Hopefully final issue!

[acook3323]

Alright I got an all clear from a machine shop on the cams got it timed and put back together. I have finally gotten the bike started but it only runs on full choke. When it's on choke it will get up to around 8000 RPM if I do it slowly. Air box is securely connected all hoses connected to where they are supposed to be. Any ideas?

[Z1R rider]

Most likely the passages under the pilot jets are blocked, here's a link to some carb info.
Scroll about half way down the page

http://n4mwd.blogspot.com/

[Ghostt]

Agreed, If your Bike needs the choke to run after start & warm your pilot jets are blocked

[acook3323]

Cleaned jets and passages any other thoughts?

[Z1R rider]

I thought I had the pilot jets clean too, even put the carbs in a sonic cleaner and no joy. Had to unscrew the pilot jet and worked a small piece of copper wire through the passage under the jet, along with carb cleaner spray. Third time was the charm! Amazing how much crud was in there.

[acook3323]

Okay got the passages clean and I can start it finally. Now I've noticed that if I let it dip to low rpm it will sit for a few seconds and die. Also if choke is on the rpm runs about 4000. In other reading I'm seeing possible carb syn is needed. Any other thoughts?

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by acook3323

Okay got the passages clean and I can start it finally. Now I've noticed that if I let it dip to low rpm it will sit for a few seconds and die. Also if choke is on the rpm runs about 4000. In other reading I'm seeing possible carb syn is needed. Any other thoughts?

Definitely sync the carbs, but also adjust the idle mixture screws.

2.5 turns out is usually close, but adjusting them to get the highest RPM, then turning out (richer) about 1/8 turn or until you hear the RPMs drop is more precise.

[acook3323]

Finally got it started with the mixture screw. Started to ride it and idles at 1500 rpms but shakes a lot. Also when starting to ride i shifted into second and i think i stalled it but it wouldn't start again

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by acook3323

Finally got it started with the mixture screw. Started to ride it and idles at 1500 rpms but shakes a lot. Also when starting to ride i shifted into second and i think i stalled it but it wouldn't start again

Can you post a video of what it's doing?

Are you sure the gas is good? Condensation in the tank or old gas can cause all sorts of problems that can't be corrected no matter what you do.

If there's any question that the gas is old or you have condensation in the tank you need to completely drain the tank and the floatbowls. Use regular gas without ethanol if it's available.

A quick check is to drain the floatbowls and look for water or contaminants.

This section has a lot of carb info - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake

This is how to drain the floatbowls - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Draining_the_carbs

[acook3323]

Got it running and rode it for the first time yesterday finally! Of course with this bike when you think you're done something else comes up. When I was riding it I got my rpms up to 8000 and let off and it got stuck around 6000. Checked the throttle cables and everything looks good. Thinking possibly that the vacuum valves are getting stuck. Has anyone had this happen?

[Z1R rider]

Even if the slides are hanging up the butterfly valves should slow it down. Most times I've had problems with the RPM's hanging it's because I've had to have the idle speed knob (under the carbs) turned in too far (and that holds the butterfly valves open too much). It should idle with the idle speed knob screwed out almost all the way, if not you have a vacuum leak or more likely the pilot jet or pilot passage is still blocked.

[acook3323]

Cleaned all of that really well. If I feather the throttle it will drop back to normal. Haven't been able to sync the carbs yet could that be the problem?

[Z1R rider]

Maybe, because if they're not in sync, one blade is open more than the other. Out of sync should be much more noticeable at small (or no) throttle openings as one cylinder is doing more of the work, once past ¼ throttle I doubt you'd notice unless they are way off. They don't seem to be near as picky as my old KZ-1000.

Maybe someone else can chime in with their experiences.

[Petrolh34d]

Any vacuum leaks? Those will do it

[acook3323]

Haven't noticed any. The only vacuum problem I've noticed is the spring on one of the valves is not straight.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by acook3323

Cleaned all of that really well. If I feather the throttle it will drop back to normal. Haven't been able to sync the carbs yet could that be the problem?

Sounds like the cable or the butterflies/slides are hanging-up.

Does the idle speed change when you turn the bars side to side? Maybe the cable routing is not correct or the cable is damaged.

I wouldn't ride until you have found the problem.

I don't think that the carbs being out of sync would cause it to hang at 6000 RPMs when you close the throttle.

[acook3323]

No the bars don't change anything. If I turn the throttle really quickly a few times it goes back down to normal

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by acook3323

No the bars don't change anything. If I turn the throttle really quickly a few times it goes back down to normal

That would suggest something is hanging-up. The cables may be dry. You could disconnect the cables at the carbs and see if the carbs snap back sharply when you open them (engine off) and let go.

Move the cable back and forth when you have it disconnected to see if you feel any resistance.

If both the cable and the carbs seem fine, I would think it could be an issue with the slides not returning properly. You may be able to reach in the carbs and lift the slides (engine off) and see if they drop back down smoothly.

Not being able to close the throttle when you need to is not safe at all, so try to get it all sorted out before riding it again.