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Old October 25th, 2017, 04:11 PM   #41
Triple Jim
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Some of you guys get worried too easily.
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Old October 25th, 2017, 05:02 PM   #42
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Instances of overheating, low oil-pressure and inadequate lubrication are still occurring with modern engines, as evidenced by this thread. Sure, it may be happening only a fraction of the frequency of earlier air-cooled engines, but no means completely eradicated.

In that regard, why would you want to run an inadequate oil that doesn't provide sufficient lubrication for your engine during the emergency times when you really need it? Sure, 99% of the time, the extra overhead won't be needed, but that 1% when it occurs will destroy your engine.

Also don't get cold-start viscosity and cold-start flow mixed up with warmed-up engine requirements. Why settle for "good enough" when "way, way better" is available?
Agreed JR. My 1959 Alfa Romeo had an 8 quart oil sump. Why? Because engine oil in the mid 50s was inferior by today's standards. Good God, we ain't talkin' 8 quarts here, were talkin' 1.5 to 1.9 quarts. For heaven sake buy the best, the little Kaw. engine works damn hard for a living.

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Old October 25th, 2017, 07:26 PM   #43
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Some of you guys get worried too easily.
heh, heh.... I've blown up quite few engines experimenting and pushing edge of envelope...
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Old October 25th, 2017, 07:39 PM   #44
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My point is that rod bearings in Ninja 250s fail because of things like the oil level getting very low, or the bike being left outside in the rain with the oil filler cap off (actually read that here), not because the oil was not synthetic. Heck, I've run my '72 H2 on dino oil since 1978 when I got it, and never had a seizure or internal failure of anything. With a 4 stroke, clean oil kept at the correct level and changed at the recommended interval, and filters that are changed at the recommended interval are way more important than type of oil.

Use what you prefer, and don't worry so much.
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Old October 25th, 2017, 07:50 PM   #45
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well, when you see oil-pressure dropping by 50% due to heat and RPMs, there IS difference between dino-oil and full-synthetic. It doesn't matter what oil-level is at that point. That's difference between having a couple of extra minutes to pull off and park bike, vs. having engine seize right there and then on road or track.

When you've got that level of overhead available, why not have that extra safety margin?
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Old October 25th, 2017, 08:47 PM   #46
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OK, obviously we're not going to post anything helpful here by continuing.
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Old October 25th, 2017, 08:47 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
My point is that rod bearings in Ninja 250s fail because of things like the oil level getting very low, or the bike being left outside in the rain with the oil filler cap off (actually read that here), not because the oil was not synthetic. Heck, I've run my '72 H2 on dino oil since 1978 when I got it, and never had a seizure or internal failure of anything. With a 4 stroke, clean oil kept at the correct level and changed at the recommended interval, and filters that are changed at the recommended interval are way more important than type of oil.

Use what you prefer, and don't worry so much.
That's the cool thing about your H2, you change the oil as you ride it. I used to use only Castrol 2 cycle oil in my H1. When you tore down the engine you could clean the piston crown and cylinder head with a paper towel and lacquer thinner.

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Old October 26th, 2017, 06:40 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
Instances of overheating, low oil-pressure and inadequate lubrication are still occurring with modern engines, as evidenced by this thread. Sure, it may be happening only a fraction of the frequency of earlier air-cooled engines, but no means completely eradicated.

In that regard, why would you want to run an inadequate oil that doesn't provide sufficient lubrication for your engine during the emergency times when you really need it? Sure, 99% of the time, the extra overhead won't be needed, but that 1% when it occurs will destroy your engine.

Also don't get cold-start viscosity and cold-start flow mixed up with warmed-up engine requirements. Why settle for "good enough" when "way, way better" is available?
That's only going to be true if there are problems or lack of proper maintenance. If everything is functioning properly overheating is not going to occur with a water-cooled engine no matter how hot the temps or how little of airflow there is.

I agree - use an oil that can handle an overheating situation if it ever occurs. It's not that much more expensive or hard to get.
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