Well, I support your efforts to find an alternative, but yes... the bar should bend/break before anything else. Woodcraft and other companies have been doing this for a while now and have replacement bars for $10 MSRP or cheaper from other sources. I know you have a vibration issue you are working on as well, but how about a flexible, weighted insert into the hollow bar?

The first thing I would try is to put the heaviest chain that will fit in the hollow bars. Next I would take lead weight discs, drill a hole in the center of each and string them through the bar (latex dipped). Just some ideas so you can customize the weight and placement. Either end or in the center via small holes drilled in the hollow bar to hold in place.
I've toyed with the idea to fill the bars with melting some lead in the past, but this would only add weight, which I've already fixed with the extra heavy bar ends.

The weak point is the weld, which is located at the riser end, as seen in the photo below. Which is where the bending occurs.

I'm not looking to make the indestructible, like titanium, etc... Just a lower cost alternative to the OEM ones.

If Kawasaki sold the replacement for $10 or even $20 I personally wouldn't waste my time, but when your looking at $120 for the pair, and it will happen again if dropped, then I'm just looking to make them a little bit more durable, not indestructible.

If anyone has recommendations on which kind of material I should look into, I'll consider it, maybe Someone would prefer aluminum round bar? Steel? Hell I personally want stainless steel, but that's just my personal preference.

Keep those comments coming.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 01:44 PM   #14
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Filling the bar with a "flexible but heavy" material solves 2 problems at the same time while preserving the cost factor of hollow bars.

1. With connected discs it will bend like a spring bends filling the space between sections. In the event of a really bad bar bend/break, the sections can be cut and reconnected by the steel leader that connects them. This solves your vibration issue. And isn't subject to the next problem;

2. Bar ends are subject to scrape damage. Something internal to the bar would remove this issue as well as keep the bar the stock length so hand grip on the bars at very, very extreme angles is not compromised.

Foam tube shaped filling inserts at each end can be used to keep the weight in place. (cut to preferences) inside the bar.

Why not cut the bent stock bar out of the stock riser and drill it out for a new bar to be inserted. Use 2 barrel hex bolts to secure the bar in the riser.

Let's face it, the real problem is a new set of aftermarket clipons shouldn't be near 2 big faces for some circle clamps, a pipe and some bolts and then you still have to solve the vibration problem seperately. But it is what it is.... :\
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Old August 26th, 2016, 04:35 AM   #15
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I just put the bars in the vise, slide a pipe over them and straighten them, if they break (brake ) or crack I weld them up again and away I go.
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